New project: 1996 Miata with Ford 5.0
#101
V8 Miata Fanatic
Thread Starter
Slight update. Was shopping for parts yesterday, and ordered rings and cam bearings. When looking at cost of main and rod bearings, and taking a better look at my crank, I decided to order a crank kit with all new bearings. Also ordered ARP head bolts to replace the factory TTY bolts.
Time to start cleaning the block up.
Time to start cleaning the block up.
#102
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Thread Starter
Quick update, block has been cleaned and painted. Bores have been honed. Old cam bearings out. Need to pop the new ones, in, then start assembly. Ordered all gaskets/misc items needed for build yesterday.
#103
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Thread Starter
Started installing new cam bearing, boogered one up and had to order a new set. Went through the engine bay and wrapped fuel/brake lines with heat tape. Also got drivers header installed in place.
More to come.
More to come.
#105
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Thread Starter
Cam bearings, cam, and crank installed yesterday. Hoping to start on the pistons today if time allows (still have to clean them all up and gap the new rings).
Slowly, but surely.
Slowly, but surely.
#107
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Thread Starter
So, haven't posted in a while as I've been busy the last few weekends and not much has happened. Yesterday I finished getting the pistons installed as well as the oil pump and pick-up. Tried fitting the oil pan and it's hitting the pump (Melling high-flow). Looks like the pumps coming off for some clearance work. Maybe today, we'll see.
#108
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Thread Starter
Quick update, as things are moving slowly. Got the oil pump clearanced, and the oil pan had been installed. Cleaned and installed the lifters and hold downs.
Also went under the hood as I noticed the heat reflective tape that I installed on the lines was peeling some. Went through and added a bunch of zip ties to keep it in place. Then noticed that my left front brake line is leaking. Looks like I nicked it when I was doing some cutting in the engine bay. New hard line had been ordered.
Next up is temp install of a head and checking valve clearance before final install of the heads and pushrods/rockers. Need to get the lower intake machined down, then will have to modify the upper and valve cover for clearance (using motorsport valve covers that sit higher then the stockers, so some relief work will need to be done.
Good times!
Also went under the hood as I noticed the heat reflective tape that I installed on the lines was peeling some. Went through and added a bunch of zip ties to keep it in place. Then noticed that my left front brake line is leaking. Looks like I nicked it when I was doing some cutting in the engine bay. New hard line had been ordered.
Next up is temp install of a head and checking valve clearance before final install of the heads and pushrods/rockers. Need to get the lower intake machined down, then will have to modify the upper and valve cover for clearance (using motorsport valve covers that sit higher then the stockers, so some relief work will need to be done.
Good times!
#109
V8 Miata Zealot
Be sure to install a larger volume oil pan with that high volume pump. If not, you will suck it dry at higher rpm's. A standard volume pump will work just fine & gain you about 10 HP.
#110
V8 Miata Fanatic
Thread Starter
From what I have found, that is a myth regarding sucking the pan dry. See this tech article: http://www.mellingselectperformance....lume-pumps.pdf
I'd rather have higher flow up high to be safe and give up a few HP. It's a Melling unit, and many people have used them with stock pans, no problem. Ford uses HV pumps in all crate engines.
If there is something that I am missing, please let me know.
I'd rather have higher flow up high to be safe and give up a few HP. It's a Melling unit, and many people have used them with stock pans, no problem. Ford uses HV pumps in all crate engines.
If there is something that I am missing, please let me know.
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jrmotorsports55 (06-10-2015)
#113
V8 Miata Participant
#114
V8 Miata Habitué
High Flow Oil Pump
Have a high flow melling in my 331 powered Drag Race 79 mustang. Motor is an 88 roller block stroked .25" SCAT crank and stockish pan, ( I added 6 rows of 3/4" tubing at bottom of sump to allow air to flow through), so 6 quarts total. She sees 8500 RPM regularly with a 300HP hit of giggle juice. The 11ish seconds it takes to get down the track has yet to run my pan dry, oil pressure healthy 90 PSI for 4 years now and 100's of passes down the track. Even put street slicks on and run her a cruise nights, never a problem.
Dean0
Dean0
#115
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Thread Starter
Quick update since it's been a while. Have not done much, weekends have been busy. Yesterday I swapped oil pumps and will now be running a Melling stock replacement pump. Also installed a new dampener and the main pulley. Replaced the brake line that had a nick in it and wrapped the new one in heat tape.
Took my lower Explorer manifold to have .25" machined off the top. Picking that up today.
Next will be to install a head and check for P2V clearance with my TF Stg 2 cam. From what I have read there should be just enough clearance with the stock slugs, so fingers crossed.
Took my lower Explorer manifold to have .25" machined off the top. Picking that up today.
Next will be to install a head and check for P2V clearance with my TF Stg 2 cam. From what I have read there should be just enough clearance with the stock slugs, so fingers crossed.
#116
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Thread Starter
Performed P2V check over the weekend, over .100 on the exhaust and had .077 on the intake which is acceptable. Heads and valvetrain are on, just need to get rockers adjusted. Have Ford Racing valve covers, not sure if they will fit with the shaved explorer intake, that will be the next hurdle to cross.
#117
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Thread Starter
Engine assembly almost complete. Built my 1/4" k member spacers as well. Here is a pic of the engine as it sits. Hoping to get the spacers in today, then will come time to start the engine install after a few more finishing bits.
#118
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Thread Starter
The engine has landed!
Had just enough time to get it in the engine bay yesterday. It is just sitting on the mounts, and I need to do some more grinding on the PS rack mount to get it a bit lower before adjusting to final height. My tranny needs to be rebuilt, and is out of the case, so I might just install the flywheel/clutch/bellhousing, then bolt on the tranny cases to be able to get the final mounting points established (can also test fire the engine then).
Exciting times!
Had just enough time to get it in the engine bay yesterday. It is just sitting on the mounts, and I need to do some more grinding on the PS rack mount to get it a bit lower before adjusting to final height. My tranny needs to be rebuilt, and is out of the case, so I might just install the flywheel/clutch/bellhousing, then bolt on the tranny cases to be able to get the final mounting points established (can also test fire the engine then).
Exciting times!
#119
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Thread Starter
Had to pull the engine back out as the oil pan gasket was leaking at the timing cover (the pan had been on/off a few times with the swapping of the oil pump, so I guess that was the problem. Put in new felpro blue gasket. Also ground down the steering rack to get more clearance. Reinstalled engine, as well as bellhousing spacer and fidanza flywheel. Next will be the clutch and mounting the slave to the bell. Gonna install the bell and then the two tranny cases so I can get the engine location finalized and start plumbing it to get it fired up to make sure all is well.
#123
V8 Miata Fanatic
Thread Starter
Had the same clutch in my 96 GT back in the day and it gripped good and had soft pedal. Wanted light pedal due to known slave cylinder issues.
#124
V8 Miata Zealot
I used a RAM Clutch (puck style) in my 1970 SS396 Chevelle & had to take it out. That thing was horrible in a street car. It would bend the clutch linkage & raise the body off of the frame when the pedal was pressed.