LSX Swap Using Factory Front Subframe
 

Anyone have information on this? Been searching the web for a few weeks now looking for it.

Supposedly a local is running a factory front subframe with minimal molestation just using a thin profile oil pan and a ls4 front damper.

Any info on this would be greatly appreciated.

I've seen a couple people do it but it took some hacking. I can't recall where I saw it though, unless you're really on a tight budget I think the subframe is worth the cost

I'll be honest, and no offense to any sponsors, but they are asking way too much for the subframes imo. I mean look at costs of other cars lsx subframes, they are nearly twice the cost.

Im all for slightly modifying my subframe, if you happen to stumble onto those builds again pleae do share.

I know of one that claimed to do it but didn't know how to load photos to show anyone, one in OH that probably did do it but didn't want anyone to copy him so never posted on it and a 3rd that tried it with an LS7 and gave up started from scratch.

If you have ever crawled around under one you would probably not want to try it. There would pretty much be nothing left but the control arm mounts of the stock subframe so not much point even starting with one. No question it is expensive but I think Steve is right, for all but the most talented fabricators 1100 bucks to get the most central and critical component of the build right is not too bad.

PS none of the sponsors here make or sell subframes so it's all good!

the only one thread that i know of with pics

totally not something i would try myself
good luck
LM4 T56 Powered 2001 Miata Frankenstein - Page 3 - LS1TECH

^ That is our very own V8droptop AKA Nick from Fargo/ Moorhead.

https://www.v8miata.net/general-moto...7-mx-5-a-1604/

I'm pretty sure he is using a V8R frame though.

I know I am late to the game here, but wanted to post this link for posterity's sake. That way, when someone else reads this post, the info will be here. It is the only build I found where the stock subframe was used with an LS swap.
https://www.v8miata.net/general-moto...15s-back-2242/

Galen

Hate to be a typical newbie and dig up an old thread but this one looked to be only one addressing a idea I had. I agree 100% with OP that vendors are asking way too much for subframes, $1200-2000 for a miata or $279-449 for a mustang? I'll be modding the stock one for sure.The headers seem to be same story, $600-1000 for miata or $250-500 for camaro.

Very simple production quantities and market size. When a company designs headers for a Mustang or Camaro they have many thousands of sales to absorb the engineering and productions costs they have in them. Not so with in the very specialized market of the V8 Miata. Last I asked V8R said they were around 700 frames since day 1 and I doubt Martin has much more than that out there.

trust me I have thought about that, but do you think each of the 50 different companies making tubular subframes for mustangs each sell 1000's? I doubt it, maybe a few of the larger comapnies do but the smaller ones still charge near the same price to be competitive.

I am headed down the path of modifying stock as well. I am fortunate enough to have the time, knowledge and resources to get it done.

What baffles me is the fact that V8R offers a "mount-less" subframe for $695

Add in powdercoating/mounts and hardware and BOOM you are at $1195... seriously!? The hard part is done, I dont get it.

So for that reason, rather than even simply adding the mounts to the "mount-less" frame. Ill be making my own.

Yeah I'm lucky enough to have spare stock front and rear subframes so I can mod them while stock is still in car, hopefully reducing the time the car is torn apart once all the pieces are assembled.

Nice! Although I dont know how much is to be gained by having spare subframes. Mainly because, unless you build some adjustability into the mounts for both the engine and differential, theres no other way to measure actual driveline angle except mounted to the car.

The thing that I appreciate about this forum is the lack of any box to think outside of. Chop away at that subframe and post up your results:thumbsup::thumbsup:

I might add that you have the freedom to mount the engine for optimum clearance for your particular needs. If you want, you can modify the firewall a bit more to slide the engine back a little bit more than "usual" for sway bar clearance. You can move it over toward the pass side for more steering shaft clearance which increases your options for headers.

I've found the simple biscuit mounts that Martin uses allow for more freedom of adjustment than the typical adaptor plate and Chevy style mount. No reason thay can't be used on an LS motor, with the right block adaptor.

Mike