SailinCat

Greetings V8 Miata experts! Let me apologize in advance if I seem wordy; I'm told I'm not good at brevity.

I recently become the somewhat proud, but mostly bewildered, owner of something resembling a Monster Miata. (Yet another harsh lesson in why I shouldn't spend my free time surfing Craig's List.)

I have questions. So many questions.

Let me start by asking what the heck have I got here? I'll tell/show you what I can see. I'm hoping you knowledgeable folks can help me fill in the considerable gaps.



How should I post my questions? All in a single thread to keep them together under: "Introductions" or "Ford V8 Discussion" or "Ford V8 Miata Build Threads"? Split up into threads by subtopic, but all under one of the above categories? Scattered around in various categories by subtopic? I admire how v8miata.net is organized into many specific topic categories, but I'm not sure where to start posting my broad and varied, but somewhat interrelated, questions without stepping on your conventions and traditions.

Thank you all for providing this valuable resource!

1999 Miata, Ford V8, 5-spd, Ford IRS diff, mystery build.

tbone heller

Probably posting under the Ford V8 Build Thread section should get you some answers. Unfortunately, this forum has not seen very much action in the last couple of years. The ones still on here seem quite knowledgeable and glad to assist others.

SailinCat

Re: Thanks for the suggestion. Tried that today. Clicked Submit (or whatever), didn't see any error messages, was whisked back to the Ford V8 Build Thread list. However, after several hours, still haven't seen my post appear, and my profile still only lists my first intro post, above.

tbone heller

You may have to have a minimum number of posts in this introduction section before it will let you in among the "Big Dogs" . LOL!!

SailinCat

Well, I hope they give me a longer leash soon. I tried again to start a new thread in Ford V8 Miata Build Threads, but only caught a flash of "awaiting moderator approval" before back to where I started.

Meanwhile, here are my most pressing questions:

• How to best mount the aluminum 3-core radiator to the car. When I got it, the radiator is attached by a fabricated steel shelf at the bottom, the two hoses, and a plastic zip-tie around the top hose. Seriously. I've searched, but haven't found a sufficiently clear, specific, and idiot proof description of how to do it right. I see generic custom radiator mounting kits online, so probably going to start there. "Speedway Motors Aluminum Radiator Mounting Bracket With Pads Kit" — $20 — [[url=https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aluminum-Radiator-Mounting-Bracket-With-Pads-Kit,379226.html]https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Alumi...it,379226.html]
  
  
• Which width, brand, model, etc. summer performance tires to get for 6-1/2x15 wheels. The car came with new 195/50ZR15 82W Primewell Valera Sport AS. One is damaged beyond repair, and I didn't like 'em anyway.
  
  
• How to best integrate the carb'd, non EMS Ford V8 with the stock Miata wiring harness, especially the instrument panel. Whoever wired the engine bay cut the Mazda harness off at the firewall, and wired the very basics for the engine from scratch. MSD ignition coil, one small radiator fan, and A/C compressor powered from dashboard toggle switches. Oil pressure 'gauge' comes up to mid-scale without engine running, tachometer reads about 2x high. Accuracy of speedometer, fuel gauge, and indicator lights unknown, although obviously the Check Engine Light has no idea what's going on under the hood. Key switch turns on ACC circuit and cranks starter. Giving alternator wiring benefit of the doubt for now. Qualified to figure out the electrics on my own if necessary. However, the benefit of others' experience could save lots of aggravation and head scratching.

Any suggestions and advice would be greatly appreciated!

engineer

Hi,

I will try and help out as best I can.

1) The radiator is best mounted by using mounting spigots or dowels on the top and bottom with rubber feet that slip over. I would suggest that you look at how the factory Miata radiator is mounted to get an idea on how this looks. You need to try and use the existing top radiator mounting brackets and holes (will likely need some modification) and you will need to make a U channel type of steel support member that is braced between the two frame rails of the chassis. In the middle of this U Channel you will need to drill the holes for the rubber feet to sit in. The weight is supported by the U channel and the top brackets simply hold it in place. Again reference a standard miata to see how its done and just copy that for your radiator.

2) I use Bridgestone Potenza tyres on my car but I have 17 inch wheels and there isnt anything available for a 15 inch wheel. Any big brand (Michelin, Pirelli, Bridgestone etc.) sports tyre should be Ok though. For a 6.5 inch wheel you can go for a 205 width.

3) For the wiring harness, the cluster is fairly stand alone. The oil pressure is likely working the wrong way round because it has the wrong sender. Its is likely a switch that goes open (no continuity) with the engine OFF. The Needle is suppose to go to 2/3 of the oil scale and stay there with the engine running..provided it has the correct oil pressure switch. It should be grounded with the engine off, this will keep it zeroed, once the engine starts the switch goes OPEN and then the oil pressure will show. It is a fake oil pressure gauge reading as its just sits there at 2/3rds of the gauge irrespective of actual oil pressure. The tachometer needs to have a proper interface assigned to it to work (same for Speedo). Please go to Dakota Digital and buy a universal Tachometer and a speedometer interface module. Once you wire them in the tacho and speedo will work perfectly. Also please get a bosch 3 wire digital speedo sensor for the T5 as its better than the 2 wire model which gives a choppy (sawtooth) signal type. Check engine light is no longer useful to you...remove the globe. For the A/C..you will need to put in a small solenoid that bypasses air past the throttle plates OR a solenoid that bumps the throttle lever on the carby ever so slightly when the air con is engaged to provide the idle up. The engine fan can be run easily of its own thermostat switch and relay circuit, you will need to wire this in if its not already there.

I find that wiring is an area that a lot of people do not so well and end up compromising the outcome with erratic electrics.

Good luck and let us know if you have more questions.

Cheers

5.0MX5

Welcome Aboard! Good to see this board is still getting a bit of action. If you could drive your car up on ramps or when you have it on a lift make a few images showing the rearend and how everything is mounted. Be sure to include attachment points as well as the front subframe and exhaust system as it exits the engine and heads back to the rear. With those images it's likely we can provide information on what you've got.

SailinCat

To the moderator, or whoever is blocking and deleting my posts.
Why?
What am I doing wrong?
What are the rules I'm violating here?
I'm not trying to be a trouble maker. Point out what I can do to avoid be blocked/ deleted, and I will do my best to comply.

5.0MX5

Never heard of threads being deleted before. I suppose those of questionable content would of course be blocked. Try reposting the information you were attempting to share and see what happens.

SailinCat

Surprised the heck out of me too. I get the impression that as a newcomer I'm only permitted to post in certain areas, such as here in introductions. But that one post was definitely up here, then gone. Other times 'awaiting moderator approval' message flashes by so fast, if I blink I miss it, leaving me wondering where my post went. Was unable to click into 'Advanced Mode' getting error message:
Then somehow ended up in 'Advanced Mode' while trying to recover from that. *shrug*

Anyway, here's an update of that previous post:

tbone heller, engineer, 5.0MX5, thank you all for your helpful responses and questions. After typing a rough draft offline, it looks a bit unwieldy as a single post. (That lack of brevity handicap I mentioned early on.) So I'm going to break it up a bit between topics.

• Suspension parts identified.
• Tires ordered.
• Radiator mounts and closely related issues.
• Cooling fans, controls, and related issues, such as engine accessory length.
• Engine instrumentation, maybe combined with electrics. "Dakota Digital SGI-100BT Universal Speedometer and Tachometer Interface" located, and will be ordered soon.
• Tidying up fuel system to 4-barrel carburetor. (EFI a distant dream for now.)
• Engine swap kit mystery.
  • Rear subframe identifying features.
  • Transmission cross member identifying features.
  • Front subframe identifying features.
• Misc. puzzling details as they arise.

I'll try to keep photos small and cropped on point without losing relevant context. I usually have much larger, higher resolution images available if needed.

Suspension kit parts identified:
"V8R" CNC engraved in lower rear control arms, coil-overs look exactly like a set on V8Roadsters.com.

Tires:
On my stock Miata, I enjoyed a set of Yokohama S.Drive 205/50R15-86V while they lasted. So, four Yokohama Advan Fleva V701 205/50R15-86V on order for the 4-cylinder car. If I like them, I may order a 2nd set for the V8 car. I also have a stack of partially used 15" sport tires I plan to finish off on the back wheels of this thing to celebrate when I finally get it on the road and drivable.

Radiator mount and related issues:
Yes, I'd rather copy what works, and not reinvent things unnecessarily. Unfortunately, I don't have the stock pieces. Although I never throw anything away myself, I didn't start this build, don't know who did, or what became of any take-off parts. Also, the aluminum radiator has no built in provision for mounting, other than horizontal aluminum channels welded between the vertical tanks, protecting the edges of the core. I understand, and agree with, your idea of fabricating metal U-channels to fit over those welded in aluminum ones, and attaching those larger channels to the car. I have a do-it-yourself generic custom radiator mount kit on order which includes some promising looking sheet padding.

The car came with fabricated steel bottom shelf attached to vertical steel either side, which is then attached to the car.

The bent piece closest to the radiator is the steel shelf.


The four items above are the radiator retaining clips it came with. (They don't fit.) What looks like padding is I, think, self-amalgamating tape backed up with nylon zip-ties. (The car is held together with a surprising number of zip-ties.)

Local hardware store has, or can get, a variety of hobby sized extruded aluminum stock. Without my own aluminum welding rig, I'm thinking about 2" (50 mm) x 1/8" (3.12 mm) aluminum angle forming a 4" x 2" (100 mm x 50 mm) channel, joined at the seam with 1/8" flat stock attached by stainless steel (SS) countersunk flat head machine screws and nylon locking nuts (maybe add epoxy or polyurethane adhesive later to help keep salt from accumulating between the aluminum pieces). Then attaching that bottom channel at bottom of existing vertical side mounts, and lining it with padding to absorb vibration and distribute weight. If that all works out, I may do something similar across the top of the radiator, attached fwd to same original cross bar which stock radiator was braced to.
Radiator mounts will need to be integrated with A/C condenser mounting, electric fans, air flow shrouding, etc.

1985 Mustang lower radiator hose with internal anti-collapse spring on order.

This is getting long, so I'll break it here.

Next topic: Cooling fans, controls, and related issues, such as belt driven engine front accessory length.

Thank you all for your thoughts and advice!