NB Miata with Ford 3V V8 4.6litre Modular Motor with Tremec 5 speed from a Mustang GT
 

This is my second Monster Miata (first one was rough as a bears a$$) aiming for a near to OEM look and feel on this.

I have a stock standard NB black on black (apart from Nexus Tablet for audio and gps etc)
170k km on original motor without a trouble in the world - I bought the car about 18months ago intending to do the V8 - its time !

I found a Ford Modular V8 in an "engine yard" close to me complete with tremec box - not the T56 but a TR3650

so far I have got the following bits nailed down

1) coilovers and custom springs from GAZ (uk based company)
2) Megasquirt 3 ecu
3) Aeromotive 340litre per hour fuel pump
4) new MSD coils for the 4.6

Still looking to figure out

rear end
brakes
power steering (use Mazda pump mounted to Ford engine or adapt Ford compressor to Mazda or go with an electric power steering pump)
Aircon (use Mazda compressor mounted to Ford engine or adapt Ford compressor to Mazda)
Radiator and header tank etc

I have got prices from Martin on his rear end kit but the shipping kills and is literally more than the component cost

here are some pics

so far I have stripped the motor down a bit and started building the custom wiring harness and adding sensors I want - since the Mustang doesnt use a coolant sensor it has a cylinder head temp sensor and an oil temp sensor (broken on my motor), the mustang dbw throttle has been replaced with a manual throttle body, new coils are on (2 bloody spark plugs are broken and stuck, waiting on summit for the lisle tool to remove them)
the motor seems incredibly clean on the inside - like no sludge or anything ! just a very clean motor internally

I am hoping to get the oem mazda motor out in the next month and start on frame rail trimming and subframe - in the meantime I hope to sort out my diff and axles (all ideas welcome) and any ideas comments on the build - ideas a bout power steering and possible electric power steering pump ?

I have never seen a 4.6 in a Miata before. I do not know the exact detentions of the motor but it looks very wide. The angle of the V on that motor looks almost 90 degree. Before you tear the 4 banger out of there do alot of measuring. I am very interested to see how this will go down. If it works the 4.6 would be a viable and cheap option for my next build.

the Modular ford is WIDE - it is a 90deg V8 - I would do this with the Modular SOHC but definitely not the DOHC

I will post some measurements later - across the OEM exhaust manifolds its .5cm narrower than a Lexus V8 with its OEM exhaust manifolds so I know the Lexus fits so this one will as well - the unknown here is the bulkiness of the Ford heads and whether they will make contact above the frame rails with anything (the gussets by the shock towers come to mind)

it will need headers - to go straight down and then turn
the frame rail corners cut (potentially frame rail lip removed) but this may not need to be done

The modular is rear sump (from the Mustang anyway) so that makes it really easy to drop in - I could modify the oem subframe but have got a V8Roadsters one on order to do most of the mockup / header build and design and such out of the car -

heres some pics of the dimensions of the engine

The engine bay is literally 27.6 inches between the frame rail inners
so as it is it wont fit, the 4.6 SOHC modular 3v v8 across the widest part of the oem ford manifolds - measures out at 70cm / 27.5 inches about 36 cm from sump base

thats obviously excluding the oem header to downpipe flanges - which wont exist on my headers - i am making new headers so will cut that clearance down by at least 2.5cm / 1 inch a side

so the frame rails may need to be trimmed for maintenance and bolt access - other pics of overall height from sump base to intake manifold are height of 72cm /28.3 inches

(yes the headers are on backwards on the motor as its easier to grab with a strap like that)

Any progress?

I thought about using a Coyote V8. Yes, I know it "doesn't fit".

I would cut away the frame rails and fabricate a tube front end incorporating the V8R subframe.

All it would take is time, money and skills.:sly:

its getting there
finished sourcing most of the parts
brakes
coilovers
ecu - busy making the rest of the harness at present
drawn up the parts for rear diff mount - waiting on laserjet cutting to be done

to check the fit I drew up the engine bay in CAD

[IMG]https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1441915087[/IMG]

its not perfectly done - need to do some more work on the subframe - but you get the idea - the frame lips are removed, I have left the corner triangles in place for an idea on clearance - I know they not triangular but have you tried to draw that shape in CAD - I couldnt my CAD skills suck

then I drew up the Modular V8 - I didnt fill in all the details just the rough shadow of the external dimensions - the sump is drawn 40mm too deep as the motor is standing on its sump on the floor so the floor of the sump is just an estimate - will keep refining

[IMG]https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1441915087[/IMG]


then I overlaid the two

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1441915087


https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1441915087

so it fits and so would the coyote v8

normal trimming will be needed on the inner bay triangles, the frame lips may stay need to work out feasability of headers and fitment
i will have to really refine the drawing and get the subframe drawn 100%
but for a start I am quite happy with the first draft
if anyone wants to sketchup drawing let me know

Awesome!! if it does work, that will be my next conversion.....still working on the first one

Wow! Nice CAD work.


Are you sure there is enough room for headers? I can't tell which part of your CAD engine is where the exhaust ports exit.

the exhaust flanges are the "white" blocks on the v of the engine
i am trying to draw them in with the flanges and some 90 degree bends but not getting much success - will keep at it

[IMG]https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1442338771[/IMG]

I know theres enough room width wise as I did a lexus v8 previously and that motor is about 20mm wider across the important part on the heads - the concern on this v8 is clutch master cylinder clearance - need to figure that next

Oh, I see.

I await the results of the rest of the fit.

For power steering, you may look into using the Miata pump on the Ford accessory drive. Its been done on an LS before, I'll see if I can find it. Other than that, people modify the plumbing between (for you) the ford pump and the Miata rack to make it all bolt up. You will likely require a restrictor in the pressure line or you will have an over-compensating system. Turn One

The LSx series of motors are 90 degree V8s. Mod motors actually have a 120 degree bank, which is why they look so different, and much wider, than other V8s.

What car did you pull it out of? Good luck on the project, I recall you talking about it.

Thanks for the info on the power steering V8droptop.

The Ford modular engines are in fact 90 degree V8's. They are just wider than Chevy LSx series engines due to the heads having over head cams (one atop each head in the SOHC designs and two atop each head in the DOHC designs, including the Coyote). Thus extending the width of the engine.

i was actually thinking of an electric power steering pump in the trunk and running the lines forward to the rack and then a return to the trunk
or else i need a ford explorer power steering pump
the electric pump in the trunk really appeals

I'll for sure be watching this thread!

Sump carnage
 

ok so to get this big a$$ mod motor to fit I need to reduce its height a bit

looking to shrink it 100mm down

i bolted the oem sump to a table - sliced off a wedge of 80mm to reduce the depth of the sump


then i gave up on that and drew the sump in trusty cad and sent that off for water jet cutting

heres a few pics of the sump being shrunk - will work perfectly but i decided to then make an ally one

also hoping to be able to remove the cmrc plates between the intake and cylinder heads to reduce height in that area too - dont want to cut the hood

[IMG]https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1446396727[/IMG]

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so the oem sump cut down worked out well enough but i wanted it better so i drew up a flat plate cutout

The water jet guy called me up too late on Friday to collect it

I need to get it bent / drilled / welded for test fit asap

[IMG]https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1446396968[/IMG]

hope it turns out the way I want it - it should have just over 4.3 litres in the sump

Rear diff mounts
 

so after debating the costs of bringing in a diff / mount / cv setup and finding that it was simply crazy - cost to me for a rear end kit was well over 5k usd all said and done - I decided to go where no one has gone before........

1 x BMW E46 M3 LS diff
custom mounts
and we worry about axles and cvs later (grafting M3 cvs / porsche 930 cvs / sandrail axle makers etc) i figure i can get something solved

I must say Martin was incredibly helpful in this regard but the total cost was just silly
so far I am into the rear end for 650 dollars (spare subframe, bmw diff and water jet cutting and new diff bushes)

what are your thoughts on this route ?

these are not the final mounts - this was a test and also got a new welder so i learnt the welders new settings - huge difference coming from an old transformer based stick welder to a IGBT transistorised one - such an improvement !

have drawn up some new mounts to move the diff back and tuck it up under the subframe

[IMG]https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1446398748[/IMG]

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sheew
feels like 5 steps backwards and 3 sideways

changing plan on sump
redoing the diff mount

In my opinion i think the diff is wayyy too low!

Some thinks me way out by using a RX-7TT rear complete, but now I have almost unlimited racing gear sets better somewhat cheaper brakes , and did I mention TOE adjustment to keep the tail happy little car in line . I loved my 02 M3 and the rear never gave me a lick of trouble. It did et rear tires however/hmmmm...too much throttle inches on my part...Keep your plan its a good one!!

Wow great progress! This is a really interesting build I love it!

+1 on the diff being at least 3 inches too low. That is easily going to be the lowest point of the car and it's not going to end well like that.

ok so a little summit box arrived with some crown vic engine mounts

they fit the motor beautifully but on the left side of the motor they wont need a lot of work to fit the v8 roadsters subframe however on the right side (where the steering column goes for me) its not going to work

I have to contend with the engine mount / aircon / starter / steering column and somehow get an exhaust through all that - from pics i thought it may work but it was always going to be dicey - but at least the left side is taken care of - check the space issues on the right hand side - the ally square tubing is an approximation of the steering shaft

[IMG]https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1450808796[/IMG]


[IMG]https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1450808796[/IMG]


so back to the drawing board for the (drivers) right side mount - I will probably keep the left side mount as it would be really easy to make work
was aiming for as much bolt on parts as possible

I am also thinking of treating the mod motor like a lsx and putting flat plates against the block and bolting ls style mounts to that and then having a pedestal come up to mount it - if i hadnt ordered a mountless subframe and were doing this again i would order up a lsx mount style subframe - so a tip for the next guy is to treat the mod motor as a lsx

I am still waiting for the water jet guy to do the sump cutting for me - the damn holidays are slowing that one down

man this is full of win, great job

ok so a few updates for now

did some wiring.....

got new mounts for the diff back - tacked those up

got the new flat pack sump back - decided i need a proper welder - this no gas mig is a splatter king

made a mount and a got a start on the underdash wiring

i am using the following items

MS3 PRO
Microsquirt v2
Dakota digital speedo converter box
Spitronics coil ignitors
innovate lc1 wideband

man I am glad I had an old Microsquirt lying around - I need it for all the extra inputs ! it will run can bus between the two ecus - I think I have gone a bit overboard
so far I am monitoring

1) fuel temp
2) fuel pressure
3) ambient baro
4) Manifold pressure
5) oil pressure
6) oil temp
7) coolant temp
8) intake air temp
9) cylinder head temp
10) exhaust gas temp
11) nos pressure

then 8 coils to fire, 8 injectors in sequential mode, 2 cams for vvt, progressive nos and traction control on the ms3 via the oem wheel speed sensors

just looking for a "Manettino" style switch to activate / de activate these features

heres some pics and if anyone has an idea how to make this neat let me know !!! its a spiders nest and only part way done !!!! it gets so untidy and chaotic so damn quick



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i got the new revised diff mount back

the previous one was way too high

this sets the diff nicely tucked into the subframe

and is relatively simple

here it is from flat pack to tack welded and this one will be welded to the top of the oem subframe - the bmw diff lower ally heatsink fins are level with the bottom of the subframe

more pics when its welded properly and triangulated



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and heres the "new" sump

drawn up in cad and then folded for a few less welds and less leak chance

i got 2 cut
this is very much the prototype - my welding sucks and so does my no gas mig welder - it splatters everything

[IMG]https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1456066993[/IMG]

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Ok so I gave up on that sump and gasless mig wire welder - all that thing does is make splatter......

So here is a new design one and i been busy on a lot of other parts of the build

thicker flange, less welds to join parts together - so far for the sump which has been the most problematic to get "right" has been done 3x.......but its still cost way less than a bought one - currently all in for the 3 sumps less than 30 dollars

Honestly I shoulda stuck with the oem sump - it would of worked just fine and saved a bunch of frustration and back tracking - but i chopped it up......

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464543895

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464543932

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so the good news is the engine is in and the mounts are welded to the sub frame

I made up some plates to fit to the engine blocks mounting points and overlaid a sbc engine mount on to that - I got a set of mounts from heidts for a sbc

if i had to do it again - i would get the v8 roadsters frame with ls mounts and get a set of engine mounts for an ls - it would be way way easier and foolproof

heres a few pics - which shows its perfectly possilbe to fit a mod motor into a miata - its not too wide - its not too long i have the mod motor front pulley 25 mm further forward than the 4cyl that was in there - if my car was lhd or auto I could get the motor back far enough to run the swaybar in the oem position - my car being rhd presents a challenge with the clutch master completing for space with the cam cover - i didnt have the budget to do a pedal box to put the clutch master in a different location - I am happy with the result so far - the height is another story though that front facing throttle body is high and will need a creative amount of work on the bonnet - I am all eyes for ideas on what to do - perhaps relocate the alternator ? and remove the cmrc plates under the manifold that will drop the intake by the thickness of the cmrc plates - anyway here are some pics

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464544542


https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464544542

the mustang tremec box fits snugly up into the tunnel with lots of space

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464544542

this is take from the side showing nothing hanging below the frame rails

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464544542

heres a few pics of the clearance around the gearbox in the tunnel


https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464544542

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464544542

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...psgf6tnhey.jpg

luckily the mustang tremec box has an external shifter that is really easy to lengthen or shorten - I need to remove about 10cm from the mechanism to have the shifter pop up in the mazda location

here are a few more pics of the clearance around the engine - particularly from above

this is looking directly down on the left hand side of the car - I removed the frame rails lip - will weld a piece over it soon

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464544875

then this is from the right hand side again looking straight down

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464544875


and then at the rear where the clutch master sits for me

the clearance to the cam cover

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464544875

heres a view looking from the front of the car down the frame rail / motor looking towards the firewall

the headers for the right hand side are going to be a nightmare
the steering column, the aircon compressor, the starter motor and the engine mount all compete for space - on a left hand drive car it would be a cake walk

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464545072

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464545072

My last build i removed the power steering and it was a bear - this one needed power steering - i lucked into a MR2 electric power steering pump as a trade for 2 EGT sensors - can I say score

so the MR2 pump will live in the boot close to the battery and a few lines to the front and bingo power steering !

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464545277

I am not sure if i will hook up everything i got from the mr2 - i have the toyota ecus and such just missing the steering angle sensor - I am sure I can run and output from the MS3 pro to it to control it via pwm

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464545277

and yip the nos line is in - nice of mazda to make provision for it in the fuel line and brake line clamps

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464545448

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here are the engine bay mods

around the steering column

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464545582

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I drew up some filler plates for the areas cut out

the steering column one will need a redoing but the passenger side is perfect

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464545582

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464545582

I also wired up the gearbox - taking the ford oem speed sensor through a dakota box and feeding that into the mazda and ms3 harness

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1464545675

then pleaseany ideas on keeping abs or ditching it ?

all feedback welcomed - anyone who ditched it and regretted it ? looking for some opinions and thoughts on it

at present I have the v8 roadsters wilwood kit for the front and the oem brakes for the rear

Good timing on the updates! I was wondering how this was going.

I have a 5.0 Coyote sitting on an engine stand in my garage just begging to be dropped into a Miata. My basic measuring says no way! The headers look to be very challenging.

Looking forward to updates!

I think I used the coyote measurements for some of my mockups and calcs
the coyote motor is much shorter in height so i think it will be an easy fit
headers for one the drivers side with aircon and starter motor and engine mount are going to be a trick - the other side (your driver side is childs play in comparison)
you can also mount the motor further back as your clutch master wont want to occupy the same space as the cam cover
treat it like an ls swap - even use ls mounts and you will be good to go

You are one fine fabricator!!

I looked at this in more detail with the Coyote 5.0. There could be a problem with the brake booster/valve cover/head with the left hand drive model as opposed to your clutch master cylinder. My only other concerns are the center line of crankshaft to the bottom of oil pan is over an inch taller than the push rod 302 (oil pan will be hanging too low?) and the headers...

thanks but its down to google sketchup - a good laser and water jet cutter
I suck at welding - have got better but if you dont weld often you lose it quickly

I think the coyote cam covers / valve covers are a bit smaller than the ridiculous 3v mod motor I have - I have plenty clearance around the brake booster and since its the middle pedal for both of us i am sure it will be ok (I will do a top down pic of where the brake master actually ends up and where that is in relation to the head, maybe the left hand drive is more to the engine bay - as to depth I have done 3 sumps to get the sump inline with the gearbox depth and then for the sump - bottom most part of the gearbox bellhousing and steering rack to be inline (I am still on the original pickup of the 3v motor - I just removed the massively long standoff it mounts to and shortened that) - will put up a pic at some stage 0 my sump floor is 5mm above the bottom most part of the bellhousing and it is barely lower than the subframe - will grab a pic soon and share it

I also spaced the subframe down 8mm

If anyone wants the cad files of the subframe spacers, sump flange, engine mount dimensions just drop me a line / pm

My biggest challenge is the height the plastic intake sits at and how to reduce that - i can remove the cmrc butterfly housing but then the manifold hits the alternator and i cant get that down far enough to mount the intake

so i need a really teeny alternator to sidemount or do I reverse the intake manifold and pick up air from the wiper cowl area ? I was hoping for a LS1 style corvette intake setup

the coyote has much less height to it

the diff is in
 

so i have finished the diff and its mounts all done and bolted in - feels sturdy for sure

here are some pics

looking from the gearbox end to the diff

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471711829

I think I will get a prop shaft made up with a cv on each end

heres a few other views of the M3 diff in the car - will probably clean up the aluminium heat sink fins that are bit damaged before the car is on the road

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the good news with this setup is I somehow lucked in and my sideshafts length is within 1mm on each side i was worried i wouldnt be able to keep it centred but i am happy with a 1mm deviation

my sideshafts are being made - the biggest outer cvs i could get for the rears - I think you call them protege outers, custom shaft and a porsche 930 inner to mate to the m3 flange - they are done in en30b steel and heat treated to rockwell 48

driveshaft shop quoted me over 1k usd for a setup like this - probably stronger outer joints - dss price excludes shipping to me which was also well over 1k usd excle the tax and import duty - I am quite happy I have done all the cvs and shafts all in for less than 500 usd

radiator and fans
 

i was looking for a radiator and found a Rx 7 radiator at our local chinese speed shop - thinking that if it could cool a rotary then this v8 will be within capabilites

the rx7 radiator is thick almost 55mm !
it fits into the oem NB Miata mounts lower radiator mounts
the piping is in the right place for the mod motor

cost was less than 160 usd

i moved the aircon condensor forward on its mounts - literally moved it further forward into the nose cavity and then put the radiator in its place so i have only moved backwards about 15mm for this thick radiator

whats not to like - any feedback welcomed - please say

I made a shroud for it and two 10 inch fans - was hoping i could do a 14 inch and a 10 inch but that wasnt going to fit

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471712273

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here are some of the aircon condensor being mounted forward on its own oem mounts just bolted from the other side works like a charm, so the condensor is under the lip of the front slam panel

http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c1...psoqxpc4cb.jpg

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whats funny is that the rx7 radiator could also be mounted upside and the oem miata top radiator mounts would hold it in place - the rx 7 radiator doesnt have a filler cap so would work both ways - just a lower support brace

heres the upside down radiator - may help someone and i think its the best and lowest cost solution for myself but it may help someone else out

Attachment 6243

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oil cooler is in
 

i got the oil cooler in as well

with a filter relocation kit as the oem filter location would of been almost impossible to get to once in - caught between steering rack / anti roll bar and radiator coolant hoses

i welded a small plate to the frame rail for the filter relocation while i was cutting and finishing that area off - the seam sealer and flash on the camera make it look worse than what it is it looks pretty good to me in the flesh - what you think ?

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https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471712578

the mr2 power steering pump got mounted too
 

the electric power steering pump from an mr2 is now mounted in the boot, i drew up a mount had it laser cut and fitted, the pump also has a mount that goes to the base - through the hole in the lower boot area - the oem for me had a plastic box and set of jumper cables and gloves in it - paaah who needs that

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471712833

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471712833

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471712833

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471712833

now to get hydraulic lines and the remote reservoir figured out

heres my expected rear shock to cv boot clearance

lets hope it actually comes out this way

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471712954

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471712954

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471712954

this is a bit out of sequence as i forgot i took these pics

i obviously cut that little lip off the frame rails for an extra bit of space but i had to steal some space back for re inforcement

i took some angle iron and welded that to both sides of the frame rails - losing about 3mm of the space i won in the first place and then once they were welded in i seam sealed it and then painted

but i didnt know some sealers you cant paint...........
lucky me for getting that wrong - espescially with my choice of primer colour - talk about a F$$^$##%^^ up


wire wheeled the non paintable seam sealer out and replaced with paintable
way too much time lost and frustration on this - worse hiccup of the build so far

some pics of the mess

before the seam sealer and paint - the test fit of components

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471713853

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471713853

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471713353

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471713353

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471713353

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471713353

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471713353

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471713353

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471713353

how the hell to get exhaust headers done
 

this is the big puzzler for this build

one side will be relatively easy the other relatively impossible
and i want long tubes......

this is going to be a headache

i tried a few things

pool pipe hoping to make a template easy enough - was planning on filling them with expanding foam in the hope of them making it to an exhaust guy

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471714389

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471714389

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471714389

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471714389

naah wasnt the easy way, wasnt going to work

I chickened out and found a set of headers on ebay for an ls1 and 4 days later they were in my hands for going halfway across the world i am impressed and the shipping wasnt expensive - shhh dont tell the seller

I figured if i can do one side for minimal effort - cut ls1 flange off and then weld to my mod motor flange and dent a few tubes its well worth it

the left hand side for me is literally that easy
the drivers side is another story

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471714389

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1471714389

will hit these up as next big milestone and get them on the motor and in the car

well -been quiet for a while.....
the motor was in - all mounted - all wired - all hooked up - all firing
then i tried to fit the bonnet - not gona happen.........

got all frustrated and yanked the modular motor out - there aint no way the hood is going to fit properly unless the hood ends up like a whale with a massive forehead - all the engines height is literally at the alternator
i tried to figure out throttle bodies, reversing the manifold - what else could be done to drop the motor down

I always knew it would be a challenge due to the height of the motor
so out goes the modular v8 in its place a toyota v12 - just as long as the modular 8 and literally 20cm shorter in height
stay tuned for next motor swap.........