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Wheel studs

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Old 09-23-2014, 03:19 PM
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Default Wheel studs

Hi all,

New guy here

I just purchased new (second hand) uprights with extended studs which are also new. My question is should they be loose? A few of them i can wiggle with my hand and as I've never installed aftermarket studs Im not sure this is kosher.

Thanks in advance!
Old 09-23-2014, 09:27 PM
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No, they should be pressed in tightly.
Old 09-24-2014, 10:19 AM
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+1 to Bob. You should have to use a press or well supported BFH to get them in and out of the hub.
Old 10-06-2014, 10:24 PM
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Should be tight. With any luck, they may just not be installed correctly. Could be an easy fix
Old 01-08-2015, 08:17 AM
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I ended up replacing them all, not worth the risk. Although the fact that I had to have the hub pulled off the upright to replace them is a bit silly. Ah well, I'll sleep better at least.
Old 01-08-2015, 08:54 AM
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Originally Posted by ItsAllRigged
I ended up replacing them all, not worth the risk. Although the fact that I had to have the hub pulled off the upright to replace them is a bit silly. Ah well, I'll sleep better at least.

General info for anyone doing this in the future:

Shouldn't have had to pull the hubs. Insert stud into hub from the back side, line up the splines, put a nut on the stud & then use an impact gun to pull it into position.
Old 01-08-2015, 09:15 AM
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I tried my damnest to do it that way. The worn out ARP lugs that were in there came out the back easily with a little persuasion. But the new ones I ordered were in no way going in without possibly damaging the lug. Maybe there are different ARP part numbers with the same diameter?
Old 01-08-2015, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by ItsAllRigged
I tried my damnest to do it that way. The worn out ARP lugs that were in there came out the back easily with a little persuasion. But the new ones I ordered were in no way going in without possibly damaging the lug. Maybe there are different ARP part numbers with the same diameter?

I wouldn't think so. Could put 'em in the freezer & lube 'em...&/or heat the holes in the hub. @ minimum it is a metal to metal fit & wouldn't surprise me to find that it's an interference fit. They're in now. That's the important thing.
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