8.8 Bushings - V8R bracket?
 

Ok - so the parts I have came from somebody else - and none came from FM (or not many anyway)...

What is the height of the Ford 8.8 bushings? I have 1.5 inches between the diff and the mounting bracket. I assume this is the V8R front bracket for the diff?

Does the V8R bracket use the standard Ford 8.8 bushings?

I hope these pictures work... Click below.

Pictures Here

What's holding the diff in place? Isn't it upside down? In the pics the subframe is upside down but the diff is right side up? or am I confused?

Mike

You are correct - I thought I had flipped it - guess not... Doh!!:lame:

This introduces another issue - have others had to grind a divot in the back of the diff plate in order for it to seat into the rear bracket? The bracket tubing and this plate hit, preventing the holes from lining up. This is the ridge where the rear holes mount to the rear bracket. See the picture here:

http://mymeanmiata.shutterfly.com/pictures/16

Problem Solved
 

Well - if there is a will, there is a way... I fixed the problem with mounting the diff in the V8R rear bracket. Those with the different (read expensive) diff plate won't have an issue.

My Mean Miata: Rearend work

Thanks for posting this concern. I, too, am going the 8.8 route, but I have yet to even touch my Mazda rear diff & suspension so I didn't have any comments to share on your question. And I have found very little detail or photos of folks installing the Ford diff until your blog just popped up. Thanks for documenting your build!

But I do have Q's for you. Why do you suggest the more expensive rear covers won't have issues when assembling & connecting to the rear V8R bracket? I have both so I will definitely do some comparisons when I get to that point.

Was it difficult confirming the 2 degrees or so of pinion angle when you welded the V8R piece in? Your roadster is going to be just fantastic. Nice work on your part.

When researching the issue, I google searched 8.8 Cobra Diff Cover and there are several that will not have the issue because of the way they are designed/cast/forged - they are expensive. If your has that "buttress" cast into it that aligns with the mounting block on the back, I am not sure of another way around grinding it down and re-welding it - other than a redesigned V8R bracket.

In terms of setting the pinion angle, I bolted it all down with the bushings and where the front bracket naturally sat on the cross member worked out well. with the unit sitting on a level work surface, I used an angle gauge on the face of the pinion flange to measure it. Clamped it, tacked it - removed the diff and burned it in... The upper and lower bushings are different sizes, so there is some slight adjust ability once welded.

Again, I have no documentation on how this is supposed to mount - I am going by what I can find online, asking questions and figuring it out.

Thanks. I'll google as you suggest! Your answers are much appreciated...