NC stock suspension/wheels/tires changes

Old Dec 10, 2019 | 08:51 AM
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djwarner's Avatar
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Default NC stock suspension/wheels/tires changes

I finally got around to doing some serious tuning on my LFX NC with stock suspension.

After upping my low rpm torque some 150% of stock tunes, I ran into serious problems. From a dead stop, the rear end goes into burn out without even using the brakes and stays in spinning until I throttle the pedal. Trying to manage the torque by pedaling the car results in 0-60 times that are worse than stock times.

I ended up dialing the tune back to 130% of OEM tune to make things more manageable. Even at 150% the engine has a lot more to give but the stock suspension/wheels/tires are the obvious limits

I was watching an Engineering Explained video on YouTube explaining why the Tesla pickup had no problem out pulling an F150. In that video, he claims the maximum torque deliverable is a function of the coefficient of tire friction and weight over the wheels. Looking at the Miata's light weight and limited tire options for a daily driver, I don't see any obvious solutions.

How have you guys modified your rides to handle the ample torque available in your swaps?
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Old Dec 20, 2019 | 01:07 PM
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​​​​​​I am going a little extreme, but I am building new tubular control arms with rx8 /tbird uprights that will give me a 4x4.5 bolt pattern and a world of wheels to pick from.

It also radically upgrades my braking power.

I'm current planning on running 17x8 in front and 17x10 in the rear, with 25" or hopefully 26" tall tires, the taller tire will help with a bigger contact patch too.

Ultimately though there isn't much weight to really apply enough downforce, so I figure even with this, traction will be limited.
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Old Dec 20, 2019 | 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by walkingspanish
so I figure even with this, traction will be limited.
That is my question. If we are limited by basic physics, what else is left? I can play with the torque model below a given RPM. But what RPM?


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Old Dec 20, 2019 | 02:51 PM
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That RPM is entirely dependent on your gearing and intended usage.

For example, I'm going to do whatever I can to push the torque curve higher and neuter my low end, mostly to make it more drive-able around town, where I can keep it below 2500 - 3000. And on the track, I won't be below 3k much.

But the most truthful answer to your question, is that you just have to maximize your potential traction and beyond that, you'll need to rely on your built-in traction control (ie, your right foot).

Part of the beauty of such a beast is that not everyone can drive it, it will bite back.

PS, for the track, I'll be relying on aero for downforce at speed

Last edited by walkingspanish; Dec 20, 2019 at 05:11 PM.
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