jrmotorsports55

jrmotorsports55

Right now I've about had enough of this car. Replaced the IAT sensor and added the fuel press gauge. Disconnected the battery to clear the ECU, let it sit for 30 mins, then hooked it back up and started it. No change in cold start issues. Just stalls out unless you hit the gas, and even at that, you have to chase it for a minute or two before it becomes slightly stable, then when it hits 100-120 deg water temp, it seems to level out and will run on it's own. I am not thinking it is just too much cam for the stock ECU and I will either have to live with it, or reprogram the ECU (trick flow stage 2 cam).

On to the new issue. I have noticed it seemed to be lightly smoking for a while now while running, but it was very faint and I was thinking it was just running a little rich (car has tiny cats, so it has always smelled pretty bad). Today, once it warmed up, and I was revving it some, the smoke started to get heavier, and has a bluish hue, and smells like oil. Worst I have seem it by far. When I built the engine, I used as set of used Trick Flows (allegedly only had a few thousand miles on them) and have a feeling the guides/seals were a little more worn than advertised. Going to pull the plugs and do a compression test to see what I find, but it sounds like the engine is coming back out. I still have the oil pan leak to fix, so at least that will make that easier to do vs dropping the front suspension out. I very well way change the cam down to something a little milder as well while it is out. A lot to think about and inspect before I pull it, but not very happy right now.

More to come....

AnthonyS

jrmotorsports55

Thanks. Yeah, I may just pull out the Ford EFI and go with a FiTech setup and be done with it. Not sure.

jrmotorsports55

Just found a FiTech 30003 setup with 62 lb injectors for $350 shipped brand new in box, snagged it. Could not pass up that price. I'll either use it or resell it. Thinking the 80s EFI needs to go. I can resell all the parts I have for the Ford EFI and probably pay for the FiTech, a manifold, and a ignition box.

AnthonyS

jrmotorsports55

Thanks, yeah, probably the best way to go in the long run. Will also make hood clearance easier.

ToySnakePMC

jrmotorsports55

Thanks, it took a lot of self control last weekend to keep from unloading a full mag of .45s in to the car. Still not sure if the Fitech will go in or not. Been researching all week, and I may have a few more tricks I can try to get the stock FI to run the stage 2 cam. I know it is common for low vacuum cams to cause idle issues with the Ford EFI, we'll see. I have to get the smoke/oil burn issue resolved first. Going to do some testing on it this weekend to see if I can narrow down the problem. If it comes to it I may try pull the heads with the engine in the car, really don't want to pull the engine out because that means taking out the radiator/fans/driveshaft/shifter/trans/bellhousing/clutch/flywheel just to be able to pull the engine out. I know I still have to do the pan gasket, but I'd almost rather deal with it in the car than remove everything that has to be removed to pull the block. Once the oil burn issue is resolved, then I will go back to the idle issue. I have the Fitech sitting on a shelf in my basement, so it's there if I need it.

jrmotorsports55

So, I am at a total loss. Wanted the run the car and see if I could isolate the smoking issue. Started the car, and there was a little blue smoke. Revved it a few times to get it to idle on it's own, and the smoke stopped. I ran it for 15 mins, got everything good and up to temp (oil to 200 deg), and no smoke. Revved it up pretty good, no smoke. It is now fine. I have no idea why last weekend it was burning smoke, and now it is not. The exhaust is back to smelling rich, not like burning oil which it did last weekend. I'm still planning on pulling the plugs and doing a compression test to check things out, but it seems to be OK. If that checks out fine, I'll just keep an eye on the next few times I run it, and if I still see any smoke, whether on start-up or running, pull the valve covers and check the valves our guide/seal wear. The bottom end was redone with new rings/bearings, but I did not touch the heads as they were supposed to be low mileage and looked great. We'll see.

jrmotorsports55

Decided to work on the hood trimming yesterday as I did not want to deal with the engine yet. Got it trimmed and it now closes. I still have to use some clay to check for the tight spots, but it's a step in the right direction. I have a vent kit for it as well, but did not want to start cutting it for that install yet.

jrmotorsports55

So, I pulled the plugs and did the compression test today. Good news is that 6 of 8 were at 165, and the other 2 were 170 and 160, all where they should be for the trick flow heads on stock pistons. The bad news is that 6 of the 8 plugs had evidence of oil burn on them, only cylinders 3 and 7 looked clean. 4 looked the worst with 5 being the second worst. The other 4 looked about the same, minor signs of oil burn. So, first I'm going to look into the intake/PCV system, as I did make a few changes for clearance. Then it will be pulling the valve covers for inspection of the seals and guides. Looks like the heads will likely be coming out at some point. For now, I'm going to keep on with trying to complete the swap so that is at least done and the car will be ready to drive.

jrmotorsports55

So, I have been researching oil burn in the 5.0s, and have found a lot of info on common issues with the PCV, especially in situations with the Cobra/Explorer intake install as well as removing the baffle on the pass valve cover for roller rocker clearance (I have done both). It makes sense that it would be a PCV issue/oil pooling in the intake manifold, as before this issue the car had never been driven and only sat in one spot for the last 4 years, and just run while stationary. I've never had oil burn smoke/smell, just slight rich smoke from the car running rich. About a month ago a moved the car out of my garage to back it in to the driveway and wash the 4 years of dust off, then quickly pulled it back in and turned it off, neither time running it long, just the in and out. It was the next time that I ran it that I had the oil smoke and smell of oil burning. I ran it once more a week later, and other then a little blue smoke on initial startup, it ran clean. My thought is that there could have been oil pooled in the intake manifold, from all of the times running it while sitting stationary, then when I moved it, that oil moved and started running down the ports in to the intake valves/cylinders. Seems legit to me based on no prior smoke and the situation. Yesterday I put a 1/8" restrictor in the fresh air hose from the throttle body to the valve cover, as from what I have read, this can help keep the PCV valve from pumping too much oil mist in to the manifold as it lessens the airflow without allowing too much pressure/vacuum to build inside the engine. I still have to pull out the PCV valve and make sure the screen and PCV are all in good order (pretty sure I did when I put the engine together, but that was a few years ago, better to be safe than sorry). I will probably put a catch can in the system as well and see what happens. Seems legit to me. Any thoughts/opinions?

jrmotorsports55

Quick update, pulled my PCV out, and there is no screen in there. Did a little reading up on the Explorer intakes, and there are two baffle designs. I remember that mine is the one with the revised baffle, so the normally do not run with a screen as the baffle should do the job. I am probably going to go ahead and pick up a screen and see if I can install it as well because it should not hurt anything and I want to see if I can eliminate this oil burn issue. More to come.

jrmotorsports55

Quick update, ordered and installed the oil baffle screen. Hoping the oil burn issue should now be addressed. Also used modeling clay to check hood clearance when closed. Appears my tightest spot is the TPS sensor, and I have roughly 3/16" so I am thinking I should be OK. All other areas had over 1/4" clearance. Next is to calibrate the tach, then take around the block for the first time. More to come.

jrmotorsports55

jrmotorsports55

Pulled codes last night, got 67, 29, and 33. Can only do KOEO test due to the 67, so I'm going to try to get those 3 resolved (hook up clutch switch, vacuum lines to EGR, and hook up VSS). After that I'll see if I can pull the KOER codes and do a balance test with my scan tool to see if I can get this thing running right. Also have an exhaust leak I need to figure out (either headers at heads, or collector flanges), and am going to need to resolve the oil pan leaking at both front and rear humps when it heats up and has been running for a while. Also need to reseal the power steering pump as I have noticed that has started to drip a bit when running for a while from the back cover area. More to come.

jrmotorsports55

Got some time in the garage yesterday. I plumbed the vacuum lines for the EVR and EGR, so that should take care of code 33. I pulled out the ECU from under the carpet and jumped pin 30 to pin 46 per Martin's guide, that took care of code 67 (I thought about trying to hook up an actual clutch switch or neutral sensor, but both switches on the OEM pedal are in use for starting and cruise, and I have an early transmission that does not have a neutral switch in the case). I also located the wires for the VSS and started that wiring job. I should get the pigtail this week, but am travelling for work the next few weeks and probably won't finish that until labor day weekend.

ToySnakePMC

jrmotorsports55

jrmotorsports55

Quick update, wired up the VSS sensor, so that is now resolved. Pulled the KOER codes, and came up with 41 and 91 - both banks lean. Good news is that from what I can tell, it could just be my O2 ground wire for the O2 harness, as I just grounded it to the firewall. I'm going to move the ground to the block, and check some of the other wires for the O2s, and see if I can take care of the codes. The sensors are brand new Ford parts, so they should not be the problem. More to come.

jrmotorsports55

Quick update, relocating ground to engine did not fix it. Now time to test wires.

jrmotorsports55

Ford5.0

I could be wrong, but I think those lean codes mean the computer is adjusting to full lean, which means the engine is running rich.

jrmotorsports55