Meierznutz

I got suckered into dropping the engine trans in the car for a static display at a car show as a favor for a friend. He wanted to draw some attention to his shop and rented a booth at the show. It ended up costing me $600 as I had to grab tires for the car so I could mount the nice rims....can't go to the big dance in old sneakers right? I got to test fit the power train and mount the rad. Also installed the seats and column, the dash and gauges, and even tossed the fuel tank back there for giggles.

Meierznutz

I got to tinkering with the car a bit this week. I have been cleaning out the garage and finishing OTE projects (Other-than-Exocet). I got the Driver's side tubular control arms installed and started looking over the front drive set for the accessories. Since I a only running the alternator I would love to just run a small belt to the at from the crank and water pump. Unfortunately the water pump has to run in reverse so I will need to run a tensioner pulley and idler pulley to get the routing correct.
With the help from another builder I found a F-body bracket that will bolt the Alt low on the driver's side at the seam between the oil pan and block. With a couple spacers that are included with the kit, the F-body alt bolts right to the block and uses the Corvette water pump spacing for a tight fit.
I purchased some 1 1/4" od aluminum tubing from a local metal supply house that was running a sale.... $.65 a pound! Now I can bend the tubing to fit how I need it and use silicone boots to connect.
I did see that I either need to change the Racing Beat sway bar end links in for a set of Heim joint jobs or make 2 1/2" spacer to reach the LCA's.... I think I like the heim end links better at this point.
With winter coming fast and hard I will need to do some repairs to the plow rig before I can get back to Natalie, but pushing snow means I have the cash for Exo parts!

V8droptop

I really love those gauges, man. I've been wanting to do just a combo gauge in the Oil pressure gauge slot, still looking around for one. Reminds me of aircraft gauges or the likes, with oil pressure/temp in one gauge running side by side.

Car looks pretty great in your mock up, great choice on color scheme. I have a rather similar color scheme going on as well.

Meierznutz

I really like Speedhut's stuff. They have expanded their line since I ordered the first set of gauges for Nadine.
The "Quad Gauge" is a really nice solution to cleaning up the pod. With the set I had made I also get warning lights that can be custom set for when they come on, turn signal indicators, High Beam indicator, and a shift light all in 2-4" round spaces.
With Nadine's set I had to do a bit of trimming to get the stock temp/oil/fuel gauges to continue to work. I also lost the clear cover over the cluster and had to make lenses for each of the smaller gauges. CD covers worked well once my Pop stepped in and played with the lathe. It helps that he used to build prototype watches for Timex!

Meierznutz

Tonight's job was easy.... I sandblasted/primed/painted the Brake Booster. I used some gold metallic from VHT. It came out looking anodized! Not the same color as the chassis but a nice difference none the less. Pics when it's mounted...

Meierznutz

As promised....
Mocking up the fuel lines now. Starting on the passenger side fuel rail (I turned the rail 180* so the line doesn't have to cross the engine compartment) and working my way back. I have better fittings than the hose clamps, but the Postman hasn't delivered them yet.

V8droptop

Think I know that color, I have a few cans of it. My parts are similar, but went with the Burnt copper, its a bit more orange-y.

Your booster looks awesome, congrats. Also with you on the fuel line routing. Big plus for cleaning the engine bay.

dietcoke

What color/brand is that rattle can paint? Its pretty close to mine, I'd use it in a few places.

edit: nevermind, i cant read on tuesdays

Meierznutz

VHT "Burnt Copper" got it in the engine paint section of Advanced Auto Parts! They have High Temp Clear also ad looking back now I would have tried it to get a little more gloss out of it. Looks a lot like an anodized finish.
I am going to use it on the brackets you pointed me toward as well as the water pump and a few other things.

V8droptop

Oh, man you cheated! That's what I'm using :-D

Some photos of my handi-work. I did 2-3 coats of high-build primer, lots of 2000-3000 grit sanding, 4 coats color, 3 coats clear, and buffing. Little time in it, but comes out nice!

dietcoke

Those covers look great

Meierznutz

Very nice.... I just received the water pump and the 0* T-stat outlet for the lower hose today. I will be taping them up and giving them a light sand blast before painting them too. Pics when it's all mounted up.
Side note, I got the sway bar end links in and it looks as though I will not need spacers for the front tires. That will make things a lot easier. If the ones I painted will fit the rear with no chance of rubbing then that's where they will go (they came out very nice, I hate to have them on a shelf).

Meierznutz

Well so much for money in the bank.... The 0* outlet will put the lower coolant hose right into the fan shroud. I guess I will have to sell that and use a stock outlet that is cleaned up and panted. It was a good idea while it lasted!

Meierznutz

Low buck belt drive. I only had to mod the back of the tensioner to get it lined up.

Meierznutz

I got the fuel line run tonight from the tank to the rail. 6AN kit from Sumitt Racing. Had about 6 feet of hose left over.

Meierznutz

I can't believe it has been two years since I started this thread. It took a bit over a year to get the frame home and then only about 15 hours to get it mocked up to the point that she's a roller with the engine and trans in.
I have done a lot of work on the car twice just because I wanted to upgrade things from stock or to get them to fit the way I wanted.
Unfortunately I have bigger plans than my walet can handle right this second but I refuse to give up on her! Once my employment situation improves, or it actually begins to snow here in the North East again, I can get back to buying the last few big ticket items I need and she will be running.
Now for the update..... I grabbed an APR carbon fiber rear wing last month from another builder who was going to install it on his Miata. It will be a bolt on for the Exocet rear pedestal. I just need to buy them. I have the front wing mounts but if I am going to use them I have a lot of mods to make to get it to fit. I may just let them go to someone that can pop them on and run.
In the mean time I am building my dash cluster and modifying the stock gauge hood to fit. I had to cut some off the front edge (windshield side) to clear the glass and I am painting it to match the burnt copper trim pieces. It will then be hydro dipped in clear and black CF pattern so that the copper shows through.
Pics will be posted when its done.....
Happy New Year and thanks for following

Meierznutz

This weekend's project was to work out the brake lines for the front of the car. Since the stock Miata clutch system uses a bracket at the firewall for the tubing to connect to the flex line of the slave cylinder, and the fitting for that is the same size hex as my brake hoses, I will be using two of those brackets to hold the metal lines to the frame.
The flex lines will then go to the wheel cylinders. Once I drill and tap the mounts to the frame I can fill the system and bleed the lines. Brakes functional and checked off the list. The only thing left to do is mount and run the parking brake cables and balancer assembly.

Meierznutz

If you have not heard of Main Street Automotive in Clinton, Mass then I suggest you look them up. Bob Baylis, his wife, and son have a great shop that specializes in Miatas. They buy/sell/part out cars all the time and are big in the Mass Miata club supporting their members and hosting Tech Days and runs. Great people and a wealth of Miata knowledge for all generations of these cars.
Bob and his crew were the ones that built the exhaust for my first V8 car "Nadine". Son Chris also was the one to send me the brackets that I was looking for to do the brakes on the front of "Natalie". I don't normally pitch a shop unless they have gone well above and beyond for me and without gushing I can say that these folks are well involved with the hobby and interested in having friends as well as customers. If you are stuck for something then I highly suggest you give them a call....

Meierznutz

I got to working on the clutch master cylinder Friday. I was trying not to have to use the adapter plate that I used on the last LS1 car. The stock MC attaches to the pedal mounting studs and they have an offset pattern. The Wilwood 3/4" diameter MC (part # 260-1304, $38.00 on Amazon) has holes at 12 and 6 o'clock. The great thing about the Exocet is that the firewall is very thick in the pedal area. I was able to mark and drill two 3/8" holes and just bolt it up. The clevis on the stock clutch pedal is threaded in metric and of course the pushrod on the MC was threaded in SAE so I needed to remove the pedal and tap the clevis to 5/16x24. Once that was done it all bolted up very easily and I saved about $200 over the kit with the adapter.
My next purchase will be a couple line adapters to get the hoses to bolt to the master and slave and then I can mount the bleed line to the frame as well. I have 2 stainless hoses already. By having a 36" bleeder I can run the return line higher to catch air that gets trapped and I don't need to climb under the car to bleed it if need be.
If you have ever tried this on an F-body before you know how important that is!

Meierznutz

Here are a couple of the brake brackets I posted about. I know the clip isn't seated. I didn't want to have to play with it and risk scratches when building the brake lines. I will push it all the way down once the lines are completed.

dietcoke

Those are a good idea. Mine are just zip tied, isn't very elegant.

Meierznutz

I got to playing with the lines a bit more yesterday. I finished the one that crosses over the bay to the right front. I used the green coated line because I figured I was going to screw it up and have to reform it in the Conifer stuff later. As with everything else I do it seams that when I just think "F-it", that's when they come out the best. I may leave it in place. The one that loops over the master stuck out to far toward the engine for me. I took this pic but later formed the line with tighter bends.
Just a tip. If you need to bend a tight 90 close to the fitting, Slide the nut onto the line and flare the tube, then slide the nut up to the flare. To get the bend without getting a flat spot or kink, put a quick release air fitting in your vice and bend the tube between the grove of the retainer. The u shape of the fitting won't flatten the tube and if you move the tube a little so as not to pull all of the bend in one spot you get a clean 90.

Meierznutz

Still playing with brake lines..... I found a set of tube pliers at HF that are good for finessing the bends and getting some small tight radius bends done. Lube helps and you can't get to crazy with them but they are good for the $16 +/- price.
I also grabbed a Coil tubing straightener from Eastwood. At $79.99 it sure isn't cheap but it takes a coil of 3/16" and makes it poker straight in no time! The bad thing is that the tool doesn't clam shell. You have to feed tubing in from one end to the other. It wont fit over a flare and you cant take a kink out mid line. It certainly does give you much better looking straight runs than if you tried to flatten out the curves and avoids the little wobbles you would have trying to do this by hand.
I am seriously thinking of their flare tool that clamps in the bench vice. I hate trying to measure the end of the tube and juggling with the little pieces to try to get perfect flares. Again lube helps but this is one of those things that once added to the tool box I would be happy to seldom need but thrilled to have when I do.

Meierznutz

I mounted the brake proportioning valve to a bracket attached to the clutch pedal mount. It puts the **** just below the gauges and to the left of the column. I wanted to be able to bend lines on either side of the firewall so I took a flare coupling and turned a shallow groove in it 3/16" back from the cast in nut in the center. After drilling (2) 1/2" holes in the firewall I now have an in and an out bulkhead fitting. Makes for a very clean install. The snap ring holds the coupling in place and the lines can be tightened from either side.

.boB

Cool! I left mine in the engine bay. Any pics?