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Old 03-09-2018, 09:26 AM   #1  
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Default is it possible to do a V8 swap with no welding?

I've done a lot of car work. I've done engine replacements / bolt in engine swaps, I've rebuilt a transfer case, complete suspension bushing and spring rebuilds, basically all the mechanical stuff. My education is in electronics and computers, so wiring and electronics are no problem. However, I can't weld. I do know a guy in the next town that I could take an assembly to and have him weld it at his shop, but he's not going to come to my garage and get under my car to do it.

So I've been looking at Martin's Monster Miata kit for the 302 and watched Stacy David's Banshee project. It looks like the whole kit is bolt-on with the only welding required for the be the rear diff mounting.

What about a Getrag or 8.8 rear? Does the V8 Roadster kit require welding? Are there any bolt-in kits for the diff?

Is there any other welding that I've missed? I don't want to start a project and then get stuck halfway through because something needs to be fabbed to the chassis itself.
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Old 03-09-2018, 10:47 AM   #2  
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Getrag and 8.8 both need welding brackets on. The Getrag is very simple, the rear of the diff is mounted with a bolt-on bracket, then there are two little tabs that get welded for the front snout. The rear subframe would be easy to take to someone to have them weld it.

I'll let someone else comment on the Ford swaps as I don't have experience there, but all LSx swaps require welding in the engine bay. The V8roadsters is the most intrusive because you have to widen the transmission tunnel (though I've read that some have gotten the tunnel wide enough with a BFH). All kits require cutting out the gussets in the rear corners of the bay and welding support plates in their place. If you're interested, look up the Flyin' Miata V8 Instructions for more info on this.
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Old 03-09-2018, 12:47 PM   #3  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acedeuce802 View Post
Getrag and 8.8 both need welding brackets on. The Getrag is very simple, the rear of the diff is mounted with a bolt-on bracket, then there are two little tabs that get welded for the front snout. The rear subframe would be easy to take to someone to have them weld it.
Well that's definitely doable then. Thanks! I guess the real trick there is making sure the alignment is right when they do get welded.

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I'll let someone else comment on the Ford swaps as I don't have experience there, but all LSx swaps require welding in the engine bay..
As far as I can tell, the Ford swap just requires two clearance cuts and cosmetic plates welded on over those, but it looks like those could be pop riveted or bonded on.
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Old 03-09-2018, 01:17 PM   #4  
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You can mount the engine/trans first, take an angle measurement of the engine/trans, then take an angle measurement of a flat face on the rear subframe (or where the subframe mounts in the chassis when it's uninstalled). Then you'll know the diff pinion angle relative to the subframe mounting face.
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Old 03-10-2018, 07:49 AM   #5  
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I did the Ford swap using Martin's kit and a 7.5 diff. I mounted the engine/trans first and got an angle measurement. Then I temporarily hung the diff from the subframe using the rear bracket supplied with the kit. I bolted the front bracket to the diff with a few washers in between. I then set the pinion angle and marked the location of the front bracket on the subframe for welding. Then I removed the diff and the subframe and welded the bracket onto it. Once reinstalled, you can fine tune the pinion angle if necessary - I ended up removing a couple of washers to get mine perfect. You could take the subframe to a shop for the welding.
You may want to consider purchasing a mig welder, especially if you can find someone that can weld and would be willing to make a house call - that's what I did. That way you get a new tool (win) and you can a learn a new skill. After a fair amount practicing, I was able to make the exhaust myself.
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Old 03-10-2018, 02:48 PM   #6  
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Thanks guys!
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Old 03-15-2018, 09:09 AM   #7  
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I'm doing my LS swap and don't own a welder. I'm now almost complete (haha, it'll never really be done). I paid a friend to come in with his 110v welder and no gas to button back up the sheet metal around the tunnel and weld in reinforcements. I'll get him to come back shortly to weld in the diff bracket as well. Aside from those areas, that is really the only welding that I've needed to do and it can be accomplished quite easily as the welding part of it doesn't take very long.

I've been working on this on/off for over 2 years now. I'm mechanically inclined but this has been a massive learning experience as my initial timeline involved around 6 months.

If you're flexible with time and resources, go for it.
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Old 03-15-2018, 09:42 AM   #8  
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Thanks for the insight preluding.

I do intend to take a few years to enjoy working the project, be detail oriented and do everything right. The first step is finding that perfect car with a clean, rust free body and under $5k. That might take a few years in itself. I have some very specific things I'm looking for.

This one is more about the journey, than the destination.
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Old 05-08-2018, 09:15 AM   #9  
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Here you go.
Looks like an excellent candidate for a V8 swap.
Price is right.
https://www.v8miata.net/cars-sale-4/...e-roller-3305/
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