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Old 12-02-2017, 06:01 PM   #226
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If you did an LS/V8 swap, most likely you aren't using the OEM undertray since the mounting points are gone. In another effort to make the car more stable at speed in anticipation of track days, and to protect some of the fragile parts underneath, I decided to add an undertray. I did this after addressing any leaks and issues which I've been fixing and watching the last month or so.

I also removed the little air dam that runs a few inches behind the front of the lower spoiler or "lip". I had cut it up to give room for the lower radiator mounting I made. It removes with 5 10mm screws and the little self tapping clips. Keep the screws and clips.

I reinstalled the clips and made some marks where the holes are so I'd know where they were when the spoiler was boing mocked up. You'll even notice that there is a little step where the air dam was, which will be perfect to fit in the new undertray and make a nice, even transition.



I used some cardboard to make a template. I just used the cardboard that the aluminum sheet came with. Some drawing, cutting, and recutting got it close enough. Then I used a screwdrive to poke holes in the cardboard to find the 5 mounting holes. I removed any sharp, 90 degree corners



For the tray itself I found some pretty reasonably priced metals online. I bought a 24" x 48" sheet of .080" thick 3030 aluminum. This is a good thickness I think, stiff, still somewhat flexible, will not add much weight (it's aluminum) and affordable.

I ordered the metal from Metal Remnants - Custom Cut To Size Metal for $33.00 + $17 shipping for a $50 total which I thought was pretty reasonable.

The 24" width would represent the distance from the front of undertray and reach to approximately where the front of the oil pan and main tube of the subframe is. This would give me a good point to create the rear mounting locations by using the subframe to weld to. It wouldn't interfere with any oil changes either.

I just used some 3/16" steel to bend some tabs, installed some 8mm nutsert/rivnuts and then welded them to the boxed tubing part of the subframe where the control arms attach. Cleaned up the welds and used the same gray spray paint.



Here is the tray removed from the car




Final installed product. Took it for a quick test drive, couldn't get up to the speed I wanted due to the holiday shoppers heading to the mall I suspect. But I didn't hear or notice any issues.



One thing I did was to make the mounting tabs such that the tray would make a slight bend as it touches the subframe in the middle of the tray. My hope was that it would prevent any "flapping" or rubbing at speed. If that didn't work out, at least I'd have room to add some spacers or washers to bring the tray down a bit until everything was good.
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Old 12-03-2017, 12:19 PM   #227
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Nice work.
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Old 12-03-2017, 02:46 PM   #228
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Quote:
Originally Posted by darkblue View Post
Your car sounds good. I'm looking forward to seeing your undertray fab. Are you thinking your car is getting too hot under the hood? Is the metal cheaper by mail? i've got one of these near me www.metalsupermarkets.com
I haven't noticed any overheating issues, but with the two high-flow fans, aluminum radiator, hood vents and now the undertray I think that should be the least of my worries. The real test will be on track in the summer.

I did some shopping on ebay and other sites and all were pretty close to each other. I did compare like product with www.metalsupermarkets.com, which was about $65 shipped I recall for the same aluminum I was looking at. I didn't find out what items were available locally that would save on shipping, but was surprised to see a local one about 15 mins from me. Thanks for bringing that to my attention. Home Depot and Lowes in my area have expanded their selection of "hobby metal" and reasonable prices too, enough to sustain most DIYers.
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Old 01-10-2018, 10:33 PM   #229
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Over the holiday break I started the process to address the braking performance. A nice holiday bonus, some winter "down time" and the recent availability of some pretty nice BBKs (Big Brake Kit) pushed me in this direction. The Toyo Proxes R1R I was using all year should not be used below temps of 15F, and winter came in like a lion in my area with low temps in the single digits for days on end, so I had park the car for a bit. It just started to warm up this week allowing me some time in the garage.

For the fronts I went with the TrackSpeed Engineering 11.75" kit with the directional vane rotors (recommended for track use), Wilwood DynaPro calipers, stainless lines, and Wilwood proportioning valve. Trackspeed 11.75" Gen2 Big Brake Kit Those with the kit report there isn't a need to upgrade the brake master cylinder for a good pedal feel.

I also added the Singular Motorsports brake ducts Singular Motorsports Brake Ducts

Size comparison with the original Sport brake rotors



I assembled the hats with safety wire (the bolts are pre drilled) and mounted up the calipers with the brake ducts.





The brake ducts needed some trimming since there was so little clearance between the rotor and and the tie rod end. Spent more time cutting, bending and test fitting than I would have liked. I bet these will move in time and with heat/cool cycles that they'll make some noise. I have some 2.5" brake duct hose that I plan to use to duct some air from the front of the car to the brake duct. Trying to figure out what my options are there.







I did some research and decided on Performance Friction pads, as many track junkies on www.miataturbo.com are happy with them for their streetability and "cold bite" to their linear feel and great performance on the track. Then I realized I was running the same compound on my E36 M3 back when I was considering doing track days with the car. I really like these pads on my M3 so I figured how could I go wrong on the Miata?

A rep from OG Racing (he also tracks an LS1 Miata) is active on the MiataTurbo forums, and the prices were good: http://www.ogracing.com/performance-...ad-01-compound

I'll report back on the braking performance once these are on the road. I had to do some notching of the backing plates to fit the cotter pins

Last edited by pj_mcgarvey; 01-10-2018 at 11:05 PM.
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Old 01-10-2018, 10:54 PM   #230
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The Wilwood prop valve install was straight forward. I need to make a small bracket to keep it solidly mounted to the original bracket the old stock prop valve was using. Trackspeed includes some solid steel fittings they recommend in place of the brass ones included in the Wilwood kit. Some minor bending of the lines is needed to connect it all up. With the LS1 in there, you will need to orient the prop valve to your liking so it will clear the engine. The color of the brake fluid is weird b/c I dumped a bit of an older bottle in there since it had gotten low after leaking fluid doing the front brakes. It will all get flushed out in the end.




For the rear brakes, alot of track junkies report great success with a larger 10.9" rotor in the rear, while keeping the stock 1.8L single piston calipers (cant recall the piston size) and the same compound pad as in the front, while using the 11.75" front BBK. To reuse the same caliper with a larger rotor requires a caliper relocation bracket from M-Tuned. Track Dog Racing was the only place that had them in stock when I looked. https://trackdogracing.com/tdr-bbk18.aspx

They will sell you just the rear conversion kit and your choice of rotors. I went with the slotted ones. As mentioned I also went with the same pad compound as the front: Performance Friction 0636.11.13.44 Racing Pad - 11 Compound

Turns out the rear calipers could use a rebuild as the caliper pins were pretty dried out, and I figure I'm not in a rush.




Also, I'm on the lookout for new winter wheels/tires that will fit over my bigger front brakes. My 949 6UL 15x7 wheels do not clear the Wilwoods. The inner diameter of the wheel is too small by about 1/8". Someone has a set of Kosei K1 wheels with all-season tires that I plan to check out and maybe trade for my 6ULs. Until I figure out an all-season tire situation, or the warm weather stays for awhile, I don't see driving the car until March.
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Old 01-18-2018, 08:26 AM   #231
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Completed the rear brake caliper rebuild. I have a 99 Miata with the 1.8L rear calipers, so I used the rebuild kit NAY1-26-46ZB from https://www.prioritymazdaparts.com/o...ear-nay12646zb

Careful what kit you buy, as some may not include the seals or orings for the parking brake mechanism. Seems that the "OEM" kits from Mazda have the right parts. I used a couple guides to make sure I knew what was up before I started. Familiarity with rebuilding calipers is nice, but not essential. Take pictures so you know where and how stuff goes back together.

Rebuilding Miata Rear Calipers | FASTCRAFT'S motorsport pages

None of the rubber was in terrible shape, so the hard metal parts we all reusable as they didn't see any water or dirt. In my experience, the caliper pistons can get scored or rusty over time, but mine were in perfect shape.

The one challenge was accessing the c-clip / snap ring inside the caliper which requires a long and narrow snap ring plier and some patience and care. I'll try to post a pic of the pliers I had to borrow from someone. Using a pick or screwdrivers is probably not advisable since it will be just as hard getting the clip back in, and you may scratch up the inside of the caliper bore in the process.

Anyhow, here are some final pics of the rear kit installed, with lines, etc.

The rear caliper extension kit


Final setup



All buttoned up, just need to do a full brake bleed using my Motive power bleeder. and maybe some manual bleeding to finalize everything.
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Old 01-18-2018, 08:36 AM   #232
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I was able to locate some wheels/tires that will fit over my larger front brake kit. I traded wheels with a friend, giving him my 15x7 6ULs for his 15x7 Kosei K1 Racing wheels. After making up a brake template out of cardboard to check clearances, we were able to determine his wheels would work before I made the drive to check them out.

So I can report that 15x7 Kosei K1 Racing (different than the K1 TS wheels) in a +36 offset do fit. They actually have a bit more clearance thatn the 15x9 6ULs that are wearing my summer tires.. The tires are far from fresh, but will do me fine til spring.




I may have mentioned before that the front studs were way too short after adding the brake kit and the rotor hats are thicker over the hub than the regular iron rotors. Luckily my friend with the wheels had a new set of the ARP studs I was just about to buy, so he sold them to me for less than new. Got home and installed them after test fitting the wheels.




Might invest in some better wheel lugs to take advantage of longer studs I have in front and back now. 949 Racing sells some nice ones.

Wrapping up the install of my new projector headlight retrofit and will post the details on that soon.
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Old 01-18-2018, 09:24 AM   #233
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Good to see that you are making continuing progress.
Something I appreciate is that you explained specifically why you installed longer studs.
Until reading your post I was in the dark as to what situation demands the studs be changed out.
Now I know to get a set as part of installing bigger brakes at whatever point I decide to do that upgrade.
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Old 01-18-2018, 09:41 AM   #234
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This was never mentioned in the any of the big brake upgrade threads I read, so it's possible most people were already doing track days, and had the longer and strong ARP studs. The part is about $30 on Amazon. As I mentioned, it also allows you to use longer (open ended preferably) lug nuts, another good option for track days, since the studs and lugs will be seeing some stress and, tend to get removed and reinstalled more often, etc.
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