T5 Clutch Adjustment
08-03-2015, 02:16 PM
#26
V8 Miata Fan
Thread Starter
5.0 Miata
The clamps are just the better Stainless Steel clamps that are sold for holding the rubber / silicone boost piping to the steel piping in a turbocharged application. I would try "LORDCO" or a Ricer Turbo Supplier, if it's a NO GO for you just shoot me a txt and the size of your exhaust pipe and I will dig through my supplies, may not be super shiny but I am sure I have a few, depending on your tubing OD.
Can defiantly hook a brother up!!
Very cool you were out for an hr, any takers off of the lights, lol.
Dean0
The clamps are just the better Stainless Steel clamps that are sold for holding the rubber / silicone boost piping to the steel piping in a turbocharged application. I would try "LORDCO" or a Ricer Turbo Supplier, if it's a NO GO for you just shoot me a txt and the size of your exhaust pipe and I will dig through my supplies, may not be super shiny but I am sure I have a few, depending on your tubing OD.
Can defiantly hook a brother up!!
Very cool you were out for an hr, any takers off of the lights, lol.
Dean0
Having issues with the fuel pressure right now. I checked it when I left home on my drive, 43 psi, exactly what my EFI system recommends. Started running rough after about 30 mins, pulled over checked the fuel pressure 22 psi. Shut it down, started up again and 64 psi. Me thinks I got a bad fuel pressure regulator. Can't find a replacement until tomorrow.
Den
08-05-2015, 12:34 PM
#27
I am back to square one. No matter how much I lengthen the slave rod I can't get the clutch to fully disengage. If I try to put in gear the car will start to roll as I put into gear. I have the rod on the pedal screwed all the way out. What am I doing wrong?
How much movement are you guys getting on your clutch fork? My total travel is about 3/4". That just doesn't seem like enough.
How much movement are you guys getting on your clutch fork? My total travel is about 3/4". That just doesn't seem like enough.
08-06-2015, 08:52 AM
#28
V8 Miata Fan
Thread Starter
I am back to square one. No matter how much I lengthen the slave rod I can't get the clutch to fully disengage. If I try to put in gear the car will start to roll as I put into gear. I have the rod on the pedal screwed all the way out. What am I doing wrong?
How much movement are you guys getting on your clutch fork? My total travel is about 3/4". That just doesn't seem like enough.
How much movement are you guys getting on your clutch fork? My total travel is about 3/4". That just doesn't seem like enough.
1. I had to shortened the clutch peddle pushrod by about 5/8ths of an inch. I then adjusted it so the pushrod just made contact with the master cylinder and then gave it another turn for a little pre-load.
2. I have a '94 T5z so my bellhousing is a little different but after re-aligning my clutch slave cylinder I put in the slave pushrod in and made sure that it was retracted fully into the slave cylinder. I then adjusted the slave pushrod so there was a few turns of preload on the clutch fork.
It turned out perfect for me. The clutch is much better, very close to the stock 1.6 clutch. I'm sure I will have to fine tune it a little when the new clutch gets broken in.
Hope this helps...
Den
08-06-2015, 12:52 PM
#29
Just a thought. There may be something else at play here. I have seen before when the pivot point of the fork is heavily worn and it causes this. Basically not allowing the proper stroke. Also, reaching into the unlikely even more, maybe the fork is bent or disfigured in some way.
08-06-2015, 01:54 PM
#30
DING DING DING
WE HAVE A WINNER!!!
Den,
I screwed the rod all the way into the pedal and pulled the master cylinder. Sure enough, my pedal rod was too long. There was too much preload on the master not allowing for maximum stroke. I cut off 1/2" and reinstalled everything. I then screwed the rod toward the master and stopped as soon as I felt it touch the master and gave it another 1/2 turn. I bled everything and it now shifts smoother than ever and grabs harder than ever with zero slippage.
WE HAVE A WINNER!!!
Den,
I screwed the rod all the way into the pedal and pulled the master cylinder. Sure enough, my pedal rod was too long. There was too much preload on the master not allowing for maximum stroke. I cut off 1/2" and reinstalled everything. I then screwed the rod toward the master and stopped as soon as I felt it touch the master and gave it another 1/2 turn. I bled everything and it now shifts smoother than ever and grabs harder than ever with zero slippage.
08-06-2015, 04:47 PM
#31
V8 Miata Fan
Thread Starter
DING DING DING
WE HAVE A WINNER!!!
Den,
I screwed the rod all the way into the pedal and pulled the master cylinder. Sure enough, my pedal rod was too long. There was too much preload on the master not allowing for maximum stroke. I cut off 1/2" and reinstalled everything. I then screwed the rod toward the master and stopped as soon as I felt it touch the master and gave it another 1/2 turn. I bled everything and it now shifts smoother than ever and grabs harder than ever with zero slippage.
WE HAVE A WINNER!!!
Den,
I screwed the rod all the way into the pedal and pulled the master cylinder. Sure enough, my pedal rod was too long. There was too much preload on the master not allowing for maximum stroke. I cut off 1/2" and reinstalled everything. I then screwed the rod toward the master and stopped as soon as I felt it touch the master and gave it another 1/2 turn. I bled everything and it now shifts smoother than ever and grabs harder than ever with zero slippage.
Den
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