hi. checking in from orlando

i had both MGW and Pro 5.0 in 2 different cars, i decided on the pro 5.0 this time. personal pref.

 

It was a choice between the two and I went with the majority vote. Wish I could drive both to compare them. What did you like better about it?

If you ever need help or something, feel free to hit me up. Im in Apopka.

 

i do like your fuel line , i am all the way out the east side of town ( ucf )

i am still at the very beginning stage of building (all i have is an LS1 +t56)

i am debating if i should build a LS1 FC rx7 instead..... my buddy is giving me a shell for next to nothing

 

I once owned an FC, was a fun car. Nothin like a rotary! Well good luck deciding, I say stick with the roadster

 

Got my accessories wrapped up, turned out great. Ive gotta give some props to CBM for their alternator bracket as it even came with the spacer for the idler pulley.

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Parts:

CBM Alternator Bracket
CBM MOTORSPORTS CORVETTE CONVERSION BILLET ALTERNATOR BRACKET

Idler pulley

Belt Tensioner
2005-2013 Chevrolet Corvette Accessory Belt Tensioner - Cooling System - AC Delco, Accessory Drive, Serpentine 05-13 Corvette Accessory Belt Tensioner - 18301-05323095 - PartsGeek

Gates Micro-V Belt (55 1/4")


Cheers

 

Good info! What alternator and water pump is that?

 

Alternator is an F body unit, told the NAPA dude I needed one for a 2002 camaro 5.7 to fit the CBM bracket.

Water pump is oem corvette style, came bolted on from GM.

 

Awesome. I'll probably go with that bracket rather than getting my f body bracket machined down.

 

I made up my mind to go with the miata. Now I need to find a cheap shell.
Will probably need help from u making those fuel lines. My wife hates the fume

 

Good choice! Hit me up when youre ready!

 

Finally was able to get a bunch of work done.

I edited my previous post with the correct belt size, should anyone want to run without power steering. Im going to give it a shot even though a lot of people have tried it and eventually switched back. We'll see...

I got the V8R oil pan installed. Its definitely not a simple bolt on affair which is ok since I had researched others installs of it and was expecting it. But for the money though it seems like it should've fit a bit better. For one, the valley tray (Vette LS3) needed surgery. I ended up cutting about a 3" square away to clear the low profile end of the pan. Also the pick up tube sits right where the dipstick shoots into the pan. Again, not a huge deal but it adds to the list. Lastly, I ended up shimming the pick up tube to sit 1/4" off the bottom of the pan. Out of the box it sat at just over 3/8" which might have been ok but with the known lack of oiling issues the LS3 is notorious for I wanted it to be closer than farther. I should have taken pics but I didn't.

On a positive note, the V8R pan is quite a bit lighter than the OEM unit. I didn't weigh them but I'd say its a couple pounds leaner. It saves much of this weight by not having the threaded holes for the bellhousing like the OEM unit has.

Mounted up the Mcleod clutch as well. Pretty straight forward, no issues. This is the first brand new clutch into any vehicle I've owned. Its definitely a nice piece and thorough intstructions make it an easy install. Even came with ARP pressure plate bolts.

Heres a pic installing the flywheel with my diy flexplate holder.
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Cut and beat the firewall last night, going to throw the motor in today and see if I was angry enough.

Cheers

 

Are u not running AC at all
What wiring harness are u going with,and ECM?

 

No a/c. Using a GM controller kit w/ E67 ecu.

 

Like a glove!

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Got the engine bay and trans tunnel all sealed up and primed. Hoping to finish the fuel and brake lines this week.
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Very nice! jealous of your progress. lol

 

Got the pedal mounted. Its tight against the trans tunnel and gusset, not sure if it will clear with carpet and insulation. We'll see!
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Is there a template on how u mount it?
Or u kinda sit there and testing position

 

I took measurements off the miata pedal and went from there. Moved the gas pedal about a 1/2" closer to the brake pedal to clear the trans tunnel. Right now the mounting plate is just bolted to the mazda bracket. Once I get the car going and confirm the placement works I'll weld it in permanently.

 

I found you don't have to widen the tunnel near as far as the FM book says you do. When I ran into the gas pedal issue I double checked the bell housing clearance and took about have the widening back out of the tunnel so the pedal would clear in it's stock location. But mine is an NA drive by cable so it might be different.

You might want to test fit your steering column before you weld the pedal bracket.

Looks really good Dave!

 

I too noticed FM's measurements were too wide on the drivers side. I wonder how those guys get the gusset back in with carpet and have enough room for the pedal. But I must say reading your blog definitely helped me not go too far with it!

 

Lizard Skinned the chassis yesterday. Besides all the prep needed to shoot this stuff it went on pretty easy. I used both the sound control and heat formulas so hopefully the cabin will stay quiet and cool.
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Im happy that now I can start reassembling and making this look like a car again.

Also got the fuel line ran to engine. I really hope these AN fittings dont leak. So far, this has been the toughest part of the project for me. Getting the hard line routed right, numerous times bending, fitting, rebending.
I went with Pegasus ptfe braided line and fittings for the engine bay. I liked their fittings as they matched the color scheme Im going for and they were easy to put together.
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u just brush on the lizard skin right ?

thats some good progress
i really need to step up my game

 

They dont encourage brushing or rolling, I used a spray gun.

 

Wow that is REALLY nice looking! That is one fine build you have working there.