wallyman

10th January 2011 11:42
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Just faxed over the quote for the yard to see.. almost $1500 using GM parts (you have to replace with a bare head and swap parts over, valve guides not available from GM - how nice) and labor. If they pay, looks like I can move forward again. The motor is on hold until this is resolved, that's for sure. And I won't be ordering anything until AFTER they pay up. Last time took over 2 weeks for them to reemburse me.

I totally agree, had it been another month, I would have been totally screwed. So very glad I was doing the cam swap, otherwise I never would have known.

wallyman

10th January 2011 13:49
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Build Update:

Parts Ordered
Fuel System [Ordered up the fuel system fittings based on that sketch above. If not perfect, will be very close to get me going on the plumbing for that when the time comes.]
Header bolts - Stage 8 locking
Exhuast manifold gaskets
ARP cam gear bolts (lame, I know)
Miata heater core firewall grommets
Miata AC core firewall grommet [only one available, going to have to modify one of the heater core ones to fit the other]
Wiring grommets [2 inch as posted earlier] for the Miata and LS2 harnesses

Parts Arrived - Frame braces (for the engine bay where it is cut) and the brake proportioning valve arrived. Only waiting on FM Stage 2 fan kit, tranny inspection cover, and custom coil covers.. everything else from the initial order has arrived!

wallyman

10th January 2011 20:58
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Well, the official resolution from the yard is this. They are going to purchase the following parts, and ship them to me:

(1) intake valve
(1) exhaust valve
(2) pushrods
(2) lifters
(2) springs
(1) set of head bolts (5 small, 10 large)
(1) head gasket
(1) set of intake valve seals
(1) set of exhaust valve seals
(1) bare 243 casting head

Valve guides are not available from GM, so a bare 243 casting comes with valve guides and seats. My quote to them for the stock parts from Berger locally was $1350, he quoted their price at $640ish so they are providing. Also, they are going to refund the quoted labor costs of $150 to have the old head stripped and the new head built. Soooo.. by the end of this week, I should have all the parts and my refund, but "check's in the mail".

Interestingly, I stumbled across 12564824 which is a BUILT LS6 head, with sodium filled exhaust valves.. and it's cheaper??? I need to check with the yard and see if they actually ordered the bare head, if not..
So like a sideway "F"? The input of the rail would be at the back corner pointing parallel to the firewall.. right?

Wally

wallyman

12th January 2011 09:43
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Build Update:

Parts Arrival - JEGS order came in (with free hat, woot!).. clockwise from middle left:



Stage8 Locking header bolts
3/8" NPT plug for fuel rail
ARP cam sproket bolts
(3) firewall grommets
Header gasket

The Firewall grommets previously purchased are 2" OUTER diameter of the mount ring, actual inner rubber is 1.25" max for the cable bundle. Still usable for my purposes (at least two of the three) but man they are tiny in person. Going to use these to route factory wiring into fender for a body wire tuck. If the bundle is small enough, may use it for the LS2 harness into the interior.

wallyman

13th January 2011 08:05
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From here: NOPRO (Suzuki) washer fluid bottle relocation kit + wiper cowl cover write-up/picts - MX-5 Miata Forum

Pricey tho, like $100... I am all for slick, but damn. I haven't had washer fluid in 7 years, and yes, that is a PITA some days, but 95% of the time it is a non-issue. Still have to think about this one.

wallyman

16th January 2011 20:27
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Ken, not a bad idea! This one?

MossMiata.com - Parts & Accessories for Your Mazda Miata

What sort of hard plastic, like on the water injection system the car had?

wallyman

17th January 2011 00:31
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Build Update:

Parts Arrival - All the fuel line fittings arrived.. clockwise from upper left:

15' -6AN hose
(2) -6AN 90* elbows
(1) -6AN "T"
(6) -6AN push-on fittings
(1) -6AN to 3/8" GM hardline adapter



Some other misc. parts, clockwise from upper-left:

2 tubes of seam sealer, Duraglass, Mazda AC core grommet (one the small one was available), 3 Mazda Heater Core grommets (bought a third to try and use for the big AC line).



Parts Bought - Bought some more goodies:

Rubber Grommets - Bought a crapload to try and fill all the holes in the engine bay... $67 worth. (yeah, seriously). Bought it at a place called Eastern Beaver (Grommets) run by a nice guy named Jim. It's actually a motorcycle accessory site, but he has some nice grommets, plus some interesting options for sealed electrical connectors. The site is a bit clunky, but prices are good. Had a hell of a time finding a good place to buy grommets, and this is by far the best I came across. Sold as single units in various sizes. I whipped up a nice cheat sheet of the accurate sizes via AutoCAD, I'l try and post it up for reference.

Start Button - A Real, live, Honda S2000 version (JDM, yo!)... [yes, I am totally a ricer at heart!]. Great write-up at revlimiter.net on the wiring and parts needed to do it right.

Hella FF75 Driving Lights - Accidentally bought a single lamp (ebay, oops!) and worked out a return/exchange option with Summit Racing (the seller).. so a full kit is on the way as soon as the return is processed.

Parts Researched - Spent a bunch of free time searching for a few things...

Wiper Cowl Cover - Probably going with a Techno Toy Tuning version.
Radiator Cowl Cover - Not sure which to get, probably going to wait until the radiator is installed.
Radiator Overflow Bottle - Canton is out due to fit (and price), Moroso is out due to price, considering the WeaponR or OBX universal round one.
Washer Fluid Bottle - Considering the NOPRO version (which is really the Suzuki Cappuccino part), pricing is a bit steep at over $75 but what can you do... import part. Found a dealer in England at $75 shipped for just the bottle, or NOPRO in Japan at $76 plus shipping for the whole kit. Other options are something universal and ugly, or a stock ABS car one that moves it to the driver's shock tower, or none at all. Still working through this one.
Shift **** - Found a nice one on eBay but waiting for a relisting. 2" black with engraved pattern.
Leather Shift Boot - Also ebay, fairly cheap at under $20 shipped too..
Electrical Connectors - Delphi parts via Mouser, not sure what I need yet so just slimming down the options. GT 280 series parts (same as I used on the RX7 with much success).
Replacement leather elbow pad - to replace my worn one for the center console.
Strut Tower Brace - looking at 3 point version, but not sure. Might be able to reuse the Flyin Miata one I have. Going to wait and see.
Hood Lifts - Confirmed with Mr. Simpson my cowl hood should be fine with the dual lift style, may order one up. My hood prop was on the strut tower bar which may not work now. Plus I like the idea of the lifts being out f the way.
Chin Splitter - I tend to hit things.. many things. Splitter would help mitigate damage. So looking at the Track Dog one made for the RB Type II nose I have. Plus, it might help with actual downforce and air flow for cooling.

Will be back doing work on things this week as schedule allows... replacement engine parts shipped (reportedly) last week, I expect them tomorrow.

wallyman

18th January 2011 23:30
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Build Update:

Parts Received - Well, lookie here... the yard sent some replacement parts for what was damaged on the pullout, all brand-spanking new GM stuff:
• Exhaust valve
• Intake valve
• Pair of pushrods
• Head Gasket
• 243 head with guides and seats
• Head bolts
• Pair of lifters
• Pair of Springs
• Valve Seals



I'll be dropping that stuff off at my machinist to get things straightened around. Still waiting on the paypal refund of the labor for that work, though.

Parts Ordered - Bought some more stuff:
• Techno Toys Wiper Cowl cover, wrinkly black powdercoat
• Black leather shift boot with black stitching
• Speed, Inc. black 2" shift **** with engraved shift pattern
• Track Dog Racing Air Splitter for Racing Beat Type II nose
• ZZP 9mm plug wires, red (yeah, ricer, I admit)

Parts Shipped - The last of the Flyin Miata stuff shipped today, woot! Stage 2 fan kit and the flywheel cover plate, arrival 1/24. Summit shipped my Hella FF75 Driving Light kit, arrival 1/19.

Engine Wiring - Started a thread to discuss a few oddball things on the GTO wiring, located here:

2006 GTO LS2 ECM wiring questions - what are these things? - LS1TECH

Trying to identify the few loose ends on the GTO side so I can start planning my interconnects with the Miata.

wallyman

20th January 2011 00:14
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Build Update:

Parts Ordered - Forgot that the car needed a new top, so ordered that up as well.. Robbins Vinyl zippered plastic window. Free shipping sale going on at GoMiata thru the end of January, saves me $50.

Parts Received - Honda S2000 start button arrived, as did the Hella FF75 driving lights.

Looks like the vast majority of parts will be coming in next week, around the 23th-25th. Stuff coming in from Japan, England, California, Georgia, Colorado... fun fun.

Hoping to hit the project hard ths weekend, been slacking off due to a bathroom remodel that I am having done, chasing all the loose ends for that takes time as does researching all the oddball parts of the swap that are still unresolved (coolant bottle, washer bottle, GTO wiring questions, gauge sender locations, hood lift parts... the list seems endless). Hope to get a lot more parts cleaned and painted, as well as the rear end welded up and partially/mostly/totally assembled. Still looking for some valve guides, going to try and repair my old head if possible (if you have a lead on correct valve guides for a 243 head, please PM me!). If I can't find them soon, going to just move everything over to the new head and be done with it. Time is a wastin'.

wallyman

22nd January 2011 12:00
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Build Update:

Parts Received - Parts came in! Clockwise:
• Replacement black Pleather for the armrest (didn't have real leather at my local store, oh well)
• Hella FF75 Driving Light kit
• Techno Toys Wiper Cowl cover, wrinkly black powdercoat
• Speed, Inc. black 2" shift **** with engraved shift pattern
• Honda S2000 Engine Start Button
• ZZP 9mm plug wires, red





Everything looks good, very excited about some of these bits.

wallyman

22nd January 2011 12:05
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Rear Subframe - Took a break from sucking fumes from my tub re-glazer guy to suck fumes from a grinder and welder and spray paint.

So, following the directions from Shandelle at V8Roadsters (Thanks, Shandelle!) I welded up the front mount for the Getrag. Blue is Shandelle's instructions, black are my comments.

Here is the way I set up the rear end.

1. Install the diff on the rear hanger and bolt it into the subframe.



2. Level the subframe on a work bench. Uses shims under the four corners of the subframe to raise and level it. There are four flat points [on the top] of the subframe. Place an angle finder those post and zero the subframe. Then check level from side to side. (note spacers under the level. I found 2 pair of washers that were the same height [measured via digital micrometer] which allowed the lever to clear the re-inforced 'spike' hole. I put them front rear and left/right to check all angles.)






3. Bolt on the front mounts. You may need to clearance the front plate around the case depending on what year diff you are using. The late model units added material around the bushing boss. (Rear plate sitting on top of front plate (i.e. you are looking forward from rear of car) This is how much I had to trim on my plates to work with the Getrag I bought. Bench grinder and test fitting until the plate would lay in the right place without binding)



4. Lightly tighten a C-clamp around the subframe to hold the plates in place.

5. Use a pry bar to locate the DS flange 1.5-2 degrees up and tighten the clamp. Do this by placing the amgle finder on the flange. The clamp will bend the plates in against the subframe. (NOTE!! The stock Getrag bushing in shorter in length than the Poly upgrade that V8R sells. If you are using the poly, make sure to set up the plates using it! I welded the front plate with the stock bushing and tacked the ends of the rear plate, then put the poly center spacer in place to locate the rear plate and then fully welded it. With the stock bushing the rear plate angles inward towards the front plate. With the poly, they are basically parallel as shown.)

6. Check the angle one more time and them tack the plates in place. I solid weld the outside and stitch the inner. I have a piece of material cut that I bolt back inside the brackets to keep them properly spaced. That "piece of material" mentioned is basically a spacer to maintain the gap, I used the center sleeve from the poly mount. (poly mount was not installed in the diffy yet, but given the sleeve is separate, you could probably slide it back out for this purpose)

wallyman

22nd January 2011 12:09
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(note - I fully welded them to keep crap from collecting in the gap instead of tacking the insides. I doubt it makes any different but whatever)

wallyman

22nd January 2011 12:20
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Painted Parts - Painted the Brake Booster, Wiper Motor and bracket, silver part of the steering rack, and the mount brackets for the rack/front sway/rear sway.

wallyman

23rd January 2011 00:31
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Build Update:

Rear Subframe - Bought some 10" long 3/8" bolts to use as surrogate exhaust hangers. Tagged one on the subframe in the NB location (or thereabouts, anyhow) and left it stubbed so I can bend/trim it to fit once the car is assembled. Will paint it to match at that time.



Painted the subframe till I ran out of paint. Partial first coat:

wallyman

23rd January 2011 00:32
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Rear Knuckles Disassembled - did a bunch of work:



Pressed out the old hubs, which leaves you with this:



Pried out the inner seal, and inner bearing race:





Pried out the outer seal and outer bearing race:



Clean it up with a rag and brake clean and you have this:

wallyman

23rd January 2011 00:33
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Break out some heat (gotta love oxy/act) and beat on the outer ring at the ridge shown here:



After you are done with both hubs, you have this giant pile of parts:



Clockwise from upper let, you have two rows of the bearing, disassembled, from out to in:

Snap ring
Outer Ring
Exterior Seal
Exterior Bearing Race
Interior Bearing Race
Interior Seal
Inner Interior ring
Dust Seal
Wheel hub with outer Interior ring, and the knuckle.

Rear Knuckles Assembled - Pressed in the wheel studs:





(yes, there is a 3rd bearing box in that photo.. I screwed up and thrashed one.. oops!)

Painted Parts - Painted some stuff.. clear coated the steering rack and wiper motor parts. Touched up the brake booster (had some fisheye issues), painted the front knuckle brake shields with "chrome" paint in the hopes that it will help with heat deflection (and it looks cool), and primed the front baby teeth.



I've been researching some other bling stuff tonight, but that's a surprise.

wallyman

23rd January 2011 10:48
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Uprights = rear knuckle?

Honestly, I'm happy with my *** being the width it is. I may not be once the V8 is in the car, but good to know regardless. I assume that means they are set back into the car an extra 5mm?

wallyman

23rd January 2011 19:00
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Build Update:

Rear Subframe & Baby Teeth - Finished first coat of paint on it.

Suspension - Started to swap out springs from 350/275 to 450/333...



...until one of the GC coilover collars had a siezed tension bolt... So, cut it and moved on.



Found some other wear-n-tear issues had to weld up some stuff. Unfortunately one of the front struts has buggered threads, so taking both fronts to get that fixed up tomorrow. Probably going to take all the LS2 parts as well, need to find a machinist that can deal with the valve guides.

Painted Parts - Finished up the steering rack, brake booster and reassembled the wiper motor. All came out nicely.





You can really tell when I have been out in the garage all day.. I think I could use some insulation on the roof!!

wallyman

23rd January 2011 20:24
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Total rattlecan.. Black Rustoleum Appliance paint (2nd and 4th from left), Rustoleum 'Painters Touch" Aluminum Silver and Gloss Clear (farthest back towards left side). Same way I did the RX7, loved how it turned out there so why not again?

wallyman

23rd January 2011 21:12
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Parts Bought - Bought more of the $50 to death items... 2 gallons of antifreeze ($7 rebate each, tho!) and a 5 qt. w/filter oil change special.. total $61.45. Still need at least 2 more quarts of oil, though!!

wallyman

24th January 2011 11:07
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We've got a bit, but I suspect I'll have the RX7 convertible on the road in March like normal... it melts sooner than you think most years.

Thanks, the build is moving slowly..but it is moving. The bathroom remodel at the house seems to be slowing progress (I took Friday off to rest and heal my 5 week head cold and I spent most of the day chasing plumbing parts :realmad: ), thankfully that will be done this week! Heading to a machine shop at lunch to drop of the parts to get the head fixed.

wallyman

24th January 2011 11:41
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Parts Received - Final shipment from Flyin Miata. Stage 2 fan kit and flywheel cover plate. Forgot they were shipping to the office.. Happy Monday!

wallyman

24th January 2011 21:31
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Build Update:

Parts Arrival - Couple of boxes arrived:

Flyin Miata Stage 2 Fan kit
Flyin Miata flywheel cover plate



Eastern Beaver rubber plugs and tie-straps. Look good.

wallyman

24th January 2011 21:32
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Track Dog Racing front air splitter.





The splitter box had a fun label on it, I think I need the same thing on my forehead.



Flyin Miata stuff looks great as always.. except a very odd finish technique on the fan shround?? I think I would describe it as "crazy man with a bad wire wheel" finish.



Very rough texture, not really liking it honestly.. looks like.. well, a crazy man attacked it with a bad wire wheel. Sooo... dunno. Need to inquire if that is the normal finish, because I gotta say: not a fan (pun intended). I guess I'll be sanding and painting it?



Engine Repair - Dropped off the bad head and the new parts at a machine shop today, should have it back Wed or so. Look forward to putting the engine back together.

wallyman

24th January 2011 22:10
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Nah, I am sure it's a drunk crazy guy with a bad wire wheel.

But why do the entire outer surface? It looks like hell. And I've cleaned up my fair share of metal, you can do it without trashing the entire surface. Still not a fan. Nothing a little sanding and paint won't cure.
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Cool, thanks Geoff.

Silver paint to match the other aluminum stuff.. same as the steering rack photos from the other day. Unfortunately the rubber flaps are going to make it tough to make it look good. I can't seem to get them to come off without getting gnarly on it. Might ask FM for a couple of replacement flaps so I can pull them and paint it correctly... we'll see.
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I dunno, Steve.. it feels ilke it would collect all kinds of grit and dirt. I'm not liking it. Plus it's just not a look I like, the very first thought I had was "they fooked the surface up and did this to hide it". I don't like that implication, right or not. If I thought it, I am sure others will too. Bugs me.

Driving around with yellow duct tape on your car for 2 years was different, too, but I ain't doing that anymore either.