V8R sloooww build - 94 Miata - North Carolina
 

Well, this will be a first for me on several levels -- 1st V8 swap, 1st MAJOR build project, and 1st discussion-forum thread to post on and update throughout a project. I've been the beneficiary of MANY others who contribute their knowledge and vital steps as they do clutch jobs, timing belts, brakes, whatever. The internet and various automotive forums have served me well so now's the right time and place to put this project out there with a little historical perspective as well.

Been playing with Miatas since fall of 1990 when I picked up my only "new-to-me" '91 base package white one... That's been a while... & later sold it to raise some down-payment on the first house purchase in '93. Fast forward to 2013 and I've now had a total of 14 misfit Miatas... Ya know, the ones that sit on the 3rd row of a bad used car lot, the one with the 3rd connecting rod busted thru the block, the one that sat at the local towing co for 36 months with no back window... Yup, those became my passion. Fixing, repairing, replacing, driving, and re-selling.

And all along, I held onto this '94 white that I've steadily updated and played with.

Quick rundown on this 94:
95K miles - original paint - original softtop - clean cloth interior
'90 dash swap - HardDog HardCore Sgl Diag - mostly FM suspension -
Tein springs - RB header - Borla - FM Butterfly brace - FM brake upgrade, etc.
... But enough of that, it's time to strip her down for for a thorough build-up!
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Bought this in Oct '12. LS1 w/ wiring harness, exh manifolds, A/C, P/S, alt, etc. Supposedly a later '02 according to a block casting number with LS6 attributes(per someone else) - but I didn't have that warm & fuzzy feeling about this engine. Sold it last week on Craigslist & will soon begin serious search for preferred LS2/ T56 (in partial honor of GoKart & his tremendous build!!!)Attachment 7974

So time to keep dismantling. Empty the engine bay first...
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Now, remove about everything inside between the doors... Should have put the dash in with wing nuts since my '90 dash swap took place just last year. Oh well, it's a pretty simple puzzle after you do it once!
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You can see where the FM st/steel rails and butterfly brace was bolted in with the tell-tale signs of my undercoating around the fasteners...

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She's about cleaned out now...

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Well... fellas, some good stuff arrived via FedEx this week while I was out of town. I placed an order with Steve at V8Roadsters back in late Dec'12 or so, and received what I hope are the first two boxes of artwork. One box had the front crossmember, tranny x-member, and rear Ford diff brackets, while the 2nd box appears to have the frame rail stiffeners and well-packaged bag of hardware. V8R did right by me with using a blue powdercoat in lieu of standard grayish-black or red. I got more than I bargained for with this gorgeous blue metallic finish! I let them pick the exact color - just send something not red!!

See what ya think?
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Now, some pics w/o camera flash that may not bleach out the colors:
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Poor attempt at artistic shot :)
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That sort of brings this thread up to the present... I'll need to pick up my 8.8 donor diff (thanks Tad!) that may or may not need rebuilding. Probably will, once I determine the desired ratio for fast car with incoming big (to me) power, and double overdrive tranny... I guess you could gear it for 1500 RPM at 75 if you really wanted to. It should be fun to work thru that and select what's right for me. This won't be a 1/4 mile car, but I do want to be able to easily do 1000 mile weekend runs to Road ATL or Blue Ridge Mtns - as well as - put it thru some HDPE events so I can get a strong sense of how crazy it will be at 50% or better throttle!

Other good stuff coming, you ask? Why yes... Ordered FM radiator, stage 2 fans, fuel kit, FM V8 front sway bar, hyd clutch kit, etc. V8R should be sending out my alum oil pan, alum driveshaft, P/S delete pulley bracket, and a few other awesome items of choice.

Keep you posted. Once I locate engine/ tranny, then it will be time to experiment with a plasma cutter, BFH, and whatever else I can drag up to hit with, heat with, paint with in the shop (not mine - but nearby family's shop, thank goodness!)

I look forward to getting some good advice for wiring and how to work out all the little details. I'll definitely need this forums' help for some future battles to fight. I do read here, m.net, LS1tech, FM, and anything else that looks interesting about these swaps.

Thanks, Pat

All your projects are first class. I also know you have an almost 80 year old side kick who gave you this addiction. Looks great!!!!!

Unwrapped a few more items from the V8R shipment. Frame rail stiffeners, engine mounts, and lots of hardware wrapped with love and tender care!

Quick question: Should my transmission crossmember be drilled out to match up with the welded and drilled out brackets on the frame rail stiffeners? Not certain, myself. But I could see an argument that would suggest it's best to let the customer drill the holes once he perfects the driveline alignment... Any V8R customers, please share. Thanks :)


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That's definitely NOT red. Love the blue! It really pops and will look great installed. Let's get this project going ToySnake!!

When you get your V8R oil pan, please compare its dimensions to these for us (especially the front bit over the steering rack).

http://www.mastmotorsports.com/2010/..._pan_views.pdf
http://www.holley.com/data/products/...dimensions.jpg
Autokraft.org | Autokraft Race Cars and Restorations | Eau Claire, WI

I certainly will since I don't have a LSx or tranny to play with as of yet. I'll document as much as I can about the pan and other components from V8Roadsters and FM. Neither website gives a LOT of info on the radiators, engine oil pans, fuel line/ filter kits, etc. I'll do what I can to help keep our group informed! Thanks, Pat

Wow I am delighted to see so many pan options out there! Could I suggest we not high jack this build thread discussing oil pans but instead start a thread just on that? I have a few ideas to but this really is not the place.

Another week of travel for my job & came home to open 2 boxes from my over-worked UPS delivery guy. Found this Z06 / LS7 intake on eBay - said to have 1100 miles on unit and filter & it looks brand new!

This is the 2nd LS swap book I've purchased - and at first glance, it looks to be pretty in-depth on ignition/ wiring/ fuel/ clutch/ troubleshooting/ etc. I'm not a LSx expert, so I need all the expert guidance I can gather.

V8R reports that driveshaft and other goodies will head my way in near future. Just gotta keep an eye out for my engine/tranny pull-out. Could be a while now that I've just started being concerned about possibly getting "stuck" with Hurricane Sandy wet-car components. Thats kinda scary...

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A few weeks have passed since I've gotten to the shop to play. In the meantime, a V8R alum driveshaft arrived and will be garage art until there's a need - and a place - to bolt it in! Oh well, gotta start stockpiling parts sooner or later. Looks like Nikki, our 1 yr-old fur baby, has about as much interest in it as the wifey. :)

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Anyway, I was able to swing by Home Depot and get a new 4" wire brush for the angle grinder before removing the 8 nuts holding the ft subframe, K member, in place. This car has had an easy life with no salt or much rainy day driving - all 8 came loose with no penetrating oil and a 1/2" ratchet - almost too easy. (Think I'll torque my V8R subframe a bit tighter...)

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Took some 6" porch decking and slid it thru the openings on the front dollies, added scrap 2x6x14"'s & cut and screwed onto the decking boards, and then secured some large 6"x8" or so blocks to support the front end and allow it to roll as needed (since I keep the car to the side and don't tie up my father-in-law's shop in case he needs to use the building.

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Now - had the pleasure of grinding off the seam sealer around the trans tunnel and the two supports/ gussets that will need to be carefully removed for widening. Gotta get a spot-weld specific drill bit from Harbor Frt before I do any surgery. That's it for today. Keep searching for engine and tranny...

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Time to update - couple of things have taken place this week.

#1 was the discovery on Monday that a LS2-T56 that I had been watching for weeks (among several other LS1's and 2's...) was offered at a reduced Buy It Now price sometime that day. I called to confirm that it was still avail and jumped on it. So today when I returned home, I picked it up at the local ABF shipping terminal and brought it to the shop via trailer. My father went along for the ride and seemed pretty pleased with how this thing looked. Hope it will run as well as it looks sitting on the pallet!

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Pulled it under the I beam and used two chain hoists and large tow straps to raise it up and drive the trailer out from under the motor.

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Is this thing wrapped up or what? They used metal straps to stay snug on the shrink wrap & cardboard cover.

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Unwrapping this puppy -- all is looking good so far... :)

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Finally, got the bubble wrap off and snapped on the icing for this cupcake - the GTO coil covers. This thing looks mean. BTW, it's out of a 2005 with less than 19K, has all 3 pedals included, ECM, wiring, and all engine accessories. F Parts / Contemporary Corvettes in Bristol, PA looks like they take a lot of pride in what they sell. Engine was VERY secure on the pallet and everything was protected well with good labeling on the package to help prevent damage during transit. Sweet.

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And sometimes good things come in smaller packages... The brown truck delivered a few boxes from V8R -- The stage 1 axles for the yet to be picked up Ford 8.8 diff and a heavy @ss box with 8 tubular control arms.

Took a quick pick with the only unwrapped items - might as well keep the stuff boxed up till I need it, I guess.

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Now, just need the V8R oil pan so I can actually bolt somethin' together and put the front crossmember/ K member under the motor. ...Floorboard and firewall cutting will soon commence.

Love the shot of the tube frame watching as you unpack his new engine! Congrats on the find, that is one sweeeeet build you have going!!

Thanks! I know you, too, have made some strides on your build with finding great deals on the oil pan and the exhaust.

Well, I want to post shots of the early stage of my destruction. I had always wanted some detailed shots of how the transmission tunnel reinforcements get removed with what tools, so after my trip to Harbor Frt Tools to pick up the spot weld drill bit, I'm ready to show you what's involved:

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The above hand tools are all that I needed up to this point: small chisel, hammer, drill with bit, and a center punch.

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She's coming apart now. You don't have to drill too deep to break through the weld. I think the best way to go is to drill your first 3 or 4, then use the chisel and hammer to test to see if you can separate the panels.

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Now, I used my $9.98 Harbor Frt Tools 3" hi-speed air cut off tool to cut through the two welds near the throttle pedal. ...success.

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Short wrap up for the wknd -- removed the RH side transmission tunnel brace (just like the LH one above) and decided to fire up the $9.98 cut-off tool and do some preliminary cuts near the firewall. Hopefully next week, my brother will swing by from VA and show me how to use his plasma cutter :) to do the final cutting on the firewall and trans tunnel. I'm very excited about that happening.

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Today, I ordered the CTS/ C6 waterpump and crank pully... from Amazon. New waterpump with excellent, but limited, feedback was $108 shipped. New AC Delco pully was about $87 with frt included - also a fair deal I think. I do plan to put together a ------ sheet for possible public viewing like GoKart's. I think it helps others figure out if the LS swap is realistic before making the plunge. I do think it can be done cheaper than how mine is heading, but I plan to keep this V8 Miata for many years to come so I'm not cutting any corners on this build. ...Now, maybe the 2nd build will be different... Wouldn't that be fun.

Gotta share the latest with you -- saw the wonders of a plasma cutter on 220V do its stuff. It slices any and everything like butter - especially 1 or two layers of Mazda sheet metal. All these pics focus on the RH side of the transmission tunnel to keep this simple. If you need any equivalent LH side photos, please PM me.

Brother from VA made this happen - thanks HOLT !! Now, get busy!
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Clean work - just the somewhat rough plasma edges left behind - will tidy up later. Notice the FM instructions page displayed -- gotta follow directions!!!
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Cut a "V" so this whole back corner can be flattened out for upcoming fuel line routing and to comply with FM's build statement "the general idea is to make the engine bay a square box." Well said.
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Made the initial, vertical plasma cut for widening the tunnel at the top from the engine bay. Holt did the remaining 95% from inside the car.
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Next, we cut about 2" horizontal tabs every 2" or so to allow for easy folding. Did those from inside the car as well.
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Used the BFH (large hammer) to knock and wack the sides of the tunnel outwards. Took some measurements, then folded the ears over with said hammer. Photo doesn't show the flattened corner which we did later. 2-1/2# hammer is your friend.
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Inside pic sorta shows the tunnel widened and the initial 4" tab cut for upper tranny clearance. ...Disregard the horizontal cut that was an impromptu extra slice when we were working to remove the extra bracing just on the other side. At least its straight - and can be easily fixed with the MIG.
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Next up, at some point, will be to install the V8R alum oil pan, and trial-fit the engine & tranny for any clearance issues. I will then weld up and use lots of seam sealer and paint.

What part number did you use for the water pump? I used 89018052 and Amazon had it for ~$188.

For what it's worth this is the CTS-V Setup:

ACDelco 12560115 Harmonic Balancer - About $60 on Amazon
ACDelco 12568996 Main Idler Pulley - About $32 on Amazon
LS3 Water Pump 19180610 - Crate Take-off - About $110 on eBay

Also for what it's worth I'm 99% sure can use F body stuff if you put the fans on the front of the radiator. I'll let you know for sure in May...

LS6 CTS-V (2004-2005) setup, not LS2 CTS-V (2006-2007) to be clear.

I'm going to stick with 12635649 even though it costs a little more b/c its spec'd for the latest Camaro LS3 and I figure I want to stay away from the old rumors of wobbly dampeners on GTOs, Corvettes and the like.

And I'm going to stick with 89018052 (LS2?) for the water pump b/c it keeps the water neck on the passenger side of the pulley (makes it a little easier to go to FM radiator. The latest LS3 spec water pump put the neck on the driver side of the pulley.

Looks like ToySnake went with the GMB OE replacmeent pump to get the $108 price.

Not sure why you have the main idler pulley listed. I think its included in the CTS-V FEAD kit 19155066 (and Jegs is cheapest I've found for that kit so far @ $800 plus shipping, Chevrolet Performance 19155066 Chevrolet Performance Serpentine Belt Drive Systems)

I think you're right about the F-body stuff but I already have FM's V8 radiator and fan kit installed in my car so I'm working with that.

Exactly right on my after-market GMB waterpump. I've had recent success with same brand w/pump on the Jeep Liberty just last month so that helped push me towards this purchase. My front accessories plan, at this time, is to machine down the GTO LS2 alternator bracket and re-use those items. I've priced up thru GMPP dealer, Amazon, and eBay to come up with my CTS-V A/C compressor, bracket, idler and tension pullies, and small belt -- along with CTS-V idler, tension, and big belt. I'm deleting the P/S system and using a manual rack. The above plan looks to be $440 all-in. Cheers.

Good time to buy an underdrive crank pulley.

Hadn't really researched that. I know the ATI dampners are highly thought of, but I don't think my stock LS2 is in need of this as of yet. Do you like the underdrive feature for some sustained high RPM situations or occassional track day? Thanks!

Fine for track days but I'm not a big fan of the water pump turning slower sitting in traffic with the AC on...

In the 10 years now I've worked with LS1's, I've seen TONS of stock pulleys fail, but have seen only a few aftermarket units do so. I've also never had an issue overheating with an underdrive pulley, even with the AC blasting on a 100+ degree day in traffic. The alternator also has zero issues. OEM for the NA Miata is somewhere around 45 amps, and the F-body alternator will put out 80 amps of extra current without the cooling fain or HVAC fan on, even at idle.

If you have the cash, ATI is king. If you do not, I've had ZERO issues with the ASP pulleys I've had on mine and other peoples cars, and I've installed a few...

Speaking of the pulley, buy an OEM bolt, or soak the ARP in red thread lock and pray you never have to remove it. I've seen 2 ARP units back out now, and one break.

Good info and insight on LSx dampners. I'm new to my LS2 so it's good to hear some opinions on what's best.

Today, I removed the front accy's for eBay listing. I'm going with most of the CTS-V components, so these GTO parts will go to new homes soon!

Notice the use of a 25 cent piece between the pulley remover and the impact socket sitting on the nose of the crankshaft. I needed something to push against with the tool, got the pulley off easily, but destroyed the quarter!

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Also, I had the pleasure of 3 boxes of goodness from FM: radiator, front V8 sway bar, fan kit, short shifter,fuel kit, and the Targa V8 DVD for later!!! :)

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Will get back at it tomorrow AM and get the motor ready to put on the engine stand. Cheers.

Today was a dirty-job day with a few different tasks. 1 was to disassemble the old Miata front K member and suspension. Wanted to extract the front uprights/ hubs and remove the shocks & springs. The fun part was finding a pickle fork and whacking it with the 2-1/2# hammer to separate the ball joints. While doing that, I went ahead and stripped it apart with removal of all the A arms and stuff.

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Here's about all you need, tool wise.

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Hauling it to away to my storage barn. Glad to have the use of the Gator for the bigger stuff.

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Finally, a little more separation between stuff. Seems like all I do take stuff apart these days...:sly: Spent an enormous amount of time and effort to pull the tranny away from the motor. It seems the clutch/ pressure plate was seized on the tranny splines. Moisture? Wet? Hmmmm, hope it's okay.

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Engine is now on stand and awaiting its V8R alum pan -- better follow up on that - it's been 10 weeks or so, but it hasn't been an issue since I'm on the slow path and will be away from the shop for the next 2 weeks or so. Cheers.

I would love to have a shop like that! Awesome build by the way. I will be following you for sure!

Thanks Brandog! I need to make a few small updates this weekend. Stay tuned as this sloooow build keeps rolling along.

You seem to be moving along nicely! My main goal is to let my hobby pay for itself. I buy, fix, and resell cars, but it is a very slow process. If I had all the funding needed I could see me taking around a month to complete, including paint. I absolutely love to wrench on things and I have a hard time going in for dinner.

So if you think your build is slow, think again. You will be on the road in no time.

Update time - I'm a week or two behind on the thread, but progress has been slooow, just as my build title states... Here, we will convert the GTO T56 to 2002 Camaro-style with aftermarket shifter.

First, remove this set-back shift assy.
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Next, remove the Tremec extension piece that's held into place with the rolled pin. This is where the ball of the shifter sits and pushes and pulls the rod. (You're correct - I'm not a Tremec expert, thus, I don't know the technical terms and descriptions. :)
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Install the just-arrived Tremec piece that's shorter and designed for 1998-2002 Camaro shifter.
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I've already scrubbed, cleaned, and painted the transmission case and belhousing for a spic & span look when she goes under the Miata. Time for fresh gasket material.
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Now, let's button it up with a little bit of engineering jewelry: PRO 5.0 shifter that is stout! I've read good reviews so I didn't see why not try one.
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Next up -- I had a slow day in the shop with some repetitive country music on the radio and decided to make the full plunge to 1. Play with a mig welder (I'm not claiming that I can weld -- I can turn it on, make a good ground, and strike an arc and burn some wire -- not weld like a lot of talented V8 conversion folks.) 2. stitch weld/ seam weld the areas that are known to stiffen up this unibody. I have the unique opp to do it NOW with everything removed. Plus no V8R oil pan as of yet so I cannot start test fitting the bellhousing clearances as of yet.

I'm starting up front and will move to inside the car later. So, remove the seam sealer and paint as best you can -- I used wire wheel on DeWalt hi-speed angle grinder and small screwdrivers to pick at it like a mad dentist going after tooth decay.
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Now, this is the 1st time I've EVER welded. I struggled with an old ill-fitting hood and learned that the scrap, 1/4" metal I played with 20 minutes is easier to spot weld than the Japanese sheet metal!! There are a few areas that I'll have to "fix" later. So, without further delay, I will display my poor performance!
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I will have an expert look these over and repair what is needed. But, I want this chassis as tight as I can get it. Plus, it's kinda fun knowing you're putting in some extra effort for, hopefully, better handling results.

Another brief day of my wknd spent with the MIG welder. This time, I had a new welding hood with auto-dimming lens to wear (thanks to my brother!!) and what a difference that made! You can actually see where you're planning to weld just prior to the bright @ss welding arc popping up! Nice to be in the 21st century...

The plan today turned out to be stitching some welds around the door opening / windshield frame and the seat mount areas on the floorboard.

First clean with wire wheel -- this time, I used a small 3" one on cordless drill. Actually did much better than the 4" one I had on a side grinder. I think this lighter duty one had more and smaller wires that were just right for ripping off the paint.
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Then use my meager & questionable skills to apply instant, hi-voltage, argon, and wire to make spotty welds appear. Again, they're not pretty - but they seem to penetrate and tie the pieces of metal together somewhat better than the factory spot welds.

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Now, clean and prep for some random rattle can paint - this particular shade is a Ford Tractor white - used on the fenders and wheels from 15+ years ago. Doesn't have to be perfect - just completely seal up the exposed metal and then the carpet, moulding, and thermal heat barrier will eventually cover it up.

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Now... to improve upon what was under the hood, my father-in-law took control of the welder and did what I couldn't do. And that was fill up some seams with lots of metal - big, thick layers of metal. This was done without burning a hole in the Mazda sheet metal - I was impressed. These will get some attention with a grinder, as needed, some seam sealer, and matching Mazda PT white paint ordered off the internet in aerosol cans. Look forward to this Frankenstein engine compartment becoming more civilized in the future...

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Put 'er away for another day. The Toy Snake will one day get a new LS2 heart transplant and come back to life.
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Are you going to be able to reuse the brackets for your cts-v accessories? That's where I'm stumped right now.
I also heard from a little birdy at flyin miata that they might be getting a new oil pan supplier soon.....

Yeah, I've actually been sourcing CTSV acc's to use on this ex-GTO LS2. I've got the A/C comp and bracket, A/C tensioner pulley, waterpump idler and tensioner pullies, and will have the alternator brkt machined down the necessary 0.7xx" so it will line up properly.

It's funny you say that about the pan, V8R told me that the reason I'm waiting to receive mine is because it will be a new generation of pans. The big difference, they said, was that the mounting flange on the pan is thicker to take more heat as the pan is built and will allow them to run the whole pan on a milling macine to provide a better fitting pan. I wonder if FM and V8R will continue to use the same vendor for these..? Wish mine would hurry up!!

Sorry for the noob question. Could you use a GTO shifter or is this step necessary if your donor T56 is not from an F-body?

No apologies needed on newbie Q's!! We're all learning about the LS - Miata swaps. I will be asking LOTS of wiring questions when I get to that point -- I just don't have a clear understanding as of yet on ALL that needs to be done to integrate GM wiring and PCM into the Mazda chassis. Oh well...

Back to your question: Since my T56 came out of a 2005 GTO, I had to remove that unique shifter assembly because it sits too far back for perfect alignment like the Camaro T56 shifter location gives you. It was simple to do & I sold the GTO shifter and removed Tremec adapter on eBay this past week to help fund the project, although it sold for less than what I thought it would go for...
So, locate either a T56 from a 1998 - 2002 Camaro/ Firebird LS1 car or the GTO 2004-06 and do what I did. (Keep in mind that later T56's from poss 2001 and up received some internal improvements for durability and such...)

The GTO shifter just will not work with it's offset linkage that kicks it further back on the tranny. The factory Camaro will work or any aftermarket upgrade that's labeled for the LS1 Camaro/ Firebirds will also fit (like my Pro 5.0 version.)

Several weeks have passed & a few things have held up forward progress/ work on the car: other obligations around the house, my dad's 80th surprise b-day (very glad for that!), and the non-arrival of my V8R oil pan. It's due to the re-design I was informed about a few months ago... Oh well, I'll keep my fingers crossed as I hope for its arrival any day on the big brown truck.

In the meantime, I've been doing more interweb research and making some key part acquisitions. I might as well post up some pics with brief commentary:

Starting from the front of the car - From 3 vendors, I now have my missing Z06 intake components such as the Hitachi blade-style MAF, wiring harness adapter to tie it into my LS2 harness, and a black, smooth silicone intake adapter that will connect it to the throttle body.

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On the front drive accessories, I cobbled up my own CTS-V kit. Since my plans call for no P/S, I didn't want to do the whole GM 19155066 kit. I took the liberty this wknd, to paint the brackets and waterpump with hi-temp silver paint to help preserve the clean looks. After seeing how the bare aluminum brackets and accy's looked on my 7 yr-old LS2 donor, I want to improve it in the looks department. Individual items are either from Delco on Amazon, GM dealer on the web, or eBay vendors. The A/C cond and the alternator were listed as "rebuilt" by reputable eBay vendors, but BOTH arrived as NEW Denso items with Delco/ GM part numbers and Delco boxes. That equaled some big savings! I was going to do a 160F thermostat that I received a few wks ago, but further research indicates that the 180F is what I really need so the LS's engine oil will get hot enough to burn off condensation. New 180F t-stat on the way - new 160F to go on eBay.

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New Taylor wires as one of the original wires broke upon removal - (damn thing was fused on the plug!) New NGK plugs as well. Not seen are my eBay plug wire insulators/boots. They're a blue weave that will be a subtle addition under the hood.

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And wrapped up in the wires, will be these FM headers. From what I can tell, the advantage over the Sandersons will be the pipe connections further down in the engine bay.

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Motor mount heat shields, anyone? Having never seen a pic of these stainless steel Flyin Miata ones before, I thought I'd post 'em up:

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Not new, but I cleaned up the GTO LS2 starter and heatshield. The alum was a little chalky and some surface rust was on the black painted metal. She now has a dark bronze tan to help protect her from the future elements!

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Further back is the new Monster Stage 1 clutch, PP, and lighter-weight steel flywheel at 18lbs. Got this kit from Maryland Speed with their new GM bolts, throwout unit, and pilot bearing.

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For my cut-up firewall, I'll need these FM weld-in plates to stiffen up the corners. They're heavy gauge - but that's all I can tell you. Paint can is there to illustrate size of the pieces.

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From the reading I've done, it sounds like this Motorcraft reverse switch for the T56 will save me a headache as it has a 90 degree bend for better tunnel clearances. Amazon for the win again!

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And finally -- brakes, suspension, tires & wheels. I originally thought I'd do this later - like year or 2 later. But the devil kept pushing me along with a demand for more Mission Creep... So, the FM VMaxx Classic with NB Miata upgrade and the FM V8 replacement springs in case it sits too low on the originally-supplied front springs. (I do want this car to keep a relatively lower stance - no original height or taller is acceptable.)

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Good-Win Racing supplied the rest: Wilwood BBK - I wimped out and settled on the standard kit with Brian's custom st/steel ft hoses so I won't have to utilize excess Wilwood plumbing adapters. Rotors will be smooth - calipers will be black - no brake bling for me - only guys who have 15" carbon fiber rotors and 6 or 8 piston calipers have the authority to draw attn to their brake set ups! :)

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And the tire/ wheel selection -- my preference is for fat tires (yeah, I'm going with no power steering, wish me luck!). These 225/45/15 Toyo Proxes and 15x8 machined-finish Konig Flat Outs will also require some fender lip modifcations. I never wanted to commit adultery to this clean Miata body, but those feelings went out the window after all the stitch welding and cutting that's been going on in recent months!

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Nikki shared her approval after the FedEx guy left 'em on the porch. She insisted that I take a peek before carrying them to the garage.

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Keep you posted as the story continues. BTW, I did take the Ford 8.8 Diff and 3.31:1 ring & pinion to Fastlane Motorsports in Benson, NC. These guys are late-model Mustang experts! They're going to update the diff with Ford Racing bearings, seals, limited slip, etc so she'll be ready to bolt in -- when that day comes.

...Just need an oilpan so the build can resume!!!!!

Did you get a price estimate / quote for the 8.8 rebuild? I'm curious what the Fastlane guys charge for that service. Are they sourcing the parts for you as well?

Awesome build ToySnake. You are definitely doing it Right!

Yeah,they did give me a ballpark range - but that will likely change if they decide not to use my like-new, which they call "used" :) , ring & pinion that I sourced off of eBay. I also asked if they could locate an alum rear diff cover as I think that the rear diff some guy :wavey: (thanks Tad!) gave me is all cast iron/ steel. Regardless, that donated diff is going to a good home one day when it gets suspended up in the back of my Miata!

Take it by your local Ford dealer & slip around back & talk to the techs. Find out who is the differential specialist, & see if he could do your rebuild on the side. The guys in the parts department can probably tell you who you need to talk to. I used to charge $100 + parts for ring & pinion swaps.

The last set up I paid for was $193 in labor and that was the end of that! Have you guys considered not farming the job out? IMO if you can convert a Miata to a V8 you certainly have the chops to set up a diff. It's not rocket science and if you are using an iron diff the only tool it takes you might not have is a dial indicator. That can be had for way less $$ than the labor to have it set up plus you will have the tools and know how if you ever want to swap them again for a different ratio. The IRS is sweet because it’s easy to do on the bench not like a solid axle lying on your back.

Pat for the little bit of money difference I would go with new gears. 8.8s are pretty forgiving and easy to get quiet but still not worth the gamble if you are paying for set ups.

I just decided to take it the local Ford specialty shop after receiving a few recommendations - and no one in my circle - old hot rodders and a Factory Five cobra builder/owner had set up their own rear diffs. The guys at Fastlane were great when I met and dropped it off with them, and I'm glad to give them a little business. They want to see this LSx Miata once it's done! These Mustang heads hadn't heard about this particular swap!

And, I agree -- if they believe there's any reason not to use this 500 mi. ring & pinion, then I agreed that they should go ahead and procure one. I got $80 (I believe?) invested in it & will gladly throw it back on eBay if it goes unused...

The Ford dealer will have the proper special tools to set-up your ring & pinion correctly. This includes a "case expander", which most people have never seen or heard of, unless they have actually read a Ford service manual.

Trans tunnel questions
 

I see in the FM instructions to remove both gussets (inside the car), but I have not seen pictures of the inside drivers side after the widening. How much did you move the drivers side tunnel?

Do you have a picture of the inside after the gussets have been reinstalled?

Also - on the FM instructions, step 13, it states:
"Make sure that our frame reinforcements (that go between the frame rail and firewall) fit properly; adjust them if need be. If you don’t have a pair, call us and we’ll fix that".

Do you have these reinforcement pieces - or a picture of them?

Thanks!!

SB5700 - Yes sir, here's a pic of the FM frame rail reinforcements. They're made of fairly heavy gauge metal. This pic was on page 4 in this thread as a matter of fact.
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Regarding your Q about inside gussets -- I've only removed my pair at this point - Once I can test-fit the engine and bellhousing, only then will I know what my inside clearances will be and then will reweld the interior gussets.

And because I don't have the elusive V8R alum oil pan as of yet and can do the above-mentioned test fitting..., I decided to install one new tire/wheel for the heck of it - just needed some inspiration, I guess. Car is up in the air so this exagerated fender gap will be a thing of the past once it's built and back on the ground!

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I appreciate the repost - clearly I blew right past that on page 4. I think I can make these up - I have a sheet of 14ga steel that should be perfect for the corner supports.

I wish I had a plasma cutter... but I have not been able to justify the cost in the past.

Got ALL kind of good news to share this week! First of all, V8R has sent me some FedEx tracking numbers for the belated items such as newly revised alum LSx pan, P/S delete brkt, and my A/C block for the CTS-V compressor to Mazda hoses (at least, that's how I think it fits in - been a while...). Many pics of the pan will be posted as soon as it arrives in NC.

Today was a quick field trip to Fastlane Motorsports, builders of all thing bad@ss when it comes to late model Mustang. I picked up my just-built 8.8 IRS diff with all Ford Racing goodies inside and outside: ring & pinion install kit, 3.31 ring & pin, rebuilt Traction Lok kit, and the alum Cobra IRS girdle cover for some added bling. For those 3 or 4 folks who will be willing to look under this car after it's on the road, ...they will get the special treat of seeing this! For everyone else who fails to look under the rear bumper, ...then it's wasted $ on my part! But I LIKE it! Now, I will need to sand, prep, and paint the black housing to bring the rest of the appearance to proper standards. I think it will be silver/ hi-heat aluminum paint as well for better match.

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Now, if I so chose, I can pull the rear suspension and Mazda diff out for proper build up of rear suspension/ diff installation/ etc... Glad to get over the hump as I waited for rear diff and oil pan...