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Good to see you are working thru the issues and getting it running nice and smooth. Says a lot about your character as many would give up on the project part way thru with the road blocks you have overcome.
Once you get to the point you are happy with the project and not planning any future upgrades it would be nice of you could do a post to list things you would do differently if you ever do another build.
I do have a question about the shifter.
Are you happy with what you have installed and would you recommend it as an upgrade over the factory LS1 shifter mechanism?
At this point mine is still using the factory shifter but with a short lever that allows the use of the factory Miata **** to keep a factory look with the interior. It is real tight and a bit notchy so my thinking is that an aftermarket shifter designed for using the super short lever might be an improvement.
Any thoughts or recommendations?
The engineer in me is already thinking of doing another build and doing it in a slightly different direction. Originally I strongly considered using an automatic transmission and that keeps floating around in my head.
Good to see you are working thru the issues and getting it running nice and smooth. Says a lot about your character as many would give up on the project part way thru with the road blocks you have overcome.
Once you get to the point you are happy with the project and not planning any future upgrades it would be nice of you could do a post to list things you would do differently if you ever do another build.
I do have a question about the shifter.
Are you happy with what you have installed and would you recommend it as an upgrade over the factory LS1 shifter mechanism?
At this point mine is still using the factory shifter but with a short lever that allows the use of the factory Miata **** to keep a factory look with the interior. It is real tight and a bit notchy so my thinking is that an aftermarket shifter designed for using the super short lever might be an improvement.
Any thoughts or recommendations?
The engineer in me is already thinking of doing another build and doing it in a slightly different direction. Originally I strongly considered using an automatic transmission and that keeps floating around in my head.
Thanks for the support - just wrapped up a small side issue tonight that could've been worse. Went for a ride at night this past weekend and realized my dash and exterior marker lights were not working. Fuse was blown, but would keep blowing as soon as I replaced it. As I had just installed a power antenna and rerouted the horn I figured I did something wrong and broke a wire, etc. Went through all the wiring and found an open wire that was used to power an old gauge from the previous owner behind the radio, as it kept shorting to ground. This was as I was about to hand it over to the mechanic to do my inspection this week. So that was delayed a few days... but as you said with the other roadblocks, each time I get a bit closer to going crazy with this car.
I do have some notes I plan on posting once I have this thing all wrapped up, maybe a high level type post of things to watch out for, lessons learned, etc.
I haven't regretted much of what I've done as far as decisions on the car, and try not to get caught up in that. One thing that has crossed my mind is what it might be like to LS swap other things in the world! If I were ever to grenade the engine in my M3 I'd seriously think about an LS3 or something similar. My current fascinations are with off road vehicles or rock crawlers, though those are pretty hard core. So an older Jeep or Toyota FJ with an LS would be really cool.
Re: the shifter, I have no experience with a stock LS1 shifter in any car so I can't compare. The one I have seemed nice, was a steal and I like it so far. The exposed stainless metal shaft adds a nice bit of contrast. Reverse is a bit notchy and hard to find, but I don't think that's the shifter. I can't imagine running a shorter lever on my T56, I think the extra leverage on mine really helps, but doesn't slow shifting at all. I did cut mine down a bit and tapped a hole in the shaft to make my own threaded adapter so I could use a golf ball shift **** that I have had in a series of VWs for the last 20 years. Kinda sentimental to me, plus I just love the feel.
I made some more modifications to the hood by adding a "ram air" naca duct. This hood was already in rough shape so I don't feel bad about cutting more holes in it. This should add a nice bit of hp once the car is up to speed. The alternative is for the intake to grab warm/hot air from under the hood after it's passed through the radiator or up past the headers.
This was a nice carbon fiber piece I picked up from McKinney Corp. Naca & Outlet Ducts
There were similar NACA ducts I found online but in plastic for a little less, but I went with the carbon fiber.
I have another carbon fiber part for the car I will be presenting soon (once i install it) I'm curious to see how it looks on the car.
The car has finished its inspection with a local certified shop and the necessary paperwork was filled out to title the car as a Modified Vehicle in PA. This is required if the engine was replaced. It requires pictures be taken, receipts gathered, forms filled out, signatures made, and then the local Tags place sends it off to the state for review. Hopefully in the next couple weeks I'll get my new title so I can then get the inspection stickers from my mechanic, and have some fun with the car.
While it's sitting waiting for road legal status, I decided to pull the differential out and have a local shop look at it and hopefully fix the gear whine. Hopefully I'll get the diff back before the title is ready so I can attempt to make at least one autox or track day before the season is over.
After reading about all the hoops other people have to jump thru to get their V8 Miata's road legal, I am sure happy that I live in the backwoods state of Oklahoma.
I'm happy to say that I've now reached completion of the car, as I received my new title and plates on Friday. To review, the car is now registered as a "Modified" vehicle in PA due to the engine swap and lack of emissions equipment. So I'm emissions exempt but have certain restrictions on how often I can drive the car. No big deal, but I can now drive the car legally and enjoy it.
Of course, as I was driving from the title place after picking up my new plate, then 10 minutes to my mechanic so he could affix the state inspection sticker to make it official, there was a police cruiser behind me for a few minutes. I had my new tags on the back which wouldn't have raised any red flags, but had removed the windshield sticker earlier. I'm sure I could have expained that I was literally on my way to get the final sticker, but it would've been just perfect to get pulled over at this stage in the process. Fortunately, he turned off at the next light.
So I'm not "actually" done, of course. Last things to wrap up are:
- Break in the new diff gears. That's right, I had the diff rebuilt due to some gear whine. The shop said things seemed OK, but it could've used a little tighter clearance on the gear contact pattern. The real surprise, was that the gearset I thought was in the car was not even close. I bought the diff on ebay advertised as a 3.27 gear which was likely gathered from the metal tag Ford puts on the diffs to denote the ratio and presence of a limited slip. What was actually in the diff was a 4.10 gearset! Holy cow that's high. So I ordered a new Ford Racing 3.73 gear set from CJs Pony Parts and had the shop install it, which would also eliminate any chance the gears were part of the whine issue. The shop seemed to think the old 4.10 gears are fine, and there doesn't seem to be any damage or wear.
Following the shop's break in process, I drove the car twice for 10-20 minutes to get it warmed up and then parked it overnight to let it completely cool. Now I should drive it a few hundred miles to fully break it in. So that may take the next few weeks or so. Hoping to make a Nov 19th track day at a nearby track in New Jersey to really get a chance to play with the car.
One last project is to install some chrome exhaust tips I've had for awhile as the mufflers are exiting under the bumper cover and I'm seeing some minor paint damage to the bumper cover. So a bit more cutting and welding and that may be it for awhile.
Last edited by pj_mcgarvey; 11-02-2017 at 06:57 AM.
I have never heard of a rear end break in process. You don't see mention of it in a new car's owner's manual. Either it is built correctly or not. You should be able to tell that during the initial test drive.
The good news is that there is no whine now, so I think it's setup correctly, with the gears making good contact. I think the break in process I was given was more b/c of the new gears in there, and the desire to make sure the break-in of the metal to metal contact of the ring and pinion is made safely.
Break-In Procedure
STEP 1: Drive the car for at least 30 min. No spirited acceleration.
Repeat 2 more 30 min. drive cycles
STEP 2: Check gear oil level
Last edited by pj_mcgarvey; 11-02-2017 at 06:55 AM.
I had a can of this stuff for awhile, so figured now was a good time to try it out. This seems to get better reviews for cleaning combustion chambers vs. something like a Seafoam, which I've never tried. I just sprayed it into a side vacuum port that I had capped off. Took a few minutes to empty the can into the intake. Let it sit for about an hour, and then went for a drive. No difference, but I do feel better that I at least gave it a chance to clean up any gunk or build up in the intake system or engine.
I also finished my exhaust tips, to really complete the look of the car. I had purchased some chrome 2.5" Flowmaster tips, even though I'm no longer running Flowmaster mufflers. I started by cutting a matching cutout in the bumper cover on the driver's side that matched the passenger side. I cut it out carefully with a body saw.
Since my mufflers weren't angled in a way that they "mirrored" each other, though they were close, each tip would need to be customized so it pointed correctly. This took a bit of work, which included using an angle finder to find the downward angle each would be at, and some other straight edges and eyeballing to make sure each tip was was parallel to each other.
After alot of test fitting, measuring, tack welding and then a final weld, I was done. I sprayed some exhaust paint on the welds to protect them.
One issue I noticed tonight was that it seems like I'm having a hard start issue when the car is hot. The car always starts perfectly when "cold". When hot, either the first crank or two is slow, and the car starts, or lately it has been almost failing to start the car. I hear some clicking as it seems to battery is not able to turn it over. This can be after a 5 or 25 minute stop after driving for awhile.
One side effect is that the clock on my radio is reset as if the battery power was pulled, and the trip odometer is getting reset. So I may need to look into upgrading my battery from the standard, but 2 years new, Bosch Miata battery I have. It would make sense considering the battery is being asked to turn over twice as many cylinders.
Anyone care to share what they are using for a more powerful, better cranking battery that will fit in a Miata battery location?
Lastly...holy crap this car drinks gas! I'm doing mostly around town driving, but the little rip around I did tonight it seemed like I could almost see the gauge move. Since my odometer was tripped with the battery issue, I couldn't track the mileage precisely when I filled up, but it was well under 20mpg I think.
Curious what others are seeing in either around town, or highway mileage, and what gearing they are using.
Some highway driving should really clear up whether or not I have an issue. I will also look closely to see if I may have a small fuel leak under the car.
That is a nice clean look on the exhaust.
Almost exactly the same as I get from the Flyin Miata exhaust system.
The Flyin Miata tips are about 3" dia. but double walled with the inner being 2 1/2" dia.
By doing it that way I hope the intent is to keep the outer pipe nice and cool so it does not bubble the paint.
On the battery, I bought an Odyssey PC680, which is not the normal lead acid battery and is about the size of a motorcycle battery. One of the build threads had somebody using that specific battery for C7 Corvette's so I figured it should work for my Miata that has less electronics than a Corvette.
Works great so far. You can see a picture of it on post #62 of my thread.
Cost me about $200 if memory serves and has around 600 cold cranking amps for 5 seconds.
13 pounds is the weight I seem to remember.
It is super easy to hook up.as you can take the Miata cables and cut off the curved clamp portion and leaving the flat metal portion that has a hole already located in it. The battery has a bolt that fits thru the hole just right. Since the battery is physically smaller than the factory Miata battery I relocated one tab on the factory hold down bracket to keep it nice and tight.
So far it has worked great for my build. If it seems weak during the hot part of the Summer (not tested yet due to it being late Fall) I can simply purchase a second one and hook it up in parallel (or series?), whatever it is called to give me 12 volts but tied together. They are small enough that both would fit into the Miata battery compartment in the trunk.
I had a can of this stuff for awhile, so figured now was a good time to try it out. This seems to get better reviews for cleaning combustion chambers vs. something like a Seafoam, which I've never tried. I just sprayed it into a side vacuum port that I had capped off. Took a few minutes to empty the can into the intake. Let it sit for about an hour, and then went for a drive. No difference, but I do feel better that I at least gave it a chance to clean up any gunk or build up in the intake system or engine.
Which vacuum ports did you spray the stuff into?
I see that it is called combustion chamber cleaner.
Are you trying to get it into the intake or into the cylinders or both?
Just call me confused......
Which vacuum ports did you spray the stuff into?
I see that it is called combustion chamber cleaner.
Are you trying to get it into the intake or into the cylinders or both?
Just call me confused......
It's supposed to de-carbon the chambers. I know mine had some buildup when I peeked in there before the engine was installed. That buildup can extend to the intake runners in the head, maybe also any oily junk in the air intake, throttle body, etc. The carbon buildup in the chamber will have the most effect on engine running since it can create engine knock from hotspots.
I used a lower brass port on the driver's side of the throttle body (I have a 98 LS1 cable actuated TB). I connected a rubber hose to make it easier to reach with the can. The car started and idled fine with the gaping vacuum leak, but I kept the idle up with my left hand on the throttle and my right spraying the cleaner in there. Empty the can, turn the car off and let it sit for a few minutes. I let it sit a bit longer thinking more time would be better. The instructions on the can are that simple. I think I got the can from Amazon.
i'm getting 15l/100km which works out to 15.5mile/gal, so you're doing pretty good, but it isnt very far between gas stations.
Darkblue, I checked the dimensions of the battery area on my 99 Miata, and the group 34 should be a tight fit. Can confirm that you actually have it mounted in the oem location and didn't have to fuss with getting it in there too much, battery hold down works, etc? I'll assume NA and NBs are similar here.
I did some research and figured I could fit a group/size 34 battery. Interstate makes a good battery and a local Firestone service center had the MT-34 (https://www.interstatebatteries.com/products/mt-34) in stock.
Here is the size comparison with a Bosch battery in the oem Miata size . Yeah...
The Bosch weighs 26 lbs, and the Interstate weighs 37 lbs. Only a 10 lb increase, which is a good tradeoff for the performance I think.
Though it did fit with a tiny bit of room
Luckily there is enough cable in the positive and negative side to reach the posts on the battery since they are on the other side of the battery.
I needed to remove on of the "ears" on the hold down clamp since the battery is much wider. I also needed to bend the hold down so that it would lay flat on the trunk floor due again to the increased height of the battery.
All in all not a bad install. Started up the engine once or twice as it was still hot from my drive to pick up the battery, and didn't notice any sluggishness or stuttering on startup. They'll even take the old smaller battery back as a core return for $20.
Last edited by pj_mcgarvey; 11-06-2017 at 08:11 AM.
Also added a DIY brake master cylinder brace, as it seems to be something useful for track days. The brake MC and booster tend to flex with the firewall under heavy pedal pressure and braking on the track. These are about $40 new, but this only cost me some time and scrap metal I had laying around.
Doing some minor tack welding in the engine bay to get the bracket in the right orientation. Needed to protect the whole area with a welding blanket.
I've ordered an upgrade for the rear brakes to move to a 10.9" vented and slotted rotor, but also reuses the 1.8 calipers by adding a relocation bracket, so I can keep my pads and keep (unnecessary) costs down of a caliper upgrade. Also adding stainless lines. Got this all from Track Dog Racing using the Cyber Monday special, and a price match on the rotors.
Next step is to upgrade the front brakes with a 11.75" rotor and Wilwood caliper kit in the next month or two.
I got some sheet aluminum in the mail today that I will be using to build a removable undertray, since the OEM plastic one does not fit any longer. Hope to start that in the next week.
I was not aware of the brake master cylinder flex.
Since my car has a shock tower brace maybe I can figure something to attach to the brace on the driver's side to mimic what you have done.
Being proactive and taking care of potential problem areas before they become a problem is something that appeals to me a great deal.
I was not aware of the brake master cylinder flex.
Since my car has a shock tower brace maybe I can figure something to attach to the brace on the driver's side to mimic what you have done.
I'd say half the work is done if you have the shock tower mount already there.
Your car sounds good. I'm looking forward to seeing your undertray fab. Are you thinking your car is getting too hot under the hood? Is the metal cheaper by mail? i've got one of these near me www.metalsupermarkets.com
09-12-2017, 04:18 PM
