MX-Brad

I plan on using the EGR, charcoal canister, and cats but not the smog pump or air tubes. Testing is not an issue but random roadside tests may be a future concern and I may have to add a smog pump back on at some point.
I bought the engine with no wiring or accessories or sensors/senders. Engine is set up as a '93 fox body but with SN95 front drive. I have added all "on engine" sensors and EGR. Will use Miata canister.
From what I can gather on some of the Mustang forums, I'll need:
-barometric sensor
- canister purge valve
- EGR regulator

wondering if I don't have the TAD and TAB if it will cause a MIL.

Also, If I don't have AC or Cruise, can I get away without the vacuum tee? Seems there would be enough sources of vacuum from the intake manifold for the brakes and FPR and the emission gear that I should be OK without it.

Someone check my work please.
Thanks,
Brad

tbone heller

Don't forget the VSS sensor. Before I had a custom tune done on mine, I had the TAB & TAD sensors wired up & hidden under the dash. I also installed a mini toggle switch (hidden in the glovebox) that can turn off the check engine light if needed.

MX-Brad

Yes, VSS is on my shopping list as well. Do you know if a don't have TAB and TAD sensors will it cause a CEL? Those sensors are a little pricey, but I'll get them if it makes the computer happy.

MRM331

They will only throw a code during a KOEO test. They will not throw a check engine light up.

Let me make your harness and I'll set everything up for you.

-Jason

MX-Brad

Thanks Jason,
I already ended up finding a harness. Will be in touch about the TFI relocation though...probably not for another couple months though.
Brad

MRM331

By "make your harness" I meant modify your donor harness for you so that it's configured in such a way that it easily drops in and does not throw any codes.

-Jason

MRM331

I'd also be happy to sell you a drive shaft. I've had one "in stock" for almost 4 months.

-Jason

MX-Brad

Well, I just have to finish up some wiring and plumbing and I'll be ready for first crank.
Right now I'm sorting through the vacuum system and I have a couple related questions.

Do I need to use a vacuum tree if I already have suitable sources for vacuum? ie does the vacuum tree have a check valve or anything that is needed for the vacuum destinations?

The reason I ask is because it looks like I may have enough sources coming directly off the upper IM. This is what I've figure so far:
IM to FPR
IM to Canister purge solenoid
IM to EGR solenoid > EGR solenoid to EGR valve
IM to PCV
IM to Brake booster (using stock Miata checkvalve)
I don't have A/C or smog pump (TAB TAD)

Also, on the EGR solenoid, does it matter which line goes to which fitting? There are 2 on it. One is from source and one goes to EGR valve.

Anything else I'm forgetting?
Thanks guys.
Brad

V8MiataMike

You should be fine with what you have. No need for the Mustang vacuum tree. I don't think it matters either which vac tube is where on the EGR solenoid.

Also, as Jason said, the TAB/TAB not being there will not throw a check engine light but it will show up when doing the key on engine off test. It may also show up in memory codes (not sure on that one). If you want TAB/TAD KOEO to go away, a resistor (75 ohm 3 watt I think - equal to the resistance of the TAB/TAD solenoid) on the driver wires will get rid of those too.

Mike

MX-Brad

Thanks Mike. I'm getting pumped. Hopefully it'll run. lol

.boB

The smog pump injects air into the exhaust system to help the cats work efficiently. The cats are a combustion chamber, and need oxygen. Without the extra air, the cats don't get hot enough, and tend to clog up.

MX-Brad

Yes, hi-flow cats are on the list when it's time.

Gabriel

Brad - how'd you make out with your emissions equipment?

I'm pulling my engine back out on mine due to firewall and oilpan modifications i've decided are necessary for clearance... I've decided to re-add the cylinder head cross over air tube at the same time... I want to setup the full smog emissions system...

the biggest problem i'm finding is sourcing all the individual smog pieces... looks like it will nickel and dime me to death! a quick price list looks like it will cost over 1000$ just for all the components!

each individual piece on ebay charges 40$ to ship to Canada!

MX-Brad

I ended up keeping EGR, evap canister, and will be running cats. I didn't install a smog pump. We don't have testing in my county but random roadside tests in the city could be a problem. If I get nabbed, I'll install the pump.
I get exhaust next week, as well as O2 sensors.
What oil pan issues do you have?

Gabriel

I'm not overly worried about passing e-test... it's the random roadside tests that scare me... They want the "original emissions euipment" installed... could be runing cleaner than it did when it was a new car you're still getting a fine if the old antiquated air pump isn't there... kind of silly... but ya... Ontario...

my oil pan was rubbing on the one corner... the spot where the k member goes through it, at the back the k member was rubbing on the corner of the oil pan... and the smog tube on the driver side cylinder head kept touching the firewall.. so, couldn't backup the engine, couldn't move it forwards... tried tilting it slightly side to side, forward back..... just couldn't find any way to make it work correctly...

MX-Brad

I've heard several people say the inspectors don't even care if the stuff works, just that it's there....hint hint.
Have you seen any roadside tests? I haven't around here, but I can't imagine they'd pull over a little Miata unless it's running open headers or other jack assery.
Mine goes out tomorrow for exhaust...hope it not "too" loud.
Got some miles on yours yet this year or does the oil pan issue have you grounded?

Gabriel

I've never seen any, but I've only heard of the horror stories... Thing is i don't even mind installing all this stuff, i just don't want to spend 1000$ for it all... I put Thrush Weldeds on mine, they're very close to flowmaster 40s, so it's loud, and there's absolutely no mistaking it is a v8... so I can't help but wonder if the smog police will have a hard on for me or not! specially with the wide tires, hood scoop, and 5.0 high performance badge on the side.. lol

I've had lots to sort out, so i haven't put any real mileage, just little 5 minute joy rides to show ppl the car once in a while... engine still not running correctly, floor gets too hot with the exhaust, haven't taken it for alignment yet, clutch isn't working correctly, all the wiring is just temporarily held with tie wraps... etc.. so, I've been scared to go too far with it...

and now over the weekend, i took all the exhaust off, transmission/ driveshaft / bell housing out.. pulled engine out, and dropped the K member lol... so she's completely ripped apart at the moment...

this will give me a chance to shield my fuel lines correctly, route the wiring correctly into the tunnel... a lot of this stuff i didn't realize needed to be done before i installed the engine originally..

charchri4

Wow Gabriel that's a lot of rework just to move a fuel line!

Gabriel

Not to move a fuel line.. To modify the firewall where the engine was rubbing, and modify the oil pan where it was rubbing on the k member, and replace the cylinder head airtube with a new one that hasn't been cut off and welded shut by the previous owner of the engine, so that i can add a smog pump should i decide to...

unfortunately these things could not be done with the engine in place... I'm not sure how everyone else has managed, but i was unable to remove the engine with the bell housing still in place, even after lowering the k-member, there's just not enough room in that engine bay..

shielding the fuel lines, fastening/routing the battery cable, rerouting and fastening the speedo cable are all just bonus of getting back in there...

MX-Brad

Well it'll go back together alot quicker the second time. I know there were several operations during this swap where I had to do the same job 2 and 3 times to get things where I wanted them. And I guess I won't know how successful I was until I get some miles on it. At least the major part of the build is done, but the devil is in the details, isn't it?

Gabriel

oh ya, I had the entire car ripped appart in 6 hours, i figure it might take me 7 or 8 to put it back together... so much much faster than the first time lol...

I'm sure yours will be great - there's always some sorting, but i got caught up on just "trying to get it done" last year, and that's not what this project was about... so I'm fixing whatever I didn't do right...

how did you manage your tunnel boot for the shifter by the way? I probably spent 5 hours fabricating cutting and modifying till I was fully content with it..

MX-Brad

Click my link and scroll to the bottom. I made a sheetmetal plate and used Martins boot with it. What did you do?

Gabriel

Cool! I had never seen your build blog - your build looks nice, the work looks very neat.

I ended up using a rubber roof vent flashing peice like we discussed in a previous post.. I'm using a hurst shifter and the base is exactly 3 inch, so i was able to take the whole shifter appart where the hole in the roof vent flashing slips over it, put the shifter back together.. then i made a steel track that curns the contour of the rubber and pinches it down to the body... it worked quite well... I'd take a picture but the trany's out right now lol...

MX-Brad

Neat. Take pics when you put it back together. I'd like to see that. Another option in case mine doesn't work out.

And I meant to ask- I presume you're running cats? That's one area I've heard they really check on those random roadsides.

MRM331

About smog pumps - their function was to inject clean air into a 1980's vintage converter to make it work better. In the last 30 years the technology that is used to make them up has improved dramatically to the point where the injection of air is no longer needed.

PA also has a "if it was there originally" clause in it's OBD1 testing, however the "originally" refers to the chassis, not the driveline. In that spirit, a 1990-1993 Miata ONLY had a cat, no EGR and no smog pumps. In a county where you have to do a 35mph sniffer test (Philly and Pittsburg metro areas) you can easily get a rebuilt 5.0 to smog cleaner than a 1.6 liter Miata with only cats and an EGR valve. In counties where the car is only subjected to a visual test as long as the cats are there (since a Miata originally had one) you pass.

-Jason