Coloskydiver

So I got my car tuned this weekend using a Diablo chip and I feel like I should have put down more power.

I have:

331 CUI SB Ford motor
Trick Flow Street Heat Top End kit that includes
-TF Cam
-TF Timing Set
-TF Twisted Wedge Heads with roller rockers
-TF Lowe & Upper Intake
BBK fuel rails
30lbs injectors
MSD Pro Billet Distributor
MSD Coil
Ford Racing Wires
75mm Throttle Body
75mm MAS air tuned for 30lb injectors

I understand that my dyno numbers are corrected but should have been at least over 300 whp. Here's the graphs and let me know what your thoughts are.

tbone heller

Looks about right.

MRM331

I don't know, I only hit 280 rwhp with my 331 while running on a stock, non-chipped A9L. My combo for reference:

-331 bottom end, dome pistons (10.5:1)
-Ford Racing E303 cam
-GT-40 iron heads (worked) with stock 1.6 rockers
-GT-40 Explorer upper/lower intake
-Explorer 65mm throttle
-Explorer 72mm Mass Air Meter
-Explorer 19 lb injectors
-BBK fuel rail, stock FPR
-Copper Motorcraft plugs
-OEM replacement grade wires, distributor, coil

I would think that your combo would net a bit more. We compared a set of shorty headers that were similar to Martin's and found that they lost about 30 crank hp over long tubes and negated the 1.72 rockers when compared to 1.6's. We even tried 1.72 on the exhaust and 1.6's on the intake adn saw no difference. That said, your chip, heads and intake should all get you more than I'm making with essentially stock components.

As a comparison, we built another car with a 306 bottom end, E303, AFR heads, adjustable FPR, Edelbrock intake, 65mm throttle and 72mm mass air with 24 lb injectors and it made the same 280 rwhp that mine did.

Another concerning thing is that both of the pulls I mentioned were on Mustang dyno's that typically produce much lower numbers than dynojets. I really do think you're off or your chip is not optimized.

I hate to send people looking on other forums, but you might want to check out the Mustang corral and see what people there are making with similar set-ups. Keep in mind their driveline loss is slightly lower with 4 less CV joints in the mix. Report back here with what you find

Good luck with it, keep us posted,
-Jason

six

kinda disappointing. What size heads are you running. I was looking at the new e-205 heads with either spyder intake or the new pro-flow xt intake. Want to run the MS ecu though. Personally would like to get over 300 either 306 high rev or 331 like your self still building mine atm though.

irishvol

You're problem is that you have no benchmark pull to compare. You really don't know what the mods did or didn't do. All Dyno machines are different but you can usually count on a RWHP number about 75% of gross. Your number is respectable. What really looks good is your torque number....very constant all the way across RPM range.

Coloskydiver

Thanks for all th input. I think the the 300 whp is a goal for any gear head and feel like I am so close. Part of the problem is that I am running at 5280 feet and NA motors really suffer from the lake of air. My corrected number was 235 or something close. I think at this point it is time for some nitrous. Does anyone have any experience with running Nitrous? I am only wanting to run a 50-75 hp shot to combat the elevation and would be nice to have the extra power when you want it. I would go with a wet system and get another tune that I could switch between. Any thoughts?

MRM331

My father claims a 25% driveline loss in a V8 Miata with a Ford driveline. I've stated this and most folks say no it's more like 15% max. With a 25% loss my car's making 373 brake (crank) horsepower. Your's is making 387 or so. I tell most folks that my engine makes 350 or so. I figure that's a safe estimate (and what a first-gen LS1 made).

My hope is that through the use of a Megasquirt I can squeeze enough more out of it to say it's making 400 at the crank.

-Jason

wreckedmiata

sounds like a great combo. i built a 302 for my mustang. it was an efi that i converted to mass air. installed a b-303 cam, cobra upper and lower intakes. it had a stock bottom end but i had a set of gt-40p heads that i found in the junk yard. i ran the ford motorsport rockers. we put it on the dyno before we did any work to it and it pulled 204 rwh. after all the work done it pulled 298rwh

sn95

Your engine seems to be running out of power pretty early for a combination with TW heads (2.02/1.60 valves?) and a TFS Stage 1 cam. I would expect this combination to keep making power right up to at least 6,000 RPM. Are you running the cam 4 degrees advanced by any chance? Did you properly degree the cam when it was installed?? Given how fat the torque curve is; you could try retarding the cam to pick up more high RPM horsepower.

engineer

Hi All,

I know this thread is older than me but here is my input as its a great question:

The car is not making any power after 5000rpm. That is way too early to be the camshaft. It is most likely an intake restriction.

1) The TFS Track Heat intake has VERY long runner to make any real power over 5500 rpm. I much prefer the TFS R Box intake if you want to make any power. This will be the first step. Car will make more power on this change alone.
2) The TF cam in that kit is a little too small for a 331 (221@50 and 0.5 in lift). I would like to see anywhere between 228-234 @ 50 with 0.6 lift for street use on a manual 331. This will extend the power range a little higher and help the car make more power after 5000 rpm. Something like a XE282 from comp cams would work. Or even better a custom cam from FTI.
3) The TF cam in that kit also only lifts to 0.5 in which leaves about 11cfm (266 vs 277 cfm) on the table on that TFS 170cc head if it could lift to 0.6in.
4) I cant see what comp is being run but it will need to be 10:1 to 10.5:1 depending on final cam election, more comp needed for larger cam
5) Fuel injectors are OK but if power lifts up they will need to be larger preferably 36-42lb to get you up around 450-500hp at the flywheel capacity
6) The 75mm Throttle body will be OK to 400-425hp after that an 80 or 85mm will be better
7) MAF should be 90mm, 75mm is smallish

With above changes the car will make around 330-370 hp to the wheels.

Cheers