Gator Bait

I have a lot of respect for you guys that go brave the bone yards. I have zero patience for inconsiderate people and a "society collapse" would likely have me in full on Rambo mode looking for a glob of grease to paint my face and a drive shaft to use for a club. It's better that I just browse for parts on the ol net and save all the hilarity of a middle aged fat IT guy thinking he's prepared to do battle in a junk yard.

5.0MX5

LOL, "Junk Yard Wars and Warriors" I can see the reality show now

Jack Sprat

It has been a long time since I have had an update. I have the newish engine painted and installed. I went with an unusual color scheme and wanted some feedback.

Gator Bait

I dig it. But being from 'Nawlins black and gold runs through my veins!

Sunshine Guy

One of the real beauties of these cars is no two are exactly alike. They are always an expression of the builder's preferences and imagination.

Viva la difference!

Jack Sprat

Thanks Gator Bait. I agree Sunshine Guy - make it your own!

charchri4

Well I'm a bit biased because if I was to start from scratch and do it all again this build is exactly what I would do. So I already like everything about it including the gold! It's a much better gold than Ford used on the 225 hp cars back in the day. +1!

Rabitz

what a great build thread. thank you so much. I may have missed it, but what car did you get the radiatior out of?

also, I am thinking of deleting my EFI and going carb...what did you do to bring fuel pressure down? and what intake/ carb did you use? and distributor?

thanks for any info!

97miatam

any updates on this awesome build?

Jack Sprat

I have finally made some progress noticeable progress:
I ported the heads, installed new valve spring kit, lapped the valves, and busted my hand up pretty bad. The latter caused several weeks in delays.

Got the heads back on, intake/carb is on, headers on, exhaust bolted on and here I am:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O7h8Vj_Qn4o

Jack Sprat

I am sorry that I haven't responded sooner. I didn't get a notification that someone posted on this thread.

The to bring the FP down you basically run the Pressure line into a Tee that connects the Pressure Line, Return Line, and Carb. I put a FP reg inline with the carb as well as a FP gauge. I found out that I couldn't get enough FP this way so I made an insert for the Return Line that will restrict the flow. Problem solved.

I am using an 84 Mustang GT intake that I hogged out pretty badly (ported a bunch) with a crappy Holley carb. Don't recommend Holleys unless you buy it new (and then maybe not) since they love to leak - even with a new kit in it.

Distributor wise, I learned a hard lesson on Cast Iron vs Steel gears. I have just installed a steel gear TFI disty with the timing locked. It's not the best solution since you will have to start it with the disty off until the engine is turning over.

The radiator came out of a 92 Ford Explorer. It is very tall and the lower radiator hose is very low BUT it will work and if you are on a Grass Roots Challenge car budget, it fits the bill.

Got more work to do but the list is getting shorter.

Jack Sprat

I had a request for the height of the motor mount base. Unfortunately, there was no easy way to show the dimension so I took the measurement from the bottom of the from subframe. The measurement is to the top of the plate where the motor mount rests.

NOTE:
You can lower the motor mount by about a 1/4" without oil pan contact. With the 84 GT intake and a duraspark disty (install a steel gear) there is room for the hood to close without cutting the oil pan.

577nitro

Jackie, it def is Hard to tell, is that 6 3/4"?

Jack Sprat

My bad. Shoot for 6 5/8 - no less than 6 1/2 if you don't want to mod the oil pan. You can go higher but you will have clearance issues.

Jack Sprat

A couple of other updates:

1 - I ported the GT40 heads that came on the newish Explorer motor. The exhaust ports are restrictive with a large smog bump in the middle. Shaving that out (shown below) will make them flow much better.

2 - I sold the GT40 upper and lower intake manifolds to a friend for $60. This puts the price of the engine at a very Grass Roots Challenge 2015 friendly price of $106.17.



Before/After (prior to polishing):

Jack Sprat

Not finished with everything but I wanted to fire it up to see if it runs. I don't think it will be able to blend in with stock Miatas. lol

Very short teaser video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rFhQaUS7Qs

Rabitz

that is the teasiest 5 seconds of my life...wish i could keep popping pennies to lift the curtain

Rabitz

Jack, I am not on a grass roots challenge, just a family money challenge, and just found out we have another kid on the way(woot!!!). I appreciate your info, and thanks for the update on the radiator and the intake and FP stuff.

I am slowly hammering getting parts. and am almost ready to start building.

I am so appreciative of this site! I am a builder/fabricator by trade, but it is not in the auto area, so I am learning so much. I can build pretty much anything...I just do not know what I need to build lol.

Jack Sprat

LMAO. Has to be quarters to lift the curtain, inflation you know.


I totally understand, I have a kid that is in college so the Miata isn't #1 on the budget list.

Congratulations on the baby on the way.

Yeah it is an awesome sight, I couldn't have done it without the help of others on here. Monster Miata was a big help as well, especially when it comes to the rear end.

Jack Sprat

For several days I had been dangling at the end of my rope because I haven't been able to bleed the clutch slave cyl. The first trans install / clutch bleeding went without a hitch. This time, after several days (a few hrs/day) of trying to get it to work, I was about ready to sell it (or worse).

Everything you read about bleeding is pretty much true BUT for some reason the master cylinder stopped working between the engine swaps. Then, I realized that loop in the fluid line makes it hard for all air bubbles to escape. I straightened and rerouted the clutch fluid line so that it has a constant slope upward. In the long run, all air bubbles will make their way to the highest point which is the MC reservoir.

Lastly (and most importantly) after being bled a few times, the bleeder screw will develop a larger gap between its threads and the SC. If you are using a Mighty Vac or cheap chinese harbor freight knock-out, it will never pull enough vacuum in the line to pull the fluid properly because it will suck air around the screw threads. Once I realized this, I wrapped teflon tape around the threads - viola, problem solved!

Slowly pumped the clutch pedal while pulling a vacuum and it bled without any problems. To be sure, I pulled a couple of reservoirs full through the line.

In a nutshell, if you want to keep your sanity, WRAP TEFLON TAPE AROUND YOUR BLEEDER SCREW. Oh, and chinese parts are garbage. Just make sure the holes are still open. Oh, NP if the teflon tape deteriorates because it doesn't seal the connection once the screw is tightened.

I hope this saves someone some grief.

charchri4

So that's why the vacuum bleeder doesn't work worth a flip! Yep I was looking for a tall bridge and a short diving board too... Made a $6 power bleeder that worked like a champ and really should have posted photos of it.

Glad you got it finally!

Jack Sprat

A little late but thanks, Jim.

I have been in a HUGE project slump where things haven't been going well. On top of that my V8 Miata's performance record hasn't really impressed me. My first engine was an 86 (low power) and only managed to squeak out a 14.25 ET.

The new engine has 350hp on paper but has had all kinds of issues (backfiring - bad TFI, leaking intake gasket, carb issues, etc) that have made it suck too. Lately, I have felt like giving up but I just walked away from it until I felt like working on it again.

I have been crazy busy but still trying to find time to get the Miata road/race worthy. I worked on it all day today (carb, fp, jets,fuel hose) and have finally made a full power test on the road. First gear wheel-hopped so I had to get out of it. When I hit 2nd gear it pulled hard then the four barrel kicked in and it really took off! It is freaking awesome!

I hope to take it to the track this coming week. Don't know if it will be quick but it'll be fast.

What I really want to say is that if you find yourself in hole, don't give up. Count your blessings on even the smallest progress. If you need help, post on this board, it is the best resource (technical & moral support) that I know and together we will get you through it. Praying always helps too.

Hope to have some timeslips/video soon.
Thanks to All!

Jack Sprat

I finally was able to take the Miata to the local drag strip. I had ET streets on it so I took it really easy off the line so I wouldn't break anything. Even with the 2 - 3k slip the clutch launches, the car did well.

I was a little worried that the short wheel base would want to do a little dance but it tracked perfectly and stopped perfectly albeit a little on the longish side with the small rotors. At the track, it takes just as far to haul it down from 105 than it does my 3700 pound Mustang from 124.

Things I learned:
* A 650 dp carb would be much better than my 600 cfm Holley
* A 2500 lb car with a V8 is fast even with a soft launch
* The poly bushings help wheel hop but a 2nd gear burnout is the way to go
* Needs a brake upgrade (knew that but it really shows up at high speeds)
* I made a ghetto Go Pro camera (2nd video) by mounting an old cellphone to the trunk lid (needs some work)
* 3.24:1 rear gears have got to go!
* Everyone loved the car - zero haters.

Miata at speed video:

First gear burnout with wheelhop. Kinda looks like the Millennium Falcon making the jump to hyperspace:

97miatam

awesome man! Glad you were able to take it out and have a good time!

charchri4

Flag on the play bro! You're killing me posting trip to the strip leaving your times out!!! 13.5?