Gunpilot

Tore it apart and put back together. Pretty large shaving in oil pan and caught in the strainer. Before I dropped the pan I flushed with 10QTs of cheap oil.

What really suprised me was the mark in the middle of the pan. Looks like clearance was off just a bit on the newly shaped pan. The crank appears to have made a small notch. Not too big, but noticable.

Pan dropped


Groove in the pan from crank:

MRM331

I have always seen that warning about the gears when purchasing distributors in the past. I always figured I should go with what they recommend but never realized how bad it could actually be.

The steel gears go with all Mustang cams (stock and letter) from what I understand. The cast gears went with the other (non-H.O.) 5.0's found in station wagons and such.

This is a bummer, I hope you get all your little bits out.

Best of luck,
-Jason

Gunpilot

Got about 200 miles on the car now. Fun to drive! I am having a heat issue right now. I have a 190 degree thermostat and will watch the water temp climb to 220-230 if I stay stopped for too long. I just ordered some hood vents to install that will hopefully help let some of that hot air escape.

I am also going to try and swap radiator and condenser positions. Currently they are set up like the Monster build directs them (condenser in front of radiator).

I will let you know how it turns out when I do it. Probably another month before I can get to it.

charchri4

Hey I was wondering what happened to you and your build. Glad you have it back rolling! Did you come up with wheels and tires yet for her?

I had all kinds of heat issues with mine too. How is your ducting? The vents if placed in the right spot will help but ducting makes a world of difference even sitting still. Check out this post:

Jim and Jenna build diary, Miata LS1 Conversion: LS1 Miata Cooling 101

Sorry to plug my own build in your thread but I think it might help your over heat situation as it did mine.

Gunpilot

Cool. Thanks for info. So basically you just created a large scoop around the radiator to fuller the air thru and had vents on the hood to allow the hot air to push out.

Any pics of the car now with the bottom of the radiator scoop trimmed away?

charchri4

Exactly. You make ducts to channel all air flow through the radiator. Any air that gets around it just raises the pressure under the hood and slows the air flow through the radiator.

I cut 1 1/2" off the box so it just hangs about 1" below the bumper on the ends and 3/4 in the center. The chicken wire is 1/2" grid. I also cut 2 more slots in the hood just behind the headlights.

Sorry she needs a bath really bad!

Gunpilot

Put the car in storage for 2 months and just took her back out. Started right up no issues and drove it back to the house from my shop. An hour later, I went to start it and it would not fire up. Turned over strong, but would not fire. Fuel and spark seemed good. Starting fluid would not even cause a pop.

Seems like something is getting hot? After sitting for half a day it fired right up. This is very strange. Most ignition parts are new. Coil, distributor, cap, rotor, EFI module with relocation kit, etc all new.

Did it again yesterday. Fired up, drove it, shut down, and would not start again until it sat overnight.

Any ideas?

tbone heller

Did you replace the stator (also called a pick-up coil)? I usually replace that when I replace the module.

MRM331

On one of the cars I built I had a problem with the 20 year old starter wire not being able to send it's full 12 volts down to the solenoid after the car was driven. When the car was cold it would start right up but after even a 15 minute drive it would need an hour or two to cool down.

The bad wire was the one that trips the solenoid, not the heavy-gauge wire that powers the starter itself. To fix the problem I cut the bad wire at the firewall and used it to trip a relay which routes power via a 12-guage wire directly from the Miata power distribution box in the engine bay down to the starter solenoid on the starter. Problem solved.

-Jason

Gunpilot

I have replaced the internal module of the distibutor when I bought the distributor.

When the car gets hot, the starter cranks and I'm sure it engages because the rotor on the distributor turns. Maybe it does not turn quick enough? The engine and starter sounds just like when I crank it and it does start (nice and strong), just no ignition when its hot. Not even a little pop like it is running on less cylinders.

I may try that solenoid wire anyway just to start the trouble shooting process.

tbone heller

REPLACE THE STATOR! I have seen this a lot when I worked for Ford/Lincoln/Mercury. Cars would be towed in with a new module installed, & would not run. The distributor will have to be removed & the gear pressed off to replace the stator. Be sure to use MOTORCRAFT parts. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...917&cc=1133929

MRM331

I don't think you need to press the gear off to get at the stator. The Hall effect wheel is held on with two screws and then the stator is bolted down with two more. I could be wrong though.

Based on what you wrote I really don't think it's the wire issue I had. The best I could get was a small click from the solenoid trying to throw. If the car would turn over it would start.

Are your relays right against the passenger floorboard? They could be getting hot from the exhaust and not working until they cool.

Run a KOEO and a KOER test if you have not already to see if the ecu stored any error codes.

-Jason

tbone heller

Yes, You have to press the gear off & disassemble the distributor to replace the stator. That is the main reason that most people only replace the module & can't figure out why their car still won't start. LOL!

Gunpilot

So the stator getting hot would cause this issue? It will run all day long off first start reliably, just won't start again until it cools off.

Gunpilot

Thought I would tack this update onto my build thread for continuity since I don't think anyone is ever really DONE building their car.

New AFR heads are running fantastic, cooling issues handled, larger fuel pump installed, and AC delete pulley installed.

Also vinyl wrapped new cowl and louvered hood along with fastback top.

Time for brakes and wheels. New 11in Corrado rotors on front and 10in Miata Sport setup for the rear. Matched with Carbotch XP10's and 8's this should do the trick.

Just mounted up the wheel and tire setup recommended by Flyin Miata, and these things are SICK! 15x9 Advanti Storms with Toyo RR 225's. While I redid the brakes and stuff, I also had the fender flares vinyl wrapped to match hood and top. When the 15x10 rims come in next summer, Ill be going to this and some 245's.

I know none of this makes a difference without pictures, and as soon as this poopy Houston weather clears up, Ill get her wiped down for a photo shoot.

charchri4

LOL yep you read my mind on the photos! I thought you were running AC in the beast?

Gunpilot

Decided to remove AC when I was addressing cooling issues. The AC condenser was blocking too much air. I just drive it on nice days, and at the track anyway. I added ducted windows to help circulate air.

Pictures as promised...

Gator Bait

I really like this car.

ToySnakePMC

I think I've said this before about Gunpilot's car... but it's even more appropriate now than ever. Can you imagine this thing closing in on your rearview mirror? I'll bet C5's, BMW's, Mustangs, etc just pull over in the right lane to let this thing go by! I just love the vinyl camo wrap on fastback, hood, and flares! Love it, love it!

mazdaspeedmiata

what flares are those and tire size , wheel offset please

Gunpilot

- Flares are the Autokonexion version 1 flares (larger of the 2 option)
- Wheels are Advanti Storm 15x9 +35 (recommended by Flying Miata)
- Tires are Toyo RR's 225x45x15 (also recommended by Flying Miata)
- Behind all 4 wheels is a 1in spacer

- This tire wheel setup is fantastically light! I was surprised when the Tirerack order showed up on my front door. I almost laughed out load when I went to pick up the first wheel. Pleasantly surprised.

- Funny story about a surprised corvette. Last time I took her out to the track there was a Z06 ahead of me on the open lap sessions. Of course he pulled away from me in the straights, but not as much as he though he should. In the corners I was braking deeper and accelerating quicker, so he had no choice but to let me pass.

We had fun together for about 2 more laps when my brakes could not handle the work anymore. I entered a corner way too fast and when I hit the brakes it felt like I was stopping by dragging my feet. Had to miss the corner and go straight off into the grass. As I sat there and watched the Vette make his pass, I knew right then this would not happen again. Hence the brake setup I added (see the brakes thread). So I guess a Vette made me spend the time, money, and energy into researching, buying, and installing my new brakes. Which, by the way, stop on a dime!

MRM331

Sadly keeping ahead of Corvettes at track days has been the motivation behind most of the money I've spent on my car as well...

It is fun in the meantime effortlessly passing all the s2000's, BMW's, F-bodies, Lotuses, etc, etc...

-Jason

Gunpilot

Headed to the track at the end of the month. Been putting off fabricating some aluminum shielding to direct air thru the radiator. Finally finished it up.

Before- air could go under and around the radiator:


After - custom created side plates and a solid bottom plate. Used aluminum tape for the smaller gaps.





We will see how she runs now.