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Old 07-16-2017, 02:14 AM
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Originally Posted by CARBoy
Today was its first day on the road, and WOW!!! What a day! It's AMAZING!!! I drove around for probably an hour, all over the place, on the freeway; ran like a champ. This week I'll setup front end alignment and initial smog test appointments, then comes the ref.
It's throwing no error codes and the drive cycle items are disappearing from the OBD, so all seems well. I drove it pretty hard after a time and most items seem fine: oil pressure and temp, water temp, tach, speedo, brakes, clutch, suspension, fans, gears, power through entire range. Even the fabricated foot well lights, radio, and Suzuki Cappuccino washer bottle work. lol
Old 07-16-2017, 01:43 PM
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how are you going to get around the gas tank not being the gto tank?
Old 07-19-2017, 01:36 AM
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Originally Posted by portabull
how are you going to get around the gas tank not being the gto tank?
It hasn't been an issue with previous Monsters. We'll see what the ref says.
Old 09-04-2017, 09:57 PM
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Did it pass and get the carb sticker?
Old 09-05-2017, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by New2miatas
Did it pass and get the carb sticker?
Still haven't gone. Have some valve tick; probably bad lifter. Looks like a top end rebuild is needed. So that comes first.
Other than that, the car runs and drives great. Zero fault codes.
Old 09-05-2017, 12:20 AM
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Originally Posted by New2miatas
If you don't mind me asking, what are you guys doing for the gas tank?? I think that's often the big hang up with the rules now.

Being in Ca, I'm also watching this thread closely because i'd love to do an LS NB.
The tank does not need to be from the original vehicle. I confirmed this with someone who just passed with an LS in a 944. Trucks may need it, not cars.
The ECU can't be reprogrammed, other than VATS removed, which we did.
I'm this close -> <- to going to ref, but need to deal with the valve tick.
Old 09-05-2017, 12:33 AM
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Originally Posted by CARBoy
Water temp senders: There are two, the Miata and the GTO. The GTO was already in place towards the front of the driver side head. The harness connects up to it already and feeds the pcm as required, so no work was needed there. For the Miata cluster gauge, a stock Miata sender is needed. They can be purchased anywhere for cheap, or keep your old one. It screws right into the other head by the passenger side firewall. We replaced the cheap rubber washer with a crush washer. Also, be sure to retain the connector from the Miata harness. I let mine go with the engine/harness by accident. It wires right up to the gauge with only one wire. the other two wires are not needed and we sealed them up. (Pics to follow) Unlike the Miata oil pressure gauge, the temp gauge works well. Any stock Miata sender will work. I happened to get this one: Beck Arnley 158-0604. You can see the three connections. Only one is needed for the gauge: VIO/WHT, violet and white. Looks like purple and white.
Here are a couple more pics. You can see the stock port plug on the head that the stock water temp sender replaces.
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Old 09-05-2017, 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by CARBoy
Speedometer: This was easy. I bought a Dakota box for $85. After some trial and error, we figured out how to program it. It appears to match perfectly while running on stands, but may need additional setting while actually driving. So we are leaving that in a place where we can access it once the interior is re-installed. (Pics to follow)
Here's a pic of the box. We left the wires long enough for it to sit in the glove box until we finished calibrating it, which we now have. It will get tucked away. We updated the ECU program with the final tire diameter, and then calibrated the Dakota box using a GPS and the OBD reader while driving.
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Old 09-05-2017, 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by CARBoy
Wheel/tires: My original research suggested that a 245/35 on a 17x9 with something like +35 mm offset would fit, with some fender rolling. (This goes against what the purists say and advice from Goodwin, 949, etc, but we're dealing with horsepower in the many hundreds, so why not?!) We were able to borrow a set from Cord at Catfish (thanks Cord!), who is located next-door to Monster Miata in San Marcos, CA. Instead of 245/35, his were 235/40. They looked awesome, but running the suspension to extremes proved that they were too large in every direction. Rather than gamble with purchasing a set of 245/35, I tucked my tail between my legs and got a set of 15x9 Advanti Storm S1 +35 in grey, and 245/40 Maxxis Victra VR-1. They look great. I have yet to run them to extremes, but they should only need a fender roll. More on that with pics later...
Maxxis
Here are a few pics...
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Old 09-05-2017, 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by CARBoy
For whatever reason, the skip shift is not functioning, which is good. The solenoid is hooked up and it should work, but it goes from 1st to 2nd every time. It iisn't throwing a code. So I may be able to write that off as done.
UPDATE: The skip-shift does function, just not very often. There seems to be a small window in which it works. If the rpm/speed are too low or too high, it doesn't work. That's ok, we just need it working for the smog test, in case the ref wants it, and so there is no fault code. Without it working, the ECU throws a code.
Old 09-05-2017, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by CARBoy
We seem to have a problem. The tank is now at 3/4 full, per the Miata gauge, yet the GTO ECU is still reporting 100% via the OBD reader. So we need to solve that. It may not matter for smog, if I take it will a full tank, but I will sort it out eventually.
Fuel level is all sorted now. We just needed to set the extremes (empty and full) and it works. Otherwise the ECU threw fault codes. Here are pics of the insides of the box. Like the Dakota box, we kept its wires long enough so that it sits in the glovebox right now. I'll tuck it away now that the calibration is complete.
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Old 01-04-2018, 10:23 PM
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Went to the BAR referee. Didn't pass and it wasn't pretty, but the list of items isn't bad and we're working through them...
  • The cats need to be from the GTO. They are now.
  • The Miata charcoal canister, evap vent canister, and evap leak detection pump don't work. I've replaced them with the GTO's ORVR (Onboard Refueling Vapor Recovery) system, i.e., its charcoal canister, and its evap vent canister. Both mount up just fine, with a little work.
  • Adding a vent rollover valve to the fuel tank. All indications are that the 2004 didn't have one.
  • Obtaining an invoice from a GM dealer indicating that the PCM has been programmed/flashed with the latest OEM software. This is a new requirement as of 2015.
  • The CAI wasn't CARB approved, which was no surprise, so I've ordered one.
That's all of it. We should have it done within a couple of weeks.
Old 01-04-2018, 11:26 PM
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Glad to hear the project is moving forward!
Originally Posted by CARBoy
  • Obtaining an invoice from a GM dealer indicating that the PCM has been programmed/flashed with the latest OEM software. This is a new requirement as of 2015.
  • The CAI wasn't CARB approved, which was no surprise, so I've ordered one.
The programming requirement is interesting, that wasn't mentioned when I took my E-Rod through. As to the CARB approved CAI... Which vehicle does it need to be approved for, the GTO?
Keep us posted! I'd love to see this car get through.
-Z
Old 01-04-2018, 11:45 PM
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Originally Posted by zandr
Glad to hear the project is moving forward!
The programming requirement is interesting, that wasn't mentioned when I took my E-Rod through. As to the CARB approved CAI... Which vehicle does it need to be approved for, the GTO?
Keep us posted! I'd love to see this car get through.
-Z
Yes, the CAI needs to be GTO. Almost everything has to be for the GTO.

Apparently we picked the "wrong" ref to go to. People change over time and it wasn't the same guy. This guy seemed confused about items and couldn't tell me what parts were incorrect, only that his books didn't show the correct parts. Unfortunately everything was documented by the ref, including photos, so even if I go to another ref, which I will, I still need to get the original ref's listed sorted. Fortunately I've been able to sort it all out since and have solutions for everything.

Your E-Rod may have been handled differently because it was an E-Rod. Or you had a "better" ref. Or you did it before 2015. Oh, my ref mentioned that even the E-Rod has strict requirements for things like MAF placement, so I probably got the worst guy ever. lol

Onwards!
Old 01-05-2018, 12:13 AM
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No, I got dinged for MAF placement. It has to be in the middle of a 6" straight section of 4" duct, at least 10" from the throttle plate. So, I had to build a ridiculous hot-air intake (out of OMG NOT LEGAL IN CA parts... sigh) to get through the ref. He spent a long time measuring cat-to-port distances and so on, but the MAF was the only thing that failed. It then took some tuning to get the fuel trims close enough to get the monitors to set.

(You did have your readiness monitors set, right?)

I went through the ref in September of '16.
Old 01-05-2018, 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by zandr
No, I got dinged for MAF placement. It has to be in the middle of a 6" straight section of 4" duct, at least 10" from the throttle plate. So, I had to build a ridiculous hot-air intake (out of OMG NOT LEGAL IN CA parts... sigh) to get through the ref. He spent a long time measuring cat-to-port distances and so on, but the MAF was the only thing that failed. It then took some tuning to get the fuel trims close enough to get the monitors to set.

(You did have your readiness monitors set, right?)

I went through the ref in September of '16.
Yes, all readiness monitors were set. Sniff test had excellent numbers. Everything worked fine.
Interesting about the MAF. Where was your ref?
Old 01-05-2018, 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by CARBoy
Interesting about the MAF. Where was your ref?
Those requirements are one of the few things that's spelled out to that level of detail in the E-Rod instructions. That and the port-cat distance are it, really.
Ref was in Alameda. Ended up going to San Jose when I got it signed off, but that was just down to scheduling.
Old 01-18-2018, 01:59 PM
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Progress on a number of items (pics to follow):
  • Finalized installation of the ORVR (Onboard Refueling Vapor Recovery) system (charcoal canister) and the evap vent canister from the GTO. This actually reduced a little weight because it eliminates the Miata evap leak detection pump and some mounting brackets. The GTO parts look OEM; very nice.
  • Installed the GTO cats and beefed up the bracket holding up the midpipes.
  • Installed the CARB legal AEM CAI. It actually fits perfectly. Will enhance it with a box and perhaps hood vent later, after ref. This appears to be the only CARB legal CAI for the 05/06 GTO. K&N makes one for the '04, but not 05/06. Spectre are totally not compliant.
  • Swapped the cluster gauges for Mazdaspeed gauges. The reasoning was two-fold. The OEM tach goes to 7k while the LS redlines at 6.5k. The MSM tach redline is 6.5k. So that's a nice touch. Turns out the MSM gauges are silver, so they match the interior better; minor importance. The main reason for the swap is that the CEL is causing an occasional MIL pending DTC in the LS PCM. I was hoping the circuit in the new MSM cluster would work 100%. Unfortunately it doesn't work 100%. Now I'm hoping the CEL bulb just has a bad connection, so I need to find a way to improve the contact for it. Update: the CEL happened to have a bent pin in its connection. That was all. I just bent it back. lol
  • Received the new brass vent rollover valve. It's pretty nice. Just waiting for a bung which we will weld to the fuel pump cover to install the valve.
  • The ref had noted that the PCM and BCM weren't communicating. We originally thought that wasn't necessary, so we didn't deal with it, but he insisted it is. So we located a couple of previously ignored data wires (circuits 2500 and 2501) from the BCM C2 and spliced them into the same circuits running from the PCM C1 to DLC. When the car goes to the dealer for the PCM programming invoice I'll be sure to have them test that.
  • The P0689 DTC (low voltage to PCM) continues to appear regularly. It set while at the ref; not good. It coincides with starting, so we think there is a continuity issue there. Going to revisit all of the ignition wiring and PCM power connection.
  • Added connections for defrost between the NA hardtop to the NB body.
So, two main items remain in order to go back to the ref: rollover vent valve install and GM dealer PCM programming/flash invoice.

Some of the above experiences are good examples of why having a donor car is very helpful. I can't count the number of parts that have ended up being used from it, and I still have a ton more, like wires, connections, hardware, etc... Plus I've been selling parts off it to help pay for the build.

Last edited by CARBoy; 05-02-2018 at 12:33 AM.
Old 01-22-2018, 10:59 PM
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We revisited all of the schematics, diagrams, and wiring, which lead to a fix for the "no start on first crank" issue. It turns out we were running power from the wrong Miata ignition switch and triggering power to a lot of things on run but not also on start.
We mounted the rollover valve on the fuel tank cover. It looks OEM.
I made an appointment to get the ECM programming certified by a GM dealer next Monday. The next day I take it back to the smog referee. I'll report how the goes.
Old 03-27-2018, 10:01 PM
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Obtaining an invoice from a GM dealer stating that the ECM has the OEM programming was a huge headache and took two trips to dealers. That cost about $275. I won't go into the details, but it's done. I got it. All of the smog ref's issues have been resolved except a couple of error codes from an O2 sensor, which I'm fixing now. Swapping the G8 cats out for the GTO cats is causing majors headaches. So far that has caused at least 8 error codes, and they are all mostly related to the placement of the O2 sensors. Essentially all four were too far back, by only about 4 inches. It's nuts how sensitive they are to placement. We added new bungs and moved them forward, which has solved most of the codes, except the two right now. Anyway, still making progress. Oh, a rock chipped the windshield which caused it to immediately crack. So a windshield is in order. Not complaining though. The old one had the usual pitting from many miles. Onwards...
Old 03-27-2018, 10:37 PM
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So close.

On the O2 sensor location, what is the specific distance the ECU appear to prefer?
I have heard several distances from the collection point (not the flange bolting) and am wondering if that could have caused my first two sensors to give intermittent sensor readings and cause the computer to kick on the code.
Old 03-27-2018, 10:58 PM
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I don't have an exact answer on distances, but as close to stock as possible seems best. We moved all four O2's closer to stock and the ECM is much happier. I was just recently given the OEM distances from each exhaust port to the cats and O2's, so at some point I'll measure mine and have a better picture.

Here's what kills me... I originally had G8 cats (4) in it because I simply had those. The ECU was happy. Not a single code for them and the sniff test numbers were great. Then the ref spanked me and I had to put the GTO cats (2) in. Since then we've had codes o'plenty. But the thing that really gets me is that the four G8 cats should have been more emissions friendly than two GTO cats. So this has nothing to do with reducing emissions. It's simply red tape BS. Oh well. Rant over. Onwards...
Old 03-28-2018, 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by CARBoy
So this has nothing to do with reducing emissions. It's simply red tape BS. Oh well. Rant over. Onwards...
A perfect example of how our government works.
Thanks for sharing.
Old 04-28-2018, 12:54 AM
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SUCCESS! We passed the CARB referee and it's truly CARB legal now. This ref was much more knowledgable and could discuss all of the components and issues. Finally I can get to the fun of really driving it!
Old 04-28-2018, 06:31 AM
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Congratulations! Didn't you work with Martin in the early stages of this build?
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