pj_mcgarvey's - LS1/T56 NB build thread
 

It was the summer of 2015 that I first got the itch to build a V8 Miata. I had recently decided to sell my 85 Golf Turbo track car - just got tired of man handling a high-powered FWD car around the track the last couple of years. Been a mostly FWD guy since I started autocrossing, and it just struck me as the wrong way to do things.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O3...sYGw=w939-h682

I also fell in love with the V8 sound, and thought it would be outrageous to hear that coming out the back of a Miata, not to mention the power and capable chassis that be part of the package.

Eventually I sold the Golf in July 2015, and had already had my eye on a few Miatas by that time. I was thinking supercharged so it would have enough power to "hold me over" while I planned the LS swap. Found an autocross setup M45 SC'd, rollbar'd NB locally for a good price. Figured the LSD and SC might make some money back after I pulled them.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Uu...Gwuw=w910-h682

Bought a 1999 Black Miata in August 2015 and enjoyed driving it the rest of summer and fall, then it sat in the garage for the winter and I did suspension bushings, new top, 6UL wheels, track dog racing SC pulleys, and other mods that would later be "nice to haves" once the LS was in there.

I thought I would get the chance to track the Miata this summer, but that never materialized. Meanwhile I had to do emergency headgasket change on our Subaru during June/July.

For the engine my initial idea was to search for an alum. block "LS" such as an L33 or other truck motor, and piece together something that would fit in the Miata. Not sure why I was stuck on this idea for so long, but I eventually realized these were hard to find, and the time/money aspect didn't make sense. I came to my senses and started to keep my eye out for LS1s. In April 2016 I picked up a used, 30k mile LS1 "drop out", mounted it on an engine stand and started to go over it.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d4...XylQ=w910-h682

Since this was supposedly a 30k mile engine, I didn't anticipate doing any internal engine modifications, and everything looked in good shape, despite some dirt and leaves from when the engine sat, maybe uncovered - as it came out of a sideswipe-wrecked Convertible in Maine.

I cleaned up the block with a wire wheel and brush, and painted it Duplicolor red. Removed intake, exhaust, steam pipes and cleaned up the surfaces with a green abrasive pad.

One of the first parts I ordered was the Flying Miata steel baffled oil pan. Had to do some massaging of the pan to clear the oil pump feed tube
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f8...xa_g=w910-h682

The feed tube itself needed some grinding
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/th...6NcA=w910-h682

Cut the oil pan baffle to clear the low profile of the new pan
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0N...Gc2A=w910-h682

Had to shorten some of the oil pan bolts so they wouldn't bottom out in the holes, wonder if FM was supposed to send me new bolts? Ah well.. Once all the clearance was checked with silly putty I loosely bolted down the pan.


Next up was to install a new oil pump and double roller timing chain.

Oil pump was a new GM part. I didn't take any pics but I used a small die grinder to clean up some casting flash on the inlet side and smoothed it out. Every little bit counts. Then cleaned out the pump and reassembled with loctite, etc.

The double roller chain seemed like a good upgrade considering I will track this car and drive it hard. Initially went with this chain from Summit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-30678533

Learned a lesson in not checking the parts before installation as I noticed the teeth on the gear were mushroomed. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Ig...YRMQ=w910-h682

My guess is that someone had installed this prior to me, tried to turn over the engine and torqued it too hard and the chain mashed up into the gears. Of course it was returned and no mention made of the damage and no one apparently looked at the return part and just put it back on the shelf. I told Summit this, but my guess is it's back on the shelf and now someone else's problem Those little bits of metal will not make for a happy engine.

Went with a Comp Cams timing set and installation seemed smooth, better instructions and maybe a better name to back it up. With a double roller chain, they provide small spacers to push the pump away from the engine about 1/8" to clear the chain.

Doing some research I found out that it's a good idea to shim the oil pump gears, so I found a kit that does this: http://schumannsdynamicperformance.c.../131433/LSALTL

This may be overkill, but again in a track situation I'd rather be on the safe side of keeping this engine oiled properly.

Final update for this post is a snag with the timing cover. Due to the double roller chain and the oil pump needing to be spaced out 1/8" it was rubbing on the cover. Used a die grinder to very lightly remove metal from the cover where it was needed. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BX...QyYg=w512-h682

Used silly putty again (I asked my daughter first ;-) to check the clearance and with a new gasket installed and torqued down I didn't detect any issues. New front seal was installed of course and cover painted to match. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/gd...4lsw=w512-h682

Shot of oil pan installed
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/WB...rLsA=w910-h682

Another thing I picked up early on after getting the LS1 was an ATI Super Damper crank balancer. The original balancer showed some cracking in the rubber damping ring (it's an almost 20 year old engine) and I wanted to get a lower profile balancer to help with clearance at the front of the engine.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ATI-917266 This is for the Corvette LS1, and it saves about 1" I think.

The balancer gets installed with a special tool (seems to be alot of special pullers and installers in the LS world)
Balancer tool: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019HR8XK0

Torqued it on with an ARP bolt which called for 235 ft. lbs.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qf...ah4Q=w512-h682

Seems excessive so I settled for 190 on my wrench.
ARP Bolt: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D0MJNC

ATI Damper installed
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Wr...tjdQ=w512-h682

To play nice with the belt alignment of the ATI damper I also installed the matching Corvette style water pump, which also saves about 1" at the pulley.


This is the water pump to get: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZZ8EO

Along with the matching tensioner: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049Z4TTA

Not my pic, but here's a comparison of the regular FBody WP and the Corvette WP:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/0j...xhFQ=w800-h600

Next up will be the clutch/flywheel, and the Miata engine coming out.

With the front of the engine looking spiffy with some new parts, it was time to turn my attention to the rear.

Reading some of the forums here and on v8miata it seemed like people had good experiences with Monster clutches. I went with the Stage 2 kit and 18lb (light) flywheel.

I placed my order with Maryland Speed which had the best prices, though they were a bit slow on processing and shipping the order. The clutch/flywheel/pressure plate shipped form Monster. The slave and Tick speed bleeder took a bit longer. It's a good thing I wasn't someone with their daily driver down with a bad clutch. In the end everything worked out, so no harm, no foul.

Clutch kit: http://marylandspeed.com/monster-clu...ii-p-2084.html

I had installed a new rear main seal sometime before. Didn't see any signs of leaking, but good insurance. Also ordered a new pilot bearing with the clutch kit. Put it in the freezer a few days before. Rented a tool from Autozone that pulled the bearing in a matter of seconds. http://www.autozone.com/loan-a-tools...et/391362_0_0/

Just used a socket that matched the outside diameter of the bearing and slowly tapped it into place.

Cleaned off the crank mounting surface with a scotch brite pad in prep for the flywheel. Went with the ARP bolts for flywheel and PP.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/d7...85Q=w1280-h800


As you'll see here, ARP doesn't say much about the type of tool needed to install the bolts.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/YW...f0I=w1280-h800

One might assume that a metric socket would work, but no. Turns out this needed a 1/2" 12 point socket. I didn't have one of these and wasn't willing to settle for a similar metric size that might do the job. I ran to Home Depot and luckily found a single socket for about $4.

Used the loctite and lube and torqued them in. The crank balancer tool I bought also came with a flywheel locking tool that bolts into the starter location and holds the flywheel tight so you can torque in the balancer and the flywheel/pressure plate. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019HR8XK0

Here it is installed
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/g6...zNk=w1280-h800


Monster publishes their install instructions online: https://monsterclutches.com/pdf/Sing...nstalltips.pdf

Cleaned off the flywheel with plenty of brake clean, and then laid in the clutch disc with the included alignment tool
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/mm...Mv8=w1280-h800

There are 3 included dowel pins that will need to be installed into the flywheel that help align the pressure plate. The instructions detail where these go. These are hardened metal pins so I used a body work hammer to light tap them in until they took a set inside the hole and then took some harder swings to set them in. Make sure you don't miss and strike the flywheel.

ARP at it again with the vague instructions. No mention of what size bolts are in my package on the package itself or in the instructions. I looked up the ARP part number online to find out these are 10mm bolts, so 50 ft. lbs was the order of the day. Monster says 52 in their instructions. I really would've expected more from ARP....
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Nw...xMc=w1280-h800


After cleaning off the PP with plenty of brake clean, I laid it in and threaded the bolts. Didn't have any alignment issues here. Used a cordless impact to tighten the PP down to the flywheel using a criss cross pattern. Used a torque wrench to do the final criss cross torque down dance.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/ak...Ctg=w1280-h800


To top things off I installed the bellhousing. This will allow me to do a few test fits in the engine bay when the time comes without the transmission being attached. You know Amazon has EVERYTHING when you can buy an LS style T56 bellhousing with free shipping. I had been looking for a used one but felt like I was running out of time so pulled the trigger on a new one for $220 from Amazon.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/T6...rCM=w1280-h800


I just used the impact to tighten it on, it will get a final torque later on. Used bolts I also bought from Amazon
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Cj...WZA=w1280-h800

Bought the same set for the trans to bell housing connection.

One question I have that I have not researched is the gap at the bottom of the bell where the FBody oil pan used to be. You can see I'm pointing to one of the two bolt holes that are not being used on the bottom half of the bell.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rW...Ff8=w1280-h800


The custom FM oil pan doesn't have provisions for connecting the bell to the oil pan, so I'm just hoping there is enough strength there. I emailed Flyin Miata, and they responded:

"The lack of bracing on the lower two bellhousing bolts isn’t something we consider a problem. We have many street cars as well as race cars with this setup that have experienced zero issues. Adding brackets to the oil pan would put it under undue stress since it’s not designed to be a structural member like the F-Body oil pan. You would also risk warping the pan or its mating flange with welding heat.

What we do recommend is our LSx Flywheel cover plate. It is basically an inspection cover that bolts in place using the two lower bellhousing mounting holes and acts to keep large debris out of the bellhousing. The part number is 26-04105 and retails for $19.50 plus shipping. It’s not available individually through the webstore so if you’re interested give us a call."

I have a rebuilt T56 coming to me soon. I'll have more details on this in another post.

Started attacking the dashboard the last couple days. Didn't find any really good guides out there, but one site seemed to focus in on some details: http://mostlymiata.blogspot.com/2013...h-removal.html

I also looked at the FSM for my year car, which was good in some areas but not very detailed.

Here are some of the tools that helped me out. You will be using various flashlights to get into tight spaces and see where the next connector, bolt or wire is that you need to remove.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5p...9Vew=w910-h682


These pics are from the FSM in PDF form I have. You can find these pretty readily online in PDF form.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/2c...tYwA=w731-h636

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/4M...ZhNg=w651-h610

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/B-...-DYg=w368-h305

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/00...NRYw=w575-h478

Once the large bolts pictured above are out, the whole assembly should start to move a bit so you know it's coming loose. In my case it became obvious that modifications over the years have routed wires through spaces that will require you to cut the connections, label where they go back together and do that after the dash is out, or reroute on the spot.

There will be some wire connectors that you will not be able to see or reach until you have the dash a few inches out. Once those are disconnected and nothing is snagged on the dash, it should come out pretty easily.


I used various methods of labeling my connections to make it easier when I put it back together
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-E...t2Dg=w512-h682


I even labeled parts of the metal dash structure with numbers that correlate to the plastic "pop out" connectors that hold the wires in place inside the dash. I also labeled the wire near the connector. I think once you get a few of these connected to start you off the rest should fall into place...let's hope.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6D...szQw=w910-h682


One of two oddball connectors that took me a few minutes to figure out. You press in a small green tab at the front of that green piece, and then should be able to lift up the larger green piece with a small screwdriver. Left it up as far as it will go, and then remove the female harness connector from one side (not shown) that fits into the larger white connector you see.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_W...xZ2A=w512-h682


This is what it looks like as of 9pm one night
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/qE...E4zg=w910-h682

Good news is that with the dash out, I should be able to fix part of the vent system that got hacked up by the previous owner when he installed a gauge in one of the middle eyeball vents. I had moved the gauges into an A-pillar gauge pod, and used duct foil tape to seal the connection
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/wL...56nw=w910-h682

closeup of the foil tape. The hvac piece is about $22 online, so that should be an easy fix.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/xT...e2Xw=w512-h682

Looks like you are off to a great start. Welcome to the madness. Also, in case you were wondering, 99 is the fastest year

Fastest to get the swap done? ;-) That's my hope.

Took me about 10 months to get my car running, take that for what you will.

This post is a bit out of order with the previous ones, but I have a few pics of the engine pullout.

I decided to pick Labor Day weekend as the weather was looking nice, and I could do it in the driveway w/out fear of rain. One side of the two car garage might've been able to pull it off, but the engine hoist makes WIDE TURNS like a Semi and my garage floor is not very level... old house, old garage.

Had to turn to Youtube to figure out how the PPF detaches from the rear differential at the top. Exhaust to header bolts were easy and it was just a matter of cataloging the bolts and nuts as I removed them so they would go back together.

I have a load leveler for the hoist, but turns out I didn't need it. Weight distribution seemed ok to get it out.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480299265

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480299265

Also, I totally forgot about the shifter inside the car The trans was caught on something while in the air and I couldn't figure it out. So I quickly jumped in the car and pushed the shifter through, tearing the rubber boot in the process.... might be reusable.

I'd say it took about 4 hours, about the same as my Subaru engine I removed in June, though that came out w/out the trans.

Dropped it on a moving dolly so I could manage space in the driveway if needed

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480299265



One warning I will make, that I'm pretty sure I've read on the forums is that the weight distribution with the engine out and the car on jackstands is a bit sketchy. Please be aware of this. Depending on where you place the jackstands and what you pulled out it could tilt off the jackstands pretty easily.

I found this out while I was UNDER the car and using a breaker bar to loosen the front subframe bolts. The torque I was putting on them moved the car a bit and I was like WTF!!! Got out from the car and realized I could lift the front of the car an inch or two off the front jackstands with one hand, and not much force. At that point I placed some wood blocks under the rear wheels so they wouldn't tilt down, then proceeded carefully.

Now that I have the rear subframe and driveline out, the balance is much better. But the car is so light now that it's still worth paying attention to.

First few pics don't work

Thanks, should be fixed now. I used to rely on Google Picasa for linking and embedding pics, Google Photos has been forced on us now, and there is alot more to organizing and embedding photos now... Still learning

Lookin good! Now I have someone to try and race to the finish!!

Looks like you have a really clean starting platform! When did you start the build exactly?

That is no joke....itsallrigged was about a month or so ahead of me on his build and his progress was actually a consistent source of motivation so I could make progress.

That's why I'm here too. Hopefully some constructive criticism and/or attaboys will help keep me active on this. I started this officially last summer when I spent the better part of a summer vacation dreaming of this build :) (the Thunderbolt Miata LS build on Youtube really inspired me) - but needed to sell one car buy another (Miata) first. My goal was to enjoy the Miata this past summer which I did. My state inspection expired at end of August, so I figured why reup that and get the needed alignment (replaced bad shock). So I just saved the money and tore into it. The car is from the midwest so has very little rust, but has some "hail rash".

So I officially started on Labor Day. Trying to spend a few hours during the week where I can in addition to available weekend hours to get me going. The pleasant weather helps when we can get it.

I upgraded heat in the garage from a propane powered "bullet" heater (too noisy, and too much risk of carbon monoxide) to a 5000w/220v electric heater. This should help keep it comfortable once it gets a bit colder.

I have some Friday's and Mondays planned to be off from work, so I can have a day to myself to get alot done if the weekends don't work out.

My goal is by Spring to have it running.

Picture Storage
 

Hello pj_mcgarvey

Does your internet service provider give you any web space? I am with Telus in BC and they provide me with 100 megs of storage,(lame for a web page),but is enough to store many 800 X 600 photo's. Then you don't have to put up with all the crap the a free picture storage site has on it and you also remain the owner of your pics, if you care. I use a FTP file uploader, FileZilla (free), to upload my pics to my web space then just link to them. I hate free pic sites that force you to give them the rights to your pictures but then that's only me. If you need help feel free to PM me and I can walk you through the whole process, that is if you have web space available.

Just a thought if interested.

Dean0

I used that fact to my advantage. I made a small dolly out of 2x4's and some heavy casters. Engine, trans, subframe and suspension and steering all slide under the car as a complete module now. I have another 2x4 cut to the perfect length to use as a kickstand under the bumper to hold the car up while sliding everything underneath.

I had to strap my car down to the lift arms, otherwise it would have gone over backwards. It was sketchy.

I tried the comp cams double chain timing set. Wound up sending it back to Summit because it would interfere with the cam position sensor on the LS3 front cover. Went to a single row setup from some Australian company. Haven't started the engine but at least now the engine turns over by hand again. Scared me a bit. LOL

You may want to re-torque that harmonic balancer bolt. I've read numerous issues with the ARP bolt even when torqued correctly. I went with a factory bolt. Also fwiw, when I went to remove it my 1/2" Milwaukee impact barely removed it and it is advertised at like 1100 or 1200 ft/lbs so tbh, I bet the factory way over torques it.

This is my first experience with GM engines, but with the crank pulley and power steering pulley (maybe others) it seems odd to rely on a press fit (requiring special tools for removal and install) and proper torque of bolts vs. a keyed pulley that would work better?

Maybe later LS engines have keyed pulleys, and I think you can have this modification done, but still. Not sure I'm willing to risk overtorquing the bolt at this point. Maybe once it's in and has some miles on it, I'll come back and recheck it.

Made some progress on the engine bay today, took the day off to work on the car, after a long week of other stuff going on, and not getting much done in the garage. Was a nice cool day, so had the garage doors open and the music blaring.

Cutting out the engine bay gussets was fun, but not really. I picked up some Harbor Freight spot weld drill bits and they were working OK at first, but they didn't last as long as I hoped. The teeth on them would crack and pretty soon become useless. I've gone through about 5 of them so far in the engine bay and on the interior engine tunnel gussets. I've still got most of the driver's side gusset to drill out, so I may go back and buy more, or try another spot weld kit online...

Here is one engine bay gusset removed and found the remnants of a small woodland creature's meal
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300238

On the first one on the passenger's side, I tried to drill out spot welds where I could, and did some cutting from the bottom. Seemed a bit laborious. On the driver's side, I did the spot welds from the top and was able to bend it down and then could make the cuts from the top.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300238

I used a combination of DeWalt 4" grinder with cutting wheel, and air-powered cutting wheel (underpowered) and body saw (also underpowered). There are some situations where a powerful electric grinder with cutting wheel get a bit sketchy, such as tight spaces where a false move could kick the grinder back. I'd rather not go there.

Mostly cleaned up on both sides. Waiting to do the interior gussets/braces before I slit the tunnel open.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300238

The parts of the car that can now see sunlight look in alot better shape than the ones in the Flyin Miata guides, which look very rusty.

You may recognize this as an FBody power steering pump bracket. To take a break from standing in the engine bay, I decided to work on some bracketry for the pump and alternator.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300474

Started with a foundation of 3/16" bar in a triangular pattern to match the bolt holes of the oem bracket
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300474

I bolted the pieces in place one by one for an accurate fit. I overlapped the pieces and used by spring loaded punch to scratch a cutline. Used the cutting wheel and my benchtop grinder/wire wheel to fine tune the pieces and tacked them together.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300474

Bracket cleaned up a bit and bolted into place
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300474

And what I realized is that Fbody pump makes for a pretty tight fit if I want to align the belt with my Corvette (shorter) style crank damper.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300474

Closeup of the tight fit... basically the reservoir is up against the head. If I cut out part of the 3/16" bracket thickness I'll have some breathing room.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300474

I'm motivated to make this work, b/c I dropped some coin on this nice pump and pulley awhile back.
Turn One

The existing pump that came with the engine arrived with a cracked pulley, and then found out the threads you need to engage with on the pump shaft to remove the pulley were all f'd up. Basically the pump was unusable. The Turn one pump is setup for track racing where Fbody pumps apparently have an issue with overheating and eating themselves.

I'm going to put this side project to the side for a bit until the engine is mounted, so I can see how much clearance I'll have with the hood of the Miata.

With the power steering bracket on hold, I decided to do some more fab work on the alternator bracket. You can apparently have the aluminum bracket milled down to line up with your crank pulley of choice. I decided to try and go DIY on this as I cracked open my first beer of the night.

If you take the oem bracket out of the equation and just bolt up the alternator...
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300681

there is a bit of a clearance issue
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300681

The solution is to allow the bottom of the alternator to swing away a bit for clearance.

If I add about 5mm of washers I had laying around from a Wilwood brake kit on my previous car, I was able to get the alternator shimmed to where the pulleys lined up and also kept the alternator in place where I could work with it.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300681


I started at the bottom bolt with a new bracket. I'm going to add some gusseting to this one to strengthen it.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300681


This is where I left this project for the night.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300681


I will be adding a bracket for the front of the top bolt and tie it into the 3rd mounting location used by the oem location. I'll also add a bracket for the mount at the back of the alternator.

I decided to wrap up the night with some seam welding on the passenger side door frame

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300872

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300872

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1480300872

As I worked my way up the A pillar, there is some sealant or something where the top pieces of sheet metal meet. It was very gooey and I think it was creating a problem for the welds to set. Got alot of snap crackle pop. Maybe it was the goo in there, so I might try to remove some of it and try again.

I'm also going to seam weld alot of the engine bay, so I started a bit on removing seam sealer before I called it quits for the night.

I've had some free time this week to get alot done. I'm about done with the seam welding, though I think it needs a bit of cleanup in some areas. Not a surprise but the seam sealer has made it frustrating to get good clean welds in tight areas w/out contamination and crappy welds.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1475675026

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1475675026

After a few hours of that I decided to turn to the tunnel itself. I still had the driver's side interior tunnel gusset to go and ran out of working spot welder removers. These Harbor Freight jobbers did OK at first Spot Weld Cutter - 3/8" Spot Weld Cutter Drill Bit but if you overwork them or snag on a piece of steel the wrong way - the teeth shatter. Once one tooth goes, the rest are not far behind. I think I went through about 4 and the fifth one is still intact.

So I turned to Amazon for something different. I didn't get to work this set over too much, but it did a quick, clean and effortless job. These are not going to crack like the HF cutters, and don't seem to jump out of their place like the HF set. Bonus: they are made in USA. Just follow the directions and start slow to let the centering drill bit take a set, and then you can push on it. The centering bit is spring loaded, and just gets out of the way to let the spot weld cutter do its job.

Once the gussets are removed I could make a cut where the tunnel meets the firewall. I followed the FM instructions here. Then hammer back the tunnel til it matches the measurements in the instructions.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1475675212


Then you can start to fold the firewall back over the tunnel portion. The measurements I took seemed to indicate that you can just fold the firewall back along the seam - on an NB Miata, and in my pictures, this is where the bare metal meets the undercoated part.

Happy with the measurements I wasted not time in bolting up the V8 Roadsters subframe.

Quick story on this one - I found this subframe kit on Craigslist back in December 2015 - when this build was just a twinkle in my eye (lol). I had setup a Craigslist search for LS V8 swap related parts, and this one came into my Inbox at 11:30p one night as I was heading off to bed. Sent the seller a quick email. The following day I met the guy just across the bridge from Philadelphia to New Jersey at a State Police barracks and took delivery. $1000 cash - which is about half what you pay for these new, subframe, rails, motor mounts, trans brace, bolts, etc... It was at that point I knew I had to do this swap.

Last night I was able to fit up the engine. I had some issue getting the motor mounts to line up with motor mount points on the subframe. The motor mounts are upside down I realized later, but you can see how far off one side is from bolting in. The driver's side motor mount bolt is already fitted.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1475675350

So what's going on here? Not sure.. I did some research on different motor mounts for the LS, and it seems I have what others are using - Energy Suspension brand. The steel plates that bolt to the engine block seem to be sorta DIY - not sure if they are the FM or V8R pieces. I lifted the engine up, removed everything, flipped the mounting plates over, installed the motor mounts the correct way and installed some washers as spacers until I had the right spacing. I ended up with 3 washers on each side of the engine and the alignment was spot on.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1475675350

Not sure if others think this is a good long term solution? Should I tack weld the washers together so they don't move around too much?

I'm also not very happy that I had to grind a bit of the block where the bolts connect the motor mount to the mounting plate. I'll clean up these areas to smooth them out and not create any stress risers and then repaint.

All in all a good night as the motor sits nicely in the bay. No clearance issues below, or near the tunnel.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1475675350

Motor came back out and will wait in the wings while I finish welding the tunnel.

Earlier in the week I also took delivery of my T56. I had been looking around on Craigslist and ebay but never really saw much. My goal was to stay around the $2k mark, and find one that had evidence of a recent rebuild - or a cheap core I could send to Tick Performance and have rebuilt.

So as you may know, the T56 is getting to be a rare commodity. I discovered some time ago that LS1Tech.com is a great resource for buying and selling parts. I would highly recommend anyone to sign up for an account and just start searching - you will be sure to find something.

I got in touch with a guy who was selling a LT style T56 (same gears as LS style, but from an earlier Camaro). He is a drag racer and rebuilds his own transmissions. He'd rebuilt this with the Tick Stage 2 kit Tick Performance Level 2 Upgraded T56 Rebuild (600RWTQ) for 93-02 Camaro & Firebird - Tick Performance, Inc.. He also cleans and blasts the case as well so it should look almost new.

He was selling for about the price of the Tick Stage 2 rebuild by itself - which sounded like a great deal. Only issue is that I would need to source the parts to make the T56 an LS engine compatible trans. This means changing what's called the "front plate" which is the plate/cover on the trans where the input shaft mounts and where the bellhousing bolts to. I would also need an LS style input shaft - which protrudes from the trans and takes the power from the engine.

I called around and found out that T56 parts are "like gold" as many places described. There didn't seem to be much of a used market for these parts either. I did find some good deals on new parts on ebay and Amazon on these parts. So it drove up the price of the whole trans a bit, but I'm getting new parts and the seller said he would put them all together for me at no charge. He sent me the rebuilt trans and the old LT style T56 front plate and input shaft, which I have posted for sale on LS1Tech and Craigslist.

Around the time the T56 was on its way to me, I found a killer deal on a shifter on LS1Tech.com. This B&M shifter was $100 shipped - it sells new for $237 - https://www.amazon.com/45052-Precisi.../dp/B000CIKC7G. The guy had also tapped it for a plug that you can remove and use to fill the trans with fluid - probably easier than finagling a hose to fill it. I got the shifter in its original box, with all the hardware and looking like it was in new shape. Couldn't wait to mount it up and test it out.

I also ordered up a set of Flyin Miata V8 headers which should arrive Monday. At this point I'm figuring I'll be doing my own exhaust.

Also decided to go with a cast aluminum alternator mounting kit that should work with my Corvette style damper. I'll still need to figure out a DIY solution to the power steering pump, but I'm confident I can make that work.

wish I could see the pictures?

I'm going to give up on trying to link to Google photos. They appear to work when I first post them, but it seems that embedding pics is not supported, and Google catches on to their images being embedded and blocks them.

So I tried Photobucket and that seemed to work at first, but appears to be a complete sh!t show :squintfinger: as I was getting upload timeouts and now the album won't refresh with the new pics. So that will be a work in progress.

Sorry, hate to make this about the images. Hopefully they work now one way or another.

Trick I learned from a millwright to remove seamsealer
 

Hello pj_mcgarvey

Seam sealer defiantly is a pain in the A$$. If you have an oxy / acetylene set up you can light up an Carbon rich flame and heat up the seam you want to weld. Once the seam sealer starts to drip / burn just trigger the oxygen lever and blow the sticky goo out of the seam. This leaves a bit of carbon behind but no problems welding that up. Be a bit diligent and don't pour the heat to things, just enough to get the seam sealer melting / burning and use the oxygen to blast out the goo. I then use a small wire brush and some lacquer thinner to clean stubborn parts.
everything will weld up like a charm as the carbon left behind doesn't affect the weld quality. Give it a try, I think you will be surprised.
Just a thought that worked well for me on many a previous Mustang Drag Car builds.
Dean0

nice job sorting out the photos. The washers on the engine mounts kind of concerns me. I wonder if they are the correct mounts? Thanks for the tip on the seam sealer removal.

I felt the same way, so I looked into a bit and took some measurements. I don't think they are the correct mounts - and b/c I bought the subframe kit 2nd hand, I'm on my own. I did find what I think is the proper mount from Summit Racing, and they should arrive tomorrow. I have the next 4 days off so I'll be posting a number of updates this weekend.

I also had the clearance issue with the mount plates but I chose to trim the bolt flush with the back of the plate rather than the gusseting of the block.

I wish I had thought of some other solutions, rather than rush into trying to get the engine mounted up. Grinding down the bolt head might weaken it. Some kits have a recessed screw head to clear the block in the right place.

The motor mount situation didn't really improve with ordering new mounts from Summit.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/ENS-3-1148G

Based on the info provided on the mounts I ordered, they should have had a 1-3/4" spacing from the mounting side to the center of the bolt hole. The web site shows it as well
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476327669

and I called the Summit tech line to confirm before I ordered and talked to someone who confirmed these are the GM OEM measurements for mounts going back years. When I got the mounts however, it was a different story. I specifically asked if the measurements were from the back of the mount, which I was told "Yes". However if you factor in the backing plate being about 1/4" thick (pretty beefy) it could add up to 1.75". So great, but not what I needed.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476327669

So the measurements were not correct, but the mounts I think were also missing something. The back of the mount has a bump in it, which is supposed to fit into a gap in the mounting plate. The mounting plate included with the kit did not have any gaps, it was just a solid plate. I'm thinking something is really missing here. The mounting plate that I got with my kit has a few of these gaps that line up with this bump in the mount. The mount part numbers on what I already had and the ones I got from Summit were the same.

You can see the 1/8" or so bump in the back of the mount
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476327669

You'll see in these instructions, that the same bump is there, but it says that the preload plate "must be used". So where is it on the mounts I ordered?
https://static.summitracing.com/glob.../ens-17247.pdf

Enough about that, I have some mounts to get working. I decided to move forward with modifying the mounts I had with some spacers. I took the 3 washers and tacked them together to start
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476327669

Then I tacked some bolts where the motor mount will attach to the backing plate. This will just make it easier to bolt up as I'll just need to thread on the nut and tighten it.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476327669

No pics, but I welded in the spacers to the backing plate so they won't move around. Cleaned it up and painted it. I will post some pics later of this setup.

I decided to drop the idea of a DIY alternator bracket. Once I figured I'd need to get the spacing correct, and then work in the belt pulley as part of it, I wasn't sure if it made sense to fab it up myself and make it sturdy enough to not flex, etc. I looked around online and found an affordable bracket kit that was designed for the Corvette crank pulley spacing.

This kit could be found on ebay and Amazon from ICT Billet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01601ODQY

Here it is installed. perfect fit and alignment, and saves a bit of weight and improves the looks a bit.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476329798

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476329798

With that problem solved, I started some work on the power steering bracket. That is just about complete so I'll post finished pics later.

I also decided to bolt up the starter I had purchased. This particular start is new and shiny, as you can see, but also about an inch shorter than the stock FBody starter, and will fit with the Flyin Miata headers.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476329798

This starter was dirt cheap from Amazon, and is technically a truck starter. This was a hot tip I picked up on these forums I think some time ago
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094JHBNM

The truck starter, and maybe other new LS starters are also stronger where the mounting bolt passes through. On the FBody starter there has been proven to be a weak spot where there is less metal where the bolt passes through. This part can break off, or it can take a piece of the block with it. NOT GOOD.

Here's a pic I linked from a post on LS1Tech where you can see the broken piece of the block attached to the starter.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476329798

My FBody starter and new hotness side by side:
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476329798

You can see the weaker side of the FBody starter (on right, bottom).
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476329798

So you'll need a longer bolt as well:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005OV3RTG

No pics of it mounted up, but I'm also waiting for a cover plate for the bottom of the trans to hid the gap where the Fbody stock oil pan would have covered up. I may need to remove the starter again and then reinstall. I will also make a heat shield out of some leftover stuff I have.

Work on the tunnel is progressing, and very tedious and tiring. I was not happy with how the cuts I made to remove the gussets looked. I decided to make up some patch panels to tie everything together. I had welded in the Flyin Miata provided thick brackets to replace the removed gussets. On top of those, the patch panels were tacked in.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476330757

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476330757

These will need some more work to finish, but I was having trouble with my tack welds burning through the 20 gauge sheet metal I had laying around. I'm using .030 wire on my MIG welder, and so I might pick up a small roll of .025 wire from Home Depot this week so I can better control the heat I'm putting into the panel. I also need to pick up some more metal cutting and grinding discs for my Dewalt grinder. I quickly burned through the ones I had been using.

Last thing was a quick mod I made to my welding helmet. Working in the engine bay I can never seem to get light where I need it so I can see what the heck I'm welding.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1476330757

When this doesn't work I've taken to holding an LED flashlight with my left hand, and making some quick tacks with my right hand. What's cool is the LED flashlights don't set off the welding helmet auto dimming feature the way an incandescent or fluorescent light does.

Curious what others have done about the T56 reverse lockout feature. This is something I just recently realized, but want to think about as I get closer to putting in the T56.

The lockout feature is supposed to prevent you from grabbing reverse while the car is in motion. This can apparently happen if you are shifting from 6th to 5th. If you push the lever too far over the right, it can engage reverse. Sounds crazy, but apparently it can happen. Let your imagination do the rest.

Solutions seem to be:
- Leave the engine lockout solenoid disconnected and just muscle it into reverse when needed.
- Remove lockout spring so you there is no resistance to putting it in reverse when you need, but would allow the lever to go in reverse at any speed.
- Wire the solenoid into the brake light switch so it's energized when you step on the brake pedal, such as when you are putting it into reverse to back the car up. Seems reasonable, but then I thought what about if you are heel/toe downshifting? You might have the brake on and be downshifting into 5th at the same time. Since my car will see some track work, I thought this wasn't a good idea. I'm sure it has worked just fine for others.
- Wire the solenoid into the ECU/PCM so it reads the VSS (vehicle speed) sensor. Not looked into this much, but would be the most OEM solution. Not going to rule this one out yet.
- Wire in a timer http://www.accutach.com/t56-reverse-...-lockout-timer to open the solenoid long enough to engage reverse. Would bypass needing to wire into the ECU. Maybe good if you don't have the LS ECU in your particular build, but do have a T56.
- Wire in a push button or switch on the dash so you can hold it down to open the lockout feature.

Curious what others are doing/have done.

The other thing I need to think about soon is ECU/PCM. I know there are some things I will need to have done to it before I can make the engine start.

I'm looking for opinions on who to send the ECU to,

and

What features did you guys enable/disable? One specific thing would be the O2 sensors. I think I want to run two of them, one for each bank, which would mean removing the two that are normally after the cat.

Did you just weld in a o2 sensor bung into the exhaust after the headers?

I haven't completed my build yet, so I don't have first hand experience on shifting, and my other 6 speed has reverse in the bottom right. I would think the issue would be more prevalent on a 4th to 5th shift, and accidentally over travelling to the right. I would think it'd be natural to shift from 6th to 5th since it's straight vertical motion. This is why my simple solution was going to be using the brake light power. I decided to use Megasquirt for an ECU, so I'm just going to use a spare output, and have it VSS related.

I was planning on just wiring to the brakelight as well. The reverse on the T56 takes a fair bit of force to get it over that far, I wouldnt be too concerned with a reverse miss-shift.

But another option is to instead wire it to a manual push button or switch. ie: A/C switch, cruise control on switch. Or even just a custom one placed inconspicuously. Just a thought!

Yeah, I overlooked a simple push button on the dash - on the left hand side of the dash of course (b/c your right hand is moving the lever). Plenty of blank spaces on my dash to do that. Thanks

A friend used this service for his LS (non Miata) swap. $75 seems reasonable, and his list of changes seems complete and detailed.

Programming Services

So here are the items he needs and my responses:

>>>Remove VATS
>>>Remove oil level sensor

4.8/5.3/6.0 LS Engines: Is your fuel rail a returnless type, (using corvette regulator) or does it have a vacuum referenced fuel pressure regulator?
>>>Returnless fuel rail using Corvette regulator

4.8/5.3/6.0 LS Engines: Is your throttle electronic? (DBW - Drive By Wire) or is it mechanical (DBC - Drive By Cable)
>>>DBC

Transmission Type & Year: I can disable automatic trans diagnostics if you wish to use a TH350, TH400, 700R4 ect. Please read on below for info about the Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) Also please let me know if you will run a MANUAL transmission, this is to ensure proper idle control.
>>>Manual/T56 (LT style, 96 Camaro)

Rear Axle Ratio: see info below for 'Tire Size or Height'
>>>3.27

Tire Size or Height When using electronic transmission, this info is only needed if you need a calibrated speed sensor signal output to run a stock type speedometer. I can program the PCM in most cases to output the proper speed signal to use the stock speedometer in 88+ GM Trucks, Jeeps, etc, about anything with electronic speedo from factory. Most of the aftermarket speedometers are programmable, and the output from the PCM does not need to be exact.
>>>225/50-15 - will be using Dakota Digital

Remove Emissions? (this includes EGR, AIR Injection, EVAP System, Rear Oxygen Sensors on 1996+) You may choose to keep EGR but remove the rest. Let me know and I can keep what you want. Typically If you say remove emissions, I remove them all. Keep in mind, I only disable the diagnostic test the PCM performs on these components. If you keep them hooked up, they will still function, with exception to EGR. EGR operation changes ignition timing, so If I disable it, it will not function at all.)
>>>Remove all emissions, only keep two oxygen sensors

Remove Computer Controlled A/C? (this is to delete the computer controlled a/c functions. If you have aftermarket A/C unit, or using original A/C wiring from you're vehicle, you do not need the computer controlled A/C. If you wish to use computer controlled A/C, all sensors, switches, etc from the vehicle the engine came out of will have to be used. Also, you do not need an A/C idle up, the engine will detect the load on the engine and adjust idle controller to maintain idle speed.)
>>>Car will not have A/C initially, may add it later. How should I handle this if I add it later?

Is this an Engine Swap, or original Engine/Vehicle. (some things I disable in the computer has to do with the PCM communication with other devices in the original vehicle. If PCM is staying in original vehicle, its important I know this.)
>>>Engine swap into a 99 Miata. Any suggestions?

Mass Air Flow Sensors (MAF can be removed from most vehicles if required, however I recommend using it if at all possible to improve drivability) LT1 vehicles had two different size mass airflow sensors. The Caprice and Camaro units are different size. Also 98-02 Camaro/Trans Am LS1 used a 3 wire sensor. Truck 4.8,5.3,6.0 all used a 5 wire sensor. Yet there is also a difference between Truck and VAN 4.8,5.3,6.0's. So if picking parts from different applications, keep this in mind, and LET ME KNOW, programming is different for each type of mass airflow sensor.
>>>Will be keeping OEM MAF from 98 Camaro (LS1)

Cooling Fan Controls I typically enable cooling fan control with basic on/off points based on stock engine thermostat temps. It will not hurt a thing to have the control there, but not used. If you use a lower then stock thermostat, let me know and I will adjust the temperatures accordingly.
>>>Using stock thermostat, keep stock temps

VSS - If using a non electronic trans, You should KEEP a vehicle speed sensor regardless of what transmission type you use. The PCM needs to know if vehicle is moving. Without the speed sensor, you can suffer from reduced fuel economy, reduced power, and idle problems. There are a few options for speed sensors on the transmissions with cable drive output. View this link at Dakota Digital website. I have used Dakota Digital SEN-4160 with good success. This is a 8000 pulse per mile sensor, that will allow cable speedometer hookup. (SEN-4160 WILL NOT WORK WITH DRIVE BY WIRE CRUISE CONTROL, You must retro-fit a higher pulse sensor if you wish to use cruise control with drive by wire.) I can program most any PCM to accept any # of speed pulses. (1996, 1997 Black Box Vortec PCM will not accept 8000 pulse input) Also check out V8 conversion manuals, parts for V8 S10, Datzun Z, Jaguar, Chevy TPI & TBI, Colorado, Astro Van V8, Volvo 200 & 700 for other speed sensor options. (Must output a SINE wave signal, or A/C Voltage)
>>>Keep VSS

I used him too just to get my basic working like VATS and removal of two of the O2 sensors, etc.

Honestly he did everything I needed, but he was not a great communicator, and looking back I wish I would have just put that money toward an HP tuners setup. Oh well, you live and you learn. I don't do much tuning on my car, but I'd love to be able to watch some additional parameters on my car, trend some more data.

Ben tuck in Facebook cleaned up mine for $60
Can't beat the price

https://m.facebook.com/groups/418634..._comment_reply

Continuing the fun from last time. My 41 year old body is starting to take a toll from the fast pace I think I've set. I didn't realize how much contorting, and gyrations it would take for me to finish all of the seam welding and tunnel mods. Also wondering if the repeated exposure to the welding arc (I'm using a welding helmet of course!) is creating some "welding fatigue".

Anyway, I need to head off on a short business trip which also gave my back some time to recover. Back at it again with the white vans:

I thought that with all the time I was spending in the garage lately I'd open up a full time inspection shop. I will be sole owner, head mechanic, trash guy, sales dept, and the top repeat customer... lol. I'd been watching these on ebay for awhile but finally decided to just bid on one
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1477427995

Got the spacer plate from FM that will block off the opening at the bottom of the trans where the Fbody oil pan used to go.https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1477427995

Flipped the water pump outlet towards the engine so it wouldn't cause any issues during the reinstall, and b/c it will be pointing that way. Noticed the lack of any attempt to ease coolant flow
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1477427995

Few minutes with a grinder
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1477427995

Applied some seam sealer to the engine bay. Went a little heavier on the spots around the tunnel where it was cut open and may also get more dirt/moisture.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1477427995

Used this seam sealer: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Q0ZQGK


Hold a moment while I wait for PhotoBucket of Junk to allow me to function again... :pissed:

Holy seam-sealer batman!

Also...... damnnnnnnnnnnnnn Daniel!

Did you do a test fit with engine/subframe, header etc before you finished up everything on the tunnel/firewall?? I know thats come back to bite some people in the ass later on. Gas pedal clearance on the drivers side, passengerside head to firewall clearance, and clearance of bellhousing bolts to trans tunnel are all important to look at.

Otherwise great job! You are moving at a pace that makes my 26yr old self feel slow!

Got some matching spray paint from AutomotiveTouchup.com so I could cover the seam sealer, I hope one rattle can will be enough. I used about one tube of seam sealer for what you saw above. I have another that will be used for the interior of the car which is almost done.

Next step was to begin installing the brake lines and master cylinder/booster. You will probably have a much harder time getting these installed once the engine is installed. I decided to do some DIY heat shielding using some heat shield wrap I had from other projects.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1477430285

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1477430285

Routed the lines like so, after doing some bending and tweaking. You'll need to straighten the line as it comes down on the passenger side and try to keep it tight to the firewall and frame rail.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1477430285

I used the other end of an adjustable wrench to apply leverage to the right spot on the line and bend it back straight. You can also do this bare hands, but it gets tiring.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1477430285

The driver's side line just needed a small bit of bending to stay tight to the frame rail. On the passenger side, as I got the bends closer to the connection to the flexible rubber line, I approximated how much line I needed and just cut it off and reflared it. That's assuming you have the tool to do this, which I already did. You could also work in reverse and screw the line into the pass. side connection and with that holding still, continue to bend the line where you need to and just "use up" the extra line up along the firewall and not have to make any cuts.

So in the last couple weeks, disaster struck a little bit (but it will be all better!). As I was welding the tunnel closed, and generating lots of hot metal and sparks, apparently one of them got inside the cabin - probably through the gaps I was welding shut. A small fire started. I'd gotten accustomed to putting out small fires on the dry leaves that were now covering the floor of my garage, and spazzing out as bits of hot metal "marbles" got into my shoes and pants... but this one caused some damage.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1477430885

I never fully removed the engine harness, just pulled it away from the inside of the firewall. Figured I'd cut some corners. So I think the fuzzy insulation on the floor of the cabin ignited it but the plastic wire insulation and some connections are what was really burning. The flames were about 18" high as I grabbed my fire extinguisher and gave it a couple shots.

Damn.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1477430885

So right in the middle of the harness, it's all cooked. Could have been worse of course, and I was glad there wasn't more damage. Also glad I put my extinguisher mounted up on the pillar that separates my garage doors - and not in a cabinet or drawer somewhere. 15 years it sat there and was never used.

Luckily there is plenty of harnesses on ebay for my year car so I've already got one to replace that's in even better condition. I'll just transfer over the markings on where it will mount back to the car, and reconnect any wires I had added for my gauges, etc. No big deal, but a lesson learned.