Remove engine to replace clutch?
 

Do you have to remove the engine to change the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel?

I have to rebuild my T5 (2nd gear syncro issues) and while the trans is out I want to take a good look at the clutch assembly. I don't want to remove the engine if I don't absolutely have to. I don't want the car laid up for that long.

Thanks!

Should not be a problem to leave the engine in.

I was able to easily install the block plate, flywheel, clutch, etc. with the engine installed.

Mike

Thanks Mike! That is the answer I was hoping for.

Steve, I'd say "maybe". If you have room between the engine and firewall to pull the bell housing bolts, no problem. If it's to tight you may be able to loosen the motor mounts and drop the tranny crossmember, causing the back of the engine to tilt down (in a controlled fashion) allowing access to any bolts that can't be removed otherwise.

When I needed to change the clutch on my car I pulled the engine and tranny as a unit. Used the opportunity to paint and detail the engine compartment along with a mild wire tuck. While I was at it a new set of AFR heads found a new home. It was more work but in the end it was worth the extra effort and time.

Good Luck, RR

Steve,

You should have no issues pulling the bellhousing, clutch assembly and flywheel with the engine still in the car. When Steve (the other Steve) and I installed the engine (from above) with only the flywheel installed, the rest we bolted in from underneath. Also, before you pull the transmission, you might want to change the transmission fluid (I know you have experience doing that :D ) and see if that stops the second gear from hanging up. Worked wonders for the T5 in my "rescue", did not have any issues after we changed out the fluid two weeks ago.


Bill S.

Bill,

Not only is 2nd gear crunching, sometimes it pops out of 2nd gear. It's done that since day 1. The gear oil that is in it (it was changed in December) is Pennzoil synchromesh. On top of that, 4th gear doesn't feel the same anymore. It doesn't feel like it is going all the way in.

I have to trace down the vibration in the engine which is why I want to get to the flywheel. Since I have to pull the trans to get to the flywheel, the trans is getting a rebuild. I need to verify the flywheel has the 50oz weight on it. If it isn't the clutch or harmonic balancer - I'm going to have to put in a new shortblock.

If the engine is indeed a 50oz engine, any other flywheel (28oz, 0oz) on that engine would be vibrating your teeth out. Some of these new auto parts store cheap replacement flywheels have caused vibrations due to lack of quality but the vibration would appear immediately after installing it.

If your harmonic balancer is a stock one with the rubber insulator, they are known for getting loose - rubber degrades - and a vibration starts. If it is a vibration that has showed up over time, it could certainly be the balancer going bad. Other than that, an ignition problem, fuel injector problem, bad cylinder, etc.

The vibration really isn't felt until you are over about 3000 rpms. It is very noticeable above that. I don't think it is ignition or injectors because you still feel it when you completely lift off the gas. At this point, the engine only has about 2500 miles on it. The harmonic balancer looks ok (rubber is visible and still flexible). It was off recently to replace a leaky water pump. I was planning on replacing it when it is down for the transmission / clutch job.