Ford Axle Nuts
 

I replaced my CVs with new units and my axle nuts are not threading on as far as I would like. The nuts are about 7/8" deep and I'm still showing 5/16" of threads that aren't making it on the outer CV.

I only have them at 110 ft-lbs at the moment but I don't want to keep cranking them if I'm missing something.

Something is keeping your axles from extending all the way. Check the back and see if they're hitting on something. If not, take them apart and check for damaged or mismatched splines.

Thanks. I'll have to check next weekend. It is odd that both axle nuts are showing the same amount of threads.

OMG don't drive it like that something is way wrong!!! It should look like this.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1437589891

Well just the nut not the rest of that mess! That is the CV joint Martin said to use and I assume he told you the same part number.

That's how it looked with my old axles. I can't imagine what the problem is, especially since its like that on both sides.

Also, I (foolishly) just bought new axles for a T-bird with a 7.5" rear end. I didn't consult the manual. I wonder if that is my problem.

Either way, I'll be back in Massachusetts on Friday to dig in further.

Did I end up with two rubber seals on each axle where there should be only one? If that is the case, can I just pry off and cut off the outer, older, seal?

Dang I can't picture what that should look like in there Casey. Let me dig in my photos some for ya.

Most photographed car in the country comes through again!
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1437767339

15,000 miles later...
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1437767339
https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1437767339

Fantastic. Thank you. Looks like I'll be removing the ratty outer seal. Hopefully I can do it without pulling the hubs off.

Unfortunately the second seal was not the problem. I dug my old outer CVs out of the trash and it turns out they are almost 1/2" longer than the outer CVs on my new axles. Looks like I need to order the Cardone 60-2023 axles.

For the record, I bought ToughOne NCV11995 axles for a 1994 Thunderbird with the 7.5" rear end from Advance Auto. Apparently these are too short. It looks like I have the same problem as in this thread: https://www.v8miata.net/v8-miata-dri...line-nuts-792/

I removed the passenger's side axle from the differential without an issue but my driver's side is stuck. Anyone have any tips? I've been trying to pry it out or wedge a thick pry bar between the CV and the pumpkin but I'm not getting anywhere. Right now there is about 3/16" of play.

That may be an indication of something wrong (worn splines or something). But strap a slide hammer to the shaft and give it hell and you will see soon enough if there is an issue.

Thanks. I've been cranking on it with a slide hammer now and its not budging. I'm dumbfounded since it slipped nicely into the differential when I installed it all of 2 or 3 weeks ago.

At this point, what's my next step? Drop the diff and subframe and pull the cover to see what's going on inside?

I'm beside myself right now. So close to having this car done and one stupid axle...

I replaced my axles over the fall as part of my overhaul of my V8 and ran into this issue as well. The new solid nuts included with the new half shafts are taller than the encased nuts that Ford used on the Thunderbird. Martin's spacers keep the stub shaft from sticking far enough out of the hub surface to work with the solid nuts but far enough to work with the OEM's. I just put the OEM's back on. How have others found this to work out as of late? Are there two different Thunderbird half shafts, one with a longer stub shaft? If so please put the part number up here and I'll add it to the Ford info section.

BTW, the old style nuts can not be purchased anywhere. Even Ford will give you a new solid one if you go into a dealer looking for it.

-Jason

I have this same problem now. Torqued to 250, and look the same as the picture above. The cv looks to be fully seated based on where the seals are sitting on the outer. A little worrisome. Anyone find another option?

Which axles did you buy? I ended up tossing mine and replacing them with the Cardone 60-2023 axles. Problem solved.

Unsure of brand, this is the second set I bought. Really don't want to have to buy more.

I couldn't find another solution. The Cardone axles did have a longer outer CV then the axles I originally purchased, even though both are labeled for a 7.5" Thunderbird rear end.

Good luck!

Thanks. Not sure what I'll do. There is roughly a half inch of engaged thread, and I torqued them to 250, so in theory I should be good to go. It just does not look right with the deeper nuts and exposed thread.

I got my axles from Martin and they came with new axle nuts- the old style. Maybe give him a call. He must be able to still get them some how, otherwise he must have a solution to the issue. I don't think 1/2" engagement is adequate.

PS have you run your engine since you replaced gaskets? Leaks all gone i hope?

I looked up what axles I bought, they are GSP number NCV11995 from rockauto.

I reached out to Martin and notified him of this thread. He said he is seeing this more often. After discussing the loads placed in the hubs/axles, neither of us feel that leaving it as is would be a problem. I have roughly 1/2" of thread being used and got it torqued to spec. There is no load on the nut, so it should be fine.

Engine is not running yet, still need to reinstall cooling system once tranny is in. Finger crossed there are no leaks.

Those are the axles I ended up tossing. I didn't want any risks relating to losing an axle at speed.

Another option might be to see if you can find replacement outer CVs. The inner CVs are the same between those and the Cardone axles.

Yeah, he said he was looking in to options. We'll see.

Personally, I would want more thread engagement than that. That axle nut is what sets the pre-load on the rear hub bearing. I would want the shaft to extend past the nut so I could stake it in place or use the Ford lock nut. I have seen many rear hub bearing failures (on T-Birds & Cougars) due to loose nuts.

I'm still exploring options. Not sure on what exactly I'll do at this time.