Thanks PJ.
An inch?! That's a mile!
I've looked at a few of these swaps and it seems that is one of the tightest spots, but I can't recall ever actually paying attention to how close the head was.

I need to look at the mounts again, but I'm 99% sure they are correct.
Clearance around the bellhousing and everything else looks great.

 

Yeah, I had some issues with my mounts, so that could be part of it. We'll see what the front/rear weight distribution is when I'm done. You might be able to slot the motor mount holes so that a half inch one way or the other would be possible.

For performance reasons having it rearward is a good thing. If there are clearance issues, you could beat the firewall back in some spots - if you're into that thing.

 

I massaged the bump to get more room behind that head. I found the engine by itself rotated back a bit so there was less room that when the transmission is mounted. Have you got the transmission mount in place under the tail?

 

Yep. what you're saying makes sense, as the trans mounted to the cross member should put things in the right alignment.

 

I haven't bolted up the trans mount yet, but it is on a jack. I have probably and inch or so. If I let it sag without the jack it will sag back until it touches the firewall.

 

Last weekend I got the engine in the car. As last time, I used the dolly and lowered the car onto it. Worked well.

Got the frame rails installed. After I drilled the holes I primed and undercoated the holes to prevent rust. Laying underneath the car and drilling holes while metal shavings are falling on you sucks. lol


Had some clearance issues but this wasn't one of them lol.


The passenger side header doesn't fit quite right. It's extremely close to the subframe and the angle of the collector would interfere with the body of the car


The steering rack had some small clearance issue, I notched it and all was well.



Got the front brakes and tie rods installed.


And here's the list of things on my short term to-do list.

 

I would add "check oil pressure" on there as well, that's my next step to do while cranking the engine right before fireup.

 

I like that you posted your to-do list for us to see! That brings back pleasant memories... I saved and printed mine from the iPad for either nostalgia or hopefully building another V8M one day.

 

Dave,
Could I get a blank copy of your check list as it looks like a great starting point to put on the garage wall and check off to make sure that steps do not get missed.

 

Ok new update. I had clearance issues with the Koni dampeners with the wheels and the axles. So I called up v8r and ordered a set of their DSD coilovers. I've also been chipping away at stuff over the last week. Got the wiring harness insulated and all installed, insulated and secured the clutch, brake and fuel lines. Trimmed the battery cable to length and crimped a terminal on the end for the starter. I installed my oil pressure sender then determined that my intake didn't fit so I got creative with some brass NPT fittings. Got the coilovers a day later and installed and adjusted them. Today we got the carpet, dash and steering column installed. That is pretty inspiring and is a huge boost to see the car starting to take shape. Also picked up a steering wheel from a protege 5 at the u pull for $15 and swapped the awful wood one out for it.

Pictures are in no specific order.

 

Wow. Just wow... I'm in love with that pretty blue paint. That LS motor looks so nice sitting in that electrified blue engine bay.

Did the V8R coilovers provide the rear axle clearance you needed? And another quick question: Did y'all discuss using their lower control arms for better (slightly offset I believe) lower shock placement? Or, am I wrong to think that?

Keep 'em coming. Want to see this one in the flesh.

 

Yep that paint color is nice, I'm sure it would look even better in person.

Are those Tungsten 6ULs? Hope so, b/c that's what I have coming to me soon and they look sharp.

I had some clearance issues with my oil pressure sender as well, though just a bit of clearancing on the intake made it fit.

 

They definitely did, I have tons of room now. Also, I didn't really talk about the issue, just that I wanted a set of coilovers. Lol. I did however talk to him about the headers, he informed me that there was 2 different runs of headers from kooks and the early ones are very close as the picture shows. But he assured me it shouldn't be an issue and also suggested that I use some reflective heat tape on the heat shields. So I went ahead and did that. I responded to your PM by the way.

they are the tungsten color I believe. And I remember seeing that in your thread but I wasn't sure where I saw it at the time or what the solution was so I ended up with the fittings.

 

As of tonight the ls engine breathed it's first breath. Boyyyyy does it sound mean 😈

 

 

Here's a quick update..
the last week my tuner asked what I had done to the engine so he could configure a base map for me. Well he told me that my stock ls6 injectors were too small so I found some ls9 injectors locally for a good price but I then had to buy the adapters from CBM to make them fit the ls6 rail/manifold. No worries. Also needed to finally order my alternator bracket from them too. Went to install my coil brackets and wires and found that the coils don't fit with the ls6 fuel rail. I tried to heat it up and bend it a little and then I cracked it. I ended up cutting the line right where it comes out of the dampener and having a -6 AN fitting welded on. Worked out ok and didn't have to do anything too special to get the fuel line hooked up.

I got my alternator bolted up with the new bracket and also mounted the radiator fan.

Then I was able to prime the oil system and fuel system and fire it up. It runs on the base map but throttle response is poor. Not driving, just snapping the throttle. Once the coolant tank is back from the fabricator I'll be able to fill it and let it actually warm up. Also need to finish bleeding the brakes before so I can safely back it out of the garage.
Here's the video of it's first start up and some other pictures.

 

congtats on getting her tuned and driving, (saw on instagram) what are your reviews on the lizard skin?

 

Thanks! I drove it home from the tuner, a total of about 20 miles. My car is definitely very loud so I can't speak on the sound deadening but the cabin never got warm at all. I can also say the cerakote on the headers works phenomenally. During pulls on the dyno it was very cool considering we were doing wide open pulls over and over.

Here's some info on the pics.. got my coolant tank back from the fabricator and made some AN hoses for it. Was able to get the brakes bled and cooling system filled so I let it idle until it got warm. I had a coolant leak at the overflow nipple on the cap on the radiator, not sure why though and griffin didn't have anything to say. So I just capped it for now. I made a shifter handle for the t56 on the lathe, and also made a plate to mount my oil pressure gauge in and a mount for the fuel rail near the firewall. Got the car towed to the dyno and spent a few hours there beating the **** out of it breaking the engine in the right way

Managed to get 390whp/385wtq. Drove the car for the first time, dear lord. I drove it 20 miles from the dyno and had no issues at all except a couple bugs in my teeth since I don't have a windshield yet lol. Trimmed and fit the bumper for the intake and fit the hood as well. I'm extremely happy with how it looks right now. During the next week I need to put as many miles as possible on the car so I can feel comfortable driving it 2.5 hours to Tampa for Miatapalooza next weekend.

On the to do list for this week before Miatapalooza is
-windshield
-finish installing tombstone/console
-change oil
-adjust coilovers
-alignment

 

lol indeed.

That is a fine looking machine. Noticeably absent: dyno run video and/or audio.

Can you explain why you routed the heater lines to a tank vs just a bypass hose?

 

I ran the heater lines to the tank because it's my understanding that they should be looped and not blocked off.. and also I needed a way to fill coolant from the highest point. Since my radiator is under the core support I had a chance to add a little eye candy and have that tank fabricated. Also my steam vent goes there. On a stock truck with a 5.3L the hose that goes to the expansion tank is a T off of one of the heater hoses so this nearly replicates that.

As for the video here it is.

 

Do you happen to have any pictures of the trimming required on the bumper?

 

Nice!

 

I don't, but I'll get one for you. Basically the bracket that bolts to the top of the radiator support needed to be cut out where the intake is

 

Thanks. I don't care to use that intake if the bumper has to be compromised.
Also, what does it take to access the air filter? Can you unbolt the intake and pull it out thru the opening or do you have to remove the front fascia?

 

I wouldn't say it's compromised at all. The bumper has 6 bolts across the top still and all the other fasteners on the sides. Still very solid.