Martin's axles
 

Just a quick question about the axles for 7.5" diff. Are they both the same length? I went and put them on and now wonder if each one is specific to a side? Btw, i'm having a heck of a time getting the passenger side to go onto the hub far enough to start the nut. I may look for a regular nut to pull it on so I don't have to hammer it. I've tried tapping as hard as I'm comfortable doing without damaging the CV's.

Mine were the same length for the 8.8 and I'm pretty sure he uses the same shaft for both kits.

Did you put new wheel bearings in the uprights? It shouldn't take much effort to get those shafts through.

I assumed they were the same and they weren't marked, so hopefully all is good. I got the drivers side in with a little tapping, but the passenger side is a little tighter. The axle nut won't engage but I think a regular nut will if I can find one.

Put a large socket or piece of pipe over the stub & hit it against the hub with a hammer.

Hey Tom,
That's what I've been doing but afraid of damaging the CV bearings. I may try some more light tapping if I can't find a nut to fit. I know it's on right as the threads on the spindle are coming through, just not far enough for the axle nut to engage.
The good news is that once my rotors and pads arrive, hopefully Monday or Tues, I'll be able to completely finish the back end. Then I can finally start on the front end. I needed to work this way as I'm in a cramped 1 car garage and having all the rearend stuff done buys me more space.
I may roll the car outside before removing the front subframe to do all my engine bay cuts. Thinking I'll be making a lot of dust.

Can you post a few comments when you get to the point of rear alignment? You are super close. I'm posting about a problem with excessive negative camber on another thread.

The best info I've been given is to start with the adjustment cams set at the most positive setting, adjusting the 2 cams on each side until the desired camber is reached and the toe requires slight adjustments.

I'm still unable to get mine right.
Thanks for the time.

alxes are in. I just kept tapping and turning and eventually got enough threads to start rhe nut. Impact home. Now to fill the diff and finish my brakes.

SC97M, by the time mine makes it to an alingment shop you'll have had your problem solved and be enjoying your monster. One thing I've learned here and m.net is that any problem has a solution. Stepping back, taking a breather coming back with a clear head is something you sometimes got to do.

Happy day! http://i58.tinypic.com/2vwfed4.jpg

Quick and stupid question: are there small 1/8th" diameter ball bearings anywhere in the hubs, Martin's axles, or a 7.5 tru track torsen diff? And if so, is there any way any could get dislodged and escape during installation of the axles?
I'm in a bit of a panic because while rolling around under the car last night i came across 3 loose ball bearings on the floor under the rearend. They could have come from anywhere but I'd like to rule this out before proceeding.
As mentioned earlier, I did have to whack the hubs pretty good to get the spindle nut started. As far as i can tell from an online search, everything is needle type bearings.
Thanks,
Brad

None in the differential. The ball bearings in the sealed hub bearing are much larger than 1/8" diameter.

ok, after watching Gabriel's video rebuild of his axles I knew there weren't any smaller ones, just wasn't sure about the hubs or diff, or how they could have gotten out. The ball bearings must have been from something else....I broke another 3/8th ratchet a few weeks back....maybe from that.

Ha Gabriel will be glad to know that painful axle swap was helpful to someone else! Those balls are out of the wheels on your floor jack. LOL yep I did the same thing!

Probably from the casters. I bet you are right. Good call!:sign0184:

One last thing. I bought a diff off Martin. 7.5" with eaton tru trac torsen. I've read that people suggest using 90w140 but I can only find it in synthetic. From what i've rwad, a tru trac should have conventional gear oil. Any suggestions? It looks like I may be able to get a 85w140 gear lube.
Valvoline 825 - High Performance Gear Oil | O'Reilly Auto Parts

I have an email in to eaton but no reply yet.

I have a True-Trac & have run conventional 85W-140 for several years without issue & w/ some hard road course driving. It will be fine.