Casey

The build started so I guess it's time to start a thread. I'm going to be deconstructing the rot box 1990 Monster I built with Martin's kit in 2010 and moving all the good parts to a much nicer Miata: a super clean 1993. I built the first car when I was in school with a very limited budget so I ended up cutting a lot of corners. I've driven the car every summer since and truly have all the bugs worked out except for the fact that the body is a POS.

Pics of the rot box:





Pics of the new donor:





And a progress shot:



Almost the entire interior from my 1990 will be swapped over as it was all replaced with nice parts. The top in the '93 was trash so that's gone as well.

I also installed V8R frame rails that I will use with Martin's transmission cross member.

I do have a question for the group: ideally I would like to drop the engine, transmission, and front subframe as one unit and slide it over to the new car. Has anyone done this before?

mrmustang

I have, you need to make a rolling cradle for the transmission so that you can move the entire assembly as a unit without it dragging on the ground. Also suggest a plug for the back of the transmission so that you do not have a steady stream of fluid leaking out the back..

Also, you may need to notch the V8 frame rails for Martins transmission mount.



Bill S.

Casey

Awesome. Thanks. I'm assuming you were able to keep both headers on as well? Did you use a lift to take the body off the subframe?

I was able to get the crossmember over Flyin Miata's frame rails on the last build. I just didn't like that one of the crossmember bolts did not go through the rail cover, hence using V8R's solid covers.

mrmustang

As long as you take the steering shaft off both cars, you should not have an issue. I had an I-beam and chain hoist to lift the body off the subframe/engine/transmission assembly. Made a small rolling jig (HD solid rubber 8" wheels and 2X4/4X4 bolted together) to get the old body out of the way (engine hoist to get it off the jig once out of the way) and the new body in place, then reversed the process.

Bill S.

Casey

Do you mean remove the steering shaft from the steering wheel side or just decouple the shaft from the rack by the driver's side header?

MX-Brad

You'll have to pull the column out of the cars(steering wheel side) completely if you want to install with headers bolted on. It's no big deal. Especially considering you have most of the interior out already.
Caveat: I didn't do it that, jusy offering up the advise as I researched it A LOT before starting my build.

Gunpilot

I did the same thing on my rebuild. I did not like the old body and transfered everything over to my old SPEC Miata.

Casey

Fantastic. Thanks for sharing everyone.

v8miatanet

Man what is it with apps getting worse?
Here is my photos from photobucket one at a freaking time....

Casey

These photos are very helpful. Thank you.

Did you also use a hoist to lift the body off of the subframe? Does anyone have an idea of how much weight the front half of the chassis is without an engine or subframe bolted on?

MRM331

V8MiataNet, that exhaust work is awesome! I assume you did it yourself (sorry to thread hack).

Casey, I've done this as well. The rear is a piece of cake, 6 bolts and slide it over to the new car. The front's a bit more trouble but nearly as easy.

The biggest trouble you're going to find is resisting the call of "while I'm in here"...

Good luck,
-Jason

Casey

Here's a big update. I've been off work since Wednesday in an attempt to go from two driving cars to two rollers (with the v8 swapped) within a week and a half. At the same time, I'm not cutting any corners on this car. If it takes longer then so be it (but I think I can get there).

Dropping the engine from the bottom on to a cart was a piece of cake. At this point the engine is ready to go in and I just have a few things left to do to the chassis before I can make that happen. I'm planning to have it in the new car by the end of the day tomorrow.

Casey

The engine went in last night. I made K member spacers out of 1/4" steel plate. I did not use spacers on the last car (nor did I mill the Explorer intake) and it just barely touched the hood. Even though I'm using a Simpson cowl hood this time around, I can definitely use the body lift for my tires in the front.

Rabitz

...wow...

Casey

I got the car started Friday night. It fired right up the first time I turned the key making me two for two on engine swaps (although this one was a bit easier). I neglected to take a picture of the complete engine but I do have a couple of the rear sub frame. The sub frame from the old car was a rusty mess so I swapped everything over to the sub frame from the new car. A friend who is a professional welder took care of the torque plate for me and I also had him weld some square stock across the lower control arms to try to minimize any flexing and wheel hop.



Now I'm back home, 2.5 hours away from the car, for the work week. Hopefully I'll have everything done within one or two weekends. Then I need to get a new front bumper cover and have it and the hood painted. With any luck, I should be driving it in early August.

MX-Brad

Looks good. You'll be able to do the next one in your sleep.

Casey

Thanks. The goal with this car is that there will never be a 'next one'.

Casey

I made some more progress this weekend. The car is on the ground and I was able to drive it down the street. The only big items left are to install the exhaust that I just painted, install the convertible top, and repair, install the front bumper, and install the rest of the interior. I'm thinking in one more weekend I'll be pretty much done.

Also, I used the Audi CV boots on the outboard CVs. There is more than enough clearance to the shock body. Hopefully they hold up.

Casey

With the exception of a few small loose ends, replacing my axles (see here: https://www.v8miata.net/v8-miata-dri...xle-nuts-2467/), and paint, the car is done.

Home Depot lower shift boot:



Painted the exhaust and wrap the sections by the inboard CVs:





Hood, front bumper, and front spoiler need to be painted:

Casey

I got the car back from the body shop this weekend and put about 300 miles on it, including a trip to New Jersey. I wasn't really sure how it was going to look with the Simpson hood and the painted R package lip but I'm very happy with it.

MX-Brad

Looks really good. Lke to see more pics, especially side shots.

Casey

Thanks. I'm traveling a lot the next couple weeks but I'll try to get some more pictures soon.

Casey

Here's a few more pictures including the hood at different angles and the interior.

Casey

I now have over 1,100 miles on the conversion without issues. I finished the car, had it painted, then drove from MA to CT, CT to NJ and back, CT to VT and back, then back to MA. There hasn't been one issue. The second time around on these conversions is so much easier.

MX-Brad

Thanks for posting the pics. Looks good. Really nice total package there.