tbone heller

I doubt it. I am sure that some type of modification would have to be preformed. There is not a whole lot of room for the extra crankshaft pulley. Maybe if you used a set-up for a 94-95 Mustang because they have shorter water pumps.

speed junky 302

Good to know thanx

Mach1460

Here's a rough breakdown of a build on the cheap:

Kit: $4K
Not-so-nice donor Miata: $1500
running used mustang engine with accessories: $150 to $300
Used criagslist T-5: $150-$300
T-bird rear and half shafts (you pull): $100
Exhaust work (steel, not stainless): $1000
cut down mustang driveshaft: $50
electronics (ebay): $200

All the above gets you a running Ford V8 Miata with stock brakes, a pretty antiquated suspention, no roll-over saftey and questionable reliability. I've found the best bang for the buck is to get a already modified Miata (turbo, SC, etc) and make some money selling off the parts you don't need. It is also advisable to get a 1.8 donor as opposed to a 1.6 as the engine is worth a lot more. It's also advisable to get a donor with a limited slip diff as that can be sold for quite a bit. If I were on a budget (as I was my first time out) I would start with the big $$$ part, the kit. Once you save the coin for that and sit it in a garage somewhere you HAVE to eventually finish it. Since that purchase is almost half the total cost you'll also have the satisfaction of knowing you're almost half way their. Save the actual domor car purchase for last.

-Jason

-Jason[/QUOTE]

So a guy can use the tbird half shafts? Somewhere I was reading that we have to have modified axles.. something about Factory five's cobra kits axles? But If the tbirds/cougars work as is thats awesome!

cvx_20

The kit includes axles. If you don't use the kit, get the axles from Factory Five. I recall they're like $250 per set shipped. Pretty cheap, but they work. You still have to deal with the hubs; if you can get the Miata hubs broached, that's one way. Another is to modify the Tbird hubs to the same dimensions as the Miata. They're actually very close. At that point you can consider a 5-lug conversion. Or not.

Mike

Mach1460

good to know, I think the 5 lug swap would be cool but I'm aiming for total sleeper. Most wouldnt even notice, the wheel choices would be better, ford probe front spindles right?

cvx_20

Ford Probe rear hubs, Miata spindles. With spacer. I used RX7 front hubs. Someone else used the Probe hubs, I forget who. Very similar effort involved, as I recall. Probably more Probes in the junkyards.

Mike

tneyman

do you have a part # for the axle shafts,can not find anything on there website.

cvx_20

Sorry, don't have a part number, all I remember is that they were the ones that had the 18" axle bars and they were approx $125.00 each, with CV joints.

Mike

cvx_20

Checked with a guy who has talked to them recently, there is no part number, ask for the ones that are 29.5" overall including CV's. There is a shorter version for the spline drive hubs that measures 27" overall.

Mike

tneyman

are those axles,for a 7.5 differental

cvx_20

Actually, they may work for a 7.5, but the proven application uses an 8.8.

Mike

tneyman

do you know,if the 7.5 axles,are the same as the 8.8 axles,the 7.5 axles,i have are 28 spline.i want to buy,the factoryfive axles,but i do not know,if they will fit in my 7.5 axle housing.

gkbikers

I have a somewhat similar question regarding the axle splines of the 7.5 and the 8.8: Can the outer CV joints from the 7.5 (which are smaller than 8.8) be used with the 8.8 28 spline axles?

cvx_20

I have always maintained that the two were interchangeable. Tony LaBoy's cardomain site indicates otherwise, but what I don't understand is that for years, Ford solid axle 7.5 vs 8.8 have used the same 28 spline axles interchangeably. Which means the spider gears are 28 spline. Which to me says the CV axle assembly should be interchangeable as well. I know for a fact the outer CV splines that go into the hub are the same, but since I've never actually seen the 7.5 diff, I can't say for certain that the inner CV splines that fit the diff are the same from 7.5 to 8.8, although I believe they are.

I suspect my confusion really lies in the axle BARS. Given that the 7.5 outer CV is smaller, and the axle bar is smaller in diameter, I suspect that the spline on the bar used on the 7.5 is smaller than the bar used on the 8.8. Which is consistent with the photo on Tony's site.

So it appears to me that the Factory Five CV axle assemblies could be used with either the 7.5 or 8.8 diff. But the Factory Five axle asemblies only come with the larger 28 spline CV's and larger axle bars. So the smaller outer CV's can't be used on the Factory Five bars. Which I guess answers a question

Isn't the real problem interference between the CV boot and the shock? I thought that was solved with compressed/smaller boots and/or moving the bottom shock mount.

Mike

gkbikers

Mike,

I've seen your site and your work, which is simply outstanding, by the way! However, I was thinking it would be good to keep the geometry of the Miata spindle uprights, so that's why I'm asking the questions. I have not run across a topic of "compressed or smaller boots". I'll have to research that.

Thanks,

Gary

cvx_20

Thanks for the compliment. Wait til you see the tubular subframe

Moving the bottom of the shock over a bit doesn't really affect the geometry. It does put the shock in a bit of a "bind" that some might find offensive. It strikes me that the rubber bushings would quickly acquire a "set" that would take any real strain off the shock.

The solution of having the 8.8 axle bar resplined to take the 7.5 outer CV is probably the cheapest way out. You can use the stock axle which is way too long anyway. Actually the cheapest way out is to have the axle bar resplined to take the Miata outer CV. Then you don't have to deal with the hubs. It would be interesting to know the strength difference between the Miata and 7.5 outer CV's.

Mike

gkbikers

Mike, you need to post up pics on your tubular subframe.

Regarding the Miata outer CV vs. the 7.5 CV, if I had a machine shop, I might try the Miata CV. However, since I would have to pay for the modified axles, I would probably stay safe with the 7.5 CV.

Thanks,

Gary

Meanestmiata

I know this is an old post but what do you do for the radiator? Mazda? Ford? Aftermarket? I'm assuming the much larger motor requires a larger or more efficient cooling system than a factory Miata

tneyman

i got lucky,a couple of weeks ago,i found a 96 exployer in the wrecking ward,so i pulled the heads,intake,throttle body,injectors,all for 129.00 dollars,good deal,i been looking for those heads for six months,hard to find,people must know about it,heads or engine,is always gone.

tbone heller

I used the radiator that came with the kit from Monster Miata. It was drop shipped direct from Saldana Racing. It is a very nice piece.

MRM331

I also run the Monster Miata kit radiator although I moved it forward enough recently that I could mount the kit's fans behind it as opposed to in front of it. The only sacrifices were the hood latch with I replaced with a set of aerocatches, the windshield washer bottle (only an issue with n ABS car) which I replaced with a small Nissan truck one that I mounted in the trunk, and the forward most air bag sensor which I'm pretty sure I could remount somewhere.

That, along with running Evan's waterless coolant, has made the car run very cool even with the AC on full tilt.

-Jason

Doege145

Is there anywhere I can get a wiring instructions on the ford 5.0 v8 swap on a 1990 Miata?

MRM331

Www.mccullyracingmotors.com

I have a link to my install directions live on the site since my last update (last night).

-Jason