wallyman

3rd January 2011 23:17
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Build Update:

Parts Bought - Picked up a set of custom fuel rail covers... hope they fit under the hood. See here (or ebay): stainless coil covers. with stainless and aluminum hardware. $65 shipped per set Color to be determined, probably color painted to match engine but I'll figure that out later.

Parts Received - POR-15 engine kit, caliper kit and exhaust paint all arrived.. as did the fuel filter. Woot!

wallyman

4th January 2011 09:03
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Build Update:

Parts Bought - Forgot, bought the brake proportioning valve yesterday from FM too.

wallyman

5th January 2011 00:34
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Build Update:

Parts Arrival - Fuel rail arrived, as did the remote oil filter adapter, oil hose and clutch bleed line mounting tabs.

Suspension Painting - Touched up the paint on the 8 control arms, don't look too bad. Going to be under the car, so not too worried about it.

Dual Feed Fuel Rail Research - Trying to figure out the best way to make a dual feed out of the fuel rail, to eliminate the crossover line at the front. Using AN gets bloody expensive, so need to figure out how to pull it off with nylon or rubber.

Cold Air intake Research - Started to piece together what I am going to need on the CAI, looks like everyone converts to 3.5" tubing, so that's the route I'll likely take. Going to try and emulate the Swaptastic-style setup putting the filter in front of the driver's front tire.

Camshaft Research - Ron @ Vengeance recommends either the VRX3 if I want a less choppy idle or the VRX5 if I want much more chop.. the 5 will give up some lower power to gain it top end but the 1.5" primaries work opposite and should balance that out to some degree. The VRX4 falls in the middle, but with reportedly less chop than the VRX3 (strange but that is what Ron said and any youtube video I find seems to support that to some degree). The goal has always been 400 rwhp, and I am not convinced the 3 will get me there, so it's either 4 or 5. I do want a lope at idle, so I am leaning towards the 5 which is much like the cam in my RX7 so from that perspective it really isn't different from what I am used to. I'll finalize it with them tomorrow morning. Ron also said that the 5 may be better for a lighter car since it will give up a little low end making the car easier to launch at throttle. Makes logical sense, I suppose. Will be doing hardened pushrods (stock length) and a dual spring of some sort, considering the Comp 926's. $200 over the TEA but I think that's $200 worth of peice of mind. Looks like almost $1300 with programming (ugh). Gotta pay to play, I guess.

wallyman

5th January 2011 10:42
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Build Update:

Parts Ordered - Ordered some stuff from Vengeance:

VRX4 Camshaft
Comp 26926 Dual Spring Kit Complete with Tool Steel Hardware
Comp 5/16 7.400 Hardened Pushrods
GM Front Cover Seal
GM Front Cover Gasket
GM Valve Cover Gaskets
GM Crank Bolt for LS Engine
Mail Order Base Burn

$1272 with shipping.

Decided to go with the VRX4 after talking with Ron and listening to a lot of youtube videos of idles and dynos. I should be able to hit my 400rwhp goal, and I think the idle will have enough lope to make me happy but not so much that it wants to stall or die at stoplights (or just sound like it wants to). I opted for the "go safe" vs. "go ***** out" in the selection figuring I am more likely to ba happy with a strong runner that makes less hp than something a little too hairy that is too lumpy and too peaky. Cam specs:

228 230 .588 .592 112LSA

wallyman

5th January 2011 10:46
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Some more parts photos.... (eventually you'll see pictures of this crap actually INSTALLED on the car, promise!!)

The POR-15 shipment arrived:


Caliper Paint Kit:


Engine Paint Kit and high Temp Exhaust paint:


Professional Products Fuel Rail Kit:


Remote Oil Filter block, 14' of hose (Neoprene) and clutch bleed line mounting tabs:

wallyman

5th January 2011 15:33
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7.4's recommended by Vengeance.. going to defer to their judgement on that one. Good call, tho. (I specifically asked and they confirmed 7.4 was 'spot on')

wallyman

7th January 2011 20:52
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Ummm.. yeah, you aren't allowed to help pick paint colors at your house, are you? Interestingly, Rustoleum 7747 (called, I kid you not, "SUNBURST YELLOW") matches very nicely so I could do it, but.. come on, Steve, that's just not me!! *cough* ricer *cough* They came out nice in Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy Gloss Black, dontcha think?







I think you should blame the vehicle, not the paint in that case, A PT cruiser needs more than POR15 to be anything BUT disappointing! :P Seriously, I hope so too, my last motor was done with a POR15 knockoff (KBS Coatings) and I was VERY unhappy to the point of returning the remainder for refund.
You and me both.. I think there may be a "First Fire" party sometime in your future, we'll get the boys together for that one. I may have to do the inaugural "open header flyby" of my Harley neighbors like last time, just to remind them what real loud pipes are.

wallyman

7th January 2011 20:58
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Parts Arrival - More goodies came..

Oil Pan Gasket, repalcement coil, rear diffy bolts and Lokar dipstick:



Vengeance VRX4 Cam, Comp Cams 5/16" hardened pushrods, front cover gasket, and front cover seal:

wallyman

7th January 2011 21:00
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Build Problem!

Trying to build the rear end, but not sure where my 0.0 degree reference point is.. anyone that has some knowledge for me, please post up. Thanks!!

Setting rear angle on V8R Getrag setup - where to measure 'level'?? - MX-5 Miata Forum

wallyman

8th January 2011 18:03
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Apparently I bought an LS1.875

WHAT THE FAAAAAAAAACK.





More to come.

wallyman

8th January 2011 23:21
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Build Update (pre-bent **** discovery):

Parts Arrival - Comp springs and crank pulley arrived.

Steering Rack & Rear Subframe Brace - Primed and first coat painted.

Oil Pan - Pulled the stock oil pan, photos in case you haven't seen the inside of one:





Uncut windage tray:



Removed windage tray - pretty clean 13k miles:



Took the cover out of the V8R pan to clean it out, some better shots of the baffle system:

wallyman

8th January 2011 23:24
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Cut windage tray to mate up with the V8R pan:

wallyman

8th January 2011 23:35
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And now, bent parts...

So, opened up the valve covers to pull springs for the cam swap, buddy was over helping me out. I pull all the rockers without paying any attention to the valves/springs. While I am finishing up pulling the last ones, he pulls out a pushrod:



What the hell.. then we notice:



Holy sheeeeet. Then we look in the exhaust port...





That thing is ****ed. So much for "just a cam/spring/pushrod swap". The intake and heads come off tomorrow, and we'll see how much damage is in there. The valve stem is clean, so it wasn't run long that way.. and the piston looks (from the spark plug hole) to not be totally thrashed, but we shall see.

The motor has a 90 day parts warranty, but I tell you what, I'm expecting parts AND labor or a replacement head. I haven't run this thing, and it's totally boned! I'm going to document my case of all the damage, and put together the parts list I see needing repalcement and send it over to the yard, who I'll be calling at opening time Monday. They stood behind the last issue (although it took months to resolve) so hopefully they stand behind the sale on this too, but this is total BULLSHIT. Instead of painting parts tomorrow, I'm tearing things down that I never intended to touch.

I am soooooooooooooooooooo glad I did the cam swap and found this damage, I would have been totally screwed if I didn't and I tried to run it 3 months from now.

TAKE NOTE, FELLOW SWAPPERS! Pull the valve covers and check things out even if it is a super low mile motor!!!!! 13k miles, and yet this motor is screwed..

So, assuming the piston and clyinder walls are visually fine, here is what I (so far) see as additional parts needed to fix this:

(1) exhuast valve with seal
(2) Head gaskets (both heads are coming off, I don't trust the motor now)
(1) intake gasket

Should I also replace the lifter? Any other parts I am going to need? I already had everything for a cam swap, including new hardened pushrods, so I am set there (but you can be certain the yard will be ponying up payment for the one bent one, dammit!). Any other things I need to put on the list?

Very discouraging...

wallyman

8th January 2011 23:39
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That's sorta what I thought.
Does that count as a one-angle valve job?
I don't feel at all comfortable with this motor now.. what sort of mayhem had to have happened to have that level of valve/piston impact?!? Thankfully there were no metal chunks or shavings in the oil pan, so that helps a little.. but not much.

wallyman

9th January 2011 11:55
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The motor comes apart.

A fair bit of dirt inder the intake:





Packed the intake ports, and cleaned all the dirt off:



Pulled the head:



Definitely had PTV unhappiness:

wallyman

9th January 2011 11:56
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Valve doesn't look all beat up, surprisingly.. and it's all there:



The 'high-flow valve gap':



Observations:

Can still see honing on all cylinders.
#7 Exhaust valve is wet with oil.
#7 Piston is much blacker than the other 3 on that bank.
#7 Piston is the only one with flaking up carbon.
All the other cylinders have a carbon ring in the bore at the top of the stroke

wallyman

9th January 2011 12:18
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Uh-huh.. BUSTED.

The passenger valve cover has NEVER SEEN OIL.

It's perfectly clean, not stained from oil AT ALL. It was replaced prior to the motor shipping, without question. Just great. They KNEW it was ****ed.. son of a BIIIIIIITTTTCCCCCHHHHHHH. I wondered why that valve cover was so damned clean on the outside.







(Thanks to Silver87 @ norotors.com for pointing out to check the cover!!! http://www.norotors.com/index.php?to...60748#msg60748)

It's allll starting to make sense. That coil was busted upon arrival, also. I attributed this to shipping damage since the valve cover was fine.



And without a huge amount of damage to the piston, I bet the damage was external, i.e. physical impact to that corner of the motor. They replaced the valve cover because it was smashed, but missed the coil and the valve.

wallyman

9th January 2011 14:19
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Looks like #7 intake is bent as well. Weee.. NOT.

Here's my theory:

Car was driving, so motor turning
Severe accident (was told front and rear damage).
During accident, something hit the rear of the drivers side valve cover.
-Coil is hit and broken.
-Cover is broken (I found unidentified pieces of aluminum on the motor when I received it)
-#7 exhaust valve is hit while it is closed, bending the stem
-#7 intake valve is hit and also bends the stem
Motor is running (or spinning at least since a 6 speed) and the rocker tries to open #7 exhaust.
Rocker pushes on the hat instead of the stem
Valve opens about half way, wedging itself in the valve seal, binding up
Pushrod gives way and bends
...and there we sit.

The yard replaced the valve cover, cleaned up 99% of the broken pieces, and sells it to me. Looking at the ebay photo, I can't see any damage but the angle is weak, funny, eh?



Sooooo.... I'll update the thread once I speak to them tomorrow first thing. I'm hoping they are stand up, so keeping the fingers crossed.

wallyman

9th January 2011 14:32
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The intake valve is bent, too:

wallyman

9th January 2011 14:57
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Today's Swap Noob Advice: No matter how insignificant, anything that makes you say "that's odd" means something and you need to investigate it fully. Pieces of metal on top of the engine? Suspicious. A brand new part? Suspicious. A damaged part on top of a brand new part? Very suspicious. Make sure to fully and completely inspect your pullout when you receive it. Take photos, LOTS of them. It will only help you later.

wallyman

9th January 2011 15:06
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I'd love a carfax of the motor... If someone wants to help me out, the VIN is 6G2VX12U26L827813. PM me if you can run a report for me. Thanks!

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Considered that, but valve stem is nice and clean (meaning wasn't run that way for any length of time).. I reject your poo throwing.

I would tend to agree.

wallyman

9th January 2011 18:47
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Since I'm stuck on the rear and engine temporarily, moving on to other stuff...

Build Update:

LS2 Motor - Boxed up the driver's head, all rockers and pushrods to take to my engine builder tomorrow for repair estimate.

Steering Rack - Second coat of black done, once that has cured a couple of days I'll spray the gearbox with silver and clear.



Rear Subframe Brace - Second (and final) coat of black is on, looks good!



Miata Wiring - Laid out the Miata engine and dash harness and tagged most of the connectors, identifying "keep" vs. "cut".

wallyman

9th January 2011 18:56
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Heater Core - Looks good for a heater core inlet/outlet relocate to the passenger side. Plenty of room between it and the firewall, same at the AC and the blower. Need to figure out where to come out, I am almost thinking outboard of the AC connections. Inboard and you are into the engine. Will be tricky since the washer fluid bottle is there (tho my car hasn't had windshield washers in 8 years, so maybe I ought to ditch that??)

A little leaky (I had a smell towards the end of '09):


Underwater? This Car? Nahh.....


Plenty of room between the core and the firewall:




May route out in that open spot between AC and blower:


But that puts it into the washer fluid bottle (I would like a working washer system if possible).


Plus I need to keep in mind where the LS2 PCM is going to mount, which is likely in that area behind the AC. More playing around is required, but I am confident I can find a location that works and gets the heater hoses to the passenger side of the engine.

Calling it for tonight..

wallyman

9th January 2011 22:43
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Research Update:

Fuel Lines - Since I went with the Professional Product fuel rail, my plan to use stock GM nylon tubing and fittings are out. Sooo, I want a true dual feed setup, here's my thoughts (ENTER - MS Paint!):



Thoughts?

(and yes, I know I mistyped Edelbrock but I ain't fixing it!)

wallyman

10th January 2011 00:32
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Doesn't seem like there is enough space to pull that off back there.. or are you thinking it would be left rail 90s to the right, right rail has a T that is left/right with the right being output pointing towards the fender?

I am going for stealthy/tucked and in the case of the fuel line routed away from the exhaust as well. Seems like a pair of 90s allows me the ability to put the T anywhere I want, which then allows me to route the fuel line up and away from the exhaust easier. I considered straight AN fittings out of the rails, but suspect firewall interference with that setup.

I have not been able to find good photos showing the amount of clearance/space back there on a swapped car.