Ichiban

Hello from 7000' deep in the SW. After months of research and going back and forth on the details, I am close to mixing it up in a NB MX5.


Yes, I have utilized the search function, but still have noob questions: disadvantages of moving the sway bar in a LS build, is relocation only necessary when running A/C; can I avoid moving the sway bar by modifying the fire wall? Is fire wall modification a BIG deal?


Thank you all, looking forward to starting this f'in cool project.


Cheers

papabear

Relocation depends on the swap kit you use. But it's not AC but the Balancer that creates the interference. Flyin Miata makes a front bar that gives clearance if you run a corvette balancer. Some have used bars from other cars. One here did a BMW bar that looks like a good solution. There is not a real disadvantage by relocating the bar it is still serving the same function.

charchri4

Papabear is right but need to go a step further with it. It totally depends on:
1, what subframe you use
2, what front belt/ accessory system you use
3, what sway bar you use.

FMs sway bar is helpful but with an F body set up and V8R frame it will clear the balancer fine but not the AC. But you only move it about 5/8th" forwards and it's totally no big deal at all.

Fire wall mods is about an extra Saturdays worth of effort and the big deal level totally depends on your fabrication skills and how much you enjoy doing that sort of thing. I will tell you this that weighted heavy on me too in the planning and it turned out to be far FAR more scary to consider doing it that it was actually doing it.

So much of the build comes down to your skills, willingness to try something you are not sure you can do and equipment available to you. If you have not seen this check it out. https://www.v8miata.net/v8-miata-con...910/#post10829

Welcome to the fun and BTW great question and no apology needed.

Ichiban

Thanks guys, that helps, and adds more questions for me to research. Not sure on the sub-frame I'll be using; on some levels it seems like six to some, half dozen to others, but I know that is a lazy approach.


The only items I am "sure" of is utilizing a NB body and a LS2/T-56, everything else is clear as mud.


Good to know that moving the sway bar is not a performance or structural issue. Some of my research led me to believe this was as bad as beastiality.


Cheers.

charchri4

You are so right! Everyone takes a little different approach and there are lots of right ways to do it. That is why it is so hard to advise someone with a blank slate.

If you are at all concerned about moving the sway bar simply move the mount on the control arm too and everything will stay as it was aligned from the factory. Most people don't do that but it is quite easy to do and I did it on mine.

So where exactly is SFNM and are you by chance dealing with a right hand drive car?

ToySnakePMC

Welcome Ichiban. Jim, I'd say that he's from Santa Fe, NM - and it's higher elevation than I thought it'd be there at 7,000. Yikes.

Please share a build thread when you get started with the build, acquisition, or whatever. We like build threads around here!!!!!

I used the V8Roadsters subframe with my LS2, and I used the Flyin Miata V8 sway bar (the original one. Think they just brought out a second version recently...). All I had to do was lower the mounting points for the sway bar brackets down about 1". I did this with 1" steel block rectangle that we welded onto the factory mounts and threaded for the sway bar bolts/ brackets. The bar is pretty much parallel to the ground and all seems A-OK!

Ichiban

Yup, Santa Fe,NM. No right hand drive issues, and not nearly the most interesting question directed to my state of residence. They usually revolve around water; do you have running water? Can you drink the water?

Again, thanks for the replies, and yes, once I get beyond research I will post up on my progress.

Cheers.

GoKart

Here's another option for ya. When putting my car together, I noticed that the sway bar was only about 3/8"-1/2" from clearing the alternator bolt. I also already had a nice RB sway bar that I wanted to keep using. I ended up just welding 1/8" plate to the bottom of the sway bar mounts. To compensate for the forward movement, I used slightly longer bolts/spacers on my end links to keep them in a vertical position.

charchri4

That's what I did ^ too but with the plate on the inside and I'd need a year in welding school for it to look like that so I didn't even try!

Here is a nice visual of F body parts and how much you have to move it. It's really no big deal.

Ichiban

Interesting design and execution. I need to look into this a bit further. Thanks for the pics.