The BFM - 94 Miata, 87 5.0
 

The journey starts here https://www.v8miata.net/ford-v8-disc...-east-tn-2250/ but will continue in this thread unless engine specific. For those who care - bought not built. This is more of a transformation than a build.

94 Miata 230K miles

5.0 V8 from 87 Mustang
T-5 trans
Turbo 2 RX-7 limited slip rear end
Oreillys distributor, Ford racing plug wires, Motorcraft spark plugs, new injectors
New harmonic balancer
Melling high volume oil pump
K&N short intake
Hedman header - 89500 (passenger side)
BBK header facing forward (driver side)
Aftermarket M3 aluminum radiator
Short throw shifter
Modified miata subframe, diy trans crossmember and diff supports, framerails
Wilwood 3/4" clutch master cylinder, stainless clutch line
2002 ford explorer v6 power steering pump mounted on what appears to be a modified mustang A/C compressor bracket

Autopower Spec Miata Roll Cage
Bilstien coilovers (Eibach Springs with KYB red adjustables are for sale.. maybe)
Flyin Miata front sway bar
custom sway bar mounts (1/4" steel box tube)

fake bride seats with universal brackets on stock sliders
RJS 5 pt harnesses
Autometer Tach, Sunpro water temp, volts, oil pressure gauges
DIY lexan door cards w/ carbon fiber vinyl wrap
NRG steering wheel
Momo hub adapter

F1R F05 15x8 et0 wheels
Dunlop DZ102 205/50r15 tires

Not installed yet:
Autokonexion fender flares
Wheel spacers
GT40p upper & lower intake manifolds from Ford Explorer

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1448421684

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1448421684

Currently working on header clearance

driver side: removed steering shaft, collector hits bellhousing & subframe
passenger: removed starter, collector hits motor mount bracket, subframe, and maybe starter

not much left to cut away on the passenger side subframe.

These are 89500 from Hedman. Will have to buy Speedway 9300201 block huggers for driver side.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1448332952

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1448332952

Driver side

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1445718406

Did these door cards a while ago

Traced and cut out 1/8" lexan with a jigsaw. Ebay carbon fiber wrap (shiny but has orange peel reflection, would recommend 3M). 3/8" bolts thread into the pop out holes. Bolts from Home Depot and finishing washers from Ebay. About $75 in materials but I got the lexan free.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1436643610

Current exhaust and... metal stuff

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1448422180

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1448422180

Updates
Cut the exhaust out & bolted in passenger header.
F1R F05 Wheels - 15x8 et0
Tires - Dunlop DZ something 205/50 15
NRG wheel
Momo hub adapter from parts car
Bilstien coilovers from parts car

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1450638805

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1450638805

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1450638805

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1450638805

Coilovers feel nice, they could be stiffer but if that's a problem I might just swap springs. They are pretty balanced as is - performance & comfort. That said I'm used to rock hard feel every bump compress spinal disc suspension.
*coilovers are pretty bouncy. Guess they need revalved after all.

Fuel pump went out I think. Was driving along and it puttered out. Just filled up with gas too. Doesn't whine when I turn the key on. Might do turbo or supercharger in the future so it will need a sizable pump. Not sure what fits.

Walbro 225 or any model Walbro depending on how much fuel you need.

Thanks man I've got one ordered. Also need a new fuel tank because this one is dirty and rusty beyond repair.

I managed to get most of the dirt out of fuel tank after it clogged my injectors. I figured the new fuel pick up sock and fuel filter would take care of the rest. Turns out the pick up sock only blocks a certain amount of dirt - what got through killed the pump.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1451531426

Got an alignment after the coilover swap. Not perfect but much better. Now I can decrease camber by raising the coilovers if needed.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1451531517

Got the old dash out. Converting to black NB dash and black carpet because I don't like the tan stuff.

Here's a link for dash swap info
Ultimate NA -> NB interior conversion thread - Miata Turbo Forum -Boost cars, acquire cats.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1451531764

Cleaned carpet and sprayed black with 3 cans of Duplicolor Vinyl & Fabric Paint. flat black. Came out better than expected so I put carpet back in.
Dupli-Color HVP106 - Vinyl & Fabric Paint | O'Reilly Auto Parts

Now in the middle of bothersome fuel tank swap. Dropping the subframe was easier than i thought it would be. Just remember to undo ABS line brackets and brake hardline on passenger side. And wire bracket on passenger side. With the tank drained its ready to be pulled... really not looking forward to this.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1451965740

I have been in the alignment business since 1983 & have aligned thousands of cars & trucks. Is that as close as they could get it, or did the alignment guy not know what he was doing? Those toe & camber numbers are going to destroy your front tires. Your rear camber is going to be way out of wack under acceleration with only about half of the tire's width contacting the pavement.

ALWAYS set your ride height before you align it.
If you are planning on using this as a street car & would like for the tires to last (at least the front ones, this is a v8 Miata) set the camber & toe to 0 on the front & rear, & the front caster as far positive as it will go while keeping it even from side to side.

I just saw the picture of the rear sub-frame removed from the car. That is going to alter your alignment as well.

Thanks for the info tbone. That is as good as he could get it. I think the only way to get less camber is raise the ride height. Very good to have the lifetime alignment from Firestone!

He didn't change caster for some reason. However the toe is within spec.

When I was in high school, I worked at Firestone. I got to do all of the "lifetime" alignments. They consisted of me driving the car around the block to see if the steering wheel was straight. If it was, it got parked. If it was not, they would sell them some front end parts. Total true story. :doh:

Didn't know it was that bad lol. Don't trust them, never will.

Painted carpet black with 3 cans of Duplicolor fabric paint. Looks nice. Wears down to old color under feet but floor mat will take care that.

After all the tank and pump replacing turns out it was the starter wire harness. Was resting against cylinder head and melted.

Oh look 100 posts. Time to go for a drive if the POS will start :D

NB Dash

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1454024472

fake Bride seats

http://i87.photobucket.com/albums/k1...pskhavwwhd.jpg

Seeing as I have a complete air conditioning set up from the parts car, I hope to install it compressor and all.

Apparently you just need a 94-95 Mustang smog pump & alternator bracket.

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=155438


Crap. 1987 5.0 water pump and crank pulleys will not line up with this bracket.

Quite the top notch fab work under there! Very nice build!

Did you accidentally post in the wrong thread?

New rear brake pads ebc green stuff

Old rear pads were cracked and breaking apart. Never drive without pads unless you remove the caliper. Otherwise it will over extend the piston into the disc, tearing it out of its cylinder and warping said cylinder. Even after you struggle for hours with the evil dust boot it will still leak break fluid.

Also, do not remove the caliper bracket bolts and attempt to hammer the caliper and pads off the disc. You will probably miss and damage a wheel stud. There is a specific adjuster screw (4mm allen) on back of caliper to loosen it. Then you just unscrew the bottom slider bolt, rotate caliper up, and slide it off. No need to touch bracket bolts. After replacing pads and caliper, tighten rear adjuster screw. Learn from my mistakes.

Anyway, ebc pads come with shims. They are black on one side and tan on the other. Not totally sure if this is correct orientation but I put tan side against pad.

*i think you're supposed to remove the tan, it's a cover for the adhesive so the shim can stick to the pad.

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1458940769

While fiddling with the brakes I noticed my bilstien coilovers had about 1.5" gap between the bottom of the spring and the seat at full droop. Essentially negative preload if there is such a thing.

I raised the coil adjuster rings until the spring was tight. This gives it a bit of muscle car rake lol.

When you buy coilovers make sure height and preload are separately adjustable. I know ISC and Ohlins are. This means the lower shock body is threaded with a lock ring so you can set ride height without affecting preload. Fully remove lower shock body and measure the threads so you leave at least 1-2" threaded.

How to eliminate / minimize oil starvation.

Oil pan baffle or windage tray?
I searched Google and stangnet, didn't find any oil pan baffles.
Is the stock pan baffled enough to keep oil out of the crank and cylinders? Even if you're in a high G turn and hit a bump?

*they're called windage trays. Readily available.

Also I have a high volume oil pump... so I need to run more oil = an oil cooler for extra capacity.

Since I already have the full a/c setup from the parts car, I think I can mount the compressor on a plate and attach it to the alternator bracket:

https://www.v8miata.net/attachment.p...ine=1460138061