Long time reader but new member
 

I also started a new build thread, but just wanted to do a little introduction.

A couple of questions for the 302 guys:
If I modify the front subframe myself, is it possible to use the stock oil pan?
And if the plates that are welded in after the engine bay is cut-out are purely cosmetic, will it be too hot to fiberglass that area?
If I pull the rear end from a Lincoln (8.8" rear end) can I still use the 7.5" splines / axles? I'm going to try to run the exhaust out the sides, so I won't have to worry about working it around the rear end.
Will a T5 from a V6 Mustang work with the 302 from an Explorer?

My profile has all of my current pictures in case anyone is curious, and here's a brief rundown of my Miata.
https://www.v8miata.net/members/othe...r-open-611.jpg
My father and I purchased it from a guy in Fort Lauderdale, FL and it now lives in the Dallas area.
The guy who had it before gutted the soft-top, formed all of the fiberglass for the PS2, NOS bottle and speaker enclosures. He also molded in the ground effects, shaved the door handles, antenna and emblems, added the fender flares, tubbed out the rear end (it has 18's all the way around), suicide doors and did the custom paint job.

As far as go-fast stuff it is mostly stock:
Tokico Illumina springs and struts
75hp NOS wet kit
K&N conical air filter
I had to put a catalytic converter on it for Texas emissions, and it has some sort of custom exhaust.

All of the vinyl / interior work and electronics were done by me:
Grant GT steering wheel
I custom made the door panels with red marine vinyl and copper colored satin to match the paint job (they are not just ripped)
2 stage Motion sensor alarm, since there are no open door sensors anymore
Door poppers for both doors - I also wired up the driver side to auto unlock trigger on the alarm. That way the driver's side door pops open when I turn the key off.
The alarm key fob can pop both doors and the trunk, and after about the third time of locking myself out of the car - I put hidden micro switches in the boots around the mirrors for each door.
Touch screen DVD player (cheap old one that's long overdue for replacement)
Replaced the interior lights with blue leds and added a transistor for the previously unused door switch so that you can set the dash lights to door and they light up with the music. You can also just turn them on or off.
It also has multi-color led strips all the way around, underneath, with two strips under the back shelf and one strip under each seat.

The only mechanical work I've done is to replace the fuel filter, timing belt, plugs, and other maintenance. I converted the A/C to use R134a (replaced the oil in the compressor and replaced all of the O rings and the drier). I also rewired the NOS to use a master switch and micro switch on the throttle body and for my own sanity wired up an indicator light off of the throttle body switch.

My next step is to put in a 302 I pulled out of an Explorer, DIY as much as possible. In my build thread I'll keep a running total of parts and such as well.

Welcome to the site othersalem



Enjoy the stay!

LOL love the paint! That guy is a heck of a fabricator!

The plates in the corners of the frame are not purely cosmetic. They do add a bit of structure back to where the gussets were removed. I know fiberglass well and don't see any advantage to using it in that area. If you are going to make your own frame you will be doing plenty of welding and IMO everything about welding there is better than fiberglass for those covers. And that is from a guy that loves working with fiberglass.

The axle question is driven by the CV joint not the axle and I believe all the 28 splines are the same. So yes you can mix them but you still have to come up with custom axle shafts. Probably the only kit part I would buy if I was to build another car are Martins shafts and spacers.

Watch your Lincoln diff when you buy it because I don't think any of them had posi. If you want add posit to it I believe it takes a case expander to properly set the bearing load on the aluminum housing. There is still a good supply of Tbird and Cougar ones with posi out there and that's what most guys run.

T5 from a V6 will bolt up but if far from ideal gearing for the V8.

I can't answer the question on the pan with confidence but I think like all v8s you must modify it to clear the steering rack.

Welcome to the obsession I am really glad you have joined us!

The Lincoln diffs are not posi - they all came with electronic traction control. I don't think you can put 7.5" gearsets into an 8.8" carrier. Many in the Factory Five 'Cobra' community have put various posi units into Lincoln 8.8" diffs. I will be within a year or so - I am currently running a TBird 8.8" traction lock in my Cobra. I also have an aluminum diff from a '95 Mark VIII sitting in my garage waiting for new internals.

Also, the T-5 from a V6 isn't rated for the HP and torque of a V8. All T-5s are not created equally.

I think the heads on an Explorer V8 have strange exhaust ports (angled differently than the heads on other 5.0 engines. If you are swapping the heads - no big deal. If not, you could end up having to fabricate your own headers. That added cost/time could far outweigh the cost of getting a V8 from something other than an Explorer.

Pay attention to the details and don't try to save a few $$ on non-standard parts. I just had to buy a new oil pan from Martin for my Monster - $345 shipped. Don't weaken the front cross-member by cutting into it - you could stand the chance of weakening it to the point of failure. If it fails, it could kill or seriously hurt someone.

Thanks for the replies on the rear-end, I'll be looking at TBirds and Cougars instead. There are plenty of each in Dallas.
As for the heads, they are GT40 heads and not the GT40p heads. The GT40p has the spark plugs at an odd angle and cause problems with headers.
Also, not sure if I mentioned it or not, but the donor may be a 1990. I know it has a 1.6L engine and does not have power steering.

Good luck with your build!