movieboy4fun

Just wondering if anybody has used the Summit Al Radiator Kit # SUM 380353 in their Ford build. I like the fact I can TIG the inlet / outlet where I want and build my own filler neck off the thermostat housing at the highest point.
I verified size on the website of 19 5/8" X 27 1/8". 27 1/8" looks great for the width as from memory,(engineering in school long time ago), the Al will expand close to .25" in width to about 27 3/8" so still leaves me a 1/16" or so clearance between the frame rails. Just worried about the height of 19 5/8", I measured the stock rad at 19" high including the filler cap so I am sure I can make it work. Worst case I cut of a few cores and weld up the tank ends.

Any suggestions welcome.
Dean0

mazdaspeedmiata

https://www.v8miata.net/general-moto...ge3/#post15077

This one is 24x15x3

movieboy4fun

mazdaspeedmiata

Unfortunately the LS outlet location is on the wrong side for my Ford. I suppose I could switch to an early 1968 water pump,( Ughhh cast iron), and get the pump outlet to the other side but I still don't want the filler cap on the Rad, I would rather it on the Tstat housing or possibly horizontal in the upper Rad hose. I don't think a dual pass will work for me as easy. Thanks for your suggestion.

Dean0

MRM331

Unfortunately to have a multiple pass and have the inlet outlet on the correct sides Ford's need a triple pass. I looked into this but ultimately decided the added stress on the pump to squeeze the coolant through three times was not worth the benefit. I ended up fully shrouding the front of the radiator and sealing off the engine bay and the thing started cooling too well (with a single pass).
-Jason

movieboy4fun

Jason
yeah I came to the same conclusion!!

Going this direction. I am going to use this Rad.,http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/gri-1-26221-x , or possibly this model, http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/gri-1-56221-x , Specs say good to 400HP on the first, all I need on this build, however for $80 more I may try it. I may cut the filler cap off and seal as I want the filler cap at the Tstat. Will follow MRM331's advice and seal things up. Lastly I would like to add the below NACA ducts to the front area of my hood to pull out rad heat and help build a low pressure area behind the radiator. I have the mold and I think they would look cool. Opinions?




Dean0

csr_225

I'll sell you mine, but would not recommend it. That is the same griffin radiator I have in my car (cut the filler cap too, and mounted a bit forward). The nose is sealed, and have vents in the hood. It has powered my car with three different engine configurations, 2.3L Turbo Ford, stock '04 LS1, and now cammed/ported LS6.

The temp steadily rises in stop and go traffic. She drops back to 185 when I hit 45 mph for a couple of minutes, but I find myself staring at the temp gage way too often.

Looking at only dual pass rads now. The previous post has me looking at the Griffin 1-58221. (its 2 inches wider at 26" X 15.5") They have a double pass Ford version too 1-59221.

Best of luck,
Corey

charchri4

That HP rating is totally bogus because air flow in these cars is the limiting factor. You can go taller than 16 and having been there done that 3 times now I would stuff the biggest radiator you can get in the car. This guy is about what I have in my car http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gri-1-56222-f and I still get warm on the track. Never in traffic though.

So that radiator is 26 x 19 x 3 and to give you an idea of fit this is what 26 1/4 x 18 5/8 x 3 looks like.




Note the oil pan is quite a bit lower...






Now this is actually set up # 2. My current set up the radiator is lower yet in the car and tipped forward at the bottom some. I did that to clear the corvette intake runner I'm using now so this is the current set up.



However all that being said having been down this road too many times now if I was building a Ford I would run the same radiator I am running now to get the duel pass feature and just use a long hose. Lots of cars do just that from the factory and it's no big deal. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/gr...9-ls/overview/ You bend those side flaps forwards, trim them a bit for the bumper brace and it fits like an *** on a pot in the car. It's probably the biggest radiator you can really get in the car and the duel pass is well worth the $$.

If you want more detail on venting and my cooling disaster I did quite a thorough write up on it here. http://jimsmiata.blogspot.com/2013/0...oling-101.html

movieboy4fun

charchri4
Thanks for the awesome set of pics, but I can't help think we are comparing apples to oranges with Chev VS Ford installs. I met up with the V8 miata club here in Ktown, (unfortunately no LS installs), and they are all running what appears to be a re-cored Miata rad with a 3" core, in a down flow setup. When I asked about overheating, it was unanimous among the group that it was a moot point? Makes me a bit confused yet but still doing my research. We have regular 40C (104F) days here in the valley so I will see if I can get more details on the local setup.
As to the HP rating of a rad I understand the rating actually means the amount of BTU's that can be shed with a required amount of air density flowing through the core., I am still trying to get the numbers from Griffin as to how the rating was calculated. I can also take a very educated guess at the amount of BTU's my LIL' F0RD will produce and compare that to what the rad will shed, the only unknown I have is I am not sure what I can expect for air flow through the Miata front grill, obliviously less than 100% ideal. Last thing I want to do is bore everyone with science mumbo jumbo so:

If I could get a few setups posted with Rad Model / HP of engine / and Tstat size, coated headers, I can set up a spread sheet and make a guess at what actual air density is available for us to work with.
I do see a lot of builds that put a scoop in a high pressure area but do not seal it to the intake allowing for under hood pressure increase right where we don't need it. Sorry I will try and keep my obsession with numbers to my self, LOL. This is when my friends eyes start to glaze over.
Thanks
Dean0

charchri4

I think it's more what you do with the car. My first radiator set up was a duel pass just a tad smaller than what you are looking at and for the 7000 street miles I drove it no problems at all. But after waiting in line for 20 minutes and 3 passes in an autocross I was at 240 degrees. Set up number 2 is a much larger radiator and no problems on the street or an autocross but on the track after 20 minutes of going back and forth from full power to full brakes I was pushing 230. So today I spent the day fitting an oil cooler.

So you can probably get by just fine with either of those radiators you are looking at if you never push the car hard on a hot day.

movieboy4fun

Yes I will be running an oil cooler as well.

charchri4, will be interested in where you choose to put it. Not like we have a lot of choice. I have a K-spec setup, F350 setup and lastly a swapped out cooler that failed a "C of A" due to age that is 24" wide and 8" tall, fairly large to fit in but used on my fathers float plane for a few seasons.
Look forward to seeing your results, and getting rid of some of my pile of parts. The more I use the happier the wife. So many parts, amazing what collecting for 30 years can get you. A huge pile of parts that are worthless and cost money to haul to the recyclers now. Damn, This plan was NOT well thought through. LOL.

thanks
Dean0