Rear subframe brace into a '90
#26
V8 Miata Participant
I see our conversation paid off.... too much tire patch on the ground is no good with wheel hop. I have little Idea of how the CTSV rear bolts into the subframe as I did the Cobra mount on Nadine. I will say that it looks like they used a mount from the factory studs to a cross bar and then tie into the CTS diff with one bolt going front to back. On the front you also have just one bolt going front to back. I would add that other mount if it supports the front of the pinion. At least then you are mounted in three places and the diff cant rotate and rock as easily across two axis.
Did you buy the pinion support or is that just a link? I am wondering how it attaches to the car end... through the factory rubber bushing but with a longer bolt?
Did you buy the pinion support or is that just a link? I am wondering how it attaches to the car end... through the factory rubber bushing but with a longer bolt?
Last edited by Meierznutz; 01-05-2015 at 07:56 PM.
#27
V8 Miata Participant
I'm back.... I looked into some of the issues with the CTSV diff and talked to a couple friends that have the cars. One has the supercharged 6.2 in his and says that he had to replace the front diff bushing almost immediately after buying his car. He went with the race (Red) bushing from Creative-steel.com It was $49.95 plus shipping. They rent a tool set for $30 with purchase ($250 deposit) for seven days after you receive the tool. You ship it back and they don't charge for the shipping days if you provide them tracking. With their tools this is supposed to be a 1 hour swap and you can do the job in the car!
Lucky for me I have the diff still on the bench and that new-to-me 12 ton press in the garage. Looks like I am doing the red bushing before it gets bolted together!
Lucky for me I have the diff still on the bench and that new-to-me 12 ton press in the garage. Looks like I am doing the red bushing before it gets bolted together!
#28
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Once a builder upgrades to rear tires capable of using the "under the curve" HP/TQ, the importance of boxing & stiffening lower control arms will become apparent. Until then, wheel spin will occur before flexing & wheel hop (related to the flex created by improperly framed & stiffened LCA's). Near solidly mounted diff housing is effective, but is only part of the complete solution.
The site could use a couple of minutes after posting for errors to be corrected before the site adds the edited note.
Last edited by 523-LSX-NB; 01-06-2015 at 08:13 AM.
#30
I think i might have found a possible culprit....
Yes, It came out that easy with my hands Pre-video.
My dad has my upper control arms which he is completely boxing in. I ordered the 90-91 OBX (exact same as FM) differential brace.
Waiting to for my Revshift (green) bushing to come in so i can put it in and see what all happens!. wish me luck.
Yes, It came out that easy with my hands Pre-video.
My dad has my upper control arms which he is completely boxing in. I ordered the 90-91 OBX (exact same as FM) differential brace.
Waiting to for my Revshift (green) bushing to come in so i can put it in and see what all happens!. wish me luck.
#33
Jim Stainer
LOL loved the video and yeah that bushing was toast for sure! Looks like one heck of a set up you have cooked up there ^^. I'm looking forward to how this comes out but I have no doubt it will be much improved!
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