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Perhaps Montego Blue Mica is the color if it’s a factory color. I have one the same year that I currently use as my weekly airport shuttle car. (It’s a 1.8 Automatic and the exact opposite of my white ‘94, I will say that...). Your donor looks great.
Cleaned up new rear subframe and diff. Removed old one and got this shoved up there. Tackled this first because I knew it would be easy and give me a confidence booster.
In my last 302, I had fueling issues when it got hot. Not sure what the issue was, but I was planning a robust fuel system for this one. I believe the in tank pump was a weak point. Once the fuel got hot, the pump got hot and it’s performance went down. To solve this I was going to run an external pump like I did on my LS6 RX-7. For that car I ran a large pump and pulled the fuel from a bottom sump I created. I was planning on adding a sump to the Miata tank, I got a good surprise when i dropped the rear subframe. The tank already has a sump. It also has a drain plug there. The plan is to now thread in an AN fitting where the drain plug goes and pull fuel from there. It’s a 10x1.25 plug, so need to start looking for the correct fitting. Drained old fuel and stunk up the shop. Lol.
Started re-routine brake lines and removing emissions stuff. Cleaned everything and painted flat black. I like leaving all wires in until I get it running and then slowly remove what is left over.
Opened the tank to remove old fuel pump. WOW! Full of rust and nastiness. Had to drop entire rear subframe and remove tank to clean it.
Scraped as much as I could and pressure washed the inside. I then filled it with a WD-40 rust dissolver. It’s loaded in the back of my truck and I’ll let it slosh around for a few days then pressure wash again.
While the tank is soaking, tackled the front subframe. I had an old modified one that was damaged to use as a template. Looks like right side is boxed, and exhaust clearance was added to both sides. Lined them next to each other, made cut lines and broke out the plasma cutter. Welded it up (I’m not a great welder) and gave it some paint. I just need to determine spacing and height for engine mounts. I cut old ones out to reuse.
What a mess. Time to get to work. Think I have most of it sorted thanks to notes from topdownfun. It’s a 97 Miata and a 94 mustang. Using the CCRM so trying to incorporate that.
Initial test fit of modified subframe went well. I had doubts about fabricating and welding in engine mounts. I took my time and measured about a 100 times. Everything looks good. The slots in the engine tabs should give me good front and rear adjustments. Time to finish moc up and lower car over it for clearance and tras tunnel mods.
So I had everything in line to test fit the motor, but decided to time the distributor first. I am so glad I did. I could not get the motor to turn a full revolution. Something was causing it to bind. I know everything was good a month ago. Removed valve cover and loosened all rockers. Still binds. Must be crank hitting oil pan. Removed oil pan. All good. Only thing left was to remove manifold and heads. There was the issue. Apparently Mud Dobbers decides to fly down the the intake and make nests. The dirt was preventing the pistons from going full stroke. The engine was inside a shop, but apparently not covered well enough. Mother Nature got me! So now I’m practically rebuilding my motor. SOB!
You’re really making progress. Lookin’ good.
Is evap going to dtivers side? It’s a good idea, I’d like to move mine there so I have more room to box in the air filter to make a cold air intake.
Also, the lever on that rad cap will probably make contact with your hood. I had to use a regular flat top cap on mine.
Condenser, radiator, and fans are in. Found some radiator hoses that fit. Getting so close. I have some power steering connections on the way so I can fab my own AN6 lines. I will hopefully get those soon so I can try to start it up this weekend.
