Wheel studs
Hi all,
New guy here :) I just purchased new (second hand) uprights with extended studs which are also new. My question is should they be loose? A few of them i can wiggle with my hand and as I've never installed aftermarket studs Im not sure this is kosher. Thanks in advance! |
No, they should be pressed in tightly.
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+1 to Bob. You should have to use a press or well supported BFH to get them in and out of the hub.
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Should be tight. With any luck, they may just not be installed correctly. Could be an easy fix
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I ended up replacing them all, not worth the risk. Although the fact that I had to have the hub pulled off the upright to replace them is a bit silly. Ah well, I'll sleep better at least.
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Originally Posted by ItsAllRigged
(Post 11974)
I ended up replacing them all, not worth the risk. Although the fact that I had to have the hub pulled off the upright to replace them is a bit silly. Ah well, I'll sleep better at least.
General info for anyone doing this in the future: Shouldn't have had to pull the hubs. Insert stud into hub from the back side, line up the splines, put a nut on the stud & then use an impact gun to pull it into position. |
I tried my damnest to do it that way. The worn out ARP lugs that were in there came out the back easily with a little persuasion. But the new ones I ordered were in no way going in without possibly damaging the lug. Maybe there are different ARP part numbers with the same diameter?
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Originally Posted by ItsAllRigged
(Post 11979)
I tried my damnest to do it that way. The worn out ARP lugs that were in there came out the back easily with a little persuasion. But the new ones I ordered were in no way going in without possibly damaging the lug. Maybe there are different ARP part numbers with the same diameter?
I wouldn't think so. Could put 'em in the freezer & lube 'em...&/or heat the holes in the hub. @ minimum it is a metal to metal fit & wouldn't surprise me to find that it's an interference fit. They're in now. That's the important thing. |
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