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-   -   302 94' Miata Build (https://www.v8miata.net/ford-v8-miata-build-threads-52/302-94-miata-build-2884/)

Castillo817 06-09-2016 02:16 PM

302 94' Miata Build
 
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I don't really make threads on forums, but I just wanted to make one here just so y'all can see another v8 Miata build. I have started this build back in early April. I'm still gathering parts for my project and I am modifying my own subframe and also many other parts. Going to have Martin broach my hubs and for him to send me his axles and the hydraulics kit. I sent Jason my harness so he's doing most of the wring for me (I deeply hate wiring stuff).
Going to pick up a 8.8 dif from a T-bird SC tomorrow, a hurst shifter, and a Moates quarterhorse tuner chip. Along with a free 302 short block.
Don't have much pictures, but are some. As you can see I'm not done with the subframe as I still need to make some mounts and weld so much more. The 302 I have has a e303 cam, GT40P heads, cobra intake, 65mm TB, 88mm MAF, 30# injectors (Overkill), and using some Patriot headers.
Picked a freshly rebuilt World Class T5 as well.
I will try to keep this thread updated as time goes!

MX-Brad 06-10-2016 08:56 AM

Yay another badass 5.0. Not sure what you're doing for exhaust, but keep in mind P heads won't work with Martins headers if you're going that route.
Looking forward to following along.
Cheers.

edit. wow i must have selective reading. I see you're using Patriot headers. Maybe the P heads will work with those.

Castillo817 06-10-2016 09:40 AM


Originally Posted by MX-Brad (Post 20656)
Yay another badass 5.0. Not sure what you're doing for exhaust, but keep in mind P heads won't work with Martins headers if you're going that route.
Looking forward to following along.
Cheers.

edit. wow i must have selective reading. I see you're using Patriot headers. Maybe the P heads will work with those.

Lol yea I'm using Patriot headers and they are meant to work with P heads. I've already tested them out and all clears out!

rowen210 06-18-2016 09:41 PM

Awesome. Your build sounds very similar to mine. I cant wait to see your progress. The ingredients of our cars are mostly the same and will be interesting to see the differences between our finished products. You look like you have things under control with your build but i have one word of advice. Use the SN95 belt setup! I wish i had. I really could have used the extra room.

Castillo817 06-18-2016 09:51 PM


Originally Posted by rowen210 (Post 20713)
Awesome. Your build sounds very similar to mine. I cant wait to see your progress. The ingredients of our cars are mostly the same and will be interesting to see the differences between our finished products. You look like you have things under control with your build but i have one word of advice. Use the SN95 belt setup! I wish i had. I really could have used the extra room.

I really should of thought about using the sn95 belt setup before buying a fox WP. Idk if I should really ditch that WP and use the sn95 belt setup. I will really keep that in mind!

MX-Brad 06-19-2016 09:39 AM

Whats a WP cost, like $80? Just sell it.
I used the sn95 front stuff and am glad for the room.

Castillo817 06-19-2016 01:16 PM


Originally Posted by MX-Brad (Post 20719)
Whats a WP cost, like $80? Just sell it.
I used the sn95 front stuff and am glad for the room.

Actually half of the for a Gates WP :laugh:
I'll start looking for a sn95 belt setup now.

Btw I'm a noob. What all would I need from the sn95? I can keep the ac compressor from a fox right? Just get the sn95 ac bracket, alt bracket, WP, and crank pulley? Harmonic balancer should be the same?

MX-Brad 06-19-2016 08:45 PM

That sounds right. What i did on my build to see what parts were common between a fox and an sn95 was to simply price out the parts for a 93 as well as a 95 GT. Summit and RockAuto were good sources for cross referencing that.
I didn't use PS or AC so someone else will have to speak up about that.

V8MiataMike 06-22-2016 08:38 AM

SN95 setup requires the front timing cover as the initial starting point. This is what actually allows the belt to be moved closer to the engine.

Then you need all the front accessories including the A/C compressor as it attaches differently. But it sure does provide more room. I have Ford Contour electric fan behind the radiator pulling tons of air which to me is a big advantage for cooling these things.

Castillo817 06-22-2016 01:32 PM

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I'll see if I really going to need them or not.

Engine is finally sitting. Still need to finish up some welding for the subframe.

Castillo817 07-08-2016 06:53 PM

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Modified a stock mustang crossmember to mount up my T5 up.
Is this supposed to be about the height of the shifter?

MX-Brad 07-08-2016 10:19 PM

That looks pretty close to the height of mine....yours is maybe a 1/2" or so higher. If possible you may want to build in some adjustment in case your pinion angle ends up being off. You probably already know this, but you want your tranny and rearend angles to be parallel.

Castillo817 07-08-2016 10:42 PM


Originally Posted by MX-Brad (Post 20839)
That looks pretty close to the height of mine....yours is maybe a 1/2" or so higher. If possible you may want to build in some adjustment in case your pinion angle ends up being off. You probably already know this, but you want your tranny and rearend angles to be parallel.

I will try to adjust it a tad lower. Thanks!

Castillo817 07-29-2016 01:07 PM

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Been a few weeks since last update. Haven't done much, but I did mount up my coil with a bracket I made. I also needed to lower the transmission an inch so modified the stock t5 mount.
I also relocated my fuel lines through the outside of the frame rail with some ss fuel lines and adapters.

rowen210 08-07-2016 05:36 PM

I also used a fox tranny crossmember on my built. It worked but the exhaust is very low and scrapes on everything due to the right side not having as much clearence. I will be fabing a new tranny crossmember so the exhaust will fit tighter. If you want to get your car down low then you might run into the same problem.

Castillo817 08-07-2016 07:47 PM


Originally Posted by rowen210 (Post 21245)
I also used a fox tranny crossmember on my built. It worked but the exhaust is very low and scrapes on everything due to the right side not having as much clearence. I will be fabing a new tranny crossmember so the exhaust will fit tighter. If you want to get your car down low then you might run into the same problem.

Do you have pics of your current setup? By right side, do you mean the passenger side? I'm not looking to go as low as I was before tearing her apart but I want lower than stock height.

Castillo817 08-27-2016 10:32 PM

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Made some progress on my build. I had the crank pulley modified. I also mounted up the miata ps pump. Got both belts with good tension. Also mounted up the slave cylinder and clutch.
Now I'm working on making some mounts for my 8.8. My harness should be here this week if not for sure next week. Hopefully I could start it up pretty soon!

Castillo817 11-01-2016 12:34 PM

:D

Castillo817 11-28-2016 08:47 PM

Any of yall know where exactly is the tachometer wire for a 94' Miata? I can't find it and I tried searching online, but no luck.

MX-Brad 11-28-2016 09:07 PM

It's the yellow with blue stripe coming off the Miata's 8 pin connector -passenger side engine bay.

Castillo817 11-28-2016 09:24 PM


Originally Posted by MX-Brad (Post 21873)
It's the yellow with blue stripe coming off the Miata's 8 pin connector -passenger side engine bay.

I was looking for a black with white wire lol
I'll give it a look tomorrow. Thanks!

Castillo817 11-29-2016 06:25 PM

No luck on finding that wire :( I think the yellow with blue is for the 90-93' Miatas only.

ToySnakePMC 12-02-2016 03:56 AM

Castillo - what a great start-up video! Just came across it today. This is going to be a wicked V8Roadster! 5.0's sound so sweet- nothing else equals it, in my opinion. Thanks for updating us. You'll soon find that tach wire, I'm sure!

portabull 12-02-2016 10:50 AM

lovely engine noises....

Ford5.0 12-04-2016 08:44 AM


Originally Posted by Castillo817 (Post 21872)
Any of yall know where exactly is the tachometer wire for a 94' Miata? I can't find it and I tried searching online, but no luck.

I have a '95. On mine, I think its the yellow/blue wire on the flat grey 4 pin plug on the passenger side that branches off of the main harness that also has the windshield washer and EGR plugs.

Castillo817 12-04-2016 11:38 AM


Originally Posted by Ford5.0 (Post 21904)
I have a '95. On mine, I think its the yellow/blue wire on the flat grey 4 pin plug on the passenger side that branches off of the main harness that also has the windshield washer and EGR plugs.

I'll try to find that wire once again today!

Castillo817 12-04-2016 05:54 PM

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Awe maaaan :(

Castillo817 12-17-2016 11:16 PM

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My exhaust for now

jrmotorsports55 12-18-2016 05:56 AM

Nice! Bet it's pretty throaty. I have tiny straight through mufflers on mine, it's pretty loud. Sounds mean though!

Castillo817 12-31-2016 06:46 PM

Well I'm going to remove my gt40p heads and sell them. Tired of dealing with the spark plug boot clearance. Saving money for TF aluminum heads.

jrmotorsports55 01-01-2017 05:39 AM

TF are great heads. I have those mixed with TF Stg 2 cam and 1.6 Scorpion rockers. Just enough clearance with stock pistons and sounds great. Should make good power too.

Castillo817 01-01-2017 01:29 PM


Originally Posted by jrmotorsports55 (Post 22103)
TF are great heads. I have those mixed with TF Stg 2 cam and 1.6 Scorpion rockers. Just enough clearance with stock pistons and sounds great. Should make good power too.

Nice! I'm just going to stick with my E cam for now. Which TF heads do you have?

jrmotorsports55 01-02-2017 05:44 AM

I have the plain jane ones (TFSSBF1, I think). They are older and I got them second hand off ebay.

Castillo817 02-19-2017 11:42 AM

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As it sits as of now. Tried to start her but didn't want to start. There is spark, fuel, and air. I'm thinking I over tightened the rocker arms and some were very loose.

jrmotorsports55 02-20-2017 05:27 AM

Check your distributor is not 180 off. It's a common/easy mistake.

Castillo817 02-20-2017 10:38 AM


Originally Posted by jrmotorsports55 (Post 22722)
Check your distributor is not 180 off. It's a common/easy mistake.

Yeah, it was off the first time, but then I restabbed it correctly and nothing.

MRM331 02-21-2017 07:32 AM

If you still haven't found that tach wire try pulling the gauge cluster and looking at the back. All the traces on the printed circuit are labeled with the gauge they run to. Find the tach one and trace to the plug that plugs into it. Tap it there is you like.

-Jason

Castillo817 03-26-2017 05:06 PM

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Is there a better connection for the ignition module wires to the dizzy? After doing some few runs around the block the wire keeps coming off. I don't like the individual wires.

tbone heller 03-27-2017 11:10 AM

If you bolt the module there, it won"t lose connection. That is where Ford engineers mounted MILLIONS of them.

Castillo817 03-27-2017 11:26 AM


Originally Posted by tbone heller (Post 23029)
If you bolt the module there, it won"t lose connection. That is where Ford engineers mounted MILLIONS of them.

Well, yeah, but I bought Jason's relocation kit and I would think it'll be more secure.

V8MiataMike 03-27-2017 06:59 PM

I would say to be sure your connectors are tight enough to "hold" onto the tabs they connect to and use a zip tie or two to ensure nothing is pulling on the wires...

MRM331 03-28-2017 07:46 AM


Originally Posted by Castillo817 (Post 23022)
Is there a better connection for the ignition module wires to the dizzy? After doing some few runs around the block the wire keeps coming off. I don't like the individual wires.

Make sure the male tabs of the jumper are in the corresponding female connectors and not just next to them. It is very easy to have them between the connector and the housing as opposed to in the connectors themselves.

The tabs have been crimped slightly to hold them in place.

Once its in place also make sure to connect the jumper to the distributor with one of the small zip ties in the kit. Use the open hole that originally attached the module. Doing this takes tension off those connectors.

-Jason

MRM331 03-28-2017 07:47 AM


Originally Posted by tbone heller (Post 23029)
If you bolt the module there, it won"t lose connection. That is where Ford engineers mounted MILLIONS of them.

It will also likely overheat eventually. I've sold 714 kits to date to fix the problem.

Castillo817 03-28-2017 08:47 AM


Originally Posted by MRM331 (Post 23038)
Make sure the male tabs of the jumper are in the corresponding female connectors and not just next to them. It is very easy to have them between the connector and the housing as opposed to in the connectors themselves.

The tabs have been crimped slightly to hold them in place.

Once its in place also make sure to connect the jumper to the distributor with one of the small zip ties in the kit. Use the open hole that originally attached the module. Doing this takes tension off those connectors.

-Jason

Awesome thanks! Now time to find that jumper lol

Castillo817 04-24-2017 11:20 AM

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With a 3/4 tank of gas and some tools in the back.
Not too bad.


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