V8r LS1 Partout Feeler
#1
V8 Miata Follower
Thread Starter
V8r LS1 Partout Feeler
I haven't touched my project in at least a year and I'm not convinced I'm going to get the motivation to get 'er done... trying to see if it's worth a part-out before I pull the trigger and start listing stuff for real. I'm going to start by listing the big ticket items, if there's interest, then I'll start a full detailed thread with everything and begin selling. All parts are located in SE Michigan. See build thread here: https://www.v8miata.net/general-moto...nb-build-2838/
-$4200, LS1 + T56 from 98 Camaro, LS6 valley cover, LS6 intake, truck coil packs, Flyin Miata aluminum oil pan w/ remote oil filter, CTS accessories
-$900, V8r subframe + Boss Frog frame rail and T56 mount, boss frog mounts at same height as V8r so driveline angles were perfect
-$700, V8r longtubes with slight bends welded to make parallel and Burns double slips welded on, driver side is currently wrapped in DEI titanium, can wrap passenger or remove driver side wrap
-$1200, MS3pro gen 1 with LS1 drop on harness
-$2400, RX7 TII 4.1 diff w/ OS Giken, axles, subframe, hubs, control arms, uprights, aluminum driveshaft, etc, etc, etc, literally bolt the subframe to the chassis and bolt the driveshaft on
-$4200, LS1 + T56 from 98 Camaro, LS6 valley cover, LS6 intake, truck coil packs, Flyin Miata aluminum oil pan w/ remote oil filter, CTS accessories
-$900, V8r subframe + Boss Frog frame rail and T56 mount, boss frog mounts at same height as V8r so driveline angles were perfect
-$700, V8r longtubes with slight bends welded to make parallel and Burns double slips welded on, driver side is currently wrapped in DEI titanium, can wrap passenger or remove driver side wrap
-$1200, MS3pro gen 1 with LS1 drop on harness
-$2400, RX7 TII 4.1 diff w/ OS Giken, axles, subframe, hubs, control arms, uprights, aluminum driveshaft, etc, etc, etc, literally bolt the subframe to the chassis and bolt the driveshaft on
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duke (11-22-2020)
#3
V8 Miata Follower
Thread Starter
Hi Dave,
The pictures in this album are pretty up to date: https://flic.kr/s/aHskLJZRzY
To be honest, one of the main reasons for losing motivation is the condition of the chassis. There are rust holes behind the pinch welds that need patched, I had a front end collision so the front sheet metal is all cutout and bent. I didn't want to sink a bunch of money into the swap and still have to do a bunch of body work to make it nice. My choices were either to find a clean shell and start over, or part out. I can take some pictures of the condition of the shell if you're still interested.
As it sits, the engine/subframe is out of the car because there was some engine stuff I needed to do (RTV the oil pan gasket, install sensors, finish welding header slip joints), but that's a half hour job to get back in. The rear subframe is in and complete. New fuel pump and regulator are done and mounted, the fuel line just needs an AN fitting attached and then secured to the frame rails with P-clamps. The MS3pro harness needs merged in with the fuse box, and the new fuse box needs wired to the battery/alternator (I was going to use a new Bussmann fuse box). This was turning into a mostly track car build, so I stripped apart a lot of the stock wiring harness, all that's left is the basics (window motors, lights, bare minimum needed to run a digital dash, etc. I basically have the dash, Kirkey driver seat, stock passenger seat, and wasn't planning on any other interior (so I don't have carpet, door cards, seat belt trim, etc).
Feel free to send me a PM if that's easier.
The pictures in this album are pretty up to date: https://flic.kr/s/aHskLJZRzY
To be honest, one of the main reasons for losing motivation is the condition of the chassis. There are rust holes behind the pinch welds that need patched, I had a front end collision so the front sheet metal is all cutout and bent. I didn't want to sink a bunch of money into the swap and still have to do a bunch of body work to make it nice. My choices were either to find a clean shell and start over, or part out. I can take some pictures of the condition of the shell if you're still interested.
As it sits, the engine/subframe is out of the car because there was some engine stuff I needed to do (RTV the oil pan gasket, install sensors, finish welding header slip joints), but that's a half hour job to get back in. The rear subframe is in and complete. New fuel pump and regulator are done and mounted, the fuel line just needs an AN fitting attached and then secured to the frame rails with P-clamps. The MS3pro harness needs merged in with the fuse box, and the new fuse box needs wired to the battery/alternator (I was going to use a new Bussmann fuse box). This was turning into a mostly track car build, so I stripped apart a lot of the stock wiring harness, all that's left is the basics (window motors, lights, bare minimum needed to run a digital dash, etc. I basically have the dash, Kirkey driver seat, stock passenger seat, and wasn't planning on any other interior (so I don't have carpet, door cards, seat belt trim, etc).
Feel free to send me a PM if that's easier.
#5
V8 Miata Follower
Thread Starter
The only bit that would be different for an NA would be the way the steering rack mounts, however I have a depowered NB rack that would come with the subframe, which makes that a non-issue. It's believed that the NB subframe geometry and steering rack has better geometry than the NA anyway.
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flipt86
V8 Miata Chassis and Suspension
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05-08-2017 01:20 PM
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