stng_96

I've got one of them too, hopefully I'll get my engine off of it for the last time in the next week or so

SupaDupaSteve

Here we go, made some good progress last night and today. I'll do my best to explain everything I experienced.

Last night I removed the stock from subframe assembly and put the front of the car on jackstands. Then I moved inside the garage and started to assemble the engine/subframe assembly. After several attempts I figured the correct and from what I believe to be the only correct order to install everything together with my combo of parts.

The parts I'm using are
LM7 engine (mock up only while my engine is still waiting on heads)
V8R long tube headers
V8R subframe kit
T56 bellhousing Purchased from Summit racing
AC Delco starter #337-1119 or GM #88878289 This was purchased for a 2007 Suburban 1500 5.3L It's 6.5" long and clears the long tube headers. The only difference between this and a C6 Corvette starter is the number of teeth on the pinion. One is 9 and the other is 11. I can't remember which one is which right now. But unless you're running a super high compression engine I feel like this will be fine. The cost difference between this and the C6 Vette starter is significant. This was $137 on Amazon, and the C6 was like $270 with a $50 core because it was re-manufactured. Not to mention this one is 100% new, and is made in Mexico, not China. This starter uses 2 long bolts. part #11610787

Here are some pictures of starter clearance. (I'll be using a heat wrap on final install)






Now to assemble everything this is the order I followed.
1. Hoist engine up
2.Install starter -use heatshielding if final install and make sure to leave access to the terminals
3. install motor mount plates loosely to engine. I had to trim one of the bolts that goes through the plate because it hit the gusseting on the engine block. There's a picture of this.
4.install flywheel, clutch, and bell housing.
5. Put the bolt through the drivers side mount and then the passenger side (first I tightened the bolts to the engine block and I couldn't get the through bolts in)
6. Place the mount heat shields in place
7. Tighten the mount to block bolts and the thru bolts for the mounts. Check clearance for the motor mount heat shields so they don't touch anything and make noise. I'll need to modify mine slightly.
8. Install the headers. The drivers side is straight forward. The passenger side took some fancy maneuvering but it went in. Slide the connector through the area in front of the starter and swing it down and back. Note that this is without the engine in the car or the oil pan on. I do not think you'd be able to install the headers with the engine in the car in this manner.

Here's the issue with the mount bolt. I just trimmed it flush with the plate it it worked perfect.




Clearance on the passenger side header is very tight. maybe this will change once everything is bolted up in the car.








Now for test fitting. I first removed the stock subframe.


Then I rolled it to the side of the car, and lifted the front of the car from the welded in support with my engine hoist. This method worked very well IMO.


After lowering the car over the assembly I had to make some clearance a couple times. Here's some of the areas I had issues with in addition to the rear of the subframe where it's slanted back. It was touching and I had to smack the body a little to make clearance.

The front cylinder runner on the passenger side had some interference with the frame rail. Here's what I did.

Here's the first rough cut..

Here's the second. I'll end up trimming a little more off where you see the sharpie line but you get the idea.


Here's the back of the passenger side cylinder head.
Before

After


And here's the whole assembly finally!




and for ***** and giggles, here's the truck intake plopped ontop. It doesn't fit all the way back either where the seam is on the firewall.

ItsAllRigged

Nice work. I had to make the same clearance on the passenger side pinch weld to clear the header tube.

In the end, this swap is incredible in the way everything is easily accessible......everything except the starter. I was ready to crank up the motor for the first time and went to tighten the power lead onto the starter stud and cracked it off without putting very much force on it all. Ugh, that was not the best day to put it mildly.

SupaDupaSteve

I forgot, can anyone think of anything I should check before I take the engine out to finalize the welding?

ItsAllRigged

I wished I would have measured, cut and flared my hard fuel line running to the engine bay before I took it out for the last time.

SupaDupaSteve

As much as I'd like to I don't think I'm going to do hard lines. I was looking at it and it just looks intimidating. How hard was it really? And you have the 37* flare tool right?

ItsAllRigged

Not the easiest, I'll admit but Im glad I did it. Something I never have to worry about are my fuel lines deteriorating.

I do own the flare tool which youre welcome to use. Stng96 has it at the moment to finish his last flare in the engine bay.

charchri4

+1 to the hard lines. Any parts store has them with the fittings and flairs already on them for cheap.

SupaDupaSteve

I gotta ask, why do you guys think it's a good thing to do while the engine is in? I haven't got any parts for my fuel system yet, but I could order stuff this week if that's something that really should be done.

charchri4

No it's way easier to run them with the engine out. You did a great job of taking photos and will go back to them again and again as you wire and plumb.

tbone heller

Be sure to drill a hole on the left & right side of the firewall that you can run some gauge wiring through in the future if needed. You can always plug them off with rubber plugs if not needed. Mark the location that you want them while the engine is still in the car. You will be glad that you did.

Dave Tibbitts

Good point. Not sure if it'll work for your build, but I just used the opening and the grommet from the now unused speedometer cable as my firewall pass-through for all my gauges, A/C command and OBD2 comms. Simply cut and remove the cable, rotate the assembly 180° and reinstall.

stng_96

I should be done with it very soon.

I got my line really close to where I know it will be, and am saving the last little bit for final install.

Don't be afraid of the hardlines, they aren't bad at all.

Lastly, I feel like I have seen it before but now I am questioning, does the Fbody starter not work with the longtubes?

ItsAllRigged

I'll chime in here. Fbody version is too long. Corvette($$$) or the 6.0 Silverado one($) just squeezes in there.

SupaDupaSteve

Thanks for the idea, but I'll run my gauge wiring through the right side bulkhead grommet where the engine harness runs through.
I've shaved my firewall of all other holes.

Those are no longer holes on my car. only hole I left was for the throttle cable lol. No heater outlets, cruise control, or anything really.

Correct. I checked a couple different year 6.0 silverado starters and they were 7" long vs the one I got was a 5.3 suburban which is 6.5". I listed the part number too and it's guaranteed to fit so I would just order it to take the easy way out.

SupaDupaSteve

Got my tunnel welded up this weekend.




Pictures aren't very good though. Now this week I'll scuff the inside of the tunnel and the inside of the car so I can paint the lizard skin coating. Which brings me to my next picture.

In order to paint it needs to be cleaned first. I used purple power and a scrub brush.


I went to get a spool of welding wire at Lowes and found this dewalt compressor on clearance for $235 from $450. It's 30 gallons. My compressor was getting old anyways so this is a nice upgrade

charchri4

Love the lift! Did you check the gas pedal and ac evaporator before you welded it up? Asking because I didn't and had to redo it and yours looks like it's pretty wide. That is one of the things I think is way off in the flyin miata book. The top cut is useless and the side cuts they recommend are way too wide.

SupaDupaSteve

No AC/heat at all so I don't have to worry about that. and Yes, the gas pedal was in while I was doing this so I could check for clearance. I didn't really go by any measurements. I just went with the trial and error fit method.

dietcoke

I like that starter. Sure a lot cheaper then the powermaster I ended up using.

SupaDupaSteve

SupaDupaSteve

ToySnakePMC

Looking nice and tidy on the rear sheet metal. Nice attn to detail.

SupaDupaSteve

Thanks! I'm very particular about things, especially like that that would get much worse over time and jeopardize the paint, structure and value of the car later on.

SupaDupaSteve

Got the interior and the tunnel coated with Lizard skin today. Also sanded down the windshield channel.
The instructions state that you need to use the Sound control first then the Ceramic insulation. 2 coats of each @ 20mil thickness per coat. Each coat needs to dry to the touch before the next is applied. There are different pressures that you spray each at due to the difference in viscosity. I cannot remember at the moment but if anyone is curious I can find the instruction sheet. As a last resort I used a water air seperator right before the gun. It definitely caught some water, IDK if it was all of it but I didn't notice any or see any ill effects.
Here's all the pictures.















The pictures with it applied are only after the first coat. I'll take some pictures in the light tomorrow or the next day when it's fully cured.

ItsAllRigged

Nice progress.

I wish I wouldve been able to drive mine prior to spraying the Lizard Skin. Im sure it works well but hard to say how well. I did not replace the oem firewall insulation and I get a lot of heat coming through that area. Once I tear down for paint I will make sure to add that back in.

I have my fuel line stuff back from Stng96. If youve decided on hard fuel lines youre welcome to use them. I also have 20' of stainless 3/8 line that I double ordered if youre interested. Let me know.