new member in Utah
 

Hello. I already started a thread in a technical section of the site, so I figured I ought to introduce myself. I'm Dempsey, an almost 40-yr-old who still plays with cars. When I'm not at work selling them (I've been at a local Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep/Subaru/Suzuki/Kia/used autoplex for 12 years now) I'm usually at home tinkering with them. Thankfully, I have a very understanding wife--she says as long as I don't jeopardize the mortgage payment, I can do whatever I want with cars. :)

I saw mention of this forum on Jason's site, which I went to after reading something at Miata.net. Like almost every forum I'm on, at Miata.net my screen name is TurboMinivan--this due to my six years of bracket racing a highly modified 1989 turbocharged Dodge Caravan. I began with an 18-second slug and tweaked with bolt-ons until I was running 13.5s at my local track... all on the stock block, crank, rods, pistons. Needless to say, I know the 2.2/2.5 turbo Mopar engines very well.

I have very little experience with V8s in general, and my Miata will also be my first Ford project... so I'm learning two things simultaneously here. My car is a 1991 which I went to LA to acquire. The trip was worth it since (a) the car is Mariner Blue, my preferred color, (b) this car is a no-option base model so I won't have to fiddle with A/C, power steering, ABS, etc and (c) it has all its factory sheet metal and paint. I'd post a picture but my server is currently down for some reason.

Right now my car is sitting with no engine, trans or diff. I have a rebuilt 306 shortblock wrapped in plastic on an engine stand. I have a Ford 8.8 and I bought the Boss Frog diff mounting kit because I like how it was engineered. Other than that, I have no kit; I'm relying on a local friend with lots of fabrication experience to assist me in critical areas. I'm about to begin the actual assembly, starting from the rear and moving forward.

Anyway, I'm happy to be here. Thanks to all of you for sharing your experiences and helping the relative noobs like myself. I really appreciate it.

Welcome!
I'm glad my site has led another over here (expecially another Ford conversion :) ).
Let me know if I can help with any advice or parts,
-Jason

His project brings these question to mind
 

when I have a part go bad that came with Martins ford kit, where will I obtain it? I am sure they are parts that may have come from another make or model and if so i would like to have part numbers or something to reference them purchase local without a hastle. If they are customer parts then what is the supplier? Here are some that may need replacing in the future.

clutch Master
Radiator
Clutch braided hose
Water fill neck
Throttle cable ball attachment
Fans

Can anyone help with this ?

Part of the reason I decided against using Martin's kit was because I wanted to do some things a bit differently than he does. Perhaps most significantly, I felt it was simpler and better to use the "compact" Thunderbird style accessories and brackets rather than the usual Mustang arrangement. By doing it this way, I will then be able to retain a stock-type Miata radiator mounted in the stock location, thus eliminating some headaches and expenses. I'll select and mount a pair of aftermarket pusher fans on the front of the radiator--the beauty of sourcing parts on my own is that I will know precisely where and how to get another one should I need a replacement down the road. This goes for the clutch master cylinder and other items you mentioned as well. Perhaps that information can help you out?

In other news, tonight we towed my car to the shop. Monday night we plan to begin working on the rear diff. I'm so excited!

clutch Master-Rebuild or replace with Willwood unit of same diameter (3/4)

Radiator-Should not go bad. If it pops a leak have it patched by a reputable shop. The brand is "Saltana" but Summit can supply you with a radiator from many different companies with the same dimensions.

Clutch Hose-Easily made up using 3-AN universal brake line and AN to NPT and AN to Metric fittings-Should not go bad.

Water fill neck-Similar units can be found at Factory Five Racing-again, I really doubt it will go bad.

Throttle cable ball attachment-Big "A" autoparts or any speed shop

Fans-Similar units can be found at Summit, his come from Tripac

Martin is a great guy and will happily replace any of the above parts for most likely less than they would cost you to buy from the above sources. The real things you have to worry about wearing out are non-kit parts like the clutch,
alternator, coil, brakes, etc. Non of Martin's parts are what I would consider "wear items".

I'm not sure if it would help but when I sell a V8 conversion I include a 40-page interchange/part source/owner's manual with it for just this reason. If you like I'd be happy to email you a copy of the one I made up for my last car. It may at lest give you an idea of where to start looking for replacement parts.

Hope that helps,
-Jason

Yes for sure
 

That would be fantastic!!! Corpusops@aol.com

On it's way.

-Jason

mass air tube
 

Jason, Can I just get the 1996 mass air tube and replace my stock one or must I change the meter also? I understand about the size of the tube but what is so different about the meter? If I start with just the tube and then later add the meter I should still have the gains of the larger tube. Have you done one and not the other and felt the difference?

The meter is calibrated for the diameter of the air tube, the diameter of the smaller sampling tube in the main tube, and the poundage of the injectors. The Explorer tube and meter would work fine except that its a "flange type" tube as opposed to a kind used on a Mustang. There would be no way to attach your cone filter to it without an adapter plate which will look ugly and cost you as much as another clamp-type tube from the Thunderbird. The "clamp type" Thunderbird tube has the correct diameter of both the main tube and the sampling tube but has a meter calebrated for 15 pound injectors.

You could try your Mustang meter in the Thunderbird tube and see if it works before looking for a Explorer meter. If it does you'll get out of having to switch your mass air plug to the newer style found on the Explorer. I did A LOT of trial and error to find this combination but was also working out a few other electronic kinks at the same time. It's possible the Mustang meter didn't work for me due to one of those other isues rather than a calibration issue.

Good Luck, I hope that's not too confusing,
-Jason

aftermarket cl-106
 

Jason, I understand. My thinking is that they sell just the tube upgrade without a new meter and boast the improvement and still use the stock mustang air meter. I was hoping to do the same thing with the tbird tube. They claim that the cl-106 design was flow tested and is set to work with 19 lb injectors and will assume shaped better to provide better air flow. Just the restrictiveness of the stock compaired to the tbird should make a difference at half the cost. I have not decided what I will do. Has anyone else tryed the aftermarket tubes with stock mustang meter compaired to tbird air tube and stock mustang meter?

Gerry,
The C&L tubes come with a removable sampling tube that you swap out depending on your injector size. That is how they make them work with the Mustang's stock air meter. They are a good value for the money but still more expensive than an used Thunderbird tube and Explorer meter.
If you're having trouble finding the two parts I can try to find them for you next time I'm yard hunting.

-Jason

Jason, Thank you for your offer and have priced both parts local. It appears they want anywhere from 50 to 70 bucks for each one so I have decided just to order the cl-106 73 mm for 19lb injectors. It was 124 plus shipping. Will let you know how it works out once i get it installed.
In reguards to the oil capacity, you mentioned that you run 4.5 quarts in with the Martin oil pan but your owners manual indicates 4 quarts. Can you explain the difference? Also you said that the pan is not modified on the dipstick side so using any 5.0 stick should be accurate? Hey man, think with your dipstick!!! Currently at 4.5 quarts my the stick is reading way over and it concerns me? I dont want to under fill or overfill.

The corral is a great source for used injectors for future reference.