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The engine bay is all done and ready for stuff to get installed.
I did put Lizard Skin temperature control spray on the engine side of the firewall then waited for it to dry for a couple of days before painting the engine bay with some factory color match paint. Worked out great and the end product looks real good. You can tell where the Lizard Skin was sprayed because it has a rough texture. In this picture you can also see the frame rails with the stiffener gussets that were welded into the upper inside corners. They looked a bit rough before paint but cleaned up pretty good. It is amazing how much cosmetic roughness paint will hide. Attachment 8530 The Lizard skin noise control product was grey but for some reason the temperature control was white. My guess is it probably comes in other colors but for some reason I did not notice and bought white when placing the order. On the under side of the car I went ahead and sprayed some flat black paint over it but since the passenger compartment will get covered by carpeting I left it white. After a little checking, the temperature control product also does some sound deadening but not as much as the dedicated sound deadening product. In hind sight I would have gotten 1 gallon of each and used the sound control inside the passenger compartment and the temperature control under the car and on the engine side of the firewall. If I ever do another car, it will be one of the things I will know. Back to the interior. The bolts that stick thru the floor that hold the subframe stiffeners to the floor feel like they will be an annoyance to my feet so I decided to put something down. For matting I went to Wal-Mart and got one of the rubberized Yoga mats. The matting got trimmed where the bolts are located (white spots) and after two layers the matting sits flush with the bolt. Should take care of any annoyance to my feet. Attachment 8531 |
nice job. just about ready to start reassembling.
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I used sound and ceramic on both inside he car and outside in the tunnel and firewall and it works great, no heat at all inside the car
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Getting the tubing for the power steering rack to fit around the oil pan took a bit of bending. All the lines were left in place but loosened slightly in case any of the ends needed to rotate. On the right side the tube hit the oil pan in two places but it was real simple to take a ratchet handle and put it between the tubing and the pan and pry it to move the tubing just enough to gain the necessary clearance. The same tube on the driver's side also had to be bent a bit to clear.
The low pressure return tube was a bit more hassle. The original bend made the tube try to go right where the new subframe sits so it took a bit more bending to get it into a reasonable location. I just straightened it out a bit until it would go on and off at the same time as the rack assembly. The Flyin Miata kit has some high pressure rubber tubing and some clamps to allow it to be routed to the return connection on the CTS-V power steering pump. I will probably do a clamp on the side frame rail to keep the tubing from getting too close to the header pipe. The picture shows the final shape of the return hard tubing. Attachment 8529 |
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The Flyin Miata instructions are pretty slim when talking about the brake lines. They simply say to bend the brake lines to clear the enlarged transmission tunnel.
I did not take a picture of the brake lines before bending but they were definitely not going to work. When you get to that point, install them and then scratch your head for a minute. There might be other ways to get the job done but I found that simply using my hands to carefully re-bend the tubes to go towards the passenger side frame rail worked out pretty well. Once they were roughly in the location I felt would be usable, I did a trial fit of the engine and found out I had to move them some more. If you look hard at my picture, hopefully you can get it bent correctly the first time. Once I was happy with the location I put a couple of clamps to keep them close to the firewall and away from the headers. At the same time I clamped the fuel line to the frame rail to keep it as far away from the header heat as possible. I also wrapped the braided line in some reflective aluminum wrap (not shown in the picture) to hopefully reflect the heat away from the fuel line. It doesn't really look like it in the picture but everything is tight against the frame rail. Edit; After doing a test fit I do not like how close to the headers the fuel line is running so I re-routed the line as detailed in one of the later posts. Doing so required purchasing a short piece of prefabricated braided fuel line and an adaptor. Attachment 8528 |
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Up next is what I am hoping is the final install of the motor and transmission into the Miata.
Feels like a really special thing and I was tempted to have a beer to celebrate. Attachment 8524 Attachment 8525 Attachment 8526 Attachment 8527 Will probably have a couple of issues to work thru. One is how to remove the chain and bolts that are tight between the engine and firewall. Guys with a lift do not have these sort of problems but us bootstrap types have it to figure out. My first thought is that I will use blocks to hold the engine in it's present location and raise the body up enough to get to the bolts. Also, still have a number to things to decide. The wiring harness is first. Having the extra long Painless Wiring Harness sure seems like a nice way to go but as I look it sure seems like the LS1 harness will work out decently well. The Painless harness would allow the ECU to mount behind the passenger seat and away from the engine compartment. That will clean up under the hood quite a bit but on the other hand it seems like the Miata main fuse box will have enough connections available to work with the LS1 harness. The Painless harness has it's own fuse box and is new and just what is needed rather than being 17 years old and needing to be modified to work correctly. |
Good progress and a good writeup.
one thing i wish i had done is enlarge the shifter opening inside the cabin so that the shifter could be removed. I ended up making the cuts with the transmission installed which made it 10x harder. maybe i missed it in your writeup, but how are you getting the wiring though the firewall? |
On the wiring thru the firewall, I haven't decided on a location yet. Still trying to decide which wiring harness to utilize. Honestly, the wiring has been the part I am dreading.
Since I have to change the location of the heater hose connections, there will be two holes available for wiring or I might put another hole in the corner of the passenger side of the firewall. Thanks for the heads up on the shifter opening. I can mark the enlargement then actually make the cut when I lower the engine to remove the rigging chain on the back side of the engine. |
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Working on the wiring.
It doesn't look like much but I have spent about 8 hours getting the wiring to this point. Trying to be careful and methodical. Ended up lowering the motor to allow decent access to the wiring locations. Much easier to run and wrap the various wiring connections cause it is real tight around the firewall area with the engine in place. Attachment 8522 With the extended length Painless wiring harness laid out about where it will go inside the passenger compartment it looks like mounting the ECU behind the passenger seat will work out really well. The harness instructions say to mount the fuse box within 18" of the ECU and they wire them so that has to happen. There are a couple of options for the fuse box and hopefully what I have in mind will be nice and clean. The passenger seat and one plastic interior panel need to be installed to verify what locations will work. Attachment 8523 |
is there enough to reach under the parcel shelf?
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If the parcel shelf is the area where the convertible top lays on when down the answer is no because I have a soft top.
If you are talking about the area underneath the shelf that has a removable steel cover, the available area is too small for the ECU There is, however, enough wire in the harness to fit behind the seat but not enough to go all the way into the trunk. Attachment 8519 Sitting behind the passenger seat against the rear panel looks like the best placement as long as the seat movement will allow for it to go there. Attachment 8520 From the second picture you can see there is a cutout in the body panel to allow access to a door closure wire. The cutout looks to be a good size for the fuse box but will require cutting the plastic interior piece that covers that opening. Edit: After installing the interior I finished up the cosmetic portion of locating the wiring harness fuse module and ECU. The opening in the chassis just behind the passenger door is hidden by a plastic interior piece and worked very well to contain the fuse module. I marked and trimmed the plastic piece and test fit it several times before the fit was just right. The wiring between the ECU and fuse module is pretty short so the ECU has to mount next to the fuses, which tied down the ECU final location to the location it is installed at. After making a couple of aluminum brackets and slicing two openings in the carpet behind the passenger seat it all got installed. The bulky bundles of wires makes the carpeting bulge a bit but all in all it worked out pretty well. Keep in mind that it will all be hidden behind the passenger seat back after the seat gets installed. The depth of the ECU is about 3" which cuts into the amount of rear movement of the passenger seat. Not a problem for me but could be an issue for a passenger taller than 6'. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.v8m...8b58c11c95.png This picture shows the location of the hole in the firewall and the routing of the wire bundle. As you can see, if I need a few more inches for some reason I could get it by running the wire bundle straight along the floor rather than snaking it around the edge. All in all I think I will be real happy with how it will clean up the engine compartment. Attachment 8521 |
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Making electrical progress on the car.
Bought an Odyssey battery. It is rated for a C7 Corvette but about the size of a motorcycle battery and can be turned any direction without worrying about leakage. The plus and minus connections are just 6mm bolts (10mm heads). Connecting it works out real well with the factory Miata cables. Just trim off the circular post clamp portion and it leaves you a flat piece of metal with the correct hole. There are several secondary connections to the plus side of the battery. The main cable connection, two red wires that go to the Painless Wiring fuse box and one red wire that goes to my home made fuel pump circuit. After taking this picture I combined the three red accessory hot wires into a single end so there are only two connections to the plus side of the battery. The factory Miata rubber cover was big enough that it could be slid over both the wires so the completed piece looks clean and neat. Edit after the fact; The multitude of wires connecting individually to the positive bolt just looks home made and trashy so I cut the ends on all three and combined them all together into one bundle with a single end connector and a nice piece of shrink wrap over the bundle to make it look nice and professional. Attachment 8512 Here is a picture of the wired connection that I scabbed together for the fuel pump power. It seems to work outstandingly well. It has an inline 30 amp fuse, a 40 amp relay and then connects to about a foot of the Miata fuel pump wire. For the light gauge portion of the relay circuit I connected the gray wire from the ECU to one side of the relay and then ran a ground wire to the other side. You can see where I grounded the wire to the fuel tank cover on the far left side of the picture. When I turn the ignition key to the first position the pump is noisy for about one second but then is nice and quiet. My hope is that it stays nice and quiet while I am driving. Also made a sketch to show a diagram of how the wiring was done. Attachment 8513 Attachment 8514 Edit: After figuring out that the fuse location is not accessible once the steel cover piece and carpeting is installed I moved the fuse location to be as close to the battery as possible. It works out well as there is just a cosmetic covering in the trunk so access to the battery area is nice and simple. Next thing I have been working on is identifying the instrument cluster wires that will need to be spliced into. The Flyin Miata instructions appear to be accurate for my year. Attachment 8515 The engine is just about ready for it's maiden start up. All the fluids are in and hopefully all the proper connections have been made. At some point in the next couple of days I will give it a test start before dropping the engine and front subframe out of the car one last time to finish up the wiring harness and fuel and brake line routing and covers. Attachment 8516 It is tough to tell from the pictures but I am real happy with the amount of space between the frame rails and the headers. The passenger side is tighter than the driver's side but both have enough space to work. Driver's side Attachment 8517 Passenger side Attachment 8518 |
Not much visible progress to report but did do the first test start and it went smoothly.
My wife was standing by with a fire extinguisher in case the worst happened but no need. The car started and ran smoothly. Since the cooling system is not in the car yet, the run was only for about a minute. Checked the gauges and they seem to work. The engine has 50 lbs of oil pressure at cold idle and no smoke at cold startup or idle so it looks like I got a good motor. After killing the engine and letting it cool down for a few minutes while I looked everything over, I started it up again in first gear to make sure the transmission and differential work. Both seem quiet and worked, at least for the short test start. The one gripe I do have is with the Flyin Miata electrical instructions. The descriptions for some of the hookups are simple. Hook up this ECU wire to this specific Miata wire. If the instructions get beyond that level of complexity they rely on verbal descriptions that are very confusing. A couple of simple pictures or sketches would keep a home swapper from lots of wasted time and hair pulling. The tachometer and speedometer instructions gave me real headaches. I am going to send them an e-mail with a couple of sketches that I feel would make the tie in connections much easier to understand. Also, I purchased some Dynomat sheets to use in addition to the Lizard Skin product that was sprayed in place a few weeks ago. The noise insulation situation needs more than just spray insulation and the adhesive backed sheets should work well in areas where the spray insulation was not utilized. In particular, the area behind the seats where the fuel tank resides was not touched during the conversion process so it was not sprayed. Some of the Dynomat should help the road noise coming from that area. Edit; How ever much sound insulation you utilize, please go ahead and add some more. A single layer of Dynomat was not enough. In hind sight I wish I had sprayed Lizard Skin into the trunk and the area underneath the soft top ledge. Something I did not like was the routing of the fuel line that came with the Flyin Miata fuel kit. Looking at the video or the completed Flyin Miata car shows the fuel and brake lines running along the inside of the passenger side frame stiffener channel that runs the length of the underside of the car. Up near the front where the front subframe bolts to the chassis is a tight area and the hose is routed in this area, VERY close to the exhaust. I just do not like this hot area for fuel lines so I ran the line on the outside of the frame rail and up the inside of the fender well then drilled a hole between the inner fenderwell and the engine compartment. This made the supplied braided fuel line too short so I purchased a 6AN coupling and 12" piece of braided line to get enough length. There appears to be plenty of clearance between the fuel line and the tire even at full lock but I will probably also install a plate cover to give additional protection to the fuel line. Most of my time has been spent on simply making stuff neat and covered and as close to factory look as I can get. In order to stay well organized I am trying to work from the back of the car forwards to finish up one area before moving on to the next. Some ordered parts are still rolling in and I do still have to order a bunch of stuff before finishing up. Early on I ordered a huge wad of parts and found out that too much stuff lays around for weeks and weeks waiting to be utilized so now I am ordering stuff about a week before I feel it will actually be needed. With a one car garage it is real important to keep everything organized and only have the things you need. Before ordering the radiator and intake and exhaust, my plan is to get the interior finished up. Based on that timeline, my guess is that it will be late July before ordering the big stuff to finish the car and the car should get done around late August or early September. Now that I have gotten past the areas that were my big worries before starting the project (dash removal, electrical), my one worry is about getting the Air Conditioning up and running. Going to purchase the Flyin Miata kit but everything about the installation has me worried. The wiring instructions for this area are much more complicated than any other wiring related instructions and the kit looks to be way more than just a simple bolt up and it is done situation. Guess we will see. The previous worries ended up requiring more patience instead of being complicated. One thing I can say is that I have learned some new skills, which is something that puts a smile on my face. |
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As mentioned above, there are a pile of small projects that are presently being worked.
One example is a cover for the transmission opening in the tunnel. The opening is trimmed as shown in the picture because someone pointed out that unless it is trimmed, you will not have access to the shifter plate unless you drop the transmission. This is a big deal when you change the transmission fluid because you add the new fluid by removing the shifter cover (not thru the level hole). Also, if you ever decide to change out the shifter you need access to the top plate and four bolts. Edit; This modification has been a huge help and one I would recommend anybody doing a T56 swap do. Can't even tell you how many hours of time this has saved me over having to remove the transmission to change out the shifter. Attachment 8509 It just takes a simple plate with a hole centered on the shift lever. The hole looks a bit scabby because of the method I used to cut the hole. Don't have a cutting torch unless I borrow one so the hole was cut with a cutting wheel by making a bunch of short straight cuts that are connected and then cleaning it up as much as possible. Gets the job done but not the prettiest solution. Rather than struggling with nuts on the underside, I went ahead and tapped the holes in the plate. Attachment 8510 Because it was in excellent shape I decided to reuse the Miata rubber boot. It should fit properly under the console. The Z28 boot was supplied with the transmission but it just looked too large and I was worried there might be interference problems. A coat of black paint to keep the plate from rusting in the future and a few bolts and it looks decent. For the final assembly I also put a bead of Silicone sealer to keep any moisture from seeping into the passenger compartment and causing problems with the carpeting. Attachment 8511 |
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Another little project that is not directly involved with the swap but falls under the category of "might as well do it while the car is apart" is to add the capability to flat tow the car if desired. For me, it is mostly of an easy way to get the car home if it breaks down.
To that end I have fabricated two brackets that weld to the front cross member of the car. Since I work at a steel fabrication shop and we have a plasma burning table I got the operator to cut me a couple of brackets while he was cutting some other stuff. They ended up being 1/2" thk., which is thicker and heavier than necessary but will get the job done really well. Edit; Each of the brackets should have gotten a second hole installed towards the bottom to facilitate the installation of a safety chain mounting point. Attachment 8505 Because I am already trimming the cross member to gain clearance for the Corvette cold air intake, the bracket welds in place fairly easy. In hind sight I could have made the contact surface a bit larger and welded them directly to the car but my original plan was to weld them to the replacement support angle that re-connects the two sides of the framework. After mocking up the cross support it became clear that the brackets need to be as far away from each other as possible to get good triangulation for the actual tow bar to attach. Attachment 8506 My next worry was how well the front bumper cover installs with the additional brackets in place so I did a test fit while the brackets were just tacked in place. It works out very well because the location allows the cover to slide in place real easy without any contact at all. Attachment 8507 Attachment 8508 It all seems to fit up properly but I need to remove the cover and install the cross angle and weld everything together. Since I am waiting on the cold air kit from Flyin Miata, it seems best to not actually weld everything until test fitting the intake. The other thing I did to be able to tow the car is to add a little black box with to wire connection that lets the car tail lights mimic trailer lights but not back feed the electrical system. Checked on the internet and bought a kit for about $40. Did not take any pictures but it installed real easily by tying in to the wiring harness that sits right behind the driver's seat. Spliced in the box connections per the instructions and everything works out really nice and clean. Run the 4 wire bundle up to the front of the car and make sure to have enough length to hook to the tow vehicle connection. Did not take any pictures but the electrical stuff installed nice and easy. The box location ended up being right next to the relay and breaker that were previously added for the upgraded fuel pump. |
I have read that towing any car with a T56 is bad for the trans. Might have to disconnect the driveshaft?
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I was curious about the tow hooks too, did you cut out the mounts for the stock front "baby teeth"? These seem pretty beefy (heavy). Hopefully you are not planning to get towed home too often ;-)
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Originally Posted by Flavaquero
(Post 23618)
I have read that towing any car with a T56 is bad for the trans. Might have to disconnect the driveshaft?
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Originally Posted by pj_mcgarvey
(Post 23619)
I was curious about the tow hooks too, did you cut out the mounts for the stock front "baby teeth"? These seem pretty beefy (heavy). Hopefully you are not planning to get towed home too often ;-)
As part of the modification for the Flyin Miata cold air intake kit, the front cross piece that the bumper cover bolts to gets trimmed to allow room for the Corvette Plastic Intake. I simply cut a bit wider on the same piece of sheet metal and then welded the towing brackets in place before installing the replacement angle support. Yes, the brackets are quite a bit thicker than necessary but that is what the shop had on the burning table when I needed the brackets cut. Could have just as well gone with 1/4" or 3/8". No, I am not planning on getting towed home often but did want to plan for the possibility of flat towing the car in the future. Sort of a "Might as well do it while messing with that area of the car". At one point I debated having a bolt on bracket so that nothing would be visible when not being used. If I don't like the look when it is all done, that is still an option. |
Sorry, some refer to the little nubs for the two hooks as "baby teeth".
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Just a small amount of progress over the weekend.
The factory front sway bar mounts will not work with the CTS-V front accessory drive because the harmonic balancer tries to take the same real estate as the sway bar. To that end I fabricated new mounts that move the sway bar just enough further forward to clear the balancer with 3/8" of clearance. Could have bought beefed up mounts or even a different sway bar from Flyin Miata but doing custom mounts is really simple. Just a couple of short pieces of 4" x 3" angle, with two mounting holes in each welded to the front subframe. Used a piece of flatbar to box in the angle just to make sure it stays where it belongs. The area underneath the front subframe needs to stay open so that a bolt attaching the upper a-arm can be removed if the need ever arises. Covered it with some black primer/paint to keep it from rusting but it will eventually be the same color as the rest of the car. Just need to finish up the last bit of welding after the cold air kit arrives. The black paint makes it tough to see in the picture. The white rag is just to keep paint splatter off other stuff. Attachment 8503 Attachment 8504 |
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On the routing of the fuel line, this picture shows where the line ended up coming thru the fenderwell and into the engine compartment. The placement gets plenty far enough away from the header heat. I also had to get a coupling and 12" line extension piece because the Flyin Miata hose is too short for the routing I utilized. If my car would have had ABS, there would have been some hardware right int he same area I picked to run the line but in that case the fuel line had several other good places it could have been located.
Attachment 8502 |
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The engine compartment wiring is 99% cleaned up and has sleeves installed and taped. Rather than use the old plastic stuff that came on the old LS1 harness I utilized new Painless Wiring sleeves that I got with the electrical harness. They look like they will hold up way better than the factory plastic stuff because they are some sort of heat resistant weave material.
This is a view where I put the main harness thru the firewall and into the passenger compartment where the ECU is located. You can see a short piece of factory plastic sleeve on the left and the newer weave stuff on the right. I ran short of the new stuff and so had to run this one piece of old stuff next to the fuse box. Attachment 8501 |
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The air conditioning radiator and power steering radiator are roughly installed where they will be located but neither have brackets attached so that they can be moved as needed when the actual radiator and cold air intake gets installed, hopefully this weekend. I needed the power steering radiator to be connected so that I could start the car. Didn't want to run the risk of starting the car with no fluid in the power steering pump. You can also see the tow brackets and bumper angle support that still need final welding in place after checking fitment of other front end stuff. As somebody else mentioned on another build thread, Summit Racing and JEGS both have house brand small radiators that work real well for power steering radiators. I think the one I got was less than $30 with the necessary high pressure hose and clamps.
In this picture you can see the plastic air inlet piece that hooks to the plastic front cosmetic cover with the towing brackets. Look at how everything fits together and you can see why I removed more of the front sheet metal support because it allows the towing brackets to go in their location without the need to trim anything out of the way. Attachment 8500 |
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This picture shows the engine wiring harness all installed and wrapped and taped and ready for the Corvette engine covers to be installed. You can also see the little throttle cable bracket that I fabricated from a piece of angle. It works just fine but as mentioned in a few other threads, the pedal will only open the butterfly about 80% of the potential movement. Not sure how much difference it will make and if I want full movement I will have to switch out the throttle pedal and cable because the Miata pieces simply do not have enough travel.
Edit: After the initial month of driving the car got the engine and transmission removed to fix several issues (transmission upgrade and rear main seal replacement). As part of putting the car back together I removed the cover sleeves and taping from the wiring harness and reworked it to raise the main section of the wiring away from the engine heat and mounted it higher on the firewall. There is plenty of wire length available so there is no reason to make the drops as short as I did the first time. The second time I zip tied the main harness up near the brake lines and routed the drops with the engine sitting about 6" lower than it's final resting place to give a reasonable amount of slack to each of the drops. Live and learn. You can see the difference between the next two pictures. The first picture is the final engine bay. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.v8m...1fb484de3d.png This picture is the initial engine bay as the wiring harness was originally done. Attachment 8499 |
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Edit:
Will need to redo the brake booster vacuum line to add a check valve. This is a picture of the area round the brake and clutch master cylinders in the engine compartment. A bit sloppy at the moment but it will get cleaned up in the next couple of days. I need to work up a clamp or bracket to attach the two oil pressure sensors shown on the right side of the picture to the fender so that they cannot bounce around while the car gets driven down the road. You can also see my solution for mating the 1/2" engine vacuum hose to the 3/8" brake master cylinder vacuum unit. The 90 degree fitting in the top center of the picture came with either the Miata or the Camaro (can't remember which) but works beautifully to turn the corner and look factory. I did have to drill out the innards as it was originally a one way valve of some sort. The rag is just in there to flag to me that I still have work to do in that area to clean everything up and make it look as close to factory as I can reasonably get. Attachment 8496 After the insight that Tbone passed on, I bought a few items to do the power brake master cylinder vacuum line in a different manner than I had originally planned. Hopefully everything is done properly now and still looks close to factory. The (hopefully) correct piece consists of a brass 90 degree elbow that has 3/8" barbs on both ends, a check valve that has 3/8" barbs on both ends, and a 3/8" x 1/2" barbed reducing fitting. The black is where I painted the brass so it would fade away into the other black parts rather than standing out. Attachment 8497 Attachment 8498 Edit #2; Decided I did not like the look of the brass 90 degree fitting so went to the auto parts store and looked thru a catalog they had of 3/8" hoses that are pre-bent. Found one that looked about right and spent $24 to buy it. After moving the check valve and 3/8" to 7/16" adaptor as close to the engine as possible to hide them from sight the new hose was installed and fit great. The new hose came with some mesh protective cover on it for a really nice finished look. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.v8m...89f13eef4e.png |
You will need a one-way check valve in the vacuum line to the brake booster. The original Mazda hose has one built in it.
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Another little project that has taken an evening so far is putting some sound insulating product where the sprayed on Lizard Skin was not applied. Some have used hardware store adhesive sheets of insulating product but after thinking it over and looking at the hardware store stuff, I decided to spend almost $200 and use Dynomat sheet sound deadening product.
Got the main areas of the trunk and the back portion of the passenger compartment where the soft top lays. Still need to do some of the small areas but about 90% of the area has been covered. This is the final thing to be installed before actually re-installing the interior of the car so it definitely gives me a feeling that progress is being made. Attachment 8493 Attachment 8494 The area right behind the seats got covered in multiple coats of Lizard skin but I decided to put down some of the Dynomat just because I will have enough left to make it happen. The picture was taken after the two large pieces were installed but I should have enough to cover the smaller perimeter areas as well. Just have to see this evening. Attachment 8495 My opinion is that it seems a whole lot of road noise comes thru that area while driving so I wanted to give that more sound deadening than other places. One additional item I will do is to put some loose fiberglass insulation into the areas between the trunk and passenger compartment that allow easy passage of road noise from the rear end of the car into the passenger compartment. Edit: After driving the car for a while I can say that all the additional sound deadening has made a world or difference while driving the car. I can actually hear the radio and road noise is very minimal. I do hear a small amount of noise that is the fuel pump cycling but I feel the insulation reduced the background noise to no more than 1/4 of what it used to be. |
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Most of the weekend projects were done on the front of the car.
After receiving the Flyin Miata Radiator kit and cold air intake kit I was able to test fit everything and put the cross support angle where it will fit and (hopefully) work with the front plastic. If it interferes, the plastic will have to be trimmed because there is no other real estate the support can be located as best I can determine. The radiator was test fit and mounted before the angle support was welded so that I could be sure everything was fitting well together. The Flyin Miata instructions say to take the radiator lower support brackets and move them forward so that the front hole in the front subframe bolts the rear hole of the brackets in place. Initially I tried that location but it did not work well. ended up temporarily clamping the radiator where it appears to need to go and then mark and drill new holes for the radiator support brackets. Once that was located the air conditioning condenser was placed in front of the radiator using the front support holes. I then placed the power steering cooler coil in front of that and mounted it to the front sheet metal that sits just in front of the radiator. After all that was located and I was happy it all fit in harmony all the pieces were removed and I painted the front sheet metal with some rattle can paint to match the rest of the car. This picture shows the first location of the support angle before I determined it would not fit properly. Attachment 8491 This is the final location after painting. Attachment 8492 |
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The other project I got mostly done over the weekend was mounting the cold air intake.
I asked on another thread how much of the plastic bumper needs to be trimmed but did not get a specific answer. What I found is that the whole inside of the bumper needs to be removed leaving just the outer shell. Not much strength in the plastic in case of a wreck but even less strength after removing the inner plastic. Attachment 8488 The next picture has the bumper piece as well as the intake installed. Note that I marked about 1" away from the final position of the intake as this amount of clearance is necessary to be able to remove the intake without removing the bumper. Necessary for changing the air filter. Attachment 8489 This picture shows a clearer shot of how much clearance I trimmed around the intake. Attachment 8490 Once I get the radiator hoses and heater core installed I will be able to start the car and verify there is nothing leaking in the cooling system. |
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One project that ended up taking all evening was something that showed up when I installed the steering shaft onto the steering rack.
Every time you turn the wheel the shaft retainer bolt would hit against the motor mount heat shield. In case you don't know the exact area, it is on the driver's side where the header is real close to the motor mount. A heat shield must be installed to keep the header heat from melting the mount rubber. Due to how far along the car assembly is I had to remove the shaft and driver's side header to remove the heat shield. If I had known in advance I could have modified the shield to gain the necessary clearance way back when the engine was first installed onto the front subframe. You can take a look at the picture to see the area I modified but the metal was cut enough to bend the offending area inwards so it can still act as a heat shield. Didn't need much. The picture shows the area but does not really show clearly how much to bend. I took a hammer and tried to recess the area about 1/8". Couldn't get a good picture of it installed. Just one of those simple little things that it would be great to know about in advance. Attachment 8487 |
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For some reason it seems like a lot of the remaining projects take about 2 hours to complete. Just the right time to get it done in an evening after dinner.
Did the install of the fender braces. Used V8 Roadster braces, which are a nice pretty orange color. No idea why since they will be hidden by the fender. One odd thing I noticed while installing the braces is that when the braces were fabricated the V8 R logo is reversed so that it reads mirrored from how it should look. Both sides are that way. Maybe I have a "unique" set of braces. Good thing they are hidden and nobody but me will ever know. Attachment 8485 About a week after receiving the braces from V8 Roadster I received an e-mail that Flyin Miata has a newer design piece that looks to me to be more effective but I already got these so used them. They fit well but there were no installation instructions. Good thing YouTube is handy. I did mark the location of the hinges before removing the lower bolts but a test shut of the door after putting the fender back on shows that the hinges moved slightly. Guess tonight's project is removing the fenders to get to the bolts that hold on the hinges so that I can tweak them a bit to get the door back to working smoothly and easily. Edit: I tried to put stiffer door stops on the car as I have heard they stiffen up the car but when I tried them they simply would not work. My car seems to be plenty tight with the original stops so I guess the new ones will just get put into my pile of unused pieces. Attachment 8486 |
When you open the door, you'll see the red braces peek out at you, reminding you they're there. You've been moving at a pretty fast pace lately - keep it up!
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PJ, the more I look at the bright orange the more I am tempted to remove them and paint them a nice disappearing flat black or maybe gray to match the other underside paint.
The color just offends me. If they were still new and unused in the box, I would send them back to V8 Roadsters and buy the newer Flyin Miata style. Something I wanted to add that was installed on the car at about the same time as the fender braces is that I fabricated and installed a drive shaft loop. Nothing that is really necessary for a street driven car that will be putting out about 400 HP but it is just a little safety feature for my peace of mind. One time many years ago I was at the drag strip and saw a car that had a front u-joint failure shortly after launch and the memory has stayed with me. The idea is to keep the car from pogo sticking if the front u-joint fails while the car is travelling down the road. Attachment 8483 Attachment 8484 After installing the loop I slightly trimmed the factory heat shield that goes in the same area and put it back in place but it is just too tough to get a good picture of the under side while the car is on jack stands. |
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Well, I worked on and off over the weekend and got the engine compartment 99% complete.
The final heater hoses need to be installed but I need to install the heater core into the passenger compartment, which cannot happen before the carpet gets installed. Can't install the carpet till I install a driveshaft loop because it will bolt thru the transmission tunnel with bolt heads inside the passenger compartment. That would have happened over the weekend but I had to return the borrowed welder. Just little things that stack onto each other. The front clip got installed but it will have to be removed when I put the cold air intake in place for good. Can't install the cold air intake because I have to use the LS1 style MAF until I can get the car tuned. Attachment 8480 Did have two little head scratchers that finally got squared away. First time I wired up the fans I did it incorrectly because I thought the Camaro ECU sends a low voltage signal to trigger the fan to kick on. WRONG. After checking out a couple of other threads where the fans were connected up incorrectly and how they fixed the issue I found out that all the ECU wire does is to act as the ground to complete the circuit so I rewired the fan power as shown in this diagram. I am not an electrical person by any stretch of the imagination so I did my sketch in a nice simple style that I can understand with no abbreviations of wiggly lines. I am not absolutely sure that the relays are necessary and perhaps the same thing could be accomplished by simply running constant power to the fan and connecting the black fan wire to the colored ECU wire but I worried that could expose the ECU to enough amperage to fry the computer and did not want to chance that. Somebody with better electrical knowledge could perhaps chime in and say for sure. I also found out that after a few times kicking on the 20 amp fuse would blow so I switched them out for 30 amp fuses on the presumption that the spike in startup amperage was momentarily bumping over 20 amps.Attachment 8481 The Flyin Miata Radiator is supposed to have a 1/8" NPT tapped boss so that the cylinder head cooling passages can be vented back to the radiator. I got the Radiator last week and transferred the rubber grommets from the old radiator and then test fit it to make sure everything was good before tossing the empty shipping box in the trash. While installing the radiator I looked all over it multiple times and just could not find the tapped hole. Gave up and drilled & tapped the boss next to the upper hose connection because I could put duct tape thru the opening to trap any aluminum shavings. Got it all together and ran the engine fro 10 minutes to make sure everything was working properly as the engine came up to temperature. All good. A bit later I noticed a few drops of liquid on the floor and decided it was radiator fluid. Ran it back to the upper hose and figured the upper hose must have some sort of tiny leak. NOPE. When I put the rubber grommets from the old radiator over the bosses, one covered up the tapped hole that I had been looking for. Ended up going to the Hardware store and got a brass 1/8" NPT threaded plug and plugged off the unused hole. Actually prefer my location to the factory installed hole so plugged off the original hole. In the picture you can see the open hole on top of the radiator and my tapped hole with the copper fitting on the left side. Trying to decide if I want to paint the brass black or leave it alone. Attachment 8482 |
Well, the car is about 99% complete and assembled. Don't know that I will be doing any more pictures or posts unless I take a couple of the exhaust system installation. It will be a purchased Flyin Miata LS exhaust so there is nothing special unless there is some sort of problem. Getting the AC system up and working and a custom tune and alignment is the other things still to do but also nothing picture or post worthy.
There are a couple of things that stand out to me for people considering doing their own LS conversion into a (NB) Miata. On cutting the transmission tunnel, if I had it to do over I would probably cut out an 8" wide strip of tunnel where it meets the firewall and make a new sheet metal patch to weld in place rather than cutting and bending and welding the existing tunnel. It is the one area I feel the current method is a bit shade tree. The other thing that stands out is relocating the heater core tubing to he passenger side. My feeling is that a quality build should include that relocation because the heater hose running across the top of the engine just looks unprofessional, which is at odds with the rest of the LS upgrade to the Miata using Flyin Miata pieces. Actually has me a bit bummed out because the whole process of planning and buying parts and building the car has been such an interesting and exciting thing to go thru. For some reason I have to have something mentally stimulating to keep me interested in getting up every morning and this project has given me 9 months of brain stimulation and learning new skills. My wish some of the content in this thread will help others with their build in the future, just as other build threads have helped me to do this one. I want to thank everybody who took the time and trouble to do those threads as well as the people who have commented on my posts and kept me from (hopefully) making any glaring errors in this build. The car should be good daily transportation for me in the future. The paint has a few rock chips and parking lot door dings and the interior shows a bit of wear so it is not a show quality car, which is what I prefer for a driver. On the plus side, I never found even a hint of rust on the car even during the modification process. The car must have been a garage queen that never saw rain until the original owner sold the car a couple of years ago. If I decide to do some upgrading to this car in the future, knowing that the car is solid and straight is a really great thing. It leaves me with a bit of a quandary. Even thought the car will be garaged, my intention is for it to be my daily driver but on the other hand it might be best to only drive it in good weather in order to save the car from rapid aging due to weather. The soft top has two stress cracks in the normal areas that see the most movement as the top goes up and down so it is due for a replacement in the near future and the leather seats are starting to get age cracks probably due to not getting regular leather treatment at some time over the last 17 years so they will need recovering before that gets out of hand. I am sure there will be a few other things that need changing or upgrading as I begin driving the car. The brakes are the normal Miata brakes so they might be upgraded to the Big Brake parts if I feel there is a need. Perhaps get rid of the cosmetic hoops and install a real live roll bar, particularly if I get the itch to autocross the car. Just have to see what the future holds. Hope everybody has enjoyed this thread. |
Videos of it starting/driving/melting tires please :)
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Sorry Zaphod, I have no idea how to imbed a video. Plus, there will probably never be a video of it melting off the tires as I am an old guy that uses cars pretty conservatively. This will be my daily driver so I am not going to abuse it unless I take it to an autocross track or drag strip.
An update; The car is assembled and running but still has a few things to clean up. The exhaust system that was purchased from Flyin Miata is beautiful and shiny and actually looks like it belongs on a show car. WAY prettier than I was expecting. Only difficulty was that when it arrived some parts were missing and one corner of the box had ripped open. I contacted Flyin Miata and they are making it right and sending me replacements for the missing parts. Still waiting on the parts to arrive. In the mean time I went to the auto parts store and got $15 worth of stuff to allow me to temporarily mount the pipes that contain the catalytic converters and resonators (glass packs as far as I can tell). If I wanted a tough sounding street car I would run pipes out the back and leave off the actual muffler because it sounds really wicked. Since I want a nice quiet daily driver the muffler is a must. Also, since I will be running the muffler I don't want to take the car to be tuned until the muffler is mounted and working. Since the same place will be doing the alignment and the tune, the car is sitting in the garage and patiently waiting. Attachment 8478 One thing about the exhaust kit is that there are a total of 5 Oxygen sensor bungs located near the catalytic converters. Since I welded bungs onto the headers none of the bungs are needed. No plugs come with the kit so I ordered some from JEGS to plug the unused bungs. Edit: the Flyin Miata kit actually contains 3 plugs but they were lost with the mounting brackets when the package broke open while in the hands of UPS. Attachment 8479 After getting the exhaust installed and running the car for a while I am superbly happy with the fitment and sound. Just a nice rumble at idle and no drone when cruising along. I don't know how to post a sound clip or video but there is a video that Flyin Miata posted on youtube if you want to hear what the finished product sounds like. A couple of other small items is that the speedometer is not reading anything from the Dakota box that is supplied as part of the instrumentation kit from Flyin Miata. Need to run down the wires and make sure I have the correct wires into the box because I suspect I have something connected wrong. Hopefully a simple fix but I am not messing with it till the car is up and running. Early on I decided to go with oil pressure and volt gauge for the two accessory gauges mounted in the pillar gauge piece. Once I get the alternator to charging properly my feeling is that I should have gone with a water temperature gauge and will possibly change it out at a later time. The other thing still on my list is to get the night lighting for the accessory gauges connected to the instrument lighting circuit. Haven't decided on the best place to splice in. If anybody has a suggestion I would like to hear about it. One last item is that I need to remove the fenders to adjust the door hinges to fit properly so the doors will open and close smoothly. Both of them sagged just a bit when I installed the fender braces. Won't do that until I remove the front clip in anticipation of getting the car tuned and set up to run the LS7 MAF & IAT style sensor. |
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The hood has a set of latches from Flyin Miata (actually AeroCatch). They installed just like the Flyin Miata instructions and seem to work great. I installed them at an angle because they look good that way and mimic the look of the headlights.
Attachment 8477 |
Originally Posted by BGordon
(Post 23796)
Sorry Zaphod, I have no idea how to imbed a video. Plus, there will probably never be a video of it melting off the tires as I am an old guy that uses cars pretty conservatively. This will be my daily driver so I am not going to abuse it unless I take it to an autocross track or drag strip.
As for the video, I think it's pretty simple if you can upload to YouTube. Just put the link in your message (there may be BBCode tags to surround it with, or it may just automatically recognize it). I like the Aerocatch positioning as well. My OCD approves of the symmetry to the lamps. |
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The one remaining problem I am trying to figure out has to do with the alternator.
This is absolutely a big problem with somebody trying to utilize the Chevy Performance Cadillac CTS-V style accessory drive kit with an LS1 engine and ECU. The back story is that I installed the Chevy Performance engine accessory drive setup that is derived from the 2007 Cadillac CTS-V because it mounts the accessories 1" closer to the engine than the Z28 accessory drive mounts. This is the kit that Flyin Miata utilizes with their conversions. The problem comes in because Flyin Miata utilizes brand new LS3 crate engines which utilize computers that will control the 2007 alternator. My engine and transmission is a 2000 model LS1 engine, which utilizes a different alternator control communication. Bottom line is that the 2007 Alternator will not allow the 2000 ECU to tell it to charge. The second issue is that the 2007 CTS-V alternator has a different mounting style than other alternators so I cannot simply switch to a compatible alternator. Working on that problem with no luck so far. Contacted Chevrolet Performace but they were no help. This is the diagram they sent me of how the alternator connections work but I am dubious it is for the correct alternator as mine only has the two center pins even though it does utilize the four pin connector. Attachment 8475 Contacted Summit Racing, which was where I purchased the accessory drive thru. No help there either. Contacted a person who posted some video's on YouTube where he switched out internals from various alternators but he was not able to help. Contacted Painless Wiring since I bought a harness from them. They did not have a definite answer but suggested one of their alternator connector adaptor kits. Bought it and tried it as per the instructions. Did not work. Attachment 8476 Removed the alternator and took it to the local auto parts store I have been utilizing for the swap and had them test it to make sure I had not fried the internals. It tested out fine. Not sure where to go from here. Edit: Got it it figured out and working. Perhaps not the only or even the best solution but it worked. PJ posted and gave me a solution by looking at his build thread. Amazon can be an amazing resource with a wide range of products on a single website. They list an alternator bracket for an LS Corvette that mounts the alternator in the low position rather than up high where it is mounted from the factory. I bought the bracket to help with that portion. Next I called Summit back and explained that the accessory drive kit is listed as fitting an LS1 but the alternator is not compatible. They allowed me to return just the alternator for a refund on the cost of that one item. Next I went to the local auto parts store and bought a remanufactured alternator for a 2000 Z28 because I was not 100% sure the relocation kit was not specific to Corvette alternators and I did not want to waste a week or two via mail order swap out's if I got the incorrect piece. By getting the Camaro alternator I am assured that it will properly communicate with the engine ECU, which was the problem with the Cadillac alternator. Got all the parts and did a test fit to check out alignment and fit. NOTHING aligned. When mounted the alternator wheel is out of alignment with the other wheels and sets too far away from the engine by about 1/8", which would definitely cause the belt to do bad things. To fix that I ground 1/8" from each of the three spacers that determine how far away from the block the bracket installs. In addition to that problem the alternator housing touches the front of the engine block and keeps the last mounting bolt from being installed. The area of interference was a stiffening rib on the block so I ground the offending area by about 1/8" to give some clearance. A Corvette alternator could perhaps be smaller diameter but I don't know. The third problem is that the idler wheel that mounts to the same bracket is out of alignment by about 1/2". The bracket has a thicker pad machined in the bracket to give the correct placement of the idler wheel. I cut down the pad by 1/2" and tapped the threaded hole thru the rest of the bracket. Everything lines up and seems to work just fine upon start up. One other thing I noticed is that with the Cadillac alternator and bracket the supplied belt was really tight to install. With the usable bracket installed the belt is almost too long. I will probably take it down to the local auto parts store and see if I can trade it for one that is about 3/4" shorter in order to gain back the ability of the tensioner to have some room to keep tension on the belt as it stretches and wears. As I said, not a particularly elegant solution but the alternator is working correctly. |
This worked for me:
https://www.v8miata.net/attachments/...ine=1476978876 check out this thread: https://www.v8miata.net/v8-miata-wir...972/#post21667 |
boB,
That is the same Painless Wiring kit that I tried. No good so far. My presumption is that where the Painless diagram lists #914 Alternator Exciter they mean the wire that comes from the ECU that is listed "Alternator". Only other thing I know to try is to do separate wires (as the Chevy Performance diagram indicates) with one being constant battery feed and the other being switched battery power and completely ignore the ECU wire. Will try that this evening. Do you have any actual picture showing exactly how you connected the wires to make it work for you? Maybe I am misunderstanding the Painless Wiring diagram. |
Sounds like the problem I had, which I described here https://www.v8miata.net/general-moto...ge8/#post23708
From what I recall a 2000 LS1 might actually need a voltage signal from the ECU. Since you have a newer ECU, there may still be a pinout on the ECU that provides the 5v signal. You could test a few available ones for a signal and then tap into that, or do the voltage regulator that I did. |
PJ,
I have some slight hope that I can get the Cadillac Alternator working. Since I paid almost $900 for the kit my preference is to make use of it If not, guess my next plan is to get the mount you are using and use a 2000 Z28 alternator, which should talk to the ECU properly. What actual alternator are you using with the mounting kit? Corvette or Camaro? |
Originally Posted by BGordon
(Post 23847)
PJ,
I have some slight hope that I can get the Cadillac Alternator working. Since I paid almost $900 for the kit my preference is to make use of it If not, guess my next plan is to get the mount you are using and use a 2000 Z28 alternator, which should talk to the ECU properly. What actual alternator are you using with the mounting kit? Corvette or Camaro? |
You are using the Corvette water pump and harmonic balancer, correct?
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Originally Posted by BGordon
(Post 23849)
You are using the Corvette water pump and harmonic balancer, correct?
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Well, I have been driving the car for a bit and wanted to give an update. The alignment got done on the car a few days ago. The Flyin Miata recommended alignment specification was followed and the car appears to be electronically aligned perfectly. I was given a printout that shows it to be spot on and the car drives excellent. No pulling or wandering. This tells me that the V8 Roadster front subframe piece was fabricated accurately and correctly. The car still needs to get a custom tune but the tuner's chassis dyno is down for repairs and will not be up and running for a couple of weeks so I cannot give any actual confirmed numbers for HP or torque at this time but I expect it to be in the 325-350 HP range based on other dyno sessions that I did in the past with the 99 Firebird Formula I used to own. Driving the car is an absolutely super stupendous exciting interesting experience. I just can't think of enough positive things to say. The factory should have had (at the very least) a nice strong V6 option in the Miata. Dropping in the V8 has made the car a much nicer daily driver. Normal driving is so easy, where before just keeping up with normal traffic was a challenge. The Flyin Miata stainless steel dual exhaust is a really high quality piece that has a V8 rumble but does not have the annoying drone and vibration and noise that most aftermarket exhausts seem to have. Quiet during normal low RPM driving but a nice throaty sound when you get on it a bit. It fits underneath the car nicely and does not hang down much below the frame rails. For someone wanting a more robust sound you could take the Flyin Miata Exhaust system except delete the muffler and work up a pair of ends to exit the last few inches of the car to have something considerably louder, if that is your thing. The resonators look to me like nothing more than glass packs and it has that sort of sound. I ran the car for a couple of short drives that way before deciding that the muffler is something I absolutely want. I have only tested the full throttle acceleration once while entering a highway via an ramp and I was doing a first gear roll rather than being from a dead stop. The tires were slightly losing traction thru first and second gear but it was still running nice and straight. No bad manners that I could tell. A bit stickier tire compound would help and I could see where a person had better show some maturity to drive the car on a regular basis. Nailing it in first or second gear while going around a corner would have the rear end breaking loose, no question about it. For my purpose of a good daily driver the all season 16" tires on the car will be just fine. The factory T56 shifter was left attached to the transmission when I did the swap and I bought a Flyin Miata handle that puts the shifter knob in the same location and the factory knob and also uses the factory knob thread size. Since I am looking for a factory sleeper look that is what I want to go with. When shifting I can feel a very definite bump-bump as the transmission shifts from one gear to the next. Also, a good bit of effort is required to shift from gear to gear, not exactly what I feel is ideal. On my list for future upgrades is a shifter and a washer in the detent to make things a bit smoother. Another upgrade I am debating has to do with the gauges. All of the factory gauges are working, which is something I absolutely wanted to happen. I did install a gauge pod onto the windshield pillar that holds two gauges. Originally I installed an oil pressure gauge and a voltage gauge. My reasoning was that the factory gauges are really nothing more than glorified idiot lights that do not give an accurate reading even though they are sweep gauges. Before doing the V8 swap I had the alternator give out and got no indication from the dash idiot light that anything was wrong so I decided a voltage gauge would complement the factory gauges. Now that I have the alternator working well my opinion is that a water temperature gauge would be more useful than a voltage gauge so I ordered one to match. I will either go with oil pressure and water temperature in my 2 gauge pod or order a 3 gauge pod from Moss Miata so that all three gauges will be available along with the factory gauges. The only other upgrade still on my list is some high performance brake pads and a proper roll bar. The car currently had cosmetic dual Chromed hoops and I will feel safer with some actual roll over protection. After some internal debate I decided the factory brakes will be fine for my purpose as I simply will not be driving this car to the potential of the 350 HP drivetrain. The car is a fun daily driver, nothing more. If that changes, I can always order and install the big brake package. One thing I have contemplated is if I would have done anything different if I had it to do over again and there are a couple of things. The first has to do with the Miata that I ended up buying. It is a 2000 SE in an odd purplish maroon color that I am not real fond of. The car is in excellent condition and completely rust free so it was perfect to do a swap as there were no secondary problems to fix, something I was absolutely set on when contemplating the swap. I searched for several months to come up with the cleanest possible 1999 to 2001 Miata and finally bought this one but if I had it to do over I would have kept looking until I found an equally clean Miata in a more desirable color. The other thing was purchasing a used driveline (engine, transmission, rear differential) rather than purchasing new assemblies. It will probably take a few years before I decide if I did the right thing or not. If the driveline is reliable and trouble free then I ended up doing the right thing and saved myself a bunch of money. If something gives me trouble and I have to do a rebuild or replacement than I will know that I made a bad decision. Guess that is always the trade-off decision that has to be made when contemplating a swap of this sort. My total cost so far was just a few hundred dollars over $20,000 including purchasing the car but will end up being right at $21,000 after the custom tuning is complete. Not bad for the fun factor this car brings to my daily drive to and from work. |
Awesome to hear from an enjoyed builder
great info, now to enjoy the fruits of your labour
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