I've got a few issues with my monster Miata.

The donor car is a 1990 A/T Miata. Engine is 96 explorer with 1985 T5. (126)

1. I've searched for hours, and I've found 3 different solutions for "Keyed hot." Martin's solution, wiring the miata white/red to pin 37/57. I've also read you don't need to make this connection at all. Then there's jason's solution, of taking the old keyed power(point 34) from the coil end and making an eyelet to connect to the miata fuse box. Also, I saw Gabriel just made the white/red a relay that goes to a pin I really didn't understand. Can anyone help me out here?
   
   
2. Where does the keyed hot lead go from the splice I made from the gray/tan and red/green on point 27 and 39 near the ECU? I am confused about this.
   
3. How do I wire my radiator fan? Into the miata harness, or the ford harness? Do I wire them in series, or parallel? I believe I wire them in parallel, but am not sure.
   
   I am not yet running A/C, but would like to in the future. I do not know if that makes any difference in my radiator fan wiring.
   
   
4. Is there any definitive way to weld my differential torque plate to the rear sub frame? Martin's guide says to loosen the bolts and illustrates the plate being as high as possible, is this all I need to do?
   
   Do I need to be concerned about my shifter placement? It sits very far back, about an inch further back than any illustration I can find, but the engine is still 1/8 from my driver's side firewall.

 

Slave cylinder mount: I bought another piece of angle iron, bent, it and drilled the holes higher for a optimum slave cylinder location. (I am Nighthawk)

 

Radiator fan: I connected a battery to the Miata fans to check correct rotation and noting wire connections. I then connected the battery to Martins fans for correct rotation and soldered the wires as indicated by the Miata fans. (Nighthawk)

 

My slave cylinder, once I got it properly bled, worked perfectly. Based on tips from others, had a machine shop drill a more inbound pushrod locator hole on the clutch fork. Drilled two mounting holes in the bell housing, ground a half moon area on the housing for the slave to fit closer, and ground down part of the mounting side of the slave at an angle to help it line up with the clutch fork. Didn't tap the bell housing to mount, just bolted straight through--might have used small angle iron piece as backing plate--been awhile. Bleed, bleed, bleed, adjust, adjust, adjust. 20,000 miles later still perfect. Biggest help was topside, adjusting the master cylinder pushrod and the stop on the clutch pedal.

And a big thing--you're not supposed to have any play in the clutch fork--it's pre-loaded, so if it feels tight that's probably fine.

 

Thanks for all the replies!

Currently have the M/C installed, will weld a brace in when I do my exhaust.

Car starts, still need a belt and some wiring, I updated my OP.

 

The constant hot is the heavy yellow wire that goes between the original mustang battery connection and ecu pin 1. It should have an eyelet with a fuselink on the end. If the fuse link and eyelet are intact just pull it back to the miata fuse box and bolt it to the main mega fuse that's held in with a 10mm bolt. If you like you can shorten it at this point or pull it back behind the firewall to build your fuel pump circuit off of. If the fuse link is bad cut it out and replace it with a fuse holder.

The keyed hot is a white/red wire in the Miata. The red/green Mustang wire is the Ford keyed hot. Tie the Mustang red/green to the gray/yellow so that it powers the o2 sensors and then create a lead that you can tie to the Miata white/red. The Ford red/green powers the main ecu relay which in turn allows the ecu to send power out over the solid red wires to most of the engine's systems. It powers the coil, tfi and (because you tied them together) hego system directly.

My install manual is downloadable at my site and can help you through some of this.

Good luck,
-Jason