jzogg

I bought the '96 Monster (white solid blue strip) that was for sale on Gateway, FL last spring.
The re-occurring problem i have is the engine will not start after it's hot... won't even crank as if the battery were dead... for at least 20mins until it cools down. And then it will reluctantly start. Starts fine when it's cool.
I cannot get my fingers in to wrap heat shield on the manifold... i tried heat shield wrap on the starter but it fell off after a time... and i'm reluctant to slide in a metal shield between the header and starter.
I installed an Optima battery... cables seem up to spec... and just today... i ran it up to temperature and then placed a shop vac blowing cool air down over the header and over the starter area from above and within 10mins it started.
and I've read on-line that heat... especially header heat is the enemy of Ford starters. (I even though of swapping out the starter for one of the new generation 'high crank capacity' but the top bolt on the current starter is inaccessible!... thoughts?)
I'm also planning an array of hood vents.
Any remedies without taking the engine out?
I'm actually thinking of installing a boat bilge blower (saw one used in a british sports car to provide fresh air from the front grill to the heating system... niffy installation!) with a cool air intake dedicated to blowing on the start so i can reasonably enjoy the car until a fix is found. Go to the store... flip on the fan... come out... drive away.
Thoughts? Positive, proven fixes?
Thanks....

Casey

jzogg

Casey... Thank you.
One of my options was to remove the 'old' style starter (solenoid on the firewall) and replace with a 'new generation' high crank output with the solenoid on the starter.
Thanks for confirming my thoughts!
Regards... Jon

topdownfun

I have the "new" style starter on mine and have never had a problem, even in TX heat and using AC most of the time. Knock on wood, it hasn't been out of the car since it went in 9+ years and 23k miles ago. And it was original to the engine, which came out of a '95 Mustang with 74k miles.
Regards,
TM

jzogg

TM... thanks for the additional affirmation.
I'll begin the process to change over immediately as this is the last and only thing keeping my new purchase from being an easy-to-use daily fun driver!
Jon

ToySnakePMC

hotwheels000

I had very similar issues, Old style with detached solenoid ....changed battery to larger ccc and the same thing still happened.

Solution was to run #2 wire from battery to solenoid and #2 from solenoid to starter. Haven't had any issue since.

jzogg

Devlin,
Thank you for your feedback...
I changed out the starter (stock Ford) with a new generation 'high torque mini starter' (solenoid attached)... and with the Optima battery i installed months ago... no hot start problems!!!
Jon

MX-Brad

I occasionally have a hot start drag as well ...usually only on extremely hot days after being stuck in traffic or similar. It always starts but spins slow when hot. I have the Ford mini starter. Was considering a heat wrap for the starter, but if everyone is having good luck with going heavier gauge wire I may try that.
I'm using the stock wires from the battery. Any idea what stock size is?
So if I change this out, the (-) from the battery just stays in the trunk attached to the body right? The (+) goes straight to the starter...no it goes to the alternator first I think..I forget.

.boB

Heat is the enemy of all electrical components. Put some heat wrap on that thing, or you'll be doing that job again in a few years. Keep it cool, and it will last just about forever.

MX-Brad

It appears the (+) line goes directly from the battery to the starter then the fusebox and alt. If I was to beef up this cable, can I get away with just doing the run from the battery to the starter. Would I need to beef up the (-)cable too? I don't appear to have any ground issues, just the slight drag on hot starts- possibly my slightly flickering headlights may be a symptom as well. They dull down a bit on idle.

mrmustang

Did you ever tell us if you have a quality ground strap from the engine to the chassis?

hotwheels000

Just changing to #2 from battery to solenoid and solenoid to starter did the trick for me. I am still using the stock grounding straps in all locations except from engine to chassis. I used a braided strap for the old school look. Its not a bad idea to check all grounds for clean connections and no corrosion, then replace as needed.

jzogg

I already had a substantial ground wire from the engine block to frame... and i installed (after buying the car with this 'hot start' issue) an upgraded cable (larger dia) from the solenoid to the starter.
And i do not know if the wire from the battery is Miata stock or upgraded.... appears stock the way it's bundled with other wires.
I do know, i no longer have a hot start problem with the new high torque mini starter!!