Hbwiggins

That rear seal has been a pain in my butt!

It has been a while since I have messed with an LS motor, especially putting a rear seal in... I bought a felpro rear gasket kit a while back. I put the new seal in the old cover just like I would put in any other seal. That put me almost ready to install the oil pan and at a good stopping point for the night.

The next day, I went out and started cleaning up a bit while trying to decide whether or not to paint the engine before installing it. On the ground, in a pile of trash I was picking up, I saw a piece of paper that said something like:

"WARNING - REVERSE SEAL MAKE SURE TO INSTALL CORRECTLY. SEAL IS LABELED THIS SIDE OUT. THAT SHOULD FACE THE OUTSIDE OF THE ENGINE "

I knew it had to go to either the front or rear seal so I got my flashlight out and started looking for the label to indicate what side goes out. Of course, I couldn't find writing. I pulled the rear seal housing back off and sure enough, it was in backwards. After looking at it, I would SWEAR that it would never seal the way they recommended installing it. It has a lip that is very hard to see in a picture, but a normal seal has the lip point toward the oil so it can't flow through. I went back, found my old seal, and it was installed EXACTLY like I installed this one. On disassembly, it wasn't perfectly clean around the seal but I don't remember it being terrible either. Someone put this seal in when they rebuilt the transmission at some point in the past.

Anyway... after WAY too many internet searches and different opinions, I decided to go buy a NEW, GM cover, WITH SEAL INSTALLED. This is the way to go... Only $56.00 at my local dealer. I know this one is installed correctly, comes with rear main seal, cover, block to cover gasket, and bolts. This is only a little more than I paid for the rear gasket set I bought.

That rear main seal had me stressed out! I really didn't want to have a leak right there after getting the car running. It's not like you can just pull the transmission out real quick and replace it. Anyway, after aligning the rear cover and bolting it down, I am hoping that I have put that issue to bed!

Hbwiggins

Just about finished up engine assembly. It is clean but looks worse in the pictures than it is. I am thinking about putting a coat of paint on it but can't decide what color to do the long block and what color to do the accessory brackets. I saw another engine somewhere where they did "cast Grey" on the accessories and it looked good. It was a nice shiny new engine and the darker color looked right against the bright new aluminum. Mine is clean but has been stained some and is just generally not as bright.

Suggestions...??? The car is dark grey and I'm not a big fan of a color on an engine. It is too hard to keep clean. I have done semi flat black before on just the block and it looked good. Hides any oil leaks and easy to clean up. I may just leave it alone since most all of it is covered up when the brackets, intake, and accessories are all bolted up.

Hbwiggins

This should make a good victim for the swap!

523-LSX-NB

That sucks. As you stated, having to go back in later would have been much worse. Don't forget the barbell oil restrictor that goes in the oil galley (filter side) under the rear cover. Can't tell you how many times on Tech someone posts a thread about new engine build no oil pressure. It's almost always 'cuz they did not know to install the barbell restrictor.

Hbwiggins

Yep! I put a brand new one in there.

Hbwiggins

Over the Christmas holidays, I made a little progress. I removed the engine and transmission out of the car and got it cleaned up underneath. I also removed the OEM fuel lines, extra brake lines, and ABS module (gone for good).


I got the transmission crossmember modified to work with my 4L60E transmission. It fit great except where the speed sensor interfered. It fits good now.




I pulled the OEM heat shield out of the transmission tunnel and will be putting some type of spray on heat shield stuff in there before final installation. Not sure what kind yet.

I had some unexpected issues with my torque converter. It was supposed to fit my application but looks like it would fit a 700R4 better. It wouldn't go into the transmission correctly. I have a new one ordered and will be picking it up Friday morning. I didn't let that stop me. I sealed up the front of the transmission, bolted it to the engine, and stabbed it in the car. It all has to come back out anyway to get the brake and fuel lines ran.



I stuck the accessories off an F-Body Camaro on the engine to see how well they would fit. They looked pretty good until I talked to Shandelle at V8 Roadsters. I called him to find out when my radiator would be here. He is telling me that the radiator will have clearance issues with the Camaro bracket set because they locate all the accessories further toward the front of the car. I don't want to say I didn't believe him, but I had to see for myself. I held the factory radiator up there and it was all over everything on those accessories. I now have a new set of CTSV accessories on the way!! Disregard the crusty ones on the engine now.



The transmission fits great. It was lots better than I thought it would be.

I'm back to waiting on parts at this point. Cant put the rear end together without the V8 roadster brackets and axles, can measure the driveshaft until the rear end is together. Cant mock up turbo stuff until the rear end is installed. Cant put the intercooler in until the radiator is here... At least I just picked up the factory mazda proportioning valve for these cars WITHOUT ABS. This weekend should get the brake lines plumbed anyway.

Hbwiggins

I got a little more done than I thought I would...

Got the brake lines done... Just have to tighten them up and hope for no leaks! The OEM non-ABS proportioning valve fits good behind engine. It let me get rid of most of those brakes lines and clean it up under the hood. I need to get some stainless brake lines while I have it apart.. Any suggestions?






I was really wanting to keep the OEM shifter in the car and have it work correctly. It took a little doing, but I finally got it figured out. I have not painted anything yet or really cleaned them up don't complain too much about them looking rough. The OEM shifter was on the right side of the transmission and my shift arm is on the left. The shifter also moves toward the rear of the car when moving to park from any of the gears. Once I flipped the factory camaro shift arm to the top instead of the bottom and modified it a little, I was able to get the arms moving in the same direction. After that, I had to fab up a linkage. I needed to be able to adjust the "stroke" of the shifter to make the gates line up correctly with the detents in the transmission. The factory linkage has an adjustment deal that is meant to adjust forward and backward. After some cutting and welding, it now lets me adjust it up and down, effectively letting me get the gates working right. I have a hiem joint on the transmission end that I can adjust to get the length perfect. It seems to shift great now. I pulled it all back out to clean it up and get some paint on it.

Hbwiggins

My manifolds came in and I test fit them. Seems to work pretty good. I like these because the will accept an OEM 2010 Camaro collector gasket. This should actually seal... I have ordered some of that Cerakote ceramic product to coat the manifolds with. We will see how that turns out...


The fuel pumps fit nicely into the factory bucket. I added an extra hole to feed the bucket. I am going to run one 255 pump to each fuel rail, come out of those and into a regulator, and then back to the tank. Should be plenty of fuel for whatever I do.


Driveshaft Shop axles showed up also! I ordered them to use the RX8 hub and upright.


Lizardskin CI. This is their ceramic insulation. I have heard good stuff about it in the past. I did the front part of the car and tunnel now and will come back and to the rear of the car after the turbo and muffler stuff gets mounted.

Update on the turbo: I decided not to use the turbonetics turbo I had when I started looking into getting oil back to the pan from the turbo. I couldn't get happy with any of the solutions out there. There are really nice turbowerx pumps that are supposed to have the reliability issues fixed but then you have to worry about check valves on the feed line, smoking on startup, blah, blah, blah. I have had my eye on one of the Comp Oilless Turbos for a while anyway so I bit the bullet and ordered one. Their stuff looks really good. Billet wheels, aluminum center sections, NO OIL REQUIRED, mount in any orientation, only requires antifreeze. Maybe pics of that will be coming soon!

rennurx

Builds looking good!

Could I be a pain and ask for some pics? Looking for the clearance from the fire wall to the two last exhaust ports. Passenger side should be closest.. Just trying to see how much room there is from them to the firewall. And also the height of the exhaust ports compared to the frame/ innerfender part.

If you wouldn't mind snapping a fee pics! Thanks!

Hbwiggins

This picture shows the distance from the firewall to the head fairly well. I had to dimple the firewall a little for it to clear. Not very much though. I can't believe how much room is BEHIND the intake! It's only close on the sides.

I don't have a good picture of the exhaust ports in relation to the frame rail but you can kinda tell from this one.

Hbwiggins

That tab for the ABS has since been removed. The pinch weld is pretty think all down that frame rail and could be trimmed up and re-welded if you need more clearance. The ports for the water pump point right below the pinch weld if that helps.

rennurx

Okay thanks for the help. I'll be running twin turbo and I'm planning on running the turbos in each corner of the engine bay, at the firewall so just curious how much room I'll have. Thanks again!

Unk577

Do you have experience with the Holley Dominator? I have the HP on mine, but we'll be putting a Dominator on a Typhoon soon. I was wondering about trans control, I know the engine software is the same.

Hbwiggins

Good luck with those two turbos up by the firewall. I don't think there will be room for them there but you may find a way to make it happen!

On the dominator software, I have not messed with it much. Most of my time has been spent on hp tuners or FAST. I want to learn it so I figured putting one on this project would be a good way.

Hbwiggins

I have been trying to make steady progress with this thing...

got the fuel lines mounted...


got the transmission cooler mounted







FINALLY got the rear end braced up and the 8.8 mounted.

Doing this rear end has been a real PITA! It was supposed to be a simple swap but.... The complete center section I had for an "03 Cobra" turned out to be for a 99 cobra. That means instead of a 3.55 gear and 31 spline, it was 3.27 gear and 28 spline. It also had some broke spider gears! My axles are already here and I really wanted 31 spline so I set off to find a 31 spline carrier and a 3.55 gear. This meant having to pay labor to set it up, buy bearings, a carrier and a gear. All stuff I didn't plan on having to buy! I started looking on ebay and found an Auburn ETCED electric locker that is still posi traction when not turned on. These things were like $720 everywhere I looked and I found one for $350 shipped new in the box. Sounded good to me. I found a new FORD 3.55 gear from a local guy. At least this way, I have ALL new stuff now. I had a rear cover that has the main cap braces built into it. It may be overkill, but I was gonna use it instead of buying one that didn't. This meant I had to modify the back of the cradle to clear that cover. While I was fabbing / welding, I boxed in a support for the 8.8, braced the front mount, made some more room for exhaust by the lower control arms, and added a few gussets to the crossmember like the RX-8 cars have. It should be plenty strong now... I hope...

That took care of most everything in the rear. I am STILL waiting on my turbo so I can fab up the exhaust and intercooler tubing.


We went ahead and pulled the front bumper cover and support. I think I am going to do away with the OEM support all together. I bought some 1.25" aluminum tubing to bend up and make a new support and a mount for the Intercooler. Thinking I'll have it where it will bolt up where the old support bolted to the ends of the frame rails. I'll be working on that part soon.

ALSO... Put stainless brake lines on the car and got all the brake bleeding done! I can't believe it, but no leaks anywhere after making all those lines... I hope it stays that way.

SupaDupaSteve

wow! you're making killer progress. I can't wait to see this car driving.

Hbwiggins

Finally got my turbo!



The intercooler is going to mount here i think. I'll know for sure after I get my tubing brought to the front from the turbo. The mount I made should let the intercooler twist in the chassis slightly without putting it in too much of a bind. The OEM bumper support is going to be tossed. I'll build an aluminum version after I get the intercooler mounted for good. I already have some 1/4" thick aluminum plates mounted to the ends of the frame rail for a starting point.

Underdog

Wow! Loving the excellent progress and thank you for all of the detailed pics and explanation. Good luck and I can't wait to see more!

Hbwiggins

I got a few good pictures tonight after a little progress! This is the fun stuff!

Hbwiggins

I used the factory exhaust hangers to mount the u-bend that connects the muffler to the turbo. There are 4 hangers back there. That should hold everything up nicely. I am now officially ready for my exhaust guru to come handle the rest of the system. If he doesn't come on fairly soon, I think ill just tackle it myself. A buddy and I got the turbo, muffler, and tailpipe done tonight in a couple hours.

Hbwiggins

I mounted the wastegate last night... This should tie in nicely with the exhaust coming back to feed the turbo.

Underdog

Mmm! Fantastic!

Gator Bait

does plumbing the waste gate into the exhaust flow cause any issues or change anything that has to be accounted for in setup? I like the idea. Just wondering why I don't see more of it.

Hbwiggins

The exhaust will first go to the turbo then directly off there to the wastegate. It will be a straight shot from the inlet of the turbo. From what I have read, the wastegate works best like this. The quicker you can get the exhaust off the turbo, the better it controls it.

I read it on the internet... It has to be true.

Hbwiggins

Looking at those pictures my shop looks terrible.. I need to have a day of just cleanup!