Tube chassis turbo ls miata build. Delaware.

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Apr 15, 2014 | 07:52 AM
  #26  
love your build, going to do some of the same things on mine this fall. awesome rear end, looks like it can take a beating. wish I knew what width and the mfg of that rear end, I want one.
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Apr 15, 2014 | 10:44 AM
  #27  
The housing is a competion engineering fab 9 inch. The rear tires are 335/35/17 on replica 10.5 wide cobra wheels. The housing has to be built to your specs.
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May 18, 2014 | 08:42 AM
  #28  
Damn man! Do you still have the car? I have a shop called the Rat Factory in Indy. I've built some wild stuff, but Your Miata project is nastier than mine! Tens my ***! I'm thinking low nines?
Mine's a back halved, 8.8 rear, 350+.060, 12.2:1, nitrous car. I'm new here, but seeing your build's making me reconsider the front clip.
Dave
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May 20, 2014 | 06:42 AM
  #29  
Yes I'm still building. To much going on right now to get anything done on it.
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Jun 12, 2015 | 06:09 AM
  #30  
Well life has gotten in the way for the last couple months. I am working on getting the coilovers squared away now. I'm dealing with Brian from Hanchey vehicle technologys. Hopefully gonna order special made front and rear coilovers that will fit my build.
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Jun 14, 2015 | 02:15 PM
  #31  
Quote: Im front mounting the turbo. The rad will be in the trunk. 2x3 frame will stop at crossmember mounts, the be a removable tube clip. Ill be running a remote mount electric water pump. http://i1278.photobucket.com/albums/...psaf51a7cc.jpg
The radiator in the rear sounds like a great idea...get the heat out of the engine compartment and free up some precious real estate under the hood. You may want to check NHRA rules if you want to run it at the dragstrip. Section 1:1 states "All cooling systems/radiators must be installed in the stock location for body style used."

They have a lot of rules and it would be worth your time to look at them if you want to run at a dragstrip. Here's a link NHRARacer.com - NHRA RULES

My BossFrog double hoop rollbar won't pass their rules but I'm hoping they don't enforce the rules on "test and tune" nights.
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Jun 14, 2015 | 02:37 PM
  #32  
Thank you for pointing that out. Well doesn't that suck! Maybe a fake one up there. Lol I wonder why that is even a rule?
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Jun 14, 2015 | 03:12 PM
  #33  
The custom coilovers were going to be pretty penny. Trying to spread the money in the right places made me go with the Ohlin's kit. It allowed me to purchase the 14 inch willwood front brake kit. The upper mounts for all of the shock mounts have to be fabbed regardless. I figured might as well do it with factory mounts. Easier to get replacement parts later.
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Jun 19, 2015 | 02:17 PM
  #34  
I'd like to hear more about the rear radiator you are doing. Got any updated pixs?
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Jun 19, 2015 | 04:34 PM
  #35  
Quote:
You need to pray you don't hit anything. a good straight 1/4 impact and that frame rail is headed straight for your groin.




recommended change would be to put a bend in it. that way if you crash the frame will be pushed upwards.

Tube chassis turbo ls miata build. Delaware.-20131130_005939_zps013aeb00.jpg   Tube chassis turbo ls miata build. Delaware.-frontssframe.png  

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Jun 21, 2015 | 06:10 PM
  #36  
I'm no where near the point of building the radiator system. I will be running an electric remote water pump.

I get what your saying about the frame. I'm gonna triangulate the bottom of the vertical 2x3 where your feet will go. The dash bar of the cage will get tied into that vertical piece as well. The front sub-frame connects to both of the horizontal and vertical pieces. I could take a chunk out of the bottom of the front rails before the sub-frame starts to make a make shift crumple zone. Thanks for the input.
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