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Donor engine acquired. 2014 Camaro with 19500 Miles. Paid $1800.00 for the complete unit. This was from a small salvage yard that wasn't prepared to do freight shipping, so I had to drive 5 hours each way to get it. While I didn't get to hear it run personally, I know that it did run when it arrived (May 2017 - not that old from a salvage perspective), and it looks pretty clean.
Yard did a great job pulling it out without damaging wiring or connectors. In fact, they simply dropped the whole cradle and loaded it with everything! The AC/Rad was still connected when I got there (but damaged - and not needed for my purposes), so I had them remove that real quick.
However, This is a much heavier package than I had anticipated. Pretty sure my 1 Ton HF hoist is not going to grab that much weight at full extension, so I'm going to have to loosen/drop a few items while it's sitting in the truck before I can remove it
Looks like you got a big pile of parts for $1800. I see the front crossmember and steering rack in there. Hopefully that mess of stuff sitting on the back of the engine over the transmission will be going away. Even seeing the actual engine thru all that crap is tough. If you can reuse the front accessory system you will be sitting really pretty. Just looking at that mess gives me a headache.
So what is the expected HP once you get it all cleaned up and (presumably) with a new performance exhaust?
Based on how wide the transmission oil pan is in the picture and where my dual exhaust pipes run, it sure looks like you will be having a shortage of real estate in that area. Back when I was originally considering a swap, that is the reason I ended up going with a manual over an automatic.
Bruce,
There is a lot I don't yet know how some of this will work out. I asked some preliminary questions of the folks at V8R and they tell me this will fit. As for the accessory group, I'm also told that the group from the Camaro (of which this is) fits, and it's the only LFX group that does.
As for power, The donor camaro does 325HP and around 275 lb/ft of Torque. I think V8R's numbers have been very similar.
The cradle/steering rack and other items are just junk that I now have to dispose of.
Hopefully that mess of stuff sitting on the back of the engine over the transmission will be going away.
Most of that is the high pressure pump and its cover. From what I've read you want to keep the cover if you don't want to be constantly hearing the pump whine.
Most of that is the high pressure pump and its cover. From what I've read you want to keep the cover if you don't want to be constantly hearing the pump whine.
-Jason
Sorry to hear that. For weight balance my presumption is that you want the engine to set as close to the firewall as possible and it looks like all that stuff takes up at least 2" of real estate behind the back of the cylinder heads. Maybe there is more area to play with on 6 cylinder installs. It also looks to add to the height of the stuff in the engine bay.
"Watch and learn" is what I am doing for the time being.
Expect me to ask more questions as I see the progress and scratch my head over things that are different from the typical V8 install.
I've got quite a bit of seat time in the silver car from the exhaust video you posted, that car made me sell my LS car to build a LFX car. You've made the right choice, they are an absolute blast to drive.
I know it's been a while since I posted, but I'm still here and slowly working on this project. I didn't get much done over the winter. Too cold in the garage. But I managed to do a few things on the weekends when it warmed up a bit. All the suspension pieces are torn apart and being powder coated. Included the rear subframe with diff brackets welded in.
Today I did some test fitting:
Still have a lot to do, but as it starts to warm up, I'm slowly getting back into it.
Most of that is the high pressure pump and its cover. From what I've read you want to keep the cover if you don't want to be constantly hearing the pump whine.
-Jason
What I've learned over the last two weekends (and advice from Shandelle) : The cover has to go. It hits the firewall if you don't. Shandelle advises the extra noise isn't noticeable.
I could use a little help/guidance from others on some alignment issues I'm having between the frame rail supports, trans mount bar and transmission. I have not drilled or permanently mounted any of this yet, just trying to test fit into place. I've got the frame rails slid as far forward as I can get them (probably too far), and I'm still about an inch or so short between the transmission and the mount. I'll link a quick video I took below. Note that in this video I do not have the trans mount/bushing in there, still just trying to get things lined up.
I presume I could re-drill the holes for the trans support, but I don't want to do that until I know I've not screwed up somewhere else
Silly question, but are the frame rail supports the same L/R (don't remember), and if not, do you have them swapped?
Thanks for the thought. They aren't the same L/R, but the offset of the trans mount plate is such that if you swapped them, it would be WAY further back. I'm pretty certain I've got them on the right side.
Do the V6 and V8 swaps use the same frame rail supports? If not, do you have V8 instead of V6 rail supports? Or, does the V6 trans support have an offset built in, and you were sent a straight V8 trans support? Essentially, do you have all the right parts?
What I've learned over the last two weekends (and advice from Shandelle) : The cover has to go. It hits the firewall if you don't. Shandelle advises the extra noise isn't noticeable.
So if the cover is removed does the firewall near the factory heater core connections not have to be modified then?
Do the V6 and V8 swaps use the same frame rail supports? If not, do you have V8 instead of V6 rail supports? Or, does the V6 trans support have an offset built in, and you were sent a straight V8 trans support? Essentially, do you have all the right parts?
After an e-mail with Shandelle, it looks like I may have the wrong rails. Not sure if LFX/LSx use same rails, but it does appear there are two different trans options on LFX. Far as I know, I'm one of the few doing this with an Auto Trans. Shandelle is reviewing his notes, but I'm guessing I'll be getting different rails.
So if the cover is removed does the firewall near the factory heater core connections not have to be modified then?
No. You'll still need to play whack-a-mole with a BFH. I unfortunately went a little overboard and knocked in some areas I didn't need to, making it a bit ugly, but you do still have to modify the area of the heater hoses. The left side head/valve cover hits if you don't. But removing the HPFP cover & insulation gives enough room to not hit the center part of the firewall (just below the VIN number).
Confirmed that the frame rails were incorrect. Shandelle sent me a new set (V8R has been very helpful to me in this process, BTW. Just want to give them some props).
And just to prove that I am waaaay to stupid to be doing this, I made a 'Redneck dolley' so I can move the car out of the garage easier for undercoating/lizard skin, etc. If I survive this, it'll be a miracle
That roller thing looks to be about a sketchy as anything I have ever seen.
Yea, even when I built it, I was questioning my decision making skills. However, once I got it set up on there, it's actually quite stable. Of course, I would never try that with the drivetrain or anything else installed. That bare tub weighs hardly anything.
Moving the car in and out of the garage is a little tricky with my redneck dollies. Just the interface between the garage and driveway (it's a pretty rough transition). But we've been extra careful going over that area and it hasn't killed me yet. Got the Lizard Skin Sound Control sprayed today. Hoping for weather to stay clear enough to spray the Ceramic layer tomorrow:
Worked on getting the fuel pump, filter and lines routed and mounted the gas tank (also got the rear suspension ready to bolt up, and e-brake cables routed, but I have a question about the pressure vent on the top of the tank. I think I understand how the feed/return lines work , but there is this pressure vent on the top of the tank that I'm not sure where to route that. Does that go to the vapor canister? Do we even keep/use the vapor canister?
09-07-2017, 03:53 AM
