Starting a cougar transplant 5.0ho
 

Hello v8m.net! I have been a member at m.net for a few years now, and I currently have a dd 91 miata with a stock 1.6snc and a project 94 auto miata. I bought the auto not running a while back cheap. Yesterday I picked up a running 93 xr7 cougar with the 5.0 ho and 8.8 rear. The cougar has 144k on it, and I am going to use as much of it as I can to help keep the build simple and inexpensive as I have many other hobbies that require my limited resoureses.

I have a small welding shop at my disposile and I'm good with the plasma, bender, and migs. I will fab as much as I can myself but I'm going to need help with a few parts.

I have not completely made up my mind to use the 8.8, I have seen several rx7s in my local scrap yards and I have heard good things about them holding up to mild v8s for respectable amounts of miles. I will at least go check the tags and see what the options are before worrying about axels and hubs.

Welcome to v8miata.net

Welcome to the obsession! Sounds like you have a great start and a great plan. I'm sure you know there are tons of good threads here on Ford builds with a wealth of knowledge. I hope you do a build thread so we can see what you are doing and kick around ideas as you go. Enjoy the forum!

Damn! I thought this was going to be about a 50year old "ho" that is a "cougar", & she was getting implants.. Oh well, welcome & good luck with your build.

^^ LOL you crack me up man!

:pimp: you know, when they get a little older, they all need some work. I wonder if I could get "cougar ho" as a personalized plate, "Cougar HO" maybe?

I have been checking out the gallery and finding lots of inspiration. I'll post a build thread when I have a couple before pics. Here's a miata before.

Turns out the rear end in the cougar is a s510a with 3.08 gears. The local scrap yard doesn't have anything better at the moment, so for now I'm planing on using the 8.8.

I have a call in at a couple place for quotes on axels. I'm open to recommendations and I would like to hear some feed back on anyone with a reasonable pricing. I'm going to stick with the stock 210hp for a good while and I don't see ever getting over 250, so I don't need mega $ axels. I have a good drive shaft shop near me but they don't do cv.

Personally I think Martins axles are the best bang for the buck. All you need are his shafts, spacers and hubs and and you are in business - Assuming your cougar cvs are good.

a510a is probably the plant code your diff was made at and won't tell you what it is.
Attachment 7245
Thunderbirds and Cougars that show an "E" axle code on their door pillar tag usually have a 7.5 inch limited slip differential. Once you see that look under the car and look at the differential itself. If it reads "3L27" it's a Limited Slip with 3.27 gears (ideal for a Ford 5.0 Miata). If it reads "3.27" it's an open 3.27. These are the axle codes on the door tag and axle tag:

Code Ratio
1.. 3.58C
2.. 3.55C
4.. 3.42C
5.. 3.27C
6.. 3.73C
7.. 3.07C
8.. 2.73C
9.. 3.31C
53.. 3.58C
A.. 3.63C
B.. 2.47C
D.. 3.42L
E.. 3.27L
F.. 3.45C
J.. 3.85C
K.. 3.55L
M.. 2.73L
R.. 3.45L
W.. 3.73L
Y.. 3.08C
Z.. 3.08L

C meaning open and L meaning Locker. If you find a K or W pick it up for me and consider it sold...

Several of us had good results with FFR axles. 4 years ago they were about $250 for two. You did have to have your hubs broached and deal with relocating the lower shock mount or source smaller outer cv joint boots.

Search is your friend. Check out miata.net, that's where the action was back then.

Added in edit: It's been 4 or 5 years since I was in the axle phase of things, but I remembered and just found this thread. Don't know how relevant it is today, but if still an option it's what I'd do. http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread...ighlight=trust

Thanks for the list of codes. My door tag has the y code 3.08
I went back to the scrap yard to check their invetory again and I found a w5 and a couple 5's no regular w. They want $200 for the pumpkin and shafts plus you pull the parts.
I couldn't read the tags well enough so I'll have to go back, pull the tags and read them. If I find an L I'll pick it up.

Wow $200 is quite a lot for a pumpkin and shafts. Jason got his 7.5 E code pumpkin at a you pull it for 50 bucks and I paid 100 for mine E code 8.8 crated and shipped 1000 miles.

What are you planning on doing with the car? I ask because my thought is since you have it and it's not very many bolts to change it some day you could run plenty of happy miles with a 3.08 open diff at 210 hp. It wouldn't do too well in an autocross if you are an autocrosser and no question you will be able to break the back end loose but it would get you rolling cheaply. I've put a lot of miles on my V6 Firebird which is the same power and an open 3.23 diff - all be it 1000 lbs more weight...

Is this a typo from your last post or is L just short for locker? Ideal is a E code which is a 3.27 locker. You might want to check out car-part.com there is usually lots of them on there.

You got it L is short for locker. I'll keep an eye out for a better one and start with what I have. I would like to autocross but I have plent of time to find a better rear.

A couple cougar before pics. I hope to start the tear down next week.

Pretty......rusty

At least for a southern car, the rockers are ate up, but everything else looks good.

As long as the rockers on the Miata are good!

You might want to check out this post before you start your build thread. https://www.v8miata.net/build-thread...age3/#post8223 It makes life a little eaiser for working with photos in posts.

Any updates?

Unfotantly not, the torando that hit vilonia took out one of our buildings and I have playing catch up. We were lucky to have only lost a building. Good news is the miata and cougar were at our shop in Beebe. Works starting to slow down for the winter and I'm hoping to get to seam welding soon.

I put an open diff in mine (7.5; 3.27) to get it on the road. Even with my bone stock SN95 5.0 I found it to be pretty squirrelly when showing off--on a cold day with touch and go grip, I figured out it could quickly land me in a pickle. So I swapped in a rusty (before I cleaned it up and painted it) 3L27 and it made a world of difference. It was hard to find a 3L27 7.5 in Central TX, so ended up with one from a salvage yard in WI. Rusty outside but fine inside.

I put about 2k miles on the first 3.27 open diff, no noises, worked fine, was clean, I painted it before I installed it; it had 65k miles on it from a Tbird. It's gathering dust on the shelf right now; is a prime candidate to have a new posi-trac of some kind put in it, or just use as is. When I get around to selling it I'll ask $100, and if you want it, I do plan to pass through Little Rock over the holidays so could deliver it. It is a 7.5 if you decide to go that route.

Best of luck with your build--these cars are a ton of fun.
TM