DanielDD

Well, I've looked intently for a month now and have been unable to acquire a suitable Miata for the V8 swap. Most of my issue has been my own indecision as to what constitutes a worthy car for me.

In the past I have owned 5 different Miatas, NA - NB - and NC. Initially I wanted an NB, but then I got picky. It had to be a 2001 or newer since I liked the front end and the interior better. I found an 2002 LS with 40K miles. I offered $7K and was turned down (they wanted $7.5K) - which was probably a good thing. With 40K miles, I would have probably just driven it for a couple of years before doing anything to the car.

Then I figured it would be better to get an NC since we really liked our last one, so I found one 600 miles away with 61K miles and well kept. I would have had to purchase a plane ticket to go get it but at the last moment, I decided I had to have a PHRT instead.

PHRT? Are you kidding me? Now we're talking $13K-$15K just to purchase a car that I'm going to completely dismantle the drivetrain and throw maybe another $20K into it? I think I have gone bonkers!

Clearly I don't know what I want, but I know I can't build anything unless I have a car to start with. Lately I'm thinking it might be best to start with an NA just because the total financial investment would be less and it would be a good learning opportunity. If this is going to be the first of subsequent builds (oh, sure) , I could start with an NA and then later on down the road, I could move up to an NB or NC for the next build. Okay - whether or not this is true depends on my ever changing mind…..

I swear, I don't know how my wife has lived with me all these years!

I've looked at auto trader, cars.com, miata.net and CL for a 1990-1997 Miata and the prices are all over the place. Most start at $2500 and some go for as much as $8K. Most of the lower priced early cars have dings and dents in the body work and horrible paint. I don't want to deal with body and paint issues. This is one thing I don't know how to do, so I figured the best thing is to find one that doesn't require body work, but that has proven a tough nut to crack.

I'm still looking. The best bet is to find something within an hour or so from me. I'm really done with traveling great distances for a car. Maybe something will pop up tomorrow or the next day, or next week or next month. What factors (color, year, interior, etc) made you choose the car you converted?

papabear

Check this one out on the TAC/TVR site. He works on Redstone so it's a local car.


http://www.teamtac.org/e107/e107_plu...opic.php?96064

SupaDupaSteve

Check if there are any local/state wide miata groups. There is here in FL and you could easily find a car for 3k with a clean body.

DanielDD

Thanks for the tip. Nice that it has a hardtop, but I'm not a big fan of black and it appears the owner has cut the rear bumper, which I would have to replace and the hood would have to be replaced. My last black car was a BMW and here in the deep south.. black is just too hot for me.

DanielDD

Yes, I've been watching various Miata clubs within a 2 or 3 hour drive. I made a reasonable offer on one but was turned down.

tbone heller

Buy a nice donor car & drive it for a while during the time that you are collecting parts, building rear end, transmission, & engine, upgrading brakes, & adding roll bar.

charchri4

I don't see what's bonkers about converting a $13K PHRT if you have the money to do it. There would be no less demand or value to the top converted than not converted and you would be out nothing. Consider the number of MSM builds that started with cars worth at least that and most folks would consider tearing down a speed far more bonkers than a PHRT. Put an auto in it and it would be even more desirable for resale.

BUT your focus is in the wrong place. if you are building the car to drive and love then do the PHRT (or whatever you love) and don't look back. If you are building the car to do anything other than enjoy (such as sell it) then you are bonkers and need to find a different hobby...

The bottom line is no matter what you start with you are going to end up with an elite car that is a one of a kind and an absolute joy to own. It's not A, B or C that makes the car epic it's the OMG factor and smiles per mile that does that so start with what you want to and don't waste one brain cell second guessing your gut instinct.

MRM331

Don't cheap out on the donor car. It is the single most important piece of the build that will determine after its done whether you can drive it every day or not. If you don't like the color, age, condition, interior, etc of the car with a 4 cylinder in it adding a V8 is not going to change how you feel about it.

I've only converted NA's so my model advice is specific to that generation although it may apply to others, I don't know. My advice is to get an automatic as your donor. I know it sounds nuts but hear me out:

Automatic Miatas are typically owned by non-enthusiasts and are not involved in the Miata "scene". This gets you several advantages:

1. It's impossible to autocross or track an automatic and stress the chassis. They are usually still pretty stiff as a result.
2. Being removed from the Miata community means that to price it they will simply go on KBB.com and use that value, not the "emotional value" most Miatas are priced at.
3. Many automatics are weekend cars that may rarely me used-this means garaged and cared for.
4. In an NA/NB all you will need to find that you would not need with a manual is a clutch pedal assembly.
5. Because automatics were rare the transmissions are actually worth a bit more than the 5 speeds.

Second bit of advice if you are looking at an NA: Do not buy a 1990 - 1993 for the following reasons:
1. The 1.6 engine is in very low demand. I still have two sitting around from 6 years ago. The 1.8 engine in the 1994 and up Miata can get you $400 or $500.
2. The 1.6 has a viscus rear which is not very popular. Many 1990-93 owners, even spec racers have upgraded to the 1.8 rears. As a result the 1.6 is worth nothing and the 1.8 can get you another $400 to $500.
3. 1994 and up miatas have more suspension bracing in the rear and brakes that "may" work for you without upgrading. You WILL need to upgrade 1990-93 brakes. This will add at least $400 to your build over a 1994 and up.

With the 1994 to 1997 NA donors I specifically recommend the 1994 model year if you can find one. 1994 is the only year with the above advantages and also a real oil pressure gauge (after 1995 it's just a idiot light that emulates a gauge). If you use a 1995 and up you'll want to retrofit a real gauge and sender in it which will cost you another couple hundred. If you go over 1996 you may have to comply with OBD2 emissions regulations which can be a big pain depending on where you live. In most states OBD1 cars are let off the hook.

Hope that helps,

-Jason

DanielDD

MRM331. The above information is quite invaluable. Thank you for providing such detailed insight! This certainly narrows the field for available NA cars.

That little bit about automatics was an eye opener. I pretty much avoided them up to this point as I felt the automatic transmission had no sellable value as a replacement part. Good tip on automatics being a less "stressed" car as well.

charchri4

Sorry about that I thought you had been through that thread where we talked about autos... https://www.v8miata.net/v8-miata-con...909/#post10828

DanielDD

Jim - I'm sure I reviewed it earlier, but at my age, it seems I tend to forget things. Especially after I sleep..