It's been a long time since I decided to take on this project and now I believe it is worthy of a build thread.

Before we get into my build, I would like to say thanks to all of you for contributing to this awesome resource we call V8miata.net. I have been lurking for a while and soaking up all kinds of great info.

The car: 1992 mariner blue miata "A" package w/hardtop. I have owned this car for 16 years now. The car is fitted with some suspension mods and a Hard Dog 4-point rollbar.

The plan: Built aluminum 5.3(LH6), Viper T56, Cobra 8.8 LSD, V8R subframe. Also, I am going to run some boost and fuel it using Holley EFI.

Purpose: Street car that will make me grin ear to ear. There's nothing really more to it.



Believe it or not, this all started with a bare engine block. Yes, this was the very 1st part that I purchased(Ebay $175).

 

I came across a good hookup for hotrod engine parts and machining, so my engine build got a little out of hand. Over the course of about a year, it turned into an animal consisting of:

Callies Magnum crankshaft 58x
Callies forged H-beam rods
Wiseco 3.80" forged pistons
Coated bearings
ARP studs throughout
The cam is custom grind: 223/231 .650/.600 112+2
Katech C5R timing set
New LS7 lifter and trays
Melling HV oil pump




I scored some 243 casting cylinder heads form a donor motor out of an avalanche. I had them CNC ported, installed Ferrea stainless valves, BTR hardened pushrods, BTR .660" springs/Ti retainers, and upgraded the rockers with Comps trunion kit. They heads are secured with ARP studs.

 

Fitted with Holley 302-2 oil pan, pickup, and race baffle:


Note: Manual steering rack^^^

 

Tired of the search for a proper 4-corner coolant crossover that would fit under a factory intake, I decided to make one. In order for that to happen, I had to teach myself to bronze braze.

 

ATI Super Damper hub with ARP crank bolt. I had to boil the hub for about 30 min to install on the crank. Even then, it was a bear to pull on to the crank. I made a custom puller, and it worked, but found when I removed it that my puller was stretched to the point that it is now useless.

 

I fitted Holley valve covers to keep the engine clean.


Installed the LS2 intake. This was a factory new takeoff that I bought from SDparts.com. It came with the injectors, rail and throttle. I will use these injectors and rails when I dyno the engine for break-in. Then they will be ditched for high flow units more suited for boosted applications.

Coil packs and ATI damper now fitted also.

 

The drivetrain will consist of Driveshaft Shop 1000hp axle/hub kit mated to a refreshed cobra IRS carbon clutched LSD.


The T56 is from a Viper, and a Lakewood RM6038 bell housing(not pictured) will take care of fitting the viper trans to the LS. This will require an adaptor pilot bearing. Also, I have a McLoed RST twin disc clutch(also not pictured).


The subframes are out and the interior is partially disassembled. This is the current status of the car. Lot's of work ahead of me. Be patient with me



....and a pic just for fun.

 

Wow, let me jump in here... Just doing a normal check-in with the forum and had to do a double take here. I'd say you have quite an impressive build strategy! I will gladly follow along and say thanks now for posting YOUR thread here. Somebody just turned the heat up in this place...

 

Great start to a build thread here, looking forward to seeing how you set up that turbo.

 

fantastic looking build so far, but I've gotta ask how come you're keeping stock ls7 lifters VS some nice Morel or Lunati ones with link bars to eliminate the trays (and possibility of spinning a lifter in the bore)

 

Me as well! So far, the plan is to run a remote electric water pump(notice the coolant adaptors in the last pic?), and possibly tube the front core support for more clearance. The manifolds will likely have to be fabricated.

 

Hi Steve. I was concerned about this too. Maybe I still am a little. At the time, I did a lot of reading and asking around, and convinced myself that most failures of the Chevy lifters were attributed to a poorly setup valvetrain, used parts with new, incorrect pushrods, poor quality cams, used trays, poor maintenance, worn springs......you get the idea. I set up my valvetrain with the help of my machinist. I expressed a little concern and he didn't seem to have any worries.

Does this guarantee that the lifters are up to the task? Not at all. I realize that this is a machine and anything can fail at any time. I am going to run it on the engine dyno to break it in before I put it into the Miata. Maybe I will convince myself by then that the $600 lifters are worth it. Who knows

 

nice build. sending you good vibes.

one thing though the Lakewood RM6038 bell housing. i had one of those, it hung 2" below the bottom of the car. might i recommend getting a t56 bell housing from tremic. that saved me 15lbs and gave me more clearance.

 

Jeez. I know it is a bit larger, but 2"? I guess I will cross that bridge when I get to it. I was hoping to avoid cutting the input shaft of the transmission in order to fit a f-body bell housing. Thanks for the heads up!

 

Update in the Lakewood bell housing: After thinking about Be Good's post about the Lakewood bell housing creating ground clearance issues, I decided to line it up with a bell housing from an F-body. I measured 1 inch of flange that may have to be trimmed.

 

I had to cut the flange off of the Lakewood bell housing on my Cobra. Those things are made out of some serious metal.

 

I fabbed up a rear diff mount today:

 

I like it!!!

Mike

 

That's a corvette beltline damper without a/c right? Whats the PN on it. I need a skinny damper without the a/c ring.

 

 

Nice informative information...thanks!

 

Completed the front portion of the diff mount yesterday:

 

Nice

 

Nice welds you have there

 

Thanks!