YAAYYYY!!!! ........boooooooo
 

Under the car today to adjust the clutch slave rod. I've been having some noise, kind of a clattering scrapey type sound with the clutch engaged (pedal out). Everything I've read online about the T5 indicates it to be a bit noisey so I didn't give it too much more thought, but I mentioned it to the guy that rebuilt it for me and he said to make sure the TOB bearing wasn't touching the plate....hmmm??? I'd read you are supposed to have a bit of preload on that bearing, and that it should always be turning. APPARENTLY NOT! I shortened the rod about a 1/4 turn, fired it up...noise 90% gone. It changed the the feel of the pedal a wee bit, but not in a bad way. The noise is barely there at all now. Yay.

While I was underneath thought I'd check on some rattles and clunks I'm getting from the rear, the exhaust is contacting my rear brace on hard corners. Will have to live with that for now. But the real bad news is that I noticed quite a bit of grease spattered around the left rear wheel. Yup, the CV boot slipped and tore itself up on the shock mount. I presume the axle has to come off to fix that? bummer.

The stock Ford TOB is designed to rest on the fingers of the pressure plate. Not enough to call pre-load, but a little bit. That was one of the steps Ford used to decrease noise pollution.

Many aftermarket TOB's do not require that little bit of contact.

I noticed the same issue with the left rear boot. I had it replaced with an Audi boot, and then there was plenty of room. Disassembling the axle was a royal pain, and I had to drop it off at a local axle shop to get it done.
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1444878135

Did you use Martins boots Brad?

I bought Martins axles, preassembled. I noticed the tight clearance while putting the rear of the car together but thought I might be OK. I'll be using a different boot for sure.
My problem is I'm not sure how to pull the axles and the outer CV to install the replacement boot.
I'll keep Googling this but I presume something like this: (?)
1) Loosen axle nut
2) remove wheel, caliper and rotor
3) remove axle nut
4) remover upper bolt from upright-loosen lower bolt
5?)When I try to pull the upright will the end of the axle come out of the hub, or will I need a wheel puller
6?)When I get the outer axle free of the hub, will the axle some free of the differential, or do I need to remove a clip of some sort, pry with something or what?

Like I said I'm still trying to figure this out for myself and if I get stuck I can call Martin, but if anyone wants to fill in the blanks it would be appreciated.

If you saw Gabriel's agonizing video on the subject he would not agree with this but it's pretty easy really.

You are spot on up to #5. No puller needed you tip the top of the upright out far enough and the axle stub will pull through there.

If you are an 8.8 the inside will pop out of the diff with a bit of a tug but pull on the inner joint not the shaft. Not sure on the 7.5s if there is c clips but you probably know and Bob for sure will.

Now this is where you have to decide which way you want to go. The outside joint should pop off the shaft with a good whap of the hammer but as you can see in the video there have been more than one horror story if it taking all day. You could give it a try or take the other end apart. The inside joint will cost you 2 claps and a bit of grease but it is super easy to take apart. If you go inside cut the claps and the joint just slides off the end of the shaft. From there you can see the snap ring that holds the inner tripod on.

I didn't show how to do it but you can see the part numbers of the boot here. http://jimsmiata.blogspot.com/2013/0...back-half.html It should be noted that Martin said he couldn't get the boot to hold up so will not be changing his kit but I've never heard of any Audi boot failure and have over 20,000 miles on mine.

It's really not hard but is a PITA so I hope it goes well for you...

Thanks Jim. Sounds doable, I just have to figure out the axle out of the diff part.
Ya, Gabe wasn't having a fun day there.

You can carefully pry the axle out of the differential. It has a clip at the end of the splined shaft in there that will compress and allow the axle to pop out as it is pried (carefully not to damage seal, housing, etc.)

The outer axle may also need to be pushed with a puller (pusher?) to push it out of the outer hub.

Watch Gabriel's video and if I remember correctly, one CV side will simply come apart with the boot unstrapped and you can then remove that 3 bearing hub by removing C clips (again, watch the video and be careful as the 3 bearings have loose needle bearings that can go everywhere!). No hammering/slamming required. All you need is to have one side of the axle disassembled to replace one or both boots.

Thanks Mile. I recall the original axles requiring a puller to release from rhe hub, plus judging by the amount of hammering it took to get the nut started on the new axles I figure on having to use a puller.
Do you just use a small pry bar to pry out the axles from the diff?

Thanks,
Brad

Yes. It should "pop" and move out a bit. Then simply slide out the rest of the way.

I just had mine out in June (after 3 years of service) and it slid right out with no puller. Maybe I got a loose batch from Martin...

BTW while you are there put a heat shield between your exhaust and the inner joint. If you don't the heat dries the grease out and puts you on a trailer at a race track 200 miles from home...

Thanks guys. Will try and get these out this weekend.

I'll be tackling my axles soon.

Bob, what is the part number for those Audi boots? May get those and pitch the boots from Martin.

Half way down the page photo #10 in living color.
Jim and Jenna build diary, Miata LS1 Conversion: The 3rd half of the back half, 8.8 Ford axles in a Miata.

Why don't you just list the darn part number? :)
BeckArnley 103-2952
Or cross reference rear outer CV boot for a 2010 A6 Quattro 4.2l

Lets just say I've had a bad experience with that... I can't cut and paste out of a photo and I want to let him write it down wrong! http://i60.tinypic.com/2ql8j81.jpg

Thanks for the info guys.

Boots came today, so I spent some time after work tonight doing the drivers side axle. So far it all came apart pretty easy. Got the axle nut off, moved the caliper away, dropped the upright, and like Jim said, the splined cv joint popped right out of the hub. Only needed a small tap. I wasn't anticipating the alxe popping out of the pumpkin as easily, but it only took a small amount of prying with a small pry bar and it popped right out too. I carefully slid the end out of the diff and off the car. Piece of cake.
I was mentally prepared to disassemble the inner cv to replace the outer boot since I've heard how difficult it is to get that outer joint off but I thought I'd give it a try. Amazingly, A couple good whacks with a plastic dead blow hammer and it was off. Awesome.
Greased up the joint, popped on the boot, and a couple gentle taps the cv joint is back on.
Now my only problem is that I couldn't get the bands on tight, so I have to get up early tomorrow and either find a tool, or different bands and corresponding tool, or take to a shop to have the bands installed. Unless someone knows a homebrewed trick to get the bands tight.

I think it went easy for me because I was dealing with Martins axles to begin with. The stock t bird axles are maybe tougher to work on.

Local shop tightened my boots no charge. Axle back in. Total time only about 2 hrs. Relatively easy job. Now to tackle my engine tick.

Nice to know Martins axles came apart so easily. I also have to do a boot change on both axles after realizing they were rubbing on the shock body. Any advice on which bands to get that are able to be tightened without special tools?

I got one from Carquest this morning that has perforations and a hook. You use the tightest hole you can fit by hand, then use a pair of pliers to pull it completely tight. It seems a bit flimsy compared to the honda style ones Martin sent, so I went to a shop that I knew the mechanic would have the tool. I told him I would use a zip tie on the small end so I could burp air out if needed, but he ended up using one of those perforated ones. He must think they're ok to use, and they probaby are. It cost about $3 at carquest.

What kind of clamps are you using? Do they look like a wire tie or the kind you with the hook and slot that you have to crimp? Both are easy but take a different method.

For the crimp one a small bolt cutter works really well or anything that will multiply pressure in a squeeze like that. I bolted 2 small pieces of 1x1 angle in place of the jaws of my vice and used that for the last crimp style one I did.

But I much prefer the wire tie style as they are much easier to work with and can be reused in a pinch. For the wire tie style I use a vice grip, pliers and channel locks. This is going to be kind of hard to explain but here goes.

Put the vice grips around the shaft and boot where the clamp goes and set it to click shut with a good amount of force on the boot but not enough to damage the boot or clamp. Now take it off and set it aside.

With the pliers grab the clasp of the clamp with the handles of the pliers away from the strap. So holding the pliers in your hand you have the strap sticking straight out the end of the plier jaws. Now wrap the strap around the boot and thread it through the clamp. You'll probably have to let go of the pliers but you know how the go to grab the clasp now.

Now picture a claw hammer pulling out a nail. That is what is going to happen with the channel locks. Grab the strap as close the the clasp as possible and using the shaft for leverage wrap the channel locks around the shaft like you were pulling a nail.

With the the channel locks squeezing the piss out of the clamp and boot you can let go of the pliers and it won't move. Pick up the vice grips and clamp it as close the the clasp as you can. If you got the channel locks right up the the clasp before you pulled the vice grip will clear it and clamp straight across the shaft. Now keeping as much pressure against the strap as possible take the channel locks out, up and over the clasp and lock it in.

It will probably take a try or two to work through that but I've done quite a few of them that way and it works great. I hope that made sense...

Thanks Jim. That will help someone.
I'll just buy the tool for $20 next time I'm at Princess... just so I have it for future repairs...have't done the right side yet as it's still ok.